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Feanor

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Everything posted by Feanor

  1. Thanks for the input. For a while now I've been wanting to switch to a Weber Carb, so that will eventually happen. I'll hit it with some carb cleaner for now and see what happens.
  2. How come you don't upload the owner's manual to justgivemethedamnmanual.com It's the best website ever. Owner's Manuals for old cars that are only bought used should be public property anyways. I (and I'm sure so many other people) would really appreciate it if you did.
  3. Just curious. Who on here actually still has an owner's manual for their 2nd generation subaru (brats, wagons)?
  4. Thanks for the replies, I will try and troubleshoot it. The weird thing is though, that just last night it started idling really high. I adjusted the idle speed screw down again. Something is changing independent of the idle speed adjustment screw that is changing the idle speed. What could it be?
  5. So the other day my brat started idling super slow on me, like it was going to sleep on me. Sometimes it would idle slowly enough that it would quit. Before this started happening I had adjusted the idle speed so that it idled at a little below 1000 RPMs, but now it was idling around 200-300.. It's not overheating, but when it happened the engine was at normal operating temperature. I checked the oil and that is fine. I checked all the wires on the spark plugs and they were snug. I simply adjusted the idle speed screw so that it was back up to around 1000 RPMs, and it runs normally now, but at first (right after I adjusted it) the engine was hiccuping, or lapsing rather. What could be wrong with it? I fear that by simply adjusting the idle speed screw I'm only treating the symptom and not the cause of the problem.
  6. My lights were always terrible, so I got a new wiring harness putting relays closer to the headlights. I also got different headlights that were much higher quality. Daniel Stern helped me pick out the correct headlamps and built the harness as well. http://www.danielsternlighting.com There's the link. My car's an '83 and now my headlamps are brighter than cars twenty years newer than mine.
  7. I ended up taking the brackets (or spacers or whatever you want to call them) off. I broke about three bolt heads in the process though after having to cut part of the spacers first so I could fit a socket on the bolts instead trying to wrestle with star drivers. When I got the sockets on (after having soaked the bolts in PB Blaster and heating them up with a torch) the bolt heads twisted right off leaving the rest in the holes in the engine. So I decided to forego the spacers and ended up extending my exhaust pipe to meet directly with the engine.
  8. Thanks turbosubarubrat for setting my mind at ease regarding the spacers. Sadly, since I'm so new at all of this, I ended up doing a poor job with the exhaust so my pipe flange on one side doesn't fit snug and I have a worse exhaust leak than before I ever started any of this, ha ha.
  9. Oh, but wait, that's the gasket for the rear exhaust, I already have some of those. I'm talking about the gaskets for the front exhaust where the Y pipe connects to the outtake manifold on the engine. The bolt hole centers have to be 3" apart, not 3.5" and the opening about 2" only.
  10. So I'm in the process of revamping my exhaust. I've taken the ASV brackets off of the exhaust manifold, and I'm going to extend my Y-pipes up to the engine itself without the brackets. I took the old crusty gaskets out, and I'm buying new ones. But all of the gaskets that it seems I can order are just simple rings, whereas the ones that I took off were the shape of the pipe flanges on my Y-pipes. My engine is an EA81 on my '83 BRAT. What kind of gaskets do you guys have at this spot? Will the simple, circular ones work? My whole point of working on the exhaust in the first place was to keep it from leaking right at this spot, so I want something that will hold well.
  11. So, while trying to replace old worn gaskets between my exhaust pipe flanges and the outtake on my EA81 (1983 BRAT) everything went fine except for one post won't tighten all the way anymore. I cut out new gaskets on my own, but because of that one post that won't tighten, I don't have a good seal (the car's way loud now ha ha). Are the threads in this hole on the bracket or are they on the actual engine block? (do these holes even go all the way into the engine block and not just the bracket?) I need to know so that I can decide whether it's better to buy the brackets off of somebody or to just do a helicoil and rethread the hole. What do you guys think?
  12. I'm thinking of doing a lift on my Brat (1983, so it's an EA81) and have three questions: 1. Is there anyone that makes a 3" lift kit for EA81? 2. How close can you get the tire to the wheel wells before they will hit once the suspension is compressed? (I measured 15" from hub center to the bottom of the fender. Without doing a lift, if I ran 28" tires, would they hit the wheel wells ever? Would I have to go smaller than 28" tires? In other words, would 1" between the tires and the fenders be enough distance to keep from hitting?) 3. I heard from AKghandi in a different topic that, "On an ea81 you have to drop the subframe when you lift it. Otherwise your cv axles will explode." What's this mean/is it valid?
  13. I'm getting sick of the garbage aftermarket carpet that I bought a long time ago--it doesn't even fit because it isn't wide enough. So I want to just clean the heck out of my floor and coat with some sort of durable finish and then get rubber mats. With that said, I have two questions: What would be good to clean the floor with? (something strong enough to get the remnants of the old carpet with its adhesive and all) I don't want to coat it with just rhino liner type stuff on the inside, but I want something that is similar. I just don't want something that's so rough, something that will be easier to clean since it'll be on the interior. Is there something similar to bed liner that is smoother? (Or something that you guys know about that will suit my purposes better)
  14. My cabin's completely sealed. I think what you said first is what's happening. Air gets sucked in backwards through the windows due to negative air pressure because I tried opening the windows only half way when I was going pretty fast and I felt the airflow. The air was only coming in from the front of the car and there was zero exhaust smell. I think that it smells only when the air is getting sucked from the rear of the car.
  15. No, no rust holes, and my weather stripping is clean. Like I said, it's only when I open the windows.
  16. Replaced the rear-main seal. Turns out the EA81 has two rear-main seals, and my Brat only had one out of two. OUCH! Good thing it's taken care of now though. It doesn't leak a drop anymore. I got new wires for all of the spark plugs and the starter, so it doesn't ground early anymore. It was still doing weird things on my gauge and the lights were way dim. I had the alternator and the battery tested and they checked out fine. I had the electrical looked at again because it didn't stop being erratic, and the guy that looked at it found a few bad wires and fixed them. He also found out that my reverse lights were wired to my 4WD Low instead of the reverse switch in my transmission (they replaced that switch the same time they took the engine out, but the reverse lights didn't work still. That was because the silly mechanics wired it to the 4WD Low. So now my reverse lights finally worked. After this guy fixed these random electrical wires, my gauge showed normal and my lights weren't quite as dim, but only 2 days or so after he fixed it (electrical is weird). Then the gauge dipped again and hadn't been very strong, although the lights weren't nearly as dim as they were before. Well, the gauge didn't go back up until it got really cold, then it showed really strong. It's still off and on, and it seems like my gauge will be stronger if I have used more of the electrical functions lately (the lights and the defrost, etc.). Quite frankly, the electrical scares me because it never makes any sense. Now my rear running lights (the dimmer lights that get turned on at night) aren't showing even though my brake lights work. I hope it's just a bulb. However, the Brat runs fine, so I should be grateful. The paint on the tailgate, however, is cracking. Now I can see that the cracks run all the way through the body. Must have been a bad job of Bondo, mud, or just a failure to get rid of rust right? The whole tailgate is doing it all over, it's a mess. The body of the car is generally fine except for one or two paint bubbles and spots where welds come through the paint.
  17. Some of the ports that are plugged in my engine (and again I don't know if this would have any relevance to the exhaust smell) belong to the ASV system too. For pictures and discussions on this go to the Post titled "83 Brat EGR pics" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138867-83-brat-egr-pics/ or the Post titled "EA81, '83 BRAT, EGR? I need info fast!" http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138803-ea81-83-brat-egr-i-need-info-fast/.
  18. So I have a 1983 Brat that I have had a ton of work done on. It finally doesn't leak oil and it runs great. The EA81 in it only has a little over 150,000 miles on it, but all of the ports that have anything to do with the ERG system (or any other emissions control system) have been plugged with bolts and welded shut. The previous owner did all of that. I don't know if that has any relevance, but anytime the windows are down you can smell exhaust (at least I think it's exhaust) really really strongly. I can be going 70-80 mph on the freeway, but if the windows are down I can still smell exhaust. What could be causing this? Surely, although it is an old car, not all old cars smelled like this. Is there an exhaust leak somewhere between the outtake and the muffler?
  19. Thanks, that's what Subaru Customer service told me. For pics of my engine, I made a new post called "83 Brat EGR pics"
  20. Ok, I just realized that it didn't put my pictures in order, and it didn't post all seven of them. The one missing is of the mysterious port into the manifold right by the EGR valve..
  21. Here are the pics showing how my EGR/ASV system was plugged/modified, whatever you want to call it. First is a picture of the entire engine. Look below to where the exhaust would come out. There is a little pipe about the size of a quarter in diameter coming towards the camera, it's been cut and welded shut. The next picture is of the same pipe, just on the other side of the engine, the driver side. Same thing. I was told these pipes are part of the ASV system by someone on a forum here. My mechanic said EGR.. Wouldn't these pipes normally lead up to the EGR valve somehow so it can redirect exhaust to the intake? On the first pic, see the bolt directly above the pipe I'm talking about. What engine port is this. There is just a bolt instead whatever went here. A sensor perhaps? The third picture is a closer image of this same bolt/port. It is right by the passenger-side rear spark plug. The next (fourth) picture shows the EGR valve close up. As you can see, the (intake?) hose for the valve just has a bolt shoved in it. The fifth picture is just a view from a little farther away so you can see where the valve is.. The sixth pic is of the EGR valve, looking from the passenger side. This shows another engine port on the intake manifold where a bolt has just been shoved in. What is this port for?? The horrible part is that I don't know if these "bolts" can be easily removed. They look like they were welded in.. One last question, the last (seventh) pic shows the passenger side of the engine from the front view. There are tons of attachment points for bolts and what not on this side. What are they meant for?
  22. So I found out that one of my wires that went to a spark plug had been corroded, so it was shorting or something and melting the wire practically. I got a new wire on, so I think that the bad wire was sapping juice and that's why the car was doing so many weird things.
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