[FOUND! 1992 Loyale. OAKLAND Ca]

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Having a gps locator onboard was the saving grace.

So the cops didn't make use of this ?

[Loss of power after a major backfire EA82]

You should also run a vacuum test.  It's dirt simple to do and can tell you a lot about the engine performance.

[83 BRAT jerks and stalls after being driven a little while]

Definitely sounds like a fuel problem.  Since you've done the carb, filter and pump, looking further back at the tank seems to be a reasonable idea.  Check the manuals on how to resolve the strainer problem.  If that doesn't help then go back to the carb/injector issue.

[1992 Loyale in need of clutch]

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I am just wondering if it’s worth it.

I'm guessing it's probably under a $grand, so it's really just a question if you like the car or not.  We don't know your mechanical skills or budget.  Like any old car and most any used car, they're projects, some more than others.

 

[ea82 oil pump leak - suggestions for removal and replacement of seals]

Be careful when  torquing the bolts on re-installation.  Others have reported that the torque values in the Haynes manual are incorrect. Check another source or two for your yr/model.

 

I believe the rotor has a specific front/back orientation.  Make note of any markings for re-installation.

[82 Brat oil spraying up to the hood]

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The first thing I noticed when checking it out was a bunch of old oil residue starting from near the bottom of the engine spraying up past the alternator and on the bottom of the hood. 

This can also happen if the oil filter isn't installed correctly.

[Loyale CV Axle Rubbing on frame]

That axle has a length of "thickened" cross section.  It should be a uniform section thickness between the inner and outer boot.  The thicker section in combination with your lift has a compound effect of consuming needed  clearance .

Not sure how to compensate for both problems together.

[Loyale CV Axle Rubbing on frame]

maybe some photos would help

[Loyale CV Axle Rubbing on frame]

Is the lift in the rear, pushing the front end down ?

[ea82 spfi 1989 running poorly high idle / flooding sputering stumbling bogging]

are there any computer codes being displayed ?

[Need some advice on my Hatch]

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... not idling after warm up. Sometimes when driving, the car will die at a stop.

I vote for a carb problem....

[1984 EA81 Lifters]

Look into "How to keep your Subaru alive" http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/

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Worn out camshaft and/or lifters: You'll know the cam and lifters are wearing out if the gap between one or more of the valves and the adjuster is extremely loose at every valve adjustment. Eventually you'll run out of adjustment threads on the bolt and the valve will still be loose. If it's the lobe on the camshaft wearing out the valves opposite each other on the engine will both be loose. If it's just a lifter wearing out, only the valve operated by that lifter will be loose. Either way, you have to remove and disassemble the engine to repair it.

 

[84 brat EA81 valve tapping]

look into "How to keep your Subaru alive"

 

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Books--/

 

Chapter 7

 

 

[EA81 decreased oil pressure with increased rpm!]

Oil level OK?  oil filter OK ?  any oil leaks ?

[Loyale won’t run]

Did you reconnect the plug wires correctly ( the right order ) ?

['83 BRAT, Shorted battery when replacing ignition coil, now it won't start.]

Test the battery with a voltmeter to see if it's dead.  May need to recharge it.

[87 Brat brake pedal to the floor, except when hand brake engaged]

I had a similar problem.  Even though I found no problems in my brake system and bleeding did not help solve the problem, I got improvement by re-bleeding the master cylinder.  I did it while it was on the car.   

1. make sure the car is adjusted by lift so the MC is level, (important!)

2. crack open a brake line connection

3. depress pedal and hold it down

4. close the brake line connection

5. check fluid level in reservoir.

6. repeat for other brake line

7. check brake pedal response.

Repeat a few times if necessary.  If you have 4 line connections on the MC you only need to do the two side connections because air rises.

Also if your brake cylinders have the notches for turning them back in make sure the notches are aligned correctly to the brake pads.

 

 

 

[85 brat dies while driving, intermittent crank no start]

On 1/14/2019 at 8:55 PM, WhiskeyBravo said:

After a new more hopeful tried to start to no avail I let her sit for a few minutes and like magic she started right up and ran like nothing was ever wrong. This happened again about 5 minutes later. And several other times, while accelerating, decelerating and even just holding steady at 2k rpm then would just back to life.

A failing fuel pump can also produce this behavior.

[1985 Subaru Brat vibration at high speeds]

Raise the car up and see if there is any play in the wheels by rocking the 12 and 6 o'clock positions.  Movement or klunking sound will indicate worn bearings.

[85 brat dies while driving, intermittent crank no start]

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I have spark going into the disty but I got nothing at the plugs.

Is the rotor turning when you crank the engine ?

 

[Head Gaskets.]

I would definitely recommend doing the simple things first.  Pulling the engine essentially means a complete reseal is in order.  Along with several other things while the engine is out.

[Part]

Do you have a picture of what you are referring to ?

[Fogging Windshield]

I just had this problem a while back and found that a vacuum line had come loose in the engine compartment.  The line is in front of the passenger area under the hood.  Check around to make sure the lines are all connected.

[Intermittent no-spark problem, suggestions?]

Could be an intermittent fuel problem.  When the fuel pump starts to go out they run intermittently.  You can crank all day and it won't start.  Next time you try it'll turn over.

When the problem happens again, try rapping on the pump with a screwdriver handle.  If it gets you going you found the problem.  May take more than one try.

 

[Anyone ever replace an EA81 front crank seal?]

22 minutes ago, Newdesertfoxowner said:

Do I need to pull the oil pump to get to the crank seal? It didn't look like it. Are the oil pump seals a necessity as preventative maintenance? I'm new to these engines so anything you can tell me is appreciated.

The thing is, once you start taking things apart its silly to only replace one seal.  Might as well do all the front seals including the oil pump. 

Depending on the engine mileage and the last time it was resealed, you may want to remove the engine and reseal the whole thing.  It's much easier to do out of the vehicle than in.  And you won't have to come back and take everything apart again for the next small leak.

If one is leaking the rest are not far behind......