Dee2
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Posts posted by Dee2
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Could be as simple as a fuel filter problem...
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On 1/3/2021 at 2:11 PM, GLwagon1984 said:
I don't know about the distributor contacts and rotor. Could you tell me what/how to check there?
Take the distributor cap off. For each plug contact in the cap clean with very fine sandpaper or emery cloth, so there is no oxidation on the metal contacts. On the rotor, clean the metal contact also.
3 hours ago, GLwagon1984 said:...plugs were black and sooty
Carbon fouled
Black, dry soot on the electrodes and insulator tip indicates a carbon-fouled plug. This can be caused by a dirty air filter, excessive driving at low speeds, too rich of a fuel/air mixture or idling your vehicle for too long.
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There's a chart in this thread
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Quote
They burn up and drop down into the v so much they slip.
A burned belt will slip.
A new belt should be fitting down into the V. Sounds like you may be buying the wrong size of belt width.
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Many things could cause the problem you are experiencing....
Did you buy gas just before the problem started ?
When were the fuel filter(s) last changed ?
Have you checked the air filter ?
Try cleaning and sharpening the plugs before spending money on replacements.
Have you checked the distributor to make sure the contacts are clean and the rotor is in good condition ?
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After you finish the repairs, you can clear the codes and the light will go off until another problem is detected by the computer.
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let the key go to the run position.... and she dies....(cuts right out.)
This sounds more like an electrical problem than a fuel problem. If the fuel supply were cut off the engine would likely sputter for a while then die. Sudden death seems more likely to be electrical.
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A lot of folks replace their ignition with a push button.
I found this
There a re probably many more articles to help.
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I've had good results with Altrom products
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What's the name of the paint/dye stuff ?
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Check the easy stuff first.
--Was it running properly before the repairs ?
--Are the plug wires hooked up correctly ?
--Are the timing belts installed correctly ?
--What else was disassembled during the repairs ?
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Have you checked the fusible links ?
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You should fix the oil leak before you get a fire......
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You can also tell if the bearings are bad by simply checking for wheel movement. Raise the wheel off the ground a few inches. With your hands at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions rock the wheel by pushing and pulling. Any clunking or free play will mean the bearings are gone.
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By chance, did you buy fuel just before it stopped running ? It's rare but you may have gotten some bad gas. Or possibly gas with too high of an ethanol level ?
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1 hour ago, spamanon said:
My car looks just like this one, same color and everything. Is this considered a wagon or a hatchback?
Thanks.That's a wagon
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1 hour ago, spamanon said:
Ok, so I checked spark and that is good. I also tried to start it without the gas filter cover on, so I think it is getting air. The carb cleaner should have functioned as a fuel, according to others who replied, at least to catch a few times. This model has push rods, so there is no timing belt. Why would the compression suddenly be way off? I mean, it ran daily for 5 months with no problem and suddenly wouldn't start.
Something's not right, so you have to keep verifying until something is found....
Once it's found then we can figure out why....
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There are four things needed to fire an engine
-fuel
-spark
-air
-compression
Do compression check. If there is still no fire then your timing is way off. Check to make sure the plug wires are in the right order. Check the timing belts to make sure they haven't slipped.
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1 hour ago, SiriusBlack said:
@Step-a-toe It has no problem whatsoever revving in P or N, no hesitation or anything. It wanders at idle and dies once put into gear.
Have you checked your transmission fluid ?
May also be the vacuum advance is not working.
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42 minutes ago, SiriusBlack said:
I'll be sure to check that too. Also, it was suggested that I see if I can get the car to tell me what's wrong with the diagnostic codes. It doesn't have the ECS light on the dash lit up, but how do I get the ECU to spit out codes?
here's a link for reading codes. I'm not sure where the test connectors are located on your vehicle.
https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/
searching this website for ECU codes/connectors may bring up more specific info
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Since you are still probing for clues, I would do a fuel pressure check. The tank may have sludged up the feed line to the pump.
Also, when the engine is idling, I would stick a vacuum gage on it and see if you can learn anything.
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Maybe a fuel pressure problem (?)
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12 hours ago, Ionstorm66 said:
It's been to two shops. First one aligned it, then checked it after because of the pull. I then took it to a different shop and they checked the alignment. Everything is dead nuts other than one front camber off by 0.4, and there is no adjustment. Guy said that isn't nearly enough for that much pull. It pulls hard enough I can't even let go long enough to shift if I'm holding something.
if it's been to two shops and they agree there is a pull, they should be able to tell you why and give you an estimate for repairs.
If it's not the alignment, we can only guess at possible causes. It could be tires, brakes, accident damage or ?? Only an inspection can really solve this problem.
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who did the alignment ?
Isolating Front Engine Rotating Noise..Common Problems?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by Dee2
If it happens while driving, it could be the wheel bearings.
I used to get a "rubbing" sound from front end of my car and it was the wheel bearings.
Were the bearings redone recently ? If not maybe they're due.
If they were, sometimes they need to be re-torqued after driving for a while.
If it happens at idle, then it might be the idler bearings for the timing belts.