pwoens

Mine have never lit up in the two weeks that Ive owned the sub....until yesterday after replacing all of them. I didnt check the temp but will do next time I run it at night. Boy....its nice being able to see the controls at night....woohoo

I had a very similar experience with my 88 when I got it. Turned out to be a u-joint in the driveline was completely shot.

I had just the dots also....til I read the responses today, stopped by radio shack, spent 8 bucks and an hour of time......Now I have all sorts of dash lights. Its like Christmas inside the sub:banana: and you can see what buttons your pushing......THANKS A TON FOR THE INPUT. Even the hazard button lights up now....wooohooo

I never noticed this until lastnight.....but both of my subs do not light up in the heater & ac control area. The buttons have a little light that lights up but the whole panel is pitch black at night time. I checked the fuse panel and fuses are ok so since both cars have the same issue I figured they just simply didnt light this area up?? Im probably wrong but curious if anyone elses 96 outback or older has the same issue?? If it is suppose to light up, what should I check? Thanks

Since I got the 88 gl10t the voltage guage has always pulsed when the right blinker is active. One day several weeks back I topped off the gas tank and it caused the gas guage to shoot straight up and stay there for a lot longer then it should have. I notice now when the gas guage is actually down below full that it will bounce back up to the top when I activate the right blinker. Im assuming I have a short somewhere or a bad relay/switch somewhere???? Any input, experience, or ideas on where to start troubleshooting?? Thanks

Its a 96 outback 2.5 phase 1 with auto tranny. It appears to be leaking near or at the point where the tranny mounts to the engine. Im assuming this is that infamous plastic plate issue that I have read about? Any ideas?? If it is this plate, is it a big deal to leave it alone?? If I need to change it, do you drop the tranny or pull the motor??

only a few days left on my registration. Please send a private message including vin #'s and an email address if you want a carfax ran and emailed to you. Thanks

its the 2.5 auto

drove the new to us 96 obw 900 miles in 4 days and had zero issues. It turned over 160k on the trip and drove like a champ the whole time. I did notice a little vibration around 70 mph that didnt feel like a tire so maybe I got a u-joint going out or something??? not bad vibs but noticeable. subarus are awesome!!

Hey bro...yeah our Lord Jesus really answered our prayers. Kailee is on the road to recovery and with a little time she will be 100%. I checked on the sub we talked about and its gone....gave it away a few weeks back....sorry I couldnt score it for ya:banghead:

someone sent me an email requesting a carfax and I deleted the email thinking it was a private mail notice and that I could get the info from the pm in my inbox here on this site. So....whoever sent me an email wanting a carfax, please send the email again. SOrry...been in and out of the hospital with the newborn so im totally fried.......trying to catch up on things now.

what happens if you do a different order?? I was told by the mech in town to do LF (drivers front) first, then RR, RF, then LR??? It seems to be working fine but maybe I messed up something??? Anyone with a manual have the correct order or know what will happen if I bled them wrong??

Well...I did the gravity bleed yesterday and things seem aok!! I removed the reservoir lid, used a syringe to remove most of the fluid in the reservoir, and then hooked clear tubes to all bleeders and placed the tubes in gatorade bottles so I wouldnt make a mess on the garage floor. I then filled the reservoir back up with new fluid and opened all bleeders and let gravity take its affect. It took about 1.5 hours total until I saw clear fluid in all canisters. About every 5-10 minutes I had to add new brake fluid to the reservoir (used 1 canister total). After this was complete I bled the brakes just to be double cautious. No air came out of any of the bleeders and my fluid looks great now. I test drove the car and everything feels good. My wife drove it about 40 miles after the job and said everything felt just fine. So, it appears that everything went well. If by some chance, I missed something or did something wrong, please let me know as this is my wifes car and we have two little ones that ride in it all the time. Plus we are heading 300 miles tomorrow. But, I personally feel confident that all went well and we should have no problems. Im gonna test the ABS part later today.

Well...I did find something about gravity bleeding. Im gonna try this but if anyone has any input, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again

I did an hour worth of reading and searching this morning and never found an answer??? Im probably not searching correctly....so be patient with me. Does anyone have a writeup or link to a writeup on how to flush brake fluid on a 96 outback wagon? Also, I did read that with ABS you have to flush/purge the brake fluid with the ignition on. Is this true?

96 outback 2.5 auto 156k Here's what I plan on using: Castrol High Mileage and a Napa Gold Filter (im assuming napa gold is ok?) Here's what I need to know what to use: Auto Tranny fluid? And is a Napa kit (filter and gasket) ok to use, or do I have to use subi kit? Differential fluids? Trying to get ready for the first road trip since the purchase of the 96. Any other suggestions?? Thanks

Well, here's the outcome. I got the car for 4850.00 but had to pay an additional 600.00 to have a new water pump, timing belt, oil pump seals, o-ring and sling, and all cam seals. So I paid 5450.00 for a car with new pads, rotors, tires, timing belt and all seals behind timing cover. Not too bad in my opinion, especially given the excellent condition that the car is in. I may or may not have the HG issue down the road. If I do I will throw in a ccr 2.2 motor/intake and buy my wife a new car....that way I can have a better fishing rig and a 2.2 that will outlast every other part on the car. Now I need to sell the Honda.....anyone want to buy a 93 honda accord??

The spark knock or pinging or engine knock, from what I understand, is not harmful to the motor, just annoying??? Am I correct in the assumption or does it actually cause harm?? What is your opinion on this particular car?? thanks

Is this only true for the 96?? What happens if you use 89 octane??

thanks for the feedbacks. That one is colorado looks nice .... I am going to call him later today. This particular one was listed at 5600. We are down to 5100 to compensate for the worst case scenario that hopkins automotive quoted me of $500.00. Plus I can do all the work myself so we are really only talking 250.00 - 300.00 bucks in parts. I know its the dreaded 2.5 but that doesnt scare me cause there are so many out there and if it does go, I will put a 2.2 in the care from ccrengines. For the Pacific Northwest this is a good deal and the car itself is in the best condition I have seen a 96 in. im still gonna call Jon in Colorado but thats a tough one cause you cant tell anything about a car fro the pics alone Thanks again for the feedback....anyone else have an opinion...maybe someone from this area that has bought one or has looked around for one???

its the feared 2.5

just a simple yes or no....plllleeeeeaaase....thats all Im asking LOL

Well, I gave him 100 dollar check to hold it til monday. I have the car in my posession until then and the sale is pending the mechanic inspection monday morning. They estimated 500 bucks worst case scenario and quoted me $60.00 to pull the cover and find out what it is. That would put the car at 5600.00 total. The other cars we have looked at in this category have not come close to the "solidness" of this car (obviously minus the noise). It truly drives out like new. I had my mind set on a manual but all the manuals I drove felt less solid than this auto. And my wife is really wanting an auto (since its for her I thought I would entertain the idea). I guess I have an out if they find something beyond the $500. Thanks for the insight and opinion...I truly appreciate it!!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=192830#post192830 im looking at a 96 outback and know this is the "older" forum, but I trust you guys here and your opinions.

I am urgently begging for feedback here... Will trade a carfax check for good advice.... hahaha Im looking at a 1996 outback wagon with 158k on it. It is the cleanest and tightest outback I have driven so far. Its in Washington state obviously and has zero rust. Its an auto with pl, pm, pw, cc, ac, tilt, and cloth/velour interior. New pads and rotors, new toyo tires, and very clean in and out, without even detailing it. The only "notable" issue is noise from inside the timing cover and the sub specialist (hopkins automotive here in spokane) said it sounds like either a water pump or timing belt tensioner. Looking at 500 bucks worst case scenario with new timing belt, water pump, oil pump, and labor. The seller will not go less than $5100.00. nada says 5200 is high and 4400 is average. We all know that in the pnw we might as well throw that out the window as retail is ridicilous around here:banghead: . I have offered him 100 bucks to hold the car until monday when hopkins will tear the timing cover off and check it out ($60.00 bucks out of my own pocket). They did say they dont think its the main but it is a slight possibility. What does everyone else think?? Would you buy it or keep looking?? If I would have found this car at a dealer im certain it would be 6700 or more. Please advise me on what you think...pllllleeeeeeaaase.