LUVMYBRAT

I don't think they make 13" tires. But.... they make 12" ones that are 27" tall and one of the brand of 4 wheelers have a stud pattern that matches the subie, I think its suzuki. Sooo..., I personally saw a early 80's turbo coupe with this set up it looked wicked, I didn't get a chance to visit with him but it appeared like it go through mud,sand and snow with ease, I think rim strentgh could be an issue if you were to use on rocks or other hard terrain. but like I said it loo ked sweet, big mud tread lugs on all four corners!!

I could maybe do it. How far from Cheyenne Wy.?

my leak is a cracked pipe, the skid bar is bent so I'm assuming the last owner abused it and pushed up the skid plate into the pipe forcing it to crack. Talking about that pipe, does the heat shield need to be there, the crack is behind heat shield right after it connects to otherside of head. I know how to weld so I thought I'd weld it up after removing heat shield but was wondering if I need to reinstall the shield?

from someone who knows very little about turbos. Looking at my 84 t-coupe it would appear as if I need to pull motor just to remove exhaust, is this true? that or drop cross member? and I have a leak on the up pipe(the one from head to turbo right?)does this affect performance of turbo, I also seem to have light vacume leak on heater controls, will this affect turbo in any way (boost ect...I don't know). I need some answers please.

just for a moment I thought I might want to put a manual tranny in place of the auto in my kids 84 turbo coupe, besides the obvious (pedal assmbly, tranny, and cables) can it be done? what axles are needed? howabout optimum clutch set up? can either 5spd or 4spd work? naturally it'll be a d/r 4wd.give me all the possibilities I've got either tranny available, oh yea what drive shaft is needed. Again this is an 84 turbo coupe with auto and shift on the fly 4wd

yea I just got done reading the post. Way more than I can afford, I only paid 400.00 for the car.

I seen the TWE thing how much for the up-pipe?

Well I finally got around to looking at the build date on my kids turbo and guess what it is an 84 build date 04/84 my bad i've changed my sig. but while I'm here do you know if the rotors are the same as a non-yurbo car.

what year tubos will interchange then?

so what is the pipe between the head and turbo called and what can be done to boost oerformance there?

My kids turbo cp is starting to aquire several exhaust leaks, one most notably on the down pipe before turbo. So I'm planning on fixing this but with performance in mind what should be done? larger dia. pipe? I'm thinkin no cat for sure! how about the piece from head to turbo, I'm not totally up on the turbo thing so I need some sound advise.

My kids car a 84 turbo cp has some bad rotors, will rotors off non turbo interchange? front that is?

what type of adapter is needed for that pinto carb?

turning all rotors will get the longest life of new pads, it will also decrease the possiblity of the rotors glazing which can cause a premature failure and also that everpresent squeal, it's worth the $ to do it if you want to get your moneys worth out of the parts you put on. Install all pads at all corners then bleed, you have to compress the pistons in the calipers when installing new pads(they're thicker) so if you were to bleed front or rear seperatly after doing pads you would be doing twice the labor as necessary. ther is also a specific subaru bleed seqence, you bleed opisite corners because of the proportioning valves and the way there set up. caliper grease is there to keep the pads wearing evenly, it helps the caliper slide on its mount bracket when applying brake pressure so that both pads apply the same amount of pressure to each side of the rotor, not using it can possibly lead to the caliper binding and putting more pressure on one side then the other, which in turn will wear out pads faster. REMEMBER:Brakes are a SAFTEY ISSUE what do you trust your life too? DONT SKIMP ON SAFTEY! Your life depends on it!

I'd be intertested if were talkin the north area. Its a little closer to Wyoming, I can't afford a long distance meet. I'm movin to Cheyenne this weekend, but its still only an hour away from some good ol crawlin in the Rockies.

do you need just the clutch pedal or complete unit with all three? Like your other thread I have a driveshaft,crossmember, and pedal(clutch) and they're already off. I've also got the shifter stuff too. I really dont know their value.

the brat is a solid unibody. there shouldn't be any issue with overloading it, the light rearend is exactly why I want to add some weight for sure footed travel in the winter winds. Croosing the summit in Wyoming in the dead of winter can be nasty. I just want to know if it can handle the weight better with the coilovers on there. I'm only talkin a couple hundred pounds, not a whole lot.

what are your guys thoughts about that coil over question? I plan on using EA82 rear coilovers at the rear with 3" blocks, I remember an interesting thread saying that would be a 6" lift, they must have been when they measured that. but anyways one person said that the combo works just makes for stiff ride. well does the combo increase load capability also? Like I said I have to pull a pretty good mountain pass in the winter and I want load up the sand bags and other road hazard items for the Brat to keep a steady foot on the ground. What I dont want is a bottomed out suspension.

My front block is a single block for both front mount holes, what about the coilover issue, thoughts. and this may be a stupid question, with a 3" lift does the steering column get 3"s also, its at an angle so I didn't know if it needed more or less or the same.

mine are 3" is that still an issue?

I have made a set of blocks for my brat much like those on Hasseys', Subarubrats and others I'm sure. My question is this those type use connectors between the blocks for rigidity and support, and the back usually has a tie bar going across from side to side, Are the connectors and side to side braces necessary? My blocks are 1/4" tubing so I know their strong enough, I want to get the brat in the air but I dont have the time to build all the connectors and braces, I know BYB's and others use solid blocks with no connectors, so is my worry about strenth and saftey really an issue? Also if I use EA82 rear coilovers the ride is said to be stiffer, will this improve the load capacity with out bottoming out? I want to add some good weight in the rear come winter to keep the wheels on the ground in the high wind during my commute.

I'm all for meetin a few members. I'm in Laramie, soo from responses maybe a midway meet up would be good? about 30 minutes for some pretty good back country crawlin!

well the dash is such an easy swap that I'm planning on pulling and swappin right there in j/y to show the guy if it works or not, then if not I'll see if he'll just give it to me, Has any one ever tried Dakota Digital out of South Dakota. They make all those custom Dashes for hotrods and also the big score boards at the major stadiums, I thought about calling and seeing if they could offer some insight or actually do a repair.

well the whole trip is highway miles but it is also up and over a mountain, town A 6500ft to town b 7200ft with a summit crossing of 8500ft then back again. I thought turbo might make better use of gas then carbed, by the way my hicrappy has the secondary mechanical mod on it no more vac.

with all the alts I've swapped, that was /and has been a concern of mine. I put the multi meter on them at swap time, all but one running 18-19 volts, correct me if I'm wrong but thats too much! mind you these were all donars and not new ones, isn't normal voltage on an alt to be around 14-16 at best? The dash also gave that ever irritating high pitched squeal or whistle on all the alts that have been swapped in.