the_bard

*curses & mutters* $250 is what I'm looking to pay for the '94 Loyale chassis... rot on the right rear, but it looks like it won't be too much to repair at a body shop. Engine with 98k on her that leaks more oil than mine with 226k. A 4wd 3at that's in dubious condition. *mutters* I say we steal a bunch of dump trucks, load 'em up with rock salt, and dump it all in Eric's yard. . Who's with me?

I would... except this little problem called "broke." . I couldn't offer enough to you to do it justice. The guy at the j/y wants $300 for the chassis, though that was before I yanked the exhaust off from it. Seein' as I paid $50 for the exhaust, I ought to pay $250 for the entire chassis. The engine in it runs, but it leaks like a sieve... a good reseal, and I might have a backup EA82 with only 98k on her. Second complication: According to one of two guys running the yard, they might be looking for someone to work a day or two a week (one of the guys is going to be driving charter busses a few days a week, on a varying schedule). If I can arrange my full time job around it, I figure I'd see what kind of deal I can work out with them. Something along the lines of "Well, I want that chassis. You want some extra help.How many days of my helping do you want for that chassis?" Since they're a "U Pull It" yard, and they're nice guys, they've mentioned that it shouldn't be a problem to let me set up both wagons side by side on the lot, and use their hoist and what not to do the swap. I'm run all of this past the owner of the yard, and get his opinion on it. Even if the work -> chassis doesn't pan out, the wife has promised that the latest I'll have that chassis is the end of June. I've got a buddy that races modifieds, who has no problem taking a weekend off to do the swap at his place. Worst case scenario, I have my dad drive up from his place with his trailer, haul it back home, and do it there. My '92 passed inspection this morning , so I've got a ride until I can do the swap... no rush.

CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute (darn... I knew those overclocking days would come in handy some day.) Don't ask me what a good CFM rating is for a compressor. Cooling fan for a computer case or processor, yes.

If they're the same size in my Loyale (I can't imagine why they'd be different), they should be 6 & 1/2".

Hypothetical situation here... I don't want to jinx myself . So far, it seems every project I come up with falls apart. This one shouldn't, but I'm not taking any chances *crosses fingers*. Say somebody ran across a wagon in reasonable shape in a junkyard. He doesn't trust the engine and/or tranny, but the chassis has little enough rust on it to deem it darn near beautiful by New York standards. Having a good EA82 sitting in a rot-ridden chassis, along with a good pushbutton 5spd, this guy figures it'd be worth slapping 'em in the new chassis. Fix the rust on it, and redo the underbody covering, and it'd be a wonderful vehicle. Only problem is, I'm not sure how the whole registration/titling works out, coming from a junkyard. I'd have to assume that a junkyard would bother to keep the titles around for a vehicle that was in reasonable shape... something they'd expect somebody may purchase in whole. On the other hand, if the yard either neglected to save the title, or never received it in the first place, it'd complicate things rather well. I don't believe it would qualify as a salvaged vehicle, since its being junked was not the result of an accident. Since it was not in an accident, it can't be transferred over to an insurance company,. It's got a bad halfshaft, the engine leaks oil quite a bit (First time I've seen oil on the underside of the hood. I loved watching the oil burn off the exhaust after I finished swapping the exhaust into my current Loyale). Since it's not a salvaged vehicle, I won't be able to get a salvage title. Anyway, how is this normally handled?

I assume it dampens the steering for non-powered steering systems?

www.cvaxles.com, if I remember right. I've picked them up from Advance for something like $80 w/ a $30 core charge, if I remember right. There are a couple good threads on replacing them... do a search or two. I'm in the camp that likes to swap the axles, rather than replace the boots. May as well.

If you're anything like me, and you've got the time, I say tear it down. At least take a look at it... if nothing else, you've got it for parts. 'Course, if you don't have the time, and/or you won't have fun taking it apart & puttin' it back together, just part it out.

Alrighty... making me feel a bit better about what I want to do once I get my EA82 & tranny wrapped up in that chassis from the '94 I found. I'll have to go back and look up the thread on your swap to the d/r... I'd like to have that done on mine at some point. I think I'm going to go with PK for my lift, though. Overall, it looks nice

So if there's only two leads coming off the NSS, here's how I'd have set it up, if I was a Subaru engineer. Run some juice through the hot lead. If the tranny's set in neutral or park, close the switch & the circuit, and the ECU knows the tranny selection due to the hot circuit. Or vice versa... hot if the tranny's set in drive. Same thought for the CSS. Assuming Subaru didn't complicate things by saying "Safe to start when hot" for the NSS, and "safe to start when cold" for the CSS, all I'd have to do is take the leads off the NSS and run them out to the CSS. I think...

There are plenty of newer Sube's around... just a handful of the older ones. Just enough that I don't get crazy when I see that beautiful GL hatchback with no rust, but not enough that I start stalking them to find out if they want to sell it. *helpless shrug*

I've put 15.5 in my Loyale... got pretty nervous, since I never saw an idiot light come on.

Just adds to my conviction that each Subie has its own personality

Not in my '92... it'll only start if the clutch is depressed all the way (and it has to be all the way).

Been thinking about the neutral safety switch. It's purpose (in an AT) is to make sure the car won't start unless it's in neutral or park, right? Ain't that the same idea with the clutch safety switch? Make sure the engine won't start 'less you've got the clutch pushed in. If the NSS just sends a on/off signal to the ECU (Off = in gear, On = neutral or park, or vice versa), wouldn't it be possible to wire the ECU up to the CSS instead?

Got to thinking ahead about this swap I'm looking at. The new chassis has a 4wd AT in it right now, along with a leaky engine ('94 Loyale Wagon, btw). If I pull the engine, 4wd manual tranny, & driveshaft out of my '92, and pop it into the '94 chassis, will the 4wd pushbutton system all hook up relatively the same? Or will I need to rewire & reroute? Also... from what I've heard, the front half of the driveline is a different size in the AT than the MT, due to the differing size of the trannies. If I understand that correctly, then the mounts for the carrier bearing ought to be in the same location, right?

On a off-topic but related note, I just picked up 4x4 Evo 2, and I'm a little miffed that there really isn't much in the way of Subaru's in it. None stock, and few user-created. And the few usually focus around the rally cars, though I did see one Legacy Touring Wagon. Makes me want to take some pics of my Loyale, get Blender out, and put my meager modeling skills to the test. Give it a virtual lift, some new bumpers & a brushguard, along with a roof rack...

After many false starts, I think I've finally found myself a Subaru project that's neither too complex, too expensive, nor too far away for me to complete. In order to get my Loyale to pass inspection, I had to go hunting for a new exhaust system (fell off at multiple locations), and a set of tires. While I was doing my searching, I came across a '94 Loyale Wagon in nearly beautiful shape. The interior's ripped up a bit, but by mixing and matching from my '92, it'll come out looking good. I'll need to find a replacement rear seat, or keep my seat cover. Roof liner needs help, but I think I can patch it using that seat fixer stuff. They ripped apart the door panels in the rear doors when they took out the speakers, but I can swap in the panels from the '92. Exterior... no rust on the entire body except the right rear, where it has the typical rust. Should be easy enough to patch, though I might just take it into a body shop. All the windows are good. From what I got to see of the underbody, no rust there either. I'll be able to take a better look later, since I'm still going to take the exhaust to keep my '92 going until I can do the swap. According to the two guys running the yard, mechanically it's in decent shape. The engine's got about 100k on her, and leaking oil (first time I've ever seen oil sprayed on the hood) from the right & front. Bad halfshaft. One guy stated that it was having difficulties moving around in 4WD & 2WD, supposedly because of the halfshaft. However, it's got a auto tranny in her right now. I can't afford to pick it up until later, but since it's the only Subaru I noticed on the lot, and the lack of interest in older Subaru wagons around this area, I seriously doubt it'll be going anywhere. Especially without an exhaust system, a bad halfshaft, leaking engine, and a tranny in unknown condition. Guy promised he'd give a holler before he crushes it, too. The wife has promised that I'll be able to pick it up before the end of June. That's two and a half months at the latest to get things around. She graduates in the mid of May (and starts working), which means I'll have an improved cash flow for a month and a half of that. I'll probably haul it down to my parent's place, three hours away, to work on it. It'll be handy having both cars right next to each other, during the swap. Gonna pull the '92 EA82, and slap it into the '94. Should I stick with the 5spd pushbutton? The '94 is a 4wd AT, and I want that auto out of there. I'm debating whether it'd be worth it to make a run down to Harry's (or somewhere else) in search of a 5spd D/R to swap in there instead. Assuming I can get the mech. to overlook the rust on the '92, and nobody shows up to take the '94 chassis before I can get to it, it actually looks like things might work out this time! Life is good. P.S.: Sorry... had to rave a little bit

If someone gets around to it, this might be a good project for the USRM. A bit extensive, maybe, but I wonder how many of us would be interested in slapping a newer/more powerful/etc. engine in our wagons. It's been one of those curiousities that's plagued me when I'm dreaming about the ultimate wagon I want to build

So... an old friend & ex-coworker stopped down at my workplace today. He left a while back, and went to work for a Saturn dealership. Few months ago, he switched dealerships. It came across in conversation that he occasionally gets old Subaru wagons (old to him... '80s) on trade-in. The dealership, apparently, usually just sends the off to "wholesale" (I assume an auction). However, the dealership has the option to turn around 'n' sell them. He just sent two of 'em off last week. Anyhow, he's got my number now, and I've got a promise that if he gets anything Subaru from the eighties or early nineties, he'll give me a holler. Even if it's not something that I can pull together at the time (things are tight until the wife graduates, and we can get back on our feet this summer), I ought to be able pass the info along to this site. If he or the dealership is interested, I'll pass along the USMB url. I don't know how much they get for the cars through wholesale, but I don't imagine it's too much. We'd get a possible source for Subie's in the Albany, NY area, and they'd get a second option besides wholesaling to get rid of their trade-in's. And second... anybody have any suggestions for replacing a section of exhaust? It broke off right at the mount right after the front cat, then again right at the flange before the muffler. I figured I'd give a parts yard a call first, find out what they wanted for the y-pipes & front cat rump roast'y, the midsection with the rear cat and exhaust pipe leading back to the flange before the muffler. If I go that route, I've got to figure out how to pull those rusted exhaust studs out (saw multiple previous threads on how to do so, no biggie). If that doesn't go well (the j/y wants too much $), I'm going to look into bending the pipe myself. If I go this route, will I be able to lock down the exhaust at two points, and leverage at a third, to bend it? Or am I going to have to find something circular with the radius I want to support the pipe as I'm bending it? Trying to save as much $ as possible... I'd rather not spend money experimenting... that'll come later this summer .

Off-road rig? Heck, I've seen worse on upstate NY roads. If'n it's structurally intact, the rust isn't too bad, and nothing's bent too far out of shape... I'd love it. I can see the look on my coworkers' faces as I pull it into the parking lot. . Shame it's located in the NW (land of the plentiful Subaru's), otherwise this thing would be my summer project.

Thought about replacing just the VR, but for the hassle, I may as well swap out the alternator itself. Took it out, ran it up to Autozone, and had them test it. Under load, it'd put out 19 volts... when not loaded, it went above 22 volts and off the scale. :wave: They wanted $55 for the new one... I grabbed it, slapped it in, and now that voltmeter is steady as a rock. Life is good. I'll pick up the tires towards the end of the month.

So I was heading up to the Hoosick St. Friendly's, to grab some ice cream for the ladies in the house (wife and sis-in-law). Got going off a stop light, and I noticed that the heater blower sounded a lot louder than normal. Glanced at the voltmeter on the gauge... 'bout 17 volts. Let off the gas, and it settled back down. Pulled into a parking lot, rev'ed it up to 3,000 RPM's, and it launches up to 18V. Blower motor rev's right up along with it, and the dash lights get brighter. Didn't notice whether the headlights got brigher, though. Let it idle, and everything's fine. Proceeded to drive back home, trying to keep the rpm's under 2,500 (the point where that voltmeter needle starts to climb). Yeah... sluggin' around under 2,500 RPM's in a Subie is not fun. Anyhow, I figure that means my voltage regulator is toast. I suppose I could verify it with a voltmeter, but I figure the blower motor and the dash lights corroborate the theory well enough. A quick search 'round the board says I could replace just the VR, but it'll be a lot easier to yank the entire alternator. Makes sense to me... I remember fooling around with bushings on an old generator. Not fun. I'm going to take a look at the local junkyard, and see how much they're asking for it. I need to pick up two tires, too, preferably with the 13" rims along with 'em. What's a reasonable j/y price for the set?

Bit south of me... I'm located in balmy 'n' beautiful Albany, NY

Here's how I did my last one... took me an hour and a half, but that's with some substandard tools and doing it in a parking lot. It was on my '92 Loyale (manual tranny) 1. Loosen the lug nuts. 2. Loosen the castle nut. (Used a medium crescent wrench, and a 3 lb. cross pinion hammer. Not recommended, but works in a pinch. Make sure you don't round off the castle nut). You can use a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to remove the key. 3. Jack the car up, and put it on a stand. 4. Pull the wheel the rest of the way off. 5. Remove the spring pin from the inner end of the halfshaft. Slapped the tranny into neutral, then rotated the halfshaft around 'til the chamfered end of the pin hole is on your side. Then use a 3/16" long drift punch (otherwise known as a pin punch) and a good hammer (medium ball peen) to pound it out. Don't pound in the pin too far... you'll pinch it in the hole, most likely. Pound the pin out most of the way, 'til the punch hits. Then rotate the shaft around again, and pull the pin out with a pair of good-sized pliers. Every time I get back underneath the car, btw, I put the tranny back into gear, just out of habit. 6. Remove the clip holding the parking brake line onto the lower control arm. Just two small bolts. 7. I removed the bolt on the bottom end of the antisway bar mount. 8. Removed the bolt on the upper end of the lower control arm. 9. All this puts enough play into the hub rump roast'y to let it swing out a bit. Get back underneath the car, and yank/push on the halfshaft towards the side of the car... it should pop off the diff stub. 10. Now you've gotta remove the shaft from the hub rump roast'y. I used a 4" section of pine 2x4 that my landlord had laying around. Set it endwise & square against the end of the halfshaft, then pound on the other end of the shaft. That 3 lbs. hammer comes in handy here. If you're doing it in the parking lot, be careful not to hit the car parked next to you. Both times I've done this, the shaft popped out fairly easily. If I remember right, the conical washer popped off here, too. May have taken it off earlier, though... 11. Get back underneath the car, and pull the old shaft out. Put the new shaft up into place, and feed it through the hub rump roast'y. Takes a bit of wiggling. 12. Once you've got it through, you can use the castle nut along with various washers and a good sized screwdriver to pull the axle through the hub. 13. Slap the other end of the halfshaft up onto the diff stub. You'll need to shift into neutral, and play with the shaft to get the splines lined up. Make sure the spring pin holes line up, too. Assuming you haven't rotated the diff stub, the nonchamfered side of the pin hole should be towards you. 14. Once it's back on, turn the shaft so that the chamfered pin hole is facing you, and pound the pin back in. Should've gotten a new pin with the shaft, too, though I've reused a pin before. 15. Reconnect the lower control arm. Helps if you use a screwdriver to realign the holes. 16. Same goes for the antisway bar. 17. Don't forget the parking brake cable clip. 18. Tighten up the castle nut. 19. Put the wheel back on. 20. Drop the car. 21. Tighten the castle nut and reinsert the key. Might want to find somebody with a good sized torque wrench to help out here, to properly torque the castle nut to 150 ft. lbs. 22. After driving around a bit, retorque the castle nut and lug nuts. Did I forget anything? Kept being distracted while I was writing, so feel free to critique it. Next time I do this, too, I'll take some pics. I ought to reference Edrach's excellent thread on the swap, but I can't find it in the search... found another thread that was linked to it, but now the link leads to the main forum area. Thanks to Supaglu for the recommended torque on the castle nut.