baccaruda

also, there should be some coolant hoses involved with the throttle body. At some point, a turbo car needs all of it's coolant lines replaced. The extra heat underhood from the turbo just cooks them all. the more dramatic temperature changes a car experiences in the winter might mean you'll have more to fix.. i seem to recall a lot of my turbo cars' coolant lines popping when it was cold. FYI....

that thing sucks. I recommend a pair of angled needlenose pliers or angled-nose hemostats, and a hand mirror. maybe a flashlight beamed off of the mirror too if you have a flashlight that doesn't taste bad or someone else to hold it. If someone used a hose clamp instead of a tension clamp you're pulling the intake. Another option would be to clip the hose off short of the thermostat housing and splice the clipped-off length back on with some bulk hose and a joiner of some sort.. this of course will require 2 more clamps. Not a permanent fix but maybe good enough to last the winter, fix it when it's warmer outside later

yeah, I gave my credit card a nice hard kick in the gut during my lunch bank run..

because i want to own only one car, and that's the project wagon in my garage (EJ swap, lift, etc). Three weeks ago I got a $200 beaterwagon off of craigslist that I'm driving now - to enable me to sell the brat before my project's done, and last week responded to a want ad on craigslist seekig a brat in the price range in which I estimated that mine fell. I sold mine for $2300 FWIW.

So if you see it, it's not stolen look for Matt to show up here sometime...

I'd pay $25K if it had a removable top and fresh stereo duct tape.

if the wheel's getting jerked out of your hands, then the car is moving too fast - whether you're creeping over obstacles or rallying a poorly maintained road. power steering will give you more leverage over the wheels but it won't let you go faster-without-breaking-stuff.

how fast were you going?

ignore it and maybe it'll go away

if you can avoid driving it this winter, that would be the first and best thing you could do for it.. as far as bondo is concerned, less is more. Ideally you'd sand the paint/primer off of all rusted areas, treat small areas and replace holes with fresh metal, then seal (POR-15 would be great) and repaint. Budget and time are of chief concerns...

changing the tranny mounts saves wear and tear on your axles. if the mounts are worn, the lateral movements of the trans are absorbed by the axles instead of the mounts. try ebay too!

PLEEEASE tell me you put weather stripping behind your rear license plate! That is the number one thing I notice when I'm too close to someone with a Stereo On Wheels™ - they might be thumping but they're also buzzing!

dunno... go to the Yakima website and see what fits that Accord, and then see what fits a Subaru

I don't know.. all good questions too. I am going to use hood pins on the car because of my EJ swap - I'm retaining air conditioning, and I will be running a fan in front of the A/C condenser - which necessitates removing the stock hood latch stuff. 1) I don't think a bump would open them. 2) I'm not certain of that but their website has templates so it could be found out easily 3) Winter conditions are probably the best argument against hood pins on a subaru - except maybe the cost of these in the first place :-\ 4/5) Flexing probably would't be an issue, especially as I am reinforcing the bottom radiator support of the car as well as planning a strut tower brace.

spendy but cool

Rick, you should just charge a per minute fee for a consultation hotline

happy birthday to you!

use the housing and ring gear from the 3.9. I've made a couple of 4.11 conversions and taken them both to a driveline shop to have the shims (for the races) dialed in and both times, adjustments were needed. Something to keep in mind.

http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34445

hmm. I don't have any way to verify what I said about the stock bumper.. my wind tunnel's closed for repairs (no jokes about my jaw being wired shut ) but I would wonder if your new aftermarket fans would work better than old OEM fans... and I know that the tube bumper will restrict airflow a lot less than the stock bumper.. but a tube bumper is probably NOT an option for the Ultimate RX..

part of the problem is that the EA82 front bumper is a big fat air-blocking wedge. Look at it, it's designed to try and smooth the flow of air around the car, especially at the sides and bottom. That robs airflow capacity away from the radiator and fans. I am going to run a tube bumper on the front of my wagon. it will free up a lot of airflow for the cooling needs of the car.

Both carbs are/were 2bbl Hitachis.The '83 has two plugs, one plug has 1 pin off of the engine (3 receivers on the chassis side of the harness) and the other has 8 pins off of the engine. There's some sort of computer-like box under the dash as well. I'm going to see what happens if I service the accelerator pump. Thanks!

nah, it's gone. And I don't know what constitutes a feedback carb... I also don't have an extra $50 for a rebuild kit, and as I'm in "sell the car" mode, I don't want to invest any more money into it if I'm selling it soon and can possibly fix the symptoms...

Rick: nice. it *was* an EA82 that needed the choke fix! and it sure isn't accelerating... i'll search up on accelerator pumps... thanks and I'd figured that the carb dying while unplugged was caused by being unplugged.. man that was annoying though! thanks. Kody: PM sent, let's talk! thanks.

I don't know... last time I had a choke spring break on a subaru, I couldn't start the darn thing (in cold weather)... I'll pull the air cleaner off and tap on the choke assembly and see if it twangs... This car starts with no problems at all... :confused::confused: