jp98

If the check engine light flashes when it is running I would see if there are any codes stored. I agree if it just happens when you first start it then I'd be looking somewhere besides water in the fuel.

I use my impact all the time when I am rotating tires, but I set the torque lower than what is needed and then take my torque wrench to all the lugs for the final step. Also I have never had a problem taking anything off with them as far as buggering up the threads. Now if you are putting something on and then if you don't start the nut, bolt, or what ever you plan on using the impact on then you are just asking for problems. And if a tire installer can't tell that he is causing a problem with that impact and doesn't correct it should be pushing a broom somewhere.

You would think that the Costco tire shop should have the tools to do it in their bays. I haven't looked at a Forester's set up but it isn't that difficult to replace them.

I would plug it in when my vehicles are in my unheated garage. My diesel truck only gets ran about once a month and it keeps the batteries (two of them) fully charged with no problems. I sold my outback but when I had it I would leave it plugged in as long as it was in the garage which at times extended to a week or so. I used the eye terminals and connected them directly to the batteries and then ran the plug out under the hood. Different vehicles will need to be connected differently since the cord length that attaches to the battery might be too short to come out from under the hood. They don't draw that many amps so if I was you I would arrange the plugs to where the battery maintainer was on whenever I plugged it in when in the garage overnight to fully charge the battery every day.

Get yourself a battery maintainer that you can connect directly to the battery and just disconnect it via a plug. The maintainer will put a trickle charge onto the battery as long as it is plugged into a 110v outlet. You could also wire it to where it is plugged in when you have your battery warmer plugged in which will help the battery out a whole lot. Here is what I ran on my 98 Outback and a diesel truck here in Colorado. https://www.amazon.com/Morange-MBC010-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B010NRKERI/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1485373194&sr=8-13&keywords=battery+maintainer

With any winch mount you want the sturdiest mounting spot that you can find. And if you cant find a real sturdy one then you need to add reinforcement so that it is. If you don't you just might have a lot of repairs to do when the body material starts to peal apart when you are winching. And once it starts it will peal apart real fast if you are not watching it. I would still look real hard at where a receiver hitch mounts to the body. This is going to be the best spot to attach either a receiver or a piece of metal that the winch will mount to.

You really don't want to attach a winch just to a bumper but the the actual frame member that the bumper attaches to. Have you looked at placing a 2" receiver hitch onto the rear of your car and then using a removable winch bracket for the winch to mount to? That way you could perhaps rig up a hitch mount up front and then use the winch in either location. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200307349_200307349

I would also pick up a couple of pieces of fiber winch line just in case you can't connect to a tree within your winch cable length. I once stuck my ATV with nothing within 200' of it to winch to except for a couple of rocks right behind me. I ended up running my winch line over the ATV to attach to those rocks to get unstuck. I now carry 200' of mule tape cable pulling tape. It is rated to 2400 lbs and can be used for anything that you need a rope for, not to mention being long enough to almost reach anything that I need to get to for a attachment. The nice thing about it is that 200' of it doesn't weigh enough to even notice and coils up into a small little package.

For a truck you want the winch rating to be double what the truck weighs, so most winches on a pickup should be in the 15,000 lb range. You want to be able to drag a dead weight that way. With a 5000 lb winch and what you plan on using it for you should be OK and if you double the line for 10,000 it would be even better. Just get a winch recovery kit that has a sling and snatch block and you should be good to go. Just be aware that on most of these winches they don't have much more than 50' of cable so that could restrict you on where you hook up or if you need to double the line over.

In my opinion the answer is yes, yes, and yes. But in reality do you plan on keeping the 17 past the years and mileage on the standard warranty? If not then there is no reason to purchase a extended one. But if you are like me and like to keep your vehicles longer than most then those extra months and miles are well worth the money in not having to worry about any of the electronics that are in these new vehicles. One repair can pay for what you paid for the extended warranty.

In a actual foggy condition you don't want to use your high beams anyway. Fog light in their design should be low and project along the ground for the best visibility.

I have driven that mountain route more times that I care to think about from blizzards in the winter to hot dry days in the summers and all I have done is to downshift out of overdrive just out of Vail on my way up Vail Pass and leave it there until I am headed down. I'll then downshift it out of OD again on my way up Eisenhower Pass to the tunnels and then back once I hit the tunnels. I don't like it when a transmission is hunting for a gear downshifting and up-shifting all the time so I just lock it into a gear and go. Even out of OD you'll be well below the RPM limit as long as you run the speed limit.

If you use the fuel pump to pump it out you might have to leave the engine running or constantly turn the key on and off. Most vehicles have a pump shut off built into the ECM if the engine isn't running. Other than that you could possibly bet a 1/4 or 3/8" line into the tank instead of the garden hose. It will just take a little longer to drain.

If you are changing your oil every 3000 miles you are just wasting money. Most dino oils today can go 5000 miles with no problems and synthetics can go 8000+ between complete oil changes. What you need to do to see if you oil need to be changed is to have a analysis done to it. There are a number of companies that will do this for you for a charge. I use Blackstone Labs on my diesel truck and have streatched the oil changes out to 6,000 miles running conventional dino oil.

You can get slip joints for the exhaust pipe where you can either weld or clamp it together. Your mechanic should of know this.

I would be willing to say that after hitting a few bumps that the TV will be a piece of junk. The screen needs to be facing to the rear since the screen isn't made out of impact resistant glass and the first bug that hits it at 50mph just might go clear through it.

If you have to travel much more than a couple of miles or over 40mph find a truck.

Don't even think of trying it yourself. Send them to a machine shop.

A torch will also help a lot on rusted metal.

If the holes were cause by rust then you really need to do the whole panel or cut it back to good metal and weld in a new piece. If you don't get rid of all the rust you are just hiding the problem.

If it is really rusted bad a torch is the easiest way to break it loose.

Autozone usually carries a good supply of different shoulder bolts. I would just take one of the good ones out and head down to a parts store and see if they can match it.

I have found that when removing glass from a vehicle that you want to save it is best just to take a hammer and smack it and then go purchase a replacement. I have tried removing a lot of glass that is glued in or held in by years of age and have never gotten it out crack free.

Go to Blackstone Labs web site and order their free oil analysis kit and when you do a oil change pull a sample and send it off to them to see what is going on with your oil. They will be able to tell you how many miles that you can run the oil. As a example I run straight dino oil in a Ford 7.3 turbo diesel engine and am running that oil for 5000 miles and they say that I can go to 7000 with no problem. Also on synthetics it isn't the oil that is the problem but the filtering. It isn't uncommon to find those that are running a synthetic to change the filter at 3000 miles and then top it off and get their oil change interval up to 12,000 miles.

That kind of problem can be the most frustrating and hardest to find.