idosubaru

There’s a company that sells like whatever length and spring rate you want and they’re inexpensive. Numbchux posted about them in an EA82 older gen thread a year or two ago. I bought springs from them. They’re very popular and well known but the name is escaping at the moment. If your springs are 20 years old with 300,000 miles you might get away with newer used springs or take offs for cheap.

Whole car is easiest. Trans, flywheel, rear driveshaft, pedal assembly, linkages and shifter. Wire in reverse lights and ECU identifier pin. Been talked about and done a zillion times you can search for details. Center console to clean up interior and instrument cluster are ideal. Cruise computer if you want that to work. +1. MTs, particularly converting to one are a slap in your own face. Less reliable, more costly, harder to find, more maintenance, more expensive, with almost no redeeming quality except in the head which we all have weak spots for. And you can pop the clutch on a dead battery that is nifty. needing a tiny little stick to move around for fun or an ego boost....you can do better than that! Play a video game while driving.

i have one of the tensioner bolt kits in my office if that's what you mean and it's all metal. i'm not sure if maybe there's old or newer stock that could be plastic but mine is Dorman 917-124 and all metal.

what - aren't there lights or an APP or a gas station attendant or social media that can tell me, i actually have to like pop the hood open and look at something mechanical...? eeewwww.....

Use a nut and a washer instead of a flanged nut. No big deal. Every other prior Subaru engine for two decades just has plain nuts with no flange. Auto stores likely lower quality than OEM and more prone to rust.

Front end facing uphill fill, run engine, top off, run engine, top off. There’s nothing terribly special about filling them though they can be tricky sometimes. I do it as listed without issues including on EZ engines. Exhaust nuts - match them up, get used ones. If you have a vacant unused vacuum port thats stripped and can’t get out then just run vacuum hose to a Tee fitting and circle it around to itself. I used a plumbers monkey wrench to crank those out.

I would do an EJ22 swap all day long. They're awesome engines...I'd spend the time and money looking for a good low mileage one if you can. They're getting harder to find particular in high demand areas. Some people say they lack power, I don't really care I'll just rev it an EJ22 can take it. The 96-99 EJ25D's are annoying because when they fail there's no warning, no planning - they initially overheat completely and entirely randomly with no warning. It's also quite likely they've been overheated or replaced already...further raising questions about how bad they were overheated previously, etc. because overheating is the first symptom and people often are stranded - they're prone to be "limped home" and run hot too much which doesn't do good things to the longevity of the rod bearings. "i replaced EJ25 headgaskets and now have rod knock" isn't exactly rare. Later 2000+ EJ25's are better as they usually don't randomly overheat but leak extenerally so they're easy to plan ahead for a repair and not get stranded. so they're a better option for reliable, long term, high mileage commuting.

what he said. there's no easy way around the electronic and mechanical differences. you could swap your entire 96 EJ22 with wiring harness and ECU into the 99.

Waste of time IMO if there's no compelling reason to change them. They can easily run 100,000 miles, just look at all the subaru's on the road around you and many of them have gobs of miles on their headgaskets. I guess if you're time rich and bored and watch 10 hours of TV every week then yeah do something more productive and do it. To be more precise: Which EJ25 are you talking about? How long have you owned it? How do you know they've never been replaced before?

The tool is unavailable or very pricey or make your own or just use a hammer/chisel. As you know tread carefully here and get it exactly right or you'll need a new transmission. No torque value necessary - line it back up identically to how it is right now, before the job. 4. yes i DIY tow alignments. there's info about doing it online. 6. reseal the oil pump. replace the oil pump if you can find a known good one.

This is so simple I don't even know what there is to document, or why you'd bother, replace the ECU and any fuses that blew and you're done. It's unlikely to be the starter - waste of time and money you could spend making progress. I definitely would at least get it running and see where you're at. ECU - it was submerged if the other side was the same depth as the drivers side. The ABS and air bag controllers are above that water line under the center console and above the pedal assembly, but even if they weren't those systems aren't necessary to get the car working and they're easily replaceable later. Get the car *running* Then dry it all out really good I wouldn't worry about wheel bearings either until they give symptoms, no big deal. The 05 impreza doesn't have immoblizer or chipped keys?

That requires sourcing, shipping/pick up, towing multiple times as coordinating with a dealer that won't install them so they'll have to be installed somewhere else, which is significant labor costs, then taken to the dealer for more programming. Wont' be cheap, has a lot of moving parts and isn't full of clarity. given the OP's self description and current scenario this seems like a bad fit at this time.

wow, are you serious? what's the exact hang up - the ECU requires seeing at least one valid immobilizer chip before it will allow programming? or it won't allow programming until the car is started...or it'll "lock the entire system down once you open the doors...or what? good grief there's still no easy way around these immobilizers ? there's some talented people out there - get to work!!! being so "important" and "effective" a commensurate drop in insurance rates is right around the corner right? ROFL

Dealer charged me $65 or $85 last year to program all my keys and remotes I bought used, off eBay and Amazon. $1,200 is not correct, call another dealer or tell us EXACTLY why and how you’re getting that number. Easiky as much you’re misinterpretation or misunderstanding as it is theirs.

Yes brake fluid leak is easy to diagnose. Drum mechanism or caliper is leaking (depending which one it has). This would be a leak adjacent to or basically from right behind the wheel area and the inside of the drum or the rotor will be wet. Or the brake line itself is leaking. If it’s the hard line you pull the rear seat bottom and under the access plate is a common place to find a clean section of line to splice in new line. If that’s the case I’d do both she’s if they’re both likely rusted which is usually the case. Buy hard line and splicing tools and end fittings to splice in new line. Lots of other treads on this and some food recent threads touting the easier to work with type of line and splicing. Read those if you’ve never done it.

Do you know why the ER has those clip on and the EA82 does not? Seems like those mating surfaces either leak or they don’t. Would installing them on an EA improve oil retention in the oil passages?

I’d install rebuilt HLAs from mizpah they’re only a few bucks each. These I wouldn’t know if these are necessary but I replace the clip on oil feed gaskets if you can find them and it has them. XT6 has them in every port but I think some EA82s don’t have all the circular ones but just the longer oval one. Are you not going to attempt the pump because you can’t find any available? They fix ticking all the time, ive never needed to replace the cam tower orings for ticking. See the HLA thread about it where person after person says the same thing. But then again I don’t see these things much now that they’re all rusted away and I never see any but my own so the gaskets are 10 years older than when I was seeing these more often in the past.

Why would oil supply cause the nut to loosen? If that were likely wouldn’t this happen far more often? I get theoretically it changes fluid dynamics and forces on the assembly but causing the nut to back off on its own just seems unlikely or again it would be more common.

Engine doesn’t need jacked up. 10mm ratcheting wrench is your friend here like most Subaru engines even back to the 80s. The spark plugs are really easy with the valve covers off, and with the covers on they’re a tight sodoku puzzle of proper length tools that will befuddle a first timer , I always replace them at the same time unless they’re verifiably very low miles.

The heated seats frequently are weak or don’t work. Check basics but they’re often unspectacular unless you want to get into replacing seats/heater elements. Keep that original axle if it’s OEM. Theyre robust and often last the life of the car if cleaned and regreased. Keep an eye on oil level in case it’s using oil. In terms of not understanding it (your words) the VDC is nothing more than a nonVDC Subaru trans with some minors differences and it has no different fluid requirements at all. Clearly use the better fluid if you’re game like GD said but you can use any ATF in it so you shouldn’t needlessly worry about it either like it’s some phantom mysterious maintenance item.

Wow that’s nuts. With each instance are the nut and shaft it threads to new? What isn’t replaced when they rebuild it and could that part be compromised in some way?

Be calm, consistent and persistent with the dealer until they resolve this. I guess one issue is that it’s all happening to you and the dealer never sees it? Test the parasitic draw - very easy test and then you’ll know if there’s a drain. FOB, rear lift, and horn all point to security related issue. The Safety collision alarm I can’t think how it would be connected to those other items....

External headgasket leaks (usually coolant on that vehicle). Have a good flashlight and look around the lower head to engine mating surface front to back and look down the back of the engine from anove where the lower corner of the head is visible. Look for any signs of green coolant. And signs of overheating while driving though that’s not a normal initial symptom on that engine. Torque bind. Drive in a dry paved parking lot with the steering turned to full lock in circles. Drive in a de complete circles. If you feel braking sensation it’s torque bind. All the timing pulleys and timing belt should be replaced. If any of those fail, which they do, you’ll have bent valves and need another engine or $$$$.

Any Codes/lights? Is there no spark out of the coil? Swap the igniter

as he said install legacy strut/springs and remove the spacers.