idosubaru

There are many similarities across many subarus and interchange is common but highly variable. Sometimes interchange is direct, sometimes requires additional work, sometimes requires other parts, sometimes there are additional notes or artifacts of a swap okay with some people but not others. Too many questions and variability to make a simple list. As said it’s experience or google or ask. Subaru while growing like mad has been a relatively dinky player in the automotive market. It won’t have the same scale driven offerings and support as others.

Yep get an 05 panel and plug it in. Theyre usually cheap and easy to exchange. Takes an hour or less. Www.car-part.com If the price tag was for a 50,000 mile vehicle and it originally had 250,000, that’s a more notable issue. Too bad you didn’t notice this when test driving. I’m Assuming the cluster isn’t part of the “married” CANBUS or immobilizer systems which started around 05+. Which I don’t think can be the case if someone did just plug and play swap it.

Subaru racks hardly need bleeding or anything serious. Turn lock to lock a few times and they self bleed easily. Subaru power steering systems usually last the life of the vehicle and have very few issues except air intrusion through leaks and ocassional pump issues. Check suction hoses and Orings and pump gasket/seal. Look into the pump. Is it new - I wouldn’t be surprised at all for an aftermarket pump o have issues.

It’s super simple. Line up crank Line up cams Install belt. Verify they stayed aligned. That is absolutely it.

Ah nice dave. Very cool.

Ive never done it, never had an issue. Seems like pointless step to me as part of a timing belt job. If you have issues - sure address those specifically.

Rering it. GD says don’t hone it or you’ll have issues. Or get another block.

very cool, hope you get to make some stuff for your car! Files for the parts are what is lacking. How are you going to get the files? There’s so few old gen subarus that the market is tiny. In my opinion and experience - Make a range of parts and plan on selling it over the next 5-10 years and you might fare okay, help some old gen Subaru people and have some fun. A one off group project of a part or two in a couple months is likely to die a long slow agonizing death.

Picture or explain better? Support the engine and transmission weight so you can then twist it around and line up the engine mount holes in the crossmember. Try unbolting the rear trans mounts from the back of the underbody to give more wiggle room.

You and the shop may both be right, or well founded in your opinions. I install OEM bearings without packing in new grease and have had no issues. If it wasn’t real grease I can’t imagine not noticing. Someone more knowledgeable will chime in but I think it *used to be the case* that certain bearings did come with low end, if maybe packing, grease. That I don’t think is the case now, but some still say you’re better off packing with a high quality grease. It’s good to remember in general that simple one size fits all solutions fit shops better than individuals - all years, OEM, brands, models and particularly manufacturers...easier to just make sure than check each possible combination. If you’re buying aftermarket bearings I would repack them. Subaru seems to lean towards better, though not always the best, fluid and grease choices than aftermarket as a whole. .

If there were no oil leaks, it didn’t solve your issue, then you basically paid for a $2,000 hesdgasket repair for no reason?

Dealer - If the short block is warranted to 3 years/36k then that’s three times the warranty of a typical repair/shop so that might be your ticket. Their quotes are typically high and often don’t resurface the heads or may want to charge a full head rebuild $$$$ to maintain warranty. Might as well just get new rings if you’re game for that expense.

Temporarily try thicker oil? Used engines are routinely installed for $2,000-$3,000 installed with new timing gear. Price used engines here: www.car-part.com Ask before purchase about warranty - you’ll have 3-6 month warranty to verify oil consumption. JDM engines are $1,000-$2,000. Maybe even an inexpensive 2.0. I just did a new gen H6 for $1,700 and H6 trans for pocket change like $600 shipped to my door. Install would have cost $500-$1,000 if I didn’t do it. why were the headgaskets replaced? If they were leaking oil so bad they needed replaced and now you still have a massive oil leak as well that means it was needing even more oil per 500 miles before the job. Was it leaking 2+ quarts per 500 miles before the repair?

1.verify for certain it’s the fuel pump relay? Maybe it’s not? 2. check engine light on? 3. Look at fsm schematic for fuel pump to see what is related. but someone will probably post.

are they the same as left hand drive? Seems like there’s little reason for them to differ.

Do other auto manufacturers have the same aftermarket issue or is it worse with Subaru because of ground clearance/angles or something?

What are you looking for? Quick and easy and make a buck? Save a penny? Long term reliability? That’s a great price, go for it if you don’t mind some risk and the annoyance of shipping cores and failed replacements. Or if you’re just flipping stuff and need it out the door as quick as possible, these are a good fit. $37 + shipping core - for that price I can reboot an OEM axle and have better axles, better boots, better grease, higher success rates, will last the life of the vehicle and no shipping. I don’t see the reason to get lower grade everything at the same or more cost. A percentage of them will have issues. google whatever brand to see issues - except OEM and new offerings that just don’t have publicity yet. New gen used OEM axles are a dime a dozen, last the life of the vehicle and have nearly 100% success rate. anything else is a waste of my time. But I realize some people are okay with risk and changing axles a few times it needed. GLoyale says if you properly grease and spread the grease before installing aftermarket axles they’re okay. He’s a shop and needs volume, I’ll pass on supporting that market. At that point my time is better off rebooting an OEM axle. If you don’t mind that and replacing a certain percent then go for it. And that’s why you’ll hear good reports. good reports are anecdotal and fail to recognize failure “rate”. No one is saying “every single one fails” right out of the box. It’s mathematical. They fail far more often And Have higher rates of issues over time. For some reason people avoid food or restaurants that make them throw up 20% of the time but don’t avoid axles that throw up 20% of the time. It’s simply because they don’t do axles as often as they eat. If they did they’d see this.

If you can manage custom metal cutting, welding, bashing, massaging and measuring then the electrical will be a breeze. Yes stand alone or find someone to prep a complete harness for you. General Disorder just posted who he likes to use in another thread this week. I’d check that out and see if it can handle forced induction and valve controls if necessary for the engine you choose. avoid later immobilizer equipped ECUs.

Mevotech I don’t think is high end. MOOGs have a lot of attention and I’d use them sometimes but not thoroughly impressed and prefer OEM.

Make sure theres no air in the cooling system. Monitor how much fluid loss is happening. I always try to determine if it’s overheating related to low coolant level or something else. Who did the headgaskets and what brand gasket was used? What’s the story of the car - car that you’ve known for years and never overheated before or a well used and unknown Craigslist’s special you bought yesterday?

RA is frequently confusing to navigate like this. 1. Rock auto usually includes *notes below each part*, read the notes. If a particular part doesn't have notes then ignore it. 2. Google search the part number from Rock Auto that you're interested in and unsure about. Then you'll see them listed on ebay, etc and other sites are usually more clear. 3. There are only three different valve covers in the 1980s (ignoring the Justy): EA81 - i think is symmetric (both sides are the same), flat, and often/always cork and simple. EA82 - each side is different, not flat, curved ends for cam caps, one side is elongated for distributor area of cam ER27 - similar to EA82 but longer for the additional cylinders and includes more valve cover grommets google image search those and you'll quickly see the differences and determine which one it is you need. if a rock auto part is still unclear then back to step 2 or just skip over it, don't chance it.

If you got a code for knock sensor then i'd install another knock sensor. Timing check only takes a couple of minutes and 6 10mm bolts. Remove both left and right side timing covers and check alignment marks. Each is attached with 3 10mm bolts, that's it. Remove them and have a look. I'm not surprised it happens, but I've never had issues with the cheap $7 ebay knock sensors. For that price I've always expected them to fail at some point but I've used them countless times.

Subaru says not to replace them and this has been standard practice across countless subaru people/shops for decades. I don't undersatnd why anyone would believe otherwise amidst such massive evidence. inspect them for damage and clean/prep them, but for an average head gasket job there's no replacement needed. Ideas are borrowed from other platforms, time periods, and manufacturers, the "degrees" step in the FSM, or the disingenuous Fel-Pro recommendations to replace them and believe it - causing some confusion.

Reuse headbolts Aisin timing kit Only buy the gaskets you need don’t buy the entire gasket set if money is an issue. Headgasket and intake manifold gasket are the only necessary items. Exhaust gaskets can often be reused and if they leak, so what you can replace them in 5 minutes. Some folks on here that have significant experience and success use Fel Pros with good results on that engine but I’ve never tried them.

i've never encountered a subaru interior panel that was even remotely hard to remove. couple screws and pry them off with an appropriately flat/stiff tool. plastic would ensure you don't scratch anything, but i routinely use long screw drivers having done it countless times.