idosubaru

Used. Junk yard, eBay. They are easy and don’t fail often enough to warrant new. Last 00-04 outback I did was $50 for the entire sunroof and they’re crazy easy to swap out. Local shop can do this in less than an hour so $150 high end for install/fees if you take them the part. Or just grab basic tools and DIY.

Is there anyway the OP can monitor before/after changes to see if he’ll pass HCs before he goes? Stinks guessing and then not knowing if it’s resolved. Do these early gens have P0420? Air fuel ratio, vacuum...? No, EJs aren’t intended to be adjusted. ECU does it. knock sensors are by far the most common sensor failure on that engine. usually give a check engine light and symptoms. When I sell or give a Subaru away I install a new one since they’re inexpensive and the most common failure. I’ve installed many of the $8 eBay ones without issue. Front oxygen sensor is the only one that impacts engine performance for that year EJ. If you’re going to drive it any more miles it’s probabiy not a bad investment anyway. I often preventatively replace them around 180k, just picked one up yesterday for my 225k DD subaru. quote name="Zootal" post="1379927" timestamp="1520987221"] Could the catalytic converter be failing because of the high mileage? Yes. They often can last longer but it’s a part and it’s old.

Exactly. Replace 1, they very typically last the life of the vehicle. Replacing all 4 for no reason is almost comical. The old adage of replacing parts in sets is overplayed.

I would assume they’re probably not identical but I’ve always interchanged them.

Great. What song did you crank when turning that key for the test? Haha. What all did you do since the last failure? Looks like you’re certain it was the turbo itself?

AISIN or OEM. A 1995 is at least nonintereference so if it does break you’ve just got a break down, no engine damage. For that reason it’s a little less worrisome buying lesser parts if you don’t care about reliability or possible breakdowns. I just helped buy a legacy off a forum member here I think he said had a new belt and it broke within 300 miles. 96 noninterfernece engine so I replaced everything and all is well.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/160708-lowering-an-xt6-what-is-involved/ Rates: if you get an FSM it may list the spring rate of your rear struts for your exact model. Then you’ll have a good starting point for what spring rate to get. FSMs are often available online for free but chux says highest EA82 is 190. For eibach Springs There’s a great detailed chart you can find it online and you just look up the list of 2.5” coil springs and get the part nnumber you want for the length and spring rate you want. Eibach Springs - numbchux used 2.5”, 250 pound spring rate springs in the rear and retained nearly stock rear height, maybe a little taller on a 4WD XT6, which is a fairly tall vehicle in stock form - almost 9” of ground clearance I think. You can the search using some terms there that numbchux uses to find his other comments in the topic. I think he mentions the 250 pounds is fairly stiff so I went a little lower, maybe 200 pounds but wish I would have gotten 225 or 250 as I didn’t get enough ground clearance. Mine seems to sit an inch or lower than stock but I could be wrong as I typically lift mine. They perform fine as far as I can tell, I’m not a performance junkie but it’s rides fine with new springs and new struts. so if you want lower the 200 pound spring rate should work. If you want stock or a tiny more the 250 works. This is all for the xt6 though so your vehicle may differ.

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/

numbchux has recommended an aftermarket spring supplier that sells whatever height, spring rate you want. find that thread and follow it. i did and got rear XT6 springs last year. if i had it to do again i'd get 12", i think i bought 10" and i'd rather it sit higher and may swap them out for a larger set. i think 180 pound spring rate is roughly high end of stock and you can bump to 225 - 250 for more lift/higher spring rate.

Yep. So if you need the rear half they’re all the same. If you need a complete assembly or front half then it’s trans specific. Nah you said it correctly, driveshaft is most common. I was just checking. that doesn’t happen often and seems like it happens less than it used to.

Yes they’re different as a whole. The driveshaft is a two piece assembly. The rear half is the same for all EA82. The front half differs in length due to transmission length. The MT is shorter so an MT driveshaft front half is longer to make up that difference. Otherwise they’re the same. Sometimes people say “driveshaft” and mean axle - if that’s the case those are interchangeable between the two but axles are turbo or non-turbo specific, but there are some benign axle variations even if they’re interchangeable.

In general some dealers don’t pay much attention to older cars and in their book 15 years old is ancient. Most of what the service is new, much newer. They figure you’re just going to go somewhere else and don’t spend (waste) much time on you. This varies by area and dealer but is definitely not rare. You may need an independent Subaru specialist as a second opinion if your dealer isn’t looking at it. The story shared so far sounds incomplete in terms of what and how you asked and how they responded. Did you schedule a service, leave your car there, pay for a diagnosis and get a written quote? Post what that quote says if you did.

Oil loss is what’s important. It doesn’t matter how much fluid you see outside the engine but what matters is how much is being lost and where. If it’s not much then it’s not a big deal. Post a picture of the leak. Check the inner cv axle boots. They can fling grease and always need replaced at some point, they are maintenance items. Diagnosis does not cost 1,000’s. If they know what it is that would cost that much then that needs relayed to us. Properly diagnosis it. Ask the dealer what it is and tell us what they say. If you get nothing from the dealer then go to another one. This is really simple. It’s a simple common leak with verifiable fluid right there in front of your eyes - someone with more than 50 IQ needs to look at it and tell you what it could be. We can narrow it down from there. Post a picture ask a friend to look take it somewhere else. Lots of options. Yeah remotes suck. They wear out get flaky and fail all the time. You can take it apart and see if the battery contacts or button functionality can be tweaked.

why not? Not that I’m recmending otherwise but just being specific.

Good job getting pictures to show the kid later. Lol Wow. Use two screw drivers - one to push the rock from directly behind and Parrallel to the direction you want it to move and the other to guide it out like a reverse shoe horn. Masonry drill bit haha.

The drivers side cam, at least the top one if not both, are loaded when properly lined up. So yes you carefully rotate it and leave it under tension. It may slip and quickly flail past the mark. Happens all the time , just rotate it back, no big deal. Line it up. Line it up. Line it up. I already told you do not touch the crank. It’s pointless.

Do you have an FSM to look at?

"frequent application" - does that mean once per winter, month, or week? yeah those rear folds and multi-overlapped layers in the panels are crazy - i dont' know how anyone addresses, cuts, POR15's or otherwise addresses those. they're crazy and seem to start in places that are unreachable.

Great, glad you got it. But be sure to report back if anything changes. there's plenty of "i thought my overheating was fixed" scenarios.

It’s probably not the starter, but a short or ground somewhere. Best not to guess. Check voltage at the starter when cranking. It either has 12 volts or it doesn’t. Probably bad battery, grounds, clamps, terninals or connections.

Yeah, that’s the ticket ! Google whatever you’re looking for. There’s theeads dedicated to suspension, trans, engines, brakes, wheels, etc.

How do people apply oil? Is it as simple as keeping a bunch of used Oil and spraying it? What do you spray it with? Park it over cardboard for a day or so, so it doesn’t drip on the driveway? Do you remove rotors and pads before spraying?

I can see it either way. GD is right in that excessive bearing failure isn’t common enough to warrant exceptional replacement protocols. The previous example even supports that. 120k in a well romped race use vehicle sounds really good for someone who’s just going to be daily driving a car. But if someone were massively risk averse control tower employee types then sure have at it if you want that warm fuzzy of a “maybe”.

Ah yes I get you. Yes these are interference engines. I thought you meant you were worried about the belt marks. If you already moved the crank mark then the piston position is fine - do not touch it again. It stays put. Just make sure you used the correct mark on the very back face of the ridge of the pulley, there is another mark people sometimes mistakenly use. So you just have to move the cams. If one cam is unloaded, under zero tension, then you know all the valves on that cam are closed. So then you can move the other cam on that same side of the engine to its mark. Then finish that side by lining up the other cam. Repeat for other side.

Didn’t you ask on another forum or thread? It’s easy- Line up the crank - then line up the cam pulleys to their marks. Install belt, check marks. Done. They’ll be under pressure and hit “lobes” of high spots from the cams and valve springs. Totally normal - keep turning. If it slips - do it again. If it hits a hard stop then make sure the crank is properly lined up and the valves aren’t hitting each other. These are interference engines so the valves can hit something / either pistons or valves I forget.