idosubaru

Very common on that engine. The serpentine pulley bearings should be replaced every 60,000 miles. There are two - or bearing in the pulley and the other in the tensioner pulley. Same 6203 bearing. $10 for quality Japanese bearings on amazon and they only take 30-60 minutes to replace. Very easy job - do it every 60k and you’ll never have this happen again. As to your existing issues: 1. Check the work done 2. If the previous pulley was bad enough it may have ruined the mount/bracket the pulley attaches too. Replace the mount. Buy a used or new one. I can ship you a used one for $37. It should be this part you need https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Tribeca-Compressor-Bracket-23950AA070-/173149143638

1. Aftermarket alternators suck. For Starters alternators fuel pumps - avoid aftermarket if possible 2. 3-4 alternators in how long? 3. two batteries in two years and probably plenty of jumps, stop letting the battery die and deteriorate by sitting. Run the car sufficiently or get a proper charger/battery conditioner. 4. I’ve heard dead batteries and jumping then and then running essentially off the alternator while the batt charges can stress alternators. 5. Check parasitic draw. 6. Rebuild yours with a better voltage regulator if possible. 7. Convert to an EJ alternator.

I have no idea but aren’t some diesels operating range like 3,000 rpm or less, half that of a Subaru? And is this suitable for large tractor engines? Higher rpms and maintaining sealing over a larger surface area...? If you’re game for trying just do it and see what happens?

GLoyales point isn’t hostility. yes people are going to look at *all* the facts not just the ones that favor you. That’s not hostile it’s reality. There’s two sides to this story we’re looking at both. The facts are: We will never know if the fastener would have also broke with someone else doing it. That the others did not break is immaterial, as they are not the exact same bolt. On northeast cars its common for one fastener to break and not the others. mechanical facts here are indeterminate. You admitted to trying to help someone get on their feet after a “downtime”. They can’t complete an easy brake they started. A. “Helping” Would be moving on, communicating well with the owner, and learning from your mistakes and hoping and asking they do the same. B. Doesn’t sound like a fully equipped real shop or business transaction. I highly doubt this would surprise most people. post a picture of their location and business name address and current info. C. expecting dealer services for six pack pay. How much was he going to charge - what was the agreed upon rate before the job started? D. Brakes are let go, rotor ruined on an old rusty northeast car and breaks a fastener. that’s so common it’s not enough to condemn a person. Maybe. But maybe not. Notice im focusing on facts - that’s it. Not ambiguous unknowns and personal opinion. It’s not hard to see both sides of the story if you want to.

I’ve never seen those leak, is that an outlier or certain year thing? could it be a hose connection? If they’re pricey, I wouldn’t hesitate to install a used one, they don’t have any measurable failure rate unless it’s some specific year model thing I don’t know about.

20 isn’t unexpected for city driving. Are you positive you should be getting more? Have you actually pulled a wheel and checked the rear brakes? They don’t need to “feel” like they’re braking to impact mileage. A consistent imperceptible, light drag would be enough and you’d never know it. Pull knock sensor and install an eBay $8 cheapie. They’re easy - one 12mm bolt and the most common sensor to cause issues. But without a code it’s probably not that.

that doesn’t matter. It’s the same thing - if you’re controlling it the force the clutches together. If you’re not controlling it then splice the solenoid for that circuit. Either way - same general principle. Pre-2002 default for a Subaru transmission without control was “locked”. After that it’s “unlocked”. So if it’s still the same the solenoid would just need 12 volts to lock the rear output. If you’re not having any controls won’t you loose shifting and torque converter lock up ? Those seem ideal for what your goals are. But you say you have a welder so you’re probably just looking at pulling the rear extension housing and getting busy in there with that!

camber will be off. A lift block is offset to compensate.

you don't have to weld the differential, you just have to force it into "locked" 4WD...maybe you're referring to the rear output as a differential? anyway I'm not sure how that works on the CVT, but it's still clutch plate and electronically controlled so presumably you'd just disrupt that circuit like it's always been.

HLA = "Hydraulic Lash Adjuster". rather than "adjustment". it's a thing, a part, not an adjustment just for clarity. It's what you have instead of "adjustable valves" so to speak. These are what allows you to have an engine with no valve adjustment. They can stick and click. I'm not sure how to describe when this might be a good idea or not but if the thing is black and cruddy and has questionable history/overheating in the past then it's worth considering. https://mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

+1 power issue - check connections and battery and alternator output. if they come on again and you think power is fine, on older models you can just read the brake or AT codes and see what you got. i'm not sure how to do that, or if that's still an option, on a vehicle as new as yours.

buying complete kits is sort of pointless as a rule or go-to approach, i do it plenty of times but it's just one option of many. you need: headgaskets and intake manifold gaskets and cam tower metal reinforced orings. that's it. i'd get them from Subaru. the rest just comes down to finances and how you value your time and flexibility: i would do the cam seals and cam cap orings now - but you can do them later with the engine in the car, they're not hard and not going to cause any major issues. those older seals just tend to suck so i like to get new ones in there. and the orings are brittle if they've never been replaced. i would also reseal the oil pump and replace the crank seal. but again - they can be done later with a timing belt or other front end maintenance in the car. not a big deal. i've had fel pro crank/cam seals leak on EA/ER engines and be notably poor fitting (too big). that was a long time ago, i'm sure they're supplier has changed but whatever. valve cover gaskets are easy to do later if you want to wait or just wait until they leak, not a big deal. i would do them now, but it's not a big deal if pricing is a concern. if you weren't doing the head job - would you be replacing them now? you can wait and see how they feel or fare after the job and decide later, not a big deal. HLA's - mizpah reconditions yours for like $5 each. that's like less than $50 for reconditioned HLA's. not necessary but cheap while you're in there and have the cam towers off. that's far more annoying to do in the vehicle than timing belts, seals, and valve covers.

sure thing, great job staying with it and figuring it out! and thanks for posting back. it's always nice to know something got done and went well.

Thanks for the details, that's what i was suggesting: It seems silly to proceed with anything before knowing the actual data rather than perceptions. I get it at first glance we make assumptions and are often right if it's obvious. But It's not like we haven't been stuck before only to find our perception of a situation was derailing us from progress. Get some real data.

dragging brakes. if the rear brakes are as trashy as the fronts were in the other discussion then look at the rears and make sure they freely slide on the pins and the pads aren't hanging on the clips. read check engine lights. driving style - if you're doing stop and go driving, idling, etc the car isn't going to get worse mileage. calculation - are you actually calculating mileage or just looking at "miles per gas gauge"?

Not at all, it happens all the time. You're attempting some good logical thinking, except it makes a huge universal assumption. That all shops are specializing in Subaru's. I don't know, but i highly doubt the supply shop specializes in Subarus. We haven't been told but more than likely Subaru is a blip on their radar screen. A shop working on every year/make/model ever honda, cadillac, GM, truck, hyundai, diesel, kubota, commercial..they come up with more one-size-fits-all approaches to doing business because they have to and.may not even notice Subaru's. They may blow it off as a problem with the installer, driver, manufacturer, etc and miss the point. Happens *all the time*. Aftermarket axles and brakes are an obvious example. Not one person that's been around 100's or thousands of subaru's over the decades would even blink an eye over two back to back "new" axle failures. An average shop seeing every possible vehicle simply won't see how it affects Subarus more often as it's homogenized with everything else they're doing. A very specialized Subaru shop, like General Disorders, who is doing the exact thing over and over again and adjusting practices to suit experience and changes would have the more statistically relevant data specific to this exact application.

model and year? In the US it’s only sometime after 2000 that the ECU is involved right? Looks like he’s in another country and should probably figure out if his is ECU controlled or not.

Temporarily could you disable the alarm?

Is this a stock or aftermarket alarm and install? Any custom wiring? Cars101.com has the security system details and instructions, maybe something there would help.

Thanks for the data here Gloyale. Too bad it was a pain but thanks for discussing the process candidly.

Replace fuel filler tube. Install eBay knock sensor. They’re tight to get to but it’s just one bolt and can be done without removing anything else. It’s easy.

good job figuring it out. thanks for posting that, i wasn't sure when the seal access changed or if it was only MT's. how certain are you that 06 is gonna plug and play?

it's probably a starter or starter powering issue: starter contacts, battery, or wiring check fuel pressure

That changes everything, the dude should drive it to you and pay you to do it. agreed, do it right if possible and there's no trim to damage. if someone is intimidated and they ignore it, leak gets worse, fill with water, engine overheats, car sits for years and gets moldy and rusty and lost to history.....that's no fun either.

I order Japanese bearings on amazon for $10 each usually like Scott said.