idosubaru

Evap/emissions. But they’re benign. Someone else can comment on work around, we can ignore it where I live so I just leave it as is. For 95-98 EJ22s the EJ22 and EJ25 are basically the same engine as far as the ECU is concerned. Same sensors, no need to swap cam and crank sensors or any other. It’s all plug and play. Yours being a 93 will have some differences but don’t view te EJ22 and EJ25 as drastically different emgines, just plug it in and drive. Your Evan/emissions stuff I think is located and routed differently and May give codes

no wires are new and clean tough I’ll check them closer tomorrow. It’s a phase I EJ22 so they don’t go through the VC.

that's right around the time foresters went from EJ to FB so that will make a difference. EJ - plan on a full timing kit soon. (just the belt is not enough). timing belt is 8 years old now and entering timing change interval by age. Don't pay premium price for a cheeseball timing belt only job. If an FB engine: keep an eye out for oil consumption related info also if an FB engine, check to see if they have similar serpentine pulley bearing failures like the H6 EZ engines do. they fail all the time at seemingly random mileages - i've seen them fail at 30k and last until 150k. i consider them 60k replacement items, that catches most of them. they're also super easy - $20 for 2 bearings and it takes well under and hour to tap them in and out so it's not a big deal. the FB belt routing looks suspiciously similar to he EZ/H6 engines so I'd guess they're going to fare similarly to those rather than other subaru platforms that never had this issue. that being said - maybe the redesign has helped this issue... otherwise just standard parts, inspection, axle boots, rust, fluid changes/history/maintenance.

Great, is the arcing obvious? the few times i've misted or checked at night nothing happened. I have some coils and they're like 2 minutes to swap. i was wondering if coil wouldn't be likely with it happening in the rain.

helped a friend get a 1998 legacy EJ22 a few months ago that was running fine before today. New NGK plugs, wires and timing belt and it's throwing cylinder 3 and 4 misfires today in the rain and was driving poorly around town. How do I differentiate if it's the coil pack, Igniter, or Knock sensor? I'll dig around my parts stash for swap/testing but my 90's stuff is thin, i was about to throw it all away recently.

Pickle fork. Don’t get anything else. The first tool posted above can break at the fingers if they’re bad enough. Get a pickle fork, it works every time and almost can’t break by design. Theyre seriously way better than any other option. One downside is they basically ruin the ballpoint by ripping the boot. But who cares just replace it if you’re in the rust belt.

But to answer your question - I think the sticker is associated with nonadjustable hydraulic valves. If you now have an adjustable valve engine that sticker may be null and void. Though I’d still leave an original OEM sticker in place!

We’re you adjusting for a reason, or issue? Is it still running properly after your adjustment? Get the FSM for EA81s and look at the valve adjustment procedure. Search? I’m guessing it’s been done before?

Great, glad you found an easy fix. Those engines love the stock plugs. Every 100,000 mile H6 EZ plug I’ve pulled still looks awesome and I’ve never seen a misfire caused by stock plugs in H6s, they’re great plugs for simple reliability and low maintenance. The plugs are easy to replace with the valve covers removed so I usually try to time VCGs and plugs at the same time on H6s which means I only ever do that labor job once. I guess if I can make 300k before rust gets it I’ll consider another change.

Then don’t adjust them. Some EA81s come with hydraulic adjusters that don’t need adjusting. Although we can guess you have an EA81 with hydraulic adjusters you should probably tell what vehicle you have and how positive you are it’s the original engine. If the engine may have been swapped at some point then it could be different and the sticker no longer applies. If there’s a problem you’re trying to adjust then discuss the specific symptoms and issues.

I don't think all of us, if any, are asking "What are some of those annoyingly disruptive lights people drive, so that i can install those?" I've seen reviews state LED's aren't any brighter or "maybe" brighter and i'll consider those. I'm not interested in the blindingly crazy lights and there's information to suggest the differences are minor. Compared to what most of us see on our weekly commute Very few, particularly here, care about "legality" on something like this - our weekly commutes confirm no one, including the authorities, give a (!%)*%!, no one is getting pulled over and lawsuits aren't happening or stopping anything. Debating the "legality" of every home-made, DIY, write-up, swap, lift, modification, work-around on this forum around safety and design implications would be an interesting task.

i'll look it up. thinner and how much to mix i'm clueless about. or actually i'll just do this: got it, i've used that before when painting. thanks, i'll probably go that route, amazon didn't have it last time i bought it quite a few years ago.

Chux - what does "thinned spar urethane" mean? talk 3rd grader to me - my proficiency lies with bolts and mechanics not finishes and painting and me and wood should never hang out together so urethane isn't typically something i even think about doing. i got stuck there - i saw so many conflicting opinions about what lasts, what doesn't, what's applicable, and how to finish from basically nothing to super complex i just never followed through. so i've got all the polish and finishing stuff i need but i'm stuck on how to final coat it?

haha. The 11 year old joke had the most favorable outcome. Shoot. Id test for cracked heads first. Having never seen or heard of this before here’s my suggestion: Remove the plugs and wires and then pressure test the cooling system and watch the spark plug tubes to see if they take in coolant. Review the paperwork on the radiator. Radiator replaced in April - which means something was leaking or overheating before that and they tried to replace the radiator to fix it. the radiator was replaced and then the car wasn’t driven again until sold. They ditched the car after the radiator didn’t fix it. Anyway - at some point there was too much water in the system and it froze and cracked the heads. Which isn’t surprising someone got stuck or desperate and filled with water to get home or drive to work and left it without checking it. Then it froze. Or worse it was leaking coolant - as it currently is - and the previous owner let it get so low that it overheated significantly and blew the heads. This seems unlikely for a few reasons so I’m betting on freezing.

Hahah. Same here! 80s this weekend then snow yesterday and today.

$19 and I’ll ship one to you. PM or email me for PayPal and give me a shipping address.

You’re a real person and not an 11 year old making stuff up right? Cracked head is the only possibility. If these symptoms are accurately described my wild butt guess is this car saw a winter with less than necessary coolant concentration, froze internally, and cracked the heads. And you it recently saw some major circumstance like You just bought it, it had major work, etc.... When did you buy this car? Has it ever had major work? Is there any chance the coolant concentration was wrong or never monitored? There’s no way for coolant to otherwise get to all the spark plug tubes. And it would be impossible for both to do it, and at the exact same time.

Wow. Never heard of that. Check or change your oil and see if there’s coolant in it. You’re positive it’s coolant? Which cylinders can you confirm has coolant?

PM, email and/or text me and I can get those in the mail tomorrow.

john i have a 2006 H6 do you want me to send you the injectors? i ran that engine 1,000+ miles before I pulled it and never had any misfires and ran perfect minus headgasket. 130,000 miles and it's been stored in my garage. fuel injectors caused 1,3, 5 here. might want to try getting a set cleaned or swapping in my set: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/102192-exhaust-manifold-bolt-thread-size/ That might seem the most likely if we consider the 6 misfire as well on yours? Mis-aligned cam sprockets caused 1-3-5 misfires in these two: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/162145-mystery-misfire-on-ez30-cyls-1-3-5-noticed-on-idle/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101119-h6-30-dead-bank-135/ How do you check cam sprocket alignment without pulling the timing covers? I guess you can only pull the valve covers and check valve clearances and compare?

starter threads or exhaust manifold threads? that's confusing? if you mean the typical exhaust manifold bolts they're M10x1.25 or just search for it and it comes up with the common oversized 7/16" option as well: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/102192-exhaust-manifold-bolt-thread-size/

Someone had one in New York with multiple misfires and someone figured it out but i can’t recall what it was LT? Swap injectors? A buddy had multiple misfires on his 03 H6 and swapped a coil around with no change. He took it to a shop and they said they replaced multiple COPs years ago and the car has been fine since. I figure Either he incorrectly swapped around or something was miscmunciated but who knows, it always seemed odd to me. I’ve seen one tight exhaust valve on a perfectly running EZ 220,000 miles I pulled to reseal the timing covers.

This is really common. Subaru sensors and parts don’t fail that often. I’ve got 200,000 and 300,000 miles without replacing sensors and that’s not i common. They’re expensive but they rarely need replaced, no big deal. I’m glad they’re generally reliable over cheap. The ideal controllers have moving parts and pads through air which had a proclivity to build up and sticking. Try to clean as stated. I’ve had success and sometimes not. Knock sensors fail the most often in general - get cheap $8 eBay specials. Theyre so easy to replace just buy two if you’re worried about quality. I’ve installed a bunch with 100% success rate. Ideal controllers and other other sensors ocassinalk have issues and are high prices. Get a new OEM it’s not like it’ll happen often. If price is an issue just buy a used one. There’s zero demand because they fail so rarely so they’re nearly worthless. I’d ship you one for $25 because I know it’ll never sell and someone needing it highly unlikely for ubiquitous EJ and EZ stuff.

Wow. those able to moderate aren’t on here much and do not babysit. I’m surprised you got removed so fast, I didn’t really see you do anything egregious. Anyway they arent immediately available and it may be that no one that’s posted can do anything. The limited info here makes whatever “info” you’re worried about an imaginary issue. I’d just move on and forget about it. Actually you might be planting seeds by talking about it so much. I think I saw on google that someone might drive to your place tonight in the middle of the night with full camo and dog poison so you might want to hide or lock your cars up extra good.

A radiator shop could maybe repair yours if it’s in ye metal portion of the radiator. But at this age they’re good to replace. You can’t seem to get what you want at stores? Did you look online eBay amazon - I usually check a couple and see what the difference might be. Maybe look up a 1988 loyal and it won’t get confused with legacy EJ stuff. Post a link and maybe folks can comment.