idosubaru

It’s not *struts*. The *strut mounts* permit rotation via bearings for steering but the ones I’ve seen should make noise as well. Ive shot great grease into dry/rusty bearings of front Subaru top mounts before that are rusty and making noise. That Freed them up.

Nope, like he just said the EJ22 intake doesn't bolt to the 251. Whatever you read or heard is wrong or you misread it. Go check it again.

that device should plenty accurate for quick orders of magnitude assessment.

power steering wire, if it has it, is right by the pump, not at the back of the engine. start looking at the pump, not elsewhere. if the steering rack to steering column ujoint is seized you'll also be fighting stiffness in that joint. check that and change fluid.

noise while under load/accelerating is always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. Im sure there are simpler things that end up having this same description, so let’s hope you find that to be the case b

Cut wire definitely either splice it back together or investigate that wire. Check fuse for seat belts too. XTs don’t have a seat switch, they use the door switch. Are you positive the loyale has a seat switch? I didn’t think they do.

3. Trans-X will fix the delayed engagement into drive issue. 1. The tick almost sounds like the front diff is making noise. Or the inner CV joints possibly - are the boots intact or are they aftermarket axles? Or are you positive this is an engine noise? 2. Rumble - describe better - does it do it once for one second or prolonged, does it go away, does it every time or just sometimes give us hard data on it Stand by the engine bay while someone else starts it - where’s it coming from ? 4. Brakes - easy - clean, regressed slides with Sil Glyde and throw the slide pin bushings away. Then flush the brake fluid.

this is the style it currently has: is it true that any with the same connector are interchangeable? https://www.ebay.com/p/1998-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-Ignition-Coil-Assemby-22433AA400-OEM/1911317803

I have a 1998 Legacy that has had a different EJ22 put into it. I'm seeing various cut off dates, some listed as "impreza only". I mainly see two types around this vintage - one with a female pigtail and another male variant with no wire/harness. Is that the only two possible ignition coils for an EJ22 installed into a 1998? Are there any that "look similar" but are actually different?

f both of them aren't working then it sounds like they were disabled or something that affects *both* sides is the issue. while they fail, the chances of both failing at the same time is unlikely and points to a shared issue or someone intentionally disabled them. check fuses/plugs make sure someone didn't just disconnect them. check that door switch is operational, i imagine that's what "triggers" them? convert to non-automatic download the FSM and start trouble shooting to retain the automatic ones.

Job is done. I pulled lateral link bolt to swap axle. Thanks all This car is from California, no rust and hub assembly was swapped sometime before I helped a friend get it. Lateral link and bolts all came out easy.

this is originally a legacy lifted with taller struts and i think it's seen some offroad time in it's past - think the lift with no spacers aided this in happening? thanks, helping a friend (free as always).

5 speeds are what most people do. Automatics are harder because the TCU for the trans wants the original type of data signals. 5 speed doesn't need any of that. For what you're doing, the TCU is going to want the original 4 cylinder TPS and engine data....not the H6 TPS/RPM data. I'm unfamiliar with how that shakes out but I think that might be a contentious issue for that swap. Could you also install the H6 trans and TCU? If it's a VDC model you'd get VTD and the ECU and TCU would be happy talking to each other. Not sure where the H6's pick up their wheel speeds from though - need to check that.

1998 legacy automatic, lifted with taller struts. while doing a wheel bearing job i noticed the outer CV joint turns without the shaft moving at all. 1. i assume the axle is junk right? i already bought another axle but just checking. 2. i've done probably triple digit front axles, but not an EJ rear by itself - what's the process for swapping rear axles - remove strut mount bolts or lower lateral links? 3. Car drove and shifted fine besides the loud wheel bearing - was it like this and not noticeable while driving, or happened during disassembly? 4. Would the car drive with this axle installed or would it have blown apart in spectacular highway fireworks?

no kits, never have been, no parts, no support. frankenmotor swap can get close to 180 hp. EZ30 is 220. EG33 is 230 and a great engine, but old now and beastly to get parts for as well. i daily drive an XT6 and routinely take it hundreds or thousands of miles on trips without sweating. i've also daily driven them since 1993 and have owned like 20 of them.

Yes 99 legacy's are Phase II. As GD said they're not robust machines the Phase I EJ22's were so don't wasn't time or pay top dollar trying to find one - just get an EJ25, there's more to pick from.

it's not overheating because it hasn't lost enough yet. headgaskets don't always cause overheating, that doesn't mean it isn't the headgaskets but don't rule out anything just do proper diagnostics and look for the leak. besides just leaking externally, it's not the water pump, highly unlikely on Subarus. keep looking for leaks. pressure test it. EA82's have a shared coolant/air passage at the intake manifold gasket on top of the head. if that gasket leaks coolant will leak internally, use coolant, and you'll never see it. i'm unsure how to confirm that as a leak source though. does anyone know a good way to test for this?

Yep, it's a mechanical part so they can surely fail. I certainly wouldn't say they never fail. I've had some axles I wouldn't attempt that on knowing what they had been through. One difference I've seen is units that have seen significant abrasives, two that i've seen are sand like coastal areas/offroad and certain states/situations that use heavy abrasives for winter treatments more than chemicals. when those are thrown into joints they get torn up quickly.

JDM engines they come with A/C and power steering and alternator.

I've never had the patience to disassemble, good job DaveT! I've always sprayed it out and worked the joint around and called it good.

If they're OEM - clean and reboot them. they're binding because they have zero grease in them and tons of debris - not because they're necessarily permanently damaged and unusable. i've done it with 100% success rate so far plenty with 10's of thousands of miles on them. the general idea that "noise = bad" is terribly inaccurate. if you don't believe me - wipe out all the current grease and dirt you can and stuff and pack it really good with grease to test it out. the noises will subside. you gotta pack it really good by hand though because you're not taking the joint apart so it's hard to get new grease in and old out - you can't just sit the grease in there somewhere for it fall right back out again, and it's all going to sling right back out when you drive again but you'll get 10-50 miles of notably quieter/less symptomatic driving to verify they're worth rebooting if you don't believe me. i get that i'm quite literally almost hte only person in Subaru world saying this. but i've done a bunch of times. i've also seen so many aftermarkets break they're simply not worth my time when there are easily, repeatable, 100% successful methods out there. also - go find some used OEM axles. also - some folks say they have better aftermarket success by judiciously spreading the grease out before installing them or replacing the grease with good quality, proper amounts before installing. personally i say why bother when i know i can find an OEM axle, but those shop guys need easily repeatable, quick turn around supplies and have found ways around it.

yeah i'd walk. the tensioners are fairly reliable and not problematic unless oil is neglected. they are supplied by oil, if the oil isn't changed frequently they'll get gummed up and stick, otherwise they're reliable. but now that these engines and cars with them are going through multiple owners, in the rust belt, and are nearly worthless, the oil level, and change intervals, routinely get ignored.

Change timing belt and pulleys soon. It’s gonna fail and bend valves that codswallop is 20 years old and over mileage.

1. Test coil 2. Clear codes and see which comes back first (wash rinse repeat) 3. Change plugs and wires. NGK or OEM.

I may but I’m traveling.