idosubaru

The differential/trans case is the same part number: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2006_Outback-Base-25L-4AT/CASE-ASSEMBLY-CONVERTER/49240274/31220AA220.html Differential is the same: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/CASE-DIFFERENTIAL/49248101/38421AA021.html Roller bearing looks to be the same (legacy/outback confusion notwithstanding): https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/ROLLER-BEARING/49287344/806340080.html The seal and retainer changes part number: https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/OIL-SEAL/49287529/806730032.html There's a good chance the seal changed part number due to the retainer change rather than a shaft change. Compare the ID of the seals or the OD of the shafts and you'll know. That's what I meant about checking subaru part numbers.

looks like the differential didn't change, as I suspected: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-1999-2016-SUBARU-Impreza-Forester-Legacy-CENTER-DIFFERENTIAL-ASSEMBLY/202153582774?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALegacy&epid=1437891804&hash=item2f114ae0b6:g:7HAAAOSwRbtaOwdE so the stubby shaft spline count/length is all the same. so if the bearing/carrier supports are the same, the method I mentioned has a good chance of working. and you won't have some wonky ABS, alignment/track mismatch.

i just said that. have you tried putting the 2001 stubby shafts on the 2001 axle - that is your best chance of working. i didn't think the outer CV would work due to the major overhaul of the knuckle and control arms.

the key is unnecessary - i've installed them without keys many times. there's been way too many stories over the years of hours, engines, and sweat wasted over something that can easily be worked around. i've never used a torque wrench on a crank bolt - 3 foot pipe and "take this!" on those non-aluminum threads and alls well over and over again. they don't come off unless you simply don't torque them enough. and i've had them really bad, had to file them flat and get a new pulley before so the pulley isn't sitting at an angle...no big deal, same thing. i get that working on someone elses car you can't then guarantee it'll ever be noted in the future...so that changes the dynamic. but when i ask someone "I can do this for free if you take note in the future, keep the details in the glove box - or we can go on to a $$$ or $$$$ repair" - i let them choose and they've never chosen the $$$+ repair. if it's a pristine $10,000+ valued car, might be selling or trading then yeah i'm gonna try and clean the key up and make it right, i have repaired them before but i definitely don't sweat it, there's options this isn't a big deal at all.

02 is like every other 90's subaru's and XT6's - it slides onto the stubby shaft in the transmission. on 06+ the stubby shaft is part of the axle, not the transmission. axles slide into the transmission.

Using a 2006 knuckle will render your ABS inoperative as the wheel speed sensors are different set ups. You could try installing it and splicing the wiring and hope the the signal and tone ring count are the same. And won't it change track width and alignment since the axle and knuckle include the track width changes from 04 to 05 models? CV side - 06 has bolt on wheel bearings and different ABS, 01 has press in bearings. Trans side - 06 has stubby shaft, 01 has receiver style and the stubby shafts are in the transmission. Possibilities (not sure this works but similar swaps have been done for conversions/etc): 1. Install the stubby shafts into the 2001 axle. The 2001 stubby shaft just pulls right out of the transmission. stick a screw driver through the axle pin hole and pop on it with a hammer and it pops right out, just a circlip holds it in place. If you then insert that 2001 stubby shaft into the 2001 axle it might then be identical to the 2006 axle and slide into the 2006 transmission if they didn't significantly change the front diff. you could check diff parts through online subaru website or a good local dealer and see if they changed or are the same. 2. Swapping the 2001 CV end onto the 2006, but that's much more difficult and you might destroy your axle trying.

Any 1996 and earlier EJ22 is noninterference. 1990-96 are noninterference. So yes a 95 vehicle Is in that range as long as it hasn’t been swapped.

It has nothing to do with the ECU. Clogged exhaust or catalytic converter? When it’s overheating does the cabin heat blow cold? What kind of daily temps are you seeing, what country and flat easy driving or mountainous dirt road climbs? I would get the temp gauge working properly. Replace sensor and swap in another instrument cluster (which is really easy just get a used one). Or pull and inspect yours to see if you can repair it. Or get an aftermarket gauge while you figure this out. Either way Get some real data. Blown headgasket. If they’re not blown yet they’re going to driving while overheating. Every engine ever made blows headgaskets if it’s driven hot. Oil and coolant DO NOT mix on that engine, or if they do then the condition is so bad you know what the issue is without needing to check. When it’s overheating it’ll push exhaust gases into the coolant and the pump cavitates. To verify find a shop with a $$$$$ has analyzer and they can detect gases i the coolant. Or Something is clogging the coolant flow. You seem confident this isn’t the issue. But I’d check the radiator. How do you know it’s flowing enough? Or I’d pull the water pump and inspect it. They dont really fail on that engine but at this point you need to verify it can properly move sufficient fluid. Pretty simple - clogged, pump or headgaskets. That’s it. It seems odd to me that the gauge goes to the right position like it working but you think it’s overheating.

Install a timing kit - Aisin kit or OEM. Replace coolant and front diff and ATF fluid. Gloyale leaves the tensioners as they rarely fail if compressed properly. Water pump and seals are rarely problematic (like they are on older models) and need not be replaced before 200k, Id leave them on that engine.

Replies lasts post. All 95-99 Imprezas outback’s are 1.8 or 2.2. All US market Imprezas in the 90s are 1.8 or 2.2 except the uncommon RS.

US market 1990’s Outback Sports never got the EJ25 from the factory. Avoid the 99+ EJ22. Get a 1998 or earlier EJ22...or EJ18. . 97-98 only if you’re willing to install a complete OEM or Aisin timing components as theyre interference. To check engine offerings: Cars101.com You can also look up parts on www.car-part.com. You’ll see the available engines listed there for whateber year/model you out in. 2.5 won’t be listed. You can also look up Subaru parts websites. Lots of ways to skin that cat.

this misses the prevailing issue(s). 1. it's not "grease" and "lube" in the generic sense, that misses the issue entirely. the issue is the *type* of grease, not amount or process. old types of caliper grease will cause the rubber pin bushings to swell and seize in the caliper bore. 2. Subaru's OEM grease is excellent or Sil Glyde or other high quality grease that won't impact the bushings. I haen't researched it but i presume it just needs to be silicone based? I use it in all my Subarus even those without rubber bushings because it lasts so much longer. 3. Or you can throw the pin bushings away and use whatever grease you want. They're pointless and unnecessary, i've been doing it for years. I do both, throw away the bushings and use better grease. 4. If you regrease the slide pins every tire rotation or two your brakes will last the life of the vehicle on basic pad and fluid changes. you'll never need to replace rotors or calipers or have slide pin issues. i usually also replace the caliper pad clips after 150-200k miles as they can get bent or built up or corroded over time and hang a pad, though they can be easily inspected to check for any build up or deformity that could cause issues.

Same here. Rust, age, and market reduce viability of those prices. They’re uncommon and the market spreads out and isolates what is already a small sample size. Maybe I didn’t notice one or a couple over the years but otherwise they’ve all been local chain or rebooted OEM.

If you find good used prices, get 2 so you have a back up. You’re asking about a different vehicle. 99 Impreza is Phase II and this thread is about Phase I engines. The alrernators are physically externally the same and do bolt up but I’m not sure the electrical plug is the same. I don’t think they are. If it is the same alternator then call another dealer. If it’s not the same, you can look into trying to convert yours to accept a 1998 legacy alternator like mentioned in this post. It’ll bolt up to the engine, they’re identical in those terms. The only difference would be the wiring plug, just splice in a different pigtail and it would install and run if it’s compatible electrically.

Post a picture and we can say more specially. Ive had totaled cars drivable in an hour or two before - pull, pull, pull - bolt on a new fender radiator headlights and hood and its drivable. Then get it lined up and fine tuned later. I’ve pulled hoods straight before too. Either to leave it that way on a rusty beater not worth Parts or for temporary use until a reasonable price used color matching one shows up.

I’ve rebuilt/repaired a lot of wrecked/totaled/salvage subarus. It’s easy. Just pull the front out carefully. Try to pull as much out as-is that you can don’t disassemble it. See how fa you get. Winch, come along, portapower, even jacks turned sideways or rope and a tree can be used if you want to get real ghetto. The core supports and headlight surrounds are flimsy and easiky get bent back to shape. Don’t worry about getting it perfect. You just need to get the body panels to bolt on and line up. The radiator is removed through the engine bay - f “behind” the radiator support, not in front so you shouldn’t have any need t remove the condenser. The condenser for the AC you can probably just leave it. Why do you feel it needs removed? Pulling the headlights is trickier as they want to locally deform rather than across a larger surface area like you usually want. I’m usually using a winch or come along and blocks of wood with towstrap to spread the load.

I’d call that aftermarket. But I’m not familiar with remans. The clamps have green dots on them. Is that the yard or an OEM marking? The outer boot doesn’t look like an OEM boot but maybe is just the resolution or stretch. Does it feel likes it “stiffer” than the inner boot like OEM?

hahaaa!

Presumably you mean the rubber ATF fluid hoses? What cracked and what work was done? What symptoms did you have leading up to the failure? Check engine lights? Trans codes? Is the transmission pan dented any?

depends on the condition of the radiator. Many have notable decreased cooling capacity from stock. Steep grades also generate tons of heat. But yes its “possible” for ea82s to be drivable below summer temps . Turn heater on high to unload more heat. Avoid AC and defrost as appropriate. And watch temp gauge at all times.

or one could say they are prone to crack anyway and probably happens more often on overheated engines due to the additional stress.

that's awesome you're willing to try that, good idea. nah, they crack all the time. by far most common EJ sensor failure for all 20+ years of the existence of that engine. i have no idea how many i've seen crack.

since 2010 or so there are more battery issues across multiple forums. there is a lot of chatter about brand/size/reserve capacity or something along those lines, and "better" choices are mentioned. i don't know the data nor the sources so maybe it's just subaru's volume increase or more demanding customer base that can't handle simple battery issues, and not to do with batteries themselves?

my guess is they want to install the engine and test run it before putting any money into parts. pull the radiator first if you are going to install the engine then do the seal later...although if you're wanting to test the engine first that might not be the convenient option. but then you have more room to work on it, less risk of damaging radiator and if engine is out radiator is presumably empty anyway.

Get a better battery. It is a silly market artifact. manufacturers are also trying to save every pound they can while maintaining high safety to meet strict environmental laws as well. I’ve never compared battery weights but it wouldn’t surprise me if it’s a lower weight option.