idosubaru

Wow. Nice work John. That’s no joke working on rusty scrap under a car with all the dust dirt gakeimg rust all falling in your face.

can’t afford a proper repair but want a bigger, less reliable, more expensive and problematic engine? engines are cheaper than a dumb repair. 1. Www.car-part.com for a cheap engine You can also install an EJ18, I’ve gotten 100k EJ18s in great condition for $150, there’s little demand for them. Bolt the EJ22 manifold right on top of it. I’ve got an EJ25 but if you can’t afford and engine and I’m not shipping it...

New rings require a home right? I can’t imagine not converting my XT6 to newer if the engine goes wonky but good to know my options.

It’s actually relatively easy but annoying and “custom” It’s 2 12 mm bolts to remove the rear seat and you’re at the access cover. Snake new line through, splice it in on both ends and you’re golden. Not much to it just fiddling line in place and slicing. I’ve even ran all the line, left the seats all apart and driven to a shop across the street from my office carefully with the ebrake and had them make the splices in situations where I’m helping someone for free but have limited time. Of course you shouldn’t drive without brakes and crappy rear ebrake at all. That’s crazy.

Why are you redoing it? If it’s really tight be sure to walk it from side to side and various points even if it feels like it’s not moving or wiggling, keep at it. I’ve wiggled/walked stuff before and been surprised at things loosening after so many iterations I thought weren’t doing anything.

Run it. Put it on the front and leave it there while rotating the other three and it’ll wear faster and “catch up” to the rest if your driving wears the fronts faster. I’ve had I think 3 new low mileage Altimax get bubbles on the side walls. They’re a very nice tire for the price point but i think they’re susceptible to terrible roads (ours are awful). I’ve done it a bunch of times and never had issues.

No I was just telling you a quirk about that vehcile. Alternators aren’t common failures but Subaru Alts are usually $300-$400 and this is one case where they’re cheap so i was just letting you know so you can avoid craptastic aftermarket one if needed. At that age and mileage it’s no shock for an alternator to fail.

Same engine. 95 AT will have EGR and 95 MT will not so it’ll look different but no big deal, plug and play and easy to work around if needed.

Drop a used trans in Find tons here: Www.car-part.com Loosing reverse happens and GDs posts confirms my suspicion as I’ve never heard of it being fixed/fixable but haven’t tried myself.

don’t overheat or go lazy on the oil. I’ve taken or helped others take a few over 250k with no headgasket issues. I wouldn’t think about them until they made me. Replace timing belt kit for reliability, one of the pulleys will be what strand you. Subaru dealer sells alternators for $75 for that car.

Wow they’re that bad? The cable snaps or something else? I’ve only replaced one, never had issues but mostly long distance trips and only a couple years before I sold it.

AT and MT doesn’t matter at all. Bolt flywheel to engine. Note EGR. If donor doesn’t have EGR then install it as is. If donor has EGR you’ll block off the EGR port. If you have a 1995 MT then that’s a non-EGR engine. Ideally we know what year vehicle and donor engine

What vehicle? www.car-part.com Post in parts wanted forum Anything newer maybe swap in?

That’s a noninterfernce engine. Reinstall the belt, or Heads and belt, and run it. Resurface the heads yourshef or if you can find a place willing to do it reasonably without a full head job and pressure test. Those engines can be very practical reliable and rack up high miles if not overheated or oil is abused

well said. exactly right - panels are easy but getting into all those folds, seams, and bends and layered pieces is a nightmare. unless you physically strip the entire car down and cut out inordinate amounts of material it's just a never ending project that's never very good, keeps coming back. exactly right on point too - getting a rust free body to start with is phenomenal. i've gotten a few from out west and south and oh my goodness is it worth it. i can't believe how the bolts come right out! it's a logistical effort no doubt but in the end you can find a reasonable deal and i have to imagine i've saved more over 10 years than i would dorking around year to year with rust buckets. or find a newer car and swap all that EA81 gear into it, LOL! i'm done with rust.

look at the pictures in the add and it is an Outback which would have the less desirable EJ25. you're right to some extent, one rusty line isn't enough to go on really. usually it means there's more expensive rust coming - exhaust, suspension, fuel lines, brake caliper slide pins - all *very* common failure points, but not always.

Okay they’re wanting to split the block for the rings then, not the flexplate or stuck bolt. Id just install two used heads and be done with it. Www.Car-part.com for the cheapest set of good heads in the country. I would not want any random shop or person doing a hone and rering Or just get another engine. I’m not seeing what year or engine this is. If it’s an EJ25D then swap to an EJ22.

Yes good point - many charging and battery issues come down to dirty terminals and loose clamps.

a lot of people around here just find a shop more conducive to passing it if it fails, even if you do repair it.

2.2 was legacy and as he said, not here. loyales had the non-turbo variant of the engine your XT - the 1.8 EA82

the nutserts are nice, they come in handy if you have no access.

Do not split the block. Removing a bolt from the flexplate - that's about as easy as it gets, there's no need to split the block, you should have removed the bolt at home, or the shop should have no problems getting it out. Why not just remove the bolt yourself -drill it off, grind the head off, use a chisel to knock a V into the edge and then turn the chisel into the "V" shape such that you're "loosening" the bolt. And what do you mean by "engine failed" and "crank pulley" fell off. crank pulley falling off is one of the most overrated issues mentioned - engines get condemned for something that can be fixed in no time for less than $50. But your details and what you're trying to do are confusing. The story is hard to follow with flex plate....engine fail....crnak pulley falling off...we have no idea what happened, what's happening, and what your plans are.

1. Paint/draw a mark across the crank pulley. Then start/drive the car. If that paint make separates then your crank pulley has failed and the OD isn't spinning at the same rate as the ID and your charging is way low and not keeping up with demand. I would start the car and test voltage at the battery and alternator - it takes like 1 minute. Then tell us the results, don't just guess because electrical stuff can be confusing and people often needlessly replace a battery or alternator. Or: 1. test the alternator - it's free at most national chains. they can test it on the car or off the car. 2. test the battery - again national chains test batteries for free

Axles change in 2005 for outback/legacy. So 2004 and earlier are identical to older models like you’re used to. 2005 and later slide into them trans. Forster and Imoreza I’m unsure what year they change.

well i agree to an extent. it's not just removing 4 more bolts - it's 4 more bell housing bolts and the starter, engine mount nuts, (one additional lower front mount for XT6's), torque converter bolts if equipped, and setting up the engine hoist, chain lengths/load leveler, and separating. all that is extra work, equipment and time. I do agree - it's easier in some ways and i typically pull, but then again I don't do EA/ER stuff any more since it's all rusted away out here. but if i had some compelling reason like some people do, no space, no lift, etc - i wouldn't hesitate to do it without an engine lift either. i guess if i did it more often and came up with a consistent set up i could pull it off in an hour or less, but it just never happens - setting up the stand, chain length/leveler, supporting the trans and hoping the lower nuts and engine mount nuts aren't rusty, etc.