idosubaru

Sounds like a ujoint busted and the drievshaft slid backwards (during the incident, during towing, or maybe someone already diagnosed it) letting oil out of the transmission which they always do if you pull the shaft out. If towed or pulled up a hill after the failure (unlikely it blew up where its currently sitting) that will cause tons f oil to run out. Speaking of towed - was it towed with 2 wheels on the ground and how far? A failed and flopping shaft can cause damage to the trans extension housing. On later manuals and autos you can replace just the extension housing alone without dropping the transmission. Theyre pulled all the time for center diff repairs. But I’m not sure you can do that with EA MTs as well? If so it would be an easy enough repair and you’d have a chance of no damage as well. Sloppy shifter - I wouldn’t worry much about. presumably it drove fine before this failure event so that’s a good sign. ask the seller how it drove. You can replace the shifter bushings.

Check battery as well while you’re doing all this. Could a battery with internal issues help cause this?

What is that?! You’re a sleep walker and cut and welded that thing in the middle of the night. Those tabs aren’t offset, what are you going to do with that?

Good job. Flaring can be annoying.

Under console to adjust for stretched cable. Yes it’s possible, that’s what it’s for. At wheel to remedy rear shoe clearance.

It’s been the same part for like a quarter of a century, just buy it from Subaru 1. call subaru, online subaru parts places, opposed forces for part numbers http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g12/type_19/engine/piston_and_crankshaft/ 2. If the timing sprocket portion is fine and holding then there’s no need to replace it. It’s entirely pointless and unnecessary for the crank pulley - just crank it down tight and they never come off. I’ve “fixed a bunch” which just means install the pulley and bolt and you’re done. Easy.

I prefer buying them private sale as it’s easier to know the history and why they’re selling. Find someone moving, growing family, straight shooter etc and it’s generally easy to tell why they’re getting rid of it. I’m looking for a clear and compelling reason, not just what people say or regurgitate to others and themselves to justify the purchase. Change serpentine belt bearings every 60,000 miles. $10 each and takes 30 minutes. Very easy and common failure.

grsat cars. What you mainly want to avoid is making sure the person selling it is in no way moving on due to any cooling related issue at all. Any recent cooling work is cause to pause and question, if not run. That’s the short answer. Here’s the long version. These can have unprompted failed head gaskets that are very difficult, if not impossible, to check. At initial onset these overheat very randomly and can be spread out for months. This makes it easy for people to inadvertently see a blip/have a concern and change coolant/new tstat, new radiator cap and think it fixed because it seems symptoms are gone. Or they can just be shady and sell them quick or trade them in. Used car lots are where many H6 cars end up. I’ve seen them for sale with headgasket issues and of the H6s that incurred failed headgaskets shortly after purchasing all of them came from used car lots. It’s convenient to get a high repair quote and trade the car in where it goes to auction and then someone flipping cars - a person or used car dealer. It’s a small percent but the price and failure modes make it easier and more costly to get a new-to-you one with issues and not know it.

Nice hit! How does it sit in a field and not rust? Does that only happen if rust has already set in? I guess I’ve got a couple that have been sitting for 14 years.... what the smokes I need to do something about that I’ve meber thought about it like that. I’m *that farmer*.

Great. Just checking so we get what’s going on b

thanks again.

I’m confused why you didn’t check and tighten the belt or replace it? people largely removed from car world frequently mention equating noise with belts. 1. Tighten belt 2. Replace belt 3. Crank pulley separation - draw a line across the face. If the line “breaks” after a few drives, particularly after a voltage event then replace the crank pulley.

Ah thanks! Do you know if VVLS starts in 06 for all engines and models ? Forester/legacy and H4/H6? As already said the intakes are interchangeable so that does away with DBW.

Agree with GD - none of that is swap related unless the person swapping it screwed up. That EJ22 and EJ25 are interchangeable. They’re basically the same engine for your intents and purposes so its pointless to look there for issues. Make sure the transmission pan isn’t dented or compromised and check the ATF fluid level and condition. Muffler has nothing to do with P0420 on that car, doesn’t matter who you talk to that says otherwise they’re wrong. Also the P0420 is genrally a benign code on that car and should be ignored until the TC issue is confirmed and dealt with. That is far more problematic. “TC” will chirp if the lower bellhousing cover plate is bent and rotationally striking the TC or flexplate. It’s thin and easy to bend back away from the rotating mass. They’ll also chirp if the front diff lacks oil. Check front diff oil. Might as well check AT oil as well to verify and make sure you know the difference between front diff and atf fluids. The exhaust is the same except the front exhaust manifold is single port instead of dual port but that part is completely interchangeable between the two / bolts on and off and makes no discernible diffenence otherwise.

EJ blocks are interchangeable. You just swap blocks, you’re not changing anything at all but the block and headgaskets (to match the block). That’s it - there are no questions to ask it’s that simple. Literally everything else stays the same. If you have a question then don’t ask it because you’re making it up, its a nonissue. No need to ask about EJ25 ECU or trans or front seats or tail lights or windshield wipers...etc.

Replace the line or verify the source of the leak, maybe it’s something else and it’s getting the hose wet but that’s not the root cause. www,car-part.com for used parts and usually great prices, anywhere will ship, get one from a non-rust prone area. A picture would be most helpful. Even looking up the Subaru factory part online to find the exploded view daigram would help then post that or a link to it.

Subarus have more than two final drive ratios, that’s just all you’re realistically going to find in that vehicle. yes axles will be the same up to 2004 for OBW, Legacy and Baja (and Forster and Impreza that same year or later.)

For a 1999 OBS you can use the following engines. Any legacy or Impreza 1999-2001 2.2 liter You can use the following EJ25s if you also get the exhaust manifold with it - then it bolts right up and plugs in. 1999 Forester or Impreza 2000-2004 any EJ25 You may have to swap the drivers side cam sprocket and crank sprocket but it’s super easy and you just use the one off the original engine. There are two style sprockets but they’re interchangeable, very simple don’t let it scare you. Interference engine so you should be installing a timing belt kit anyway so it’s no extra work but easy either way. Timing belt tensioner and pulleys should be replaced, those engines usually bend valves if any of those components fail. You can even use 2005 if you ignore the variable valve stuff. 1998 and earlier you migrate the 99 intake manifold harness onto the new engine and it’ll basically run it, propping the throttle open can ghetto the car last idle issues and then move on from there as needed.

Excellent.

For the transmission: You may be going from a 3.9 rear diff to a 4.11 so you’ll also need the matching rear differential if you’re changing final drive ratios. I’m not sure if 1993 rear axles install in 2005+ rear diffs. The transmission axles also changed in 2005 so you’ll need axles as well and I’m not sure if they install in your existing hubs or not as 2005’s also start bolt on wheel bearings. So you might need knuckles as well or try to Frankenstein some axles. I think The rear driveshaft length is also different in Phase II transmissions so you’ll need the driveshaft or have yours shortened (or lengthened)? If you get a 2004 model then your axles slide right onto the transmission. They change in 2005.

You can drop the “SOHC” as that’s meaningless for subarus. You can install DOHC engines and heads in your current vehicle withiut changing the ECU for instance. Year/engine/vehicle is what matters here. 05+ are drive by wire. You want to avoid models with immoblizers. I’m not sure when they start but it’s 2005 or shortly afterward I thought. In general yes it’s just as you said - ECU, wiring harness and engine gives you everything that runs the engine except drive by wire and immobilizer.

Yes there are issues. You can’t swap those easily. The wiring is different so swapping ECUs is pointless. You’d have to do a complete wiring conversion or install the 96 EJ22 and work around the idling and check engine light issues. The idle controllers are different and problematic but you can work around it. Some people have given up frustrated and others do it or jut deal with it. So yeah it can be done but if

I replace them without removing any bolts or nuts, except you have to remove the lock nut to get the boot over the tie rod.. I avoid removing the outer tie rod due to sometimes being difficult to remove, may only be helpful in the rust belt 1. Jack up vehicle 2. Loosen lock nut 3. Turn inner tie rod and it’ll come out while pushing the outer tie rod and tire “away” as you turn it. Mark parts locations relative to each other and count number of turns or measure to try and retain alignment. Theoretically turning that inner tie rod might move grease around but I doubt it matters. “$30 to ship” or “$30 shipped”?

Really depends where its starting from. Hard to tell if it’s really starting there or possibly has issues inside the inner wheel well or somewhere which you’ll never easily contain without extensive work. Rust starting from under/outside is likely more problematic due to salt where inside rust starting from a leaky trunk may be less benign. My tractors get rust from being outside in the elements but never see salt so the rust takes decades to cause problems. I have zero rust holes even close in my Kubota, can’t dream of having a Subaru like that. Might get lucky but usually that stuff ends up being worse than you want. Ideally it’s cut out. That’s a seriously substantial job and I hope you and this person realize what you’re getting into and agreeing to. It’s a lot of work - cutting, forming and welding. Then you gotta deal with paint - preparing blending and painting is also extensive work done correctly. You probably don’t want a $500 MACO spray. You could attempt a simple repair now and just deal with it if it comes back quick.

I was betting you wouldn’t get it. They can take a bit to get off even when you have 6-12” of leverage via the wiper arm, without all that leverage you’ve got nothing. It’s going to take aggressive application to get enough side to side walking on that thing. As the nut is tightened it’s a press fit into the tapered/splined shaft and they can sometimes be hard to remove. Do yourself a favor and drill or cut or use a nut splitter to get the thing off. You can even get little disc cutting attachments for a regular hand drill. They’re handy and cheap. Ive got a much smaller and thinner disc id use in this case and I’m not recommending this one but for illustration: https://www.ebay.com/i/162717216150?chn=ps&dispItem=1&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F162717216150%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D162717216150%2526targetid%253D376379061791%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9009448%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D962079493%2526adgroupid%253D50351807200%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-376379061791%2526abcId%253D1129816%2526merchantid%253D108332737%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMI_63L7s-g1wIVQkCGCh26Vg59EAQYAiABEgJUzfD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1353006342749 for $8 or less you can do it right and have an additional tool in the box. Similarly a grinding stone in a drill bit would work but take longer and make a bigger mess.