idosubaru

People frequently misdiagnose engine issues for transmission issues. Are you positive it’s the transmission? *** is the AT light flashing 16 times at start up? Check for a dented transmission pan. *** “Fault 1” is not an OBDII code. They are four digit codes. Sounds like you have an engine issue and something is wrong with your reader, engine or the person reading the code. Id check the timing belt timing marks immediately. Interference engine. Engine should get new pulleys and tensioner and probably a belt too after you fix this issue.

You need better diagnosis. What exactly was run low on fluid and how do you know for “certain” it was the rear diff? Just based on previous owners words? Those are usually worth about 62 cents, convince us otherwise! Lol It’s probably torque bind, or mismatched trans and rear diff final drive ratio. If it is the diff just get one shipped they don’t fail enough to make them worth much so if you are desperately short on local parts just pay up and have one shipped. I’ve got them, yards have them, others on here have them. And ideally you keep a complete set of retainers, guys and case so the gear mesh is all retained. Otherwise ask for a complete set of used guts and try and set it up yourself. It’s eiter a 3.7 or a 3.9 final drive.

One also has to remember that “talk”, “interest”, “offer”, “showing up”, “”showing up with full offer cash in hand” are decreasing levels of participation. Each of those is a far cry from “full value cash in hand”. When there’s a smoking hot deal I show up with cash in hand waving it at people. That rarely happens with old gen subarus. I have been “talked to” or “offered” something for my subarus this year. I think 2 or 3 times but none were what I’d call serious and I would have never remembered them outside of this thread.

Also the EJ22 has single port exhaust and not dual port like that EJ25, did you swap manifolds or something else?

Slow down and diagnose before more guessing and mindlessly dooming and pulling engines. 1. Piston slap 2. Timing tensioners - they can fail and only make noise under load and not exhibit any symptoms when looking visually. I’ve seen some only make noise when accelerated/high rpm/under load. 3. Front diffs “tick” and “peck” when started without oil. 4. Valve train 5. Accessory, alternator bearings. 6. The lower engine cover easily bends and can make noises against the flywheel,TC, but that wouldn’t be the case here. Do 2005s have the active valve stuff? 2006s have it, and EJ22s do not.

Yep, that’s basically what I’ve used though the ones I’ve used were silver (aluminum?) so not the same exact brand.

Type in “2005 front Outback axle” and *filter by used* and *sort by price*. One problem is some only show pictures of the car so you’d have to ask about about the inner joint being green (to verify OEM) and the other have significant rust so inspect pictures carefully on a full screen or ask the seller. A little effort but given that’s a 100% success rate and avoids the dealer it’s well worth it. I’ve gotten more than one before to avoid the hassle in the future. free shipping on eBay and all yards now ship on www.car-part.com too so you don’t have to look locally. Yes subarus have always been the same left and right for decades.

Wow. Tried to steal it? Could demand be the same but supply is lower?

they're all over ebay for $35-$40 with free shipping then reboot it. dealer is roughly $200

i've seen that done before as well with saran wrap.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136547-ea82-er27-ticking-tod-hydraulic-valve-lash-hla-noise-diagnose-and-repair/

The inner boot has to be removed to replace the outer boot so presumably it should also have new grease in it when reassembled. I'd just get another used OEM axle if I were paying someone to do it. Inner joints can click as well, they are typically more noticeable when accelerating from a stop, up a hill, while turning sharply. where the outer joints tend to sound the same only depending on turning. usually you can tell an inner because it's a different sound, it's more muffled and less high pitched, and i sort of want to say (but i've never paid close attention) they often aren't as high a frequency - like a "slower" kind of clicking...ah forget it, i can't think how to describe it!

Unfortunately, I've taken them into the store and matched them up. Tried to find them and start a thread about part numbers for them, but never got any traction.

No idea what that is.

www.car-part.com used OEM axle and you're done wasting time on junk axles for life. replacements are easy - get a used Subaru axle for $15 - $40. ideally you reboot it or at least make sure the boots are in good shape and not showing signs of fatigue cracking. they're nearly a guaranteed last the life of the vehicle and make purchasing aftermarket axles a terrible idea. 1. is it aftermarket? if it is then there's no telling. those pieces of trash can fail any time they please. i've had two brand new axles blow to pieces within 50 miles. 2. if it's OEM they're fine - they'll continue to click and progressively get worse and then click while going straight. if you can pack grease up into the joint by hand i've typicallly had the noise go away or dissipate. but without a boot it slings all out and you're back to the same place in 100 miles or less. They'll degrade very quickly if you drive around sand, gravel, or areas that treat winter roads with product other than just salt/chemicals - some areas use aggregate or something. but i've also made a 1,000 mile trip home after driving the sand roads of southern georgia with my axles sounding like a climbing roller coaster. i've never had an OEM axle fail so i don't know how long or typical life but in my experience they're extremely robust and not prone to failure.

You can use any 16" Legacy, Outback, Baja, Impreza, Forester wheel you want except newer STi's www.car-part.com craigslist this forum other subaru forums You need a 5x100 bolt pattern Which is all those listed above and the vast majority of Subaru wheels over the past very long time so there's tons out there. You can not use SVX, Tribeca, or STi's past a certain date like 2008 or something, but Tribeca's aren't 16" and I don't know what STi's are. The only other issue is your wheels have to be large enough to fit over the brake calipers. Most (or all?) 15" wheels won't fit, but 16" is verified above by ezapar so you're golden on Subaru 16" wheels.

Ah that's why the fluid looks red! I thought maybe he was using some red MT fluid or something.

One of the wheel bearing rollers could maybe fall out if the bearing assembly was beat up trying to remove it? Post a picture? 2008 front ABS sensor picture: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/99kAAOSwvD5Z5664/s-l1600.jpg

all if the bearing assembly bolts and the axle nut are removed right?

Can you post a picture? What size is the bolt - 10, 12, or 14mm? Are the parts part of the engine - ?

Subaru XT's got the MPFI NA EA82's.

$3,500 +\- $500 but not just selling it locally With mileage that low it’s possible to get high and unexpected prices. But low mileage is an odd and small niche so it won’t be predictable and very unlikely to get that locally or even in your state except by luck. Loyales aren’t novelty and having engine work could cause some buyers to move on but someone will pay more for the low mileage. I’d love to see a nice Subaru stay here or another good Subaru group but eBay is where you’ll get the low mileage niche addicts.

it's only 2 bolts and easily accessed, so maybe worth cleaning as a first attempt and checking vaccuum hose connections while you're there. may want to have a gasket on hand before you pull it. but there are lines and solenoids involved as well, but I'm not familiar with them.

that's a CV pin almost certainly. it even looks "deformed" around where the outer stub/inner CV interface would be on both sides, giving it a symmetric deformation.

1. Does putting it in FWD alleviate the issues? 2. Does it only happen around turns or after turns? 3. Maybe it’s torque bind? Go drive in a circle in a large parking lot and see if it does it. 4. Do all the tires match? 5. Are any of the CV boots broken or are any f them aftermarket axles?