idosubaru

I’d probably “sign on”. And maybe for 2 as well. How reliable - what’s the track record on their last builds? So they know what they’re doing? (I’ve never heard of them so I’m not trying to be a dork) EA or EJ and what style? What does “sign on” mean? Pay in full up front? Partial? Non-refundable? The estimate is likely a low side (meaning it won’t be cheaper) - if it ends up at $600 are we still on the hook? How much is shipping? usually want a third party shipper who then distributes - that’s not always simple and probably needs to be someone everyone can trust? What’s the lead time because these kind of projects typically get stretched out. for me personally it won’t matter but most consumers won’t want to wait, they may not have the car when it’s all said and done if it takes awhile. What then?

Hmmm. Have you ever used adapters? An adapter would allow length variations for cramped quarters. Kind of like sockets - having one or two socket lengths would be limiting. I’m usually only chasing threads not making new ones, maybe the answer is more along the lines of making a bolt into a chaser so I’m not limited to taps?

Google was flooded with machinists work, etc. When tapping a hole that's deeper than the length of a tap - you need whatever is holding the tap to be smaller than the diameter of the hole you're tapping so it can go down into the hole and reach the threads. Some tap sockets do not appear to be small enough to do that....

Throwing catalytic converters at a P0420 is an expensive guess. I would diagnose further...and then ignore the check engine light, but we don't have emissions here so it doesn't matter.

there are like two different styles/kits - I don't know if it's manual trans verses automatic or maybe autos can vary this one worked in my 2002 but it's a 6 cylinder Outback, though I think they're the same. you should verify but i think this would have the parts you need: https://www.amazon.com/Victory-Lap-ND-34SOL-Solenoid-Repair/dp/B0031HMS7C/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1512400326&sr=1-5&keywords=starter+kit

I would think you should be able to get a pulley for it. Post in the parts wanted forum. +1 basically have to *try* to be a bafoon to get two pumps out of this.

There's two different hub height water pumps. Maybe yours is set up for the shorter one but has the longer pump?

Look at *volume* first, not necessarily tank size and PSI. Find the CFM of the tools you think you'd buy - and get a compressor rated a little more than the highest CFM you'll use. Like look them up at Tractor Supply or wherever you'd buy your tools and see what CFM they use. Then buy all Milton high flow connectors for all your fittings. They're cheap and well worth it - they greatly improve flow and performance. Just for example from TSC: Sand blaster 5 CFM https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/jobsmart-abrasive-blast-cabinet Spray gun 8CFM: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/ingersoll-rand-hvlp-gravity-feed-spray-gun Glass etching - I don't know what that is. So you'd size for the 8 CFM spray gun and want like 10 for some margin. And even more if you think you'll upgrade tool capabilities in the future. If you ask for a compressor this year are you going to want more tools for birthday/christmas in the future? What CFM's are those? Tank size just reduces cycle time. If you're going to be pounding an air tool for 15 minutes on end that uses a lot of CFM then you'll want a bigger tank to reduce cycling time. Mobility is a question too - the larger units aren't mobile if that matters to you - like construction sites you typically want portability, but in that case just size this thing to your needs and get a small cheap pancake for light duty construction, etc. Noise is sometimes a factor depending on your work area and sensitivity.

I wouldn't waste my time replacing the ignition. Remove starter and disassemble and swap out contacts. If you can remove the starter, getting the contacts swapped will be cake. It's super easy but could probably google it. if you're intimidated by it you could get a used starter for chump change and swap it and then play with the old starter/contacts at your leisure. www.car-part.com Get an FSM for that car, they're far superior to the haynes manuals. Not sure they detail the starter disassembly but seems like it should and they're a fantastic resource anyway. They're free online if you go looking for them.

ah a 2017 BRZ that certainly changes things. is it still under warranty? i think you posted this in the wrong forum - this needs to go in the correct Newer Generation forum, maybe more people will see it?

this - i've done it like 100 times, no big deal. a little squirts out and then done. you can try to wrap with shop towels/etc to contain most of it.

You need a punch to tap the pins out of the cv axles in the trans. Tap pins and the axle slides right off the trans. The cvs onjy align one way when reinstalling. Look at grooves and you can get it right the first time. The two holes have to line up and they only line up one way - so they can be 180 degrees off. Otherwise. It’s fairly straight forward for a trans swap. Nothing overly tricky - but it’s a sizable job and working under tha car or pulling the entire lump. Separating engine and trans can take a bit. But work your way around the bell housing slowly increasing the gap with screwdriver, chisel, pry bar. Engine will need lifted/supported up a little bit off the crossmember for clearance and angle to get the trans to slide back and out. You can also pull the engine and trans together with an engine lift. Have plenty of ceiling it can come out high and angled. Otherwise yeah not much to it - exhaust, CV axles, rear drive shaft, disconnect connectors, shifter linkage and speedo cable. You can remove the trans without disconnecting the axles from the knuckles but it’s a bit wonky. With trans ready to come out - pull back slightly and slide one cv off the trans stub. Just tap the pin out (3/16” punch) Then maneuver trans such that you can pull the other axle off as well. Tricky working under the car, taming the large awkward trans but it can be some if you want to avoid pulling the CVs.

In general a Subaru only needs the crank pulley bolted on, that’s it. You don’t need Anything else. The key isn’t necessary at all unless you’re planning on installing the bolt too loose. 3 foot pipe over socket, crank down the bolt and the crank pulley will not come off. I’ve repaired tons of these - mangled cranks, keys, pulleys from pulleys that weren’t installed right enough. Just clean up the metal shavings, make sure the sprocket isn’t damaged such that it’ll damage the timing belt, massage until pulley sits flush and bolt it on. If you have an older gen with distributor, where you want to be able to set the timing off the crank then just stick any small bolt/wooden dowel, coat hangar, etc - through the dowel pin holes to line up the crank pulley. Sure if you want the key and H6 cover and get it all perfect then have at it but they are not necessary. Maybe my phone isn’t showing the whole thread but I don’t see any pictures or info. Don’t know what vehicle you’re working on or trying to do it what happened? I have no idea what you mean by “boss” and other words you’re using. Crank pulleys don’t have orings although EZ H6s have a cover that maybe had an oring. It’s not necessary or requires. It yeah replace it if you want.

replace the starter contacts. They’re cheap and easy. This isn’t likely to be a key ignition issue, those don’t commonly have issues. Best to avoid aftermarket starters, contacta are cheaper, easy, and end result is more reliable.

The ignition is installed with bolts that the hea shears off of when installed. So you have to drill them out to remove the ignition. Would it be easier to swap the entire steering column, haha, if you skmt want to drill? I have a 2003 outback im scrapping if the ignitions/keys are hard to come by.

So the difference is between Impreza rear and legacy rear, not FWD and AWD right?

Should be able to compare any older gen Subaru for a ballpark idea. Good. If you’re making changes then look for and be around people who are exceptionally healthy in every regard, not just one area of life.

Prices out west can be a lot higher than elsewhere but you should have some idea of prices since you’ve probably been lookin at adds right? What you win them with is what you win them to. Be yourself In general if a car makes a woman walk or makes her stay she’s not worth it IMO. If the car is representative of something else, then face the facts and do something about that rather than deciding what color bandaid to cover it up with. Figure on very roughy $250 to replace a wheel bearing.

Those should be the same rear rotors. 96-99 GTs are different from 00-04 are different from 05+, and it’s not even that simple. Maybe you’re seeing later GT references and assuming it applies to the 90s GTs? I have an 03 H6 if you want the front or rears off of it. In some cases you can swap your existing rear caliper onto H6 rear brackets and rotors, larger brakes with no need to swap calipers. Here’s where I usually start for brake interchanges: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631

Do not replace the injector, your results are not a diagnosis, or telling. Injectors rarely fail. It’s just free and easy to test by swapping them so I suggested it. check the compression like GD said.

terminology like "X gen" is confusing IMO, year is easier. And are you looking for upgrades, future maintenance items, or aesthetics? No matter what year it is, the front struts and front rotors and calipers will swap.

Got it. Thanks again. Staying ER27 probably does make sense.

I see different business models, not gouging or naivety. And I see two highiy respected persons I’m usually hoping reply to my questions! I’d prefer options be explained, given recommendations, and I choose, but that doesn’t often work in the business or customer world. When I try I to explain Subaru options to people I’m helping I often get blank stares and realize they really can’t and don’t want to decide. So I have too. I appreciate Gloyales attention to finances but understand GDs model, which is common in urban areas. Customers and scaling force decisions about cost, approaches, and the paradox of choice of customers unfamiliar with automotive world.

Run a quality recommended synthetic and Wix or OEM filters. There’s not much reason not to, but reality looks more like this: If you change it frequently, it doesn’t matter. Use synthetic if towing, or racing, or will be running it low on oil, or will run it overheating, or want extended change intervals, or will exceed change intervals for other reasons. Oil loss and overheating are significant possibilities on older vehicles. That captures why some run 300k with whatever cheap oil is on sale and others have failures with synthetic. quarter million mile reliaibiiity is heavily weighted towards checking oil level, frequency, and application. average daily driver EAs were not blowing up left and right in the 80s and 90s when the majority of people never knew the difference. Most old gen subarus on the road were probably run for decades in the 80s and 90s on conventional oil and random aftermarket filters. The differences now will come down to which ones had oil leaks, overheating, hard use, etc.

You can frankemotor them which increases compression and folks have said they start approaching 190hp. EJ22 heads on those blocks will bump power. GD says to install the sohc pistons in the sohc block with the sohc heads. Then add delta cams. Lightweight pulleys are readily available.