idosubaru

Hmm. I would have assumed the imp belt would work too. Did you check to see if the sprockets have the same Part numbers between leg and imp? 05 is a transition year oddball between 04 and 06. Ive seen subaru supply the wrong part when searched by VIN on 05s. just to be clear and get basics out of the way since we don’t know any history or story: are they positively 2005 parts, maybe they’re 04? you’re positive it’s too tight? Did you remove the lower idler to install?

oh yeah that lower lateral bolt to remove the rear hub is going to be insanely rust welded in place, those things shear off like it snows up north. try to get the entire arms with it so you don't need to deal with that bolt.

Price - depends on condition and rust. $500. $1,000 if it's a low mileage southern rust free spectacle of awesome. they're not worth much in running condition around these parts. No way would I fix that engine - I'd replace it. No telling how badly it was overheated and they're an enormous job compared to the easy 4 cylinder Subaru headgasket jobs. They almost always start with very mild symptoms and progress, I've seen them take over a year to get worse, go months between overheats, only overheat in the summer with A/C on, etc - the smoking and symptoms here suggest this thing was let go or limped along for more than just a little bit. i wouldn't trust it, particularly with the debacle of ajob those heads are. Those AT's are stout, I wouldn't worry about it much. It's the MT's you need to worry about. Clutch job $$$$, input shaft bearings, synchro's, and torque bind that has no mitigating options, you're basically dead on the water with the MT if it happens.

That’s what we do with heads and you should with heads as well. Great to get the block finish right as well but I’ve never done it and wonder if there’s concerns about getting debris inside critical areas during the process. I guess it would just be the oil supply channel to the heads. Prefill hole with something to keep debris from propagating? GD or someone else will know.

The Napa in my town can mix up according to your paint code. Call around until you find a store that does the same. You can also order them online. Same with two stage clear coat. Comes in a can. A mechanism punctures the separate checkials inside and mixes them into a hardening clear coat that’s a single use can. Probably only need that if you’re doing the bumper or hood where bugs and stones at 80mph aren’t going to treat cheap paint well.

rip the most cancerous part off and bend the rest out of the way. it’s possible, but I’ve never come across any debilitating backing plate issues. I’ve also never seen the magic combination of a northeast vehicle in showroom condition with only one or three rust issues, each worth addressing to FSM standards. the ones I see that bad have other issues that are going to be more problematic in time than the backing plates. I guess when I do find that unicorn I’ll take care of it proper. Www.car-part.com and buy one from a rust free area. South or west. What year and side rear do you need?

HLA = hydraulic lash adjusters which means valve clearance “isn’t” adjustable. Some EJ22s are HLa and some have solid adjustable valves.

Has to be a 96-98 - they’re all single port exhaust with plugs above valve covers. 95s are all dual port exhaust. 96 is noninterference 97-98 are interference and have adjustable valves Check valve clearance

you could just disconnect the sway bar end links and see how you like it. it depends what kind of daily driving you're doing. if you're doing in town, low mileage, straight easy driving that's probably easier to get away without a sway bar than high speed interstate traveling on twisty mountain roads. some older generation subaru's didn't come with rear sway bars and they performed fine. and newer generation sway bar end links commonly fail and need replaced but give no major symptoms. so you could roll with no sway bars easily depending on driving conditions and your personal preference. i haven't heard of anyone doing this but could you try and get good at just removing the end links before and after you off road? i prefer spacers like you have over king springs as the strut spacers give more options and never need replaced or swapped or whatever like springs. although i did get the slightly stiffer baja turbo rear springs for the same exact vehicle as you for a little extra stiffness/height but I tow and carry a lot of weight and needed to replace the springs anyway. with spacers you can remove them, swap to another vehicle, do whatever you want with struts springs and it's all easy. springs are more limiting, harder to remove, swap, move to another vehicle, etc.

if it's not rusty buy it and swap in another engine. they do leak, though they tend to start at much higher mileages than EJ25's and it would seem they less frequently have this issue. otherwise they're great candidates for an easy and reliable 300,000 miles, basically all they need for 300k are: replace the serpentine pulley bearings ever 60k (30 minutes and $20 in parts, super easy). valve cover and oil cooler gaskets. plugs, air filter, oil changes.

Either way all EA82s have timing belts. For good preventative maintenance Replace all the pulleys and belts. While the belts are off I personally reseal the oil pump, replace the cam seals, cam cap orings and crank seal. Timing belts need removed to address any of those items. I prefer Subaru seals if possible, particularly on older gen. Ive had aftermarkets EA82 crank seals not fit well and leak.

That would be an EA82 here in the US and yes they all have timing belts.

Oh yeah definitely alignment first, I was unsure how substantial the alignment was back there. Odd for both to do the same thing though.

Do 85’s have a read memory mode for the ECU? Try that. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor? Check ignition timing? Check timing belts?

Read OBDII codes Check valve clearance unless you’re positive it’s an HLA engine

Bushings Struts There’s not much alignment in those rear suspensions but someone should comment specifically since that would be the first question. Have you driven the car 100k and then last month this rates happening or what? Is it rusty? the tops of the rear tires will lean in towards the car if the rear crossmember is starting to fail due to rust. This is the one thing that would most easily affect both sides simultaneously. It would be odd for two struts or wheel bearings to fail in the same way and at the exact same time.

I don’t know interchanges on 05+ but id expect 06-09 to all be be interchangeable. Subaru is always using different part numbers, they change them all the time. Most parts that interchange don’t have the same part number. With www.car-part.com you can have one of the cheapest ones in the country shipped to you.this makes it easier as you can get the exact part you need, not take a chance, and still get a great price if that’s your main motivation.

Good job. Look for metallic flakes in the oil. They almost always have the original cross hatching in the cylinders, probably forgetting one but don’t think I’ve ever seen one that hasn’t except for damage from blown blocks - busticated rods and pistons.

yes you’d want some faith in the product and many people would stand back and watch first but this was a discussion (so it was thought) about companies that already make diffs - modified diff chunks and diff mods are common enough it’s not an unknown abyss being discussed.

Did you pull the other cylinder head and check it or are you just swapping one head? I'd be checking the other head. www.car-part.com and see what interchange as a starting point pictures on ebay and google image search can show the stud differences or look up exhaust manifold and intake manifold gaskets and compare the bolt pattern. +1. engines with abnormal overheating symptoms like cracked heads or wavy timing covers, or melted knock sensors are good at loosing rod bearings shortly after a head job.

got it. good to know if it's one i think i'll use again. in general i'll need this to chase threads, nothing crazy. i'm in a rural area/state and often can't get stuff like this easily. and something like this is likely to be a one-off tool, so i'd rather use the taps i have.

flamed? You’ll get the opposite response here. Lots of us have lifts. make sure the H6 doesn’t have blown head gaskets. They will intermittently overheat or only overheat under very specific conditions. So they end up on used car lots with issues that are hard to test for since they’re intermittent. Signs of recent cooling system work - new coolant, cap, radiator, thermostat, or signs of bubbling over around the overflow reservoir, would cause me to hesitate. Good luck and enjoy!

Could the battery have been disconnected and it’s in a relearning phase?

aftermarket axles can vibrate when idling. heat shields vibrate all the time on nearly any vehicle, particularly common in rust prone areas. checking both front axles - if they don't have green inner cups or look "new" then they're aftermarket and that's probably the cause. you can post a picture and we'll be able to tell. if you need axle boots - make sure you reboot Subaru OEM axles (green inner cups) rather than replace the axle. Shops like to just swap the axle because it's faster and same profit but the original axles will last the life of the vehicle if you just reboot/regrease and they're better quality.

probably depends whether it’s phase I or II EJ22 heads. there were EJ compression calculators via excel floating around online which might be possible to know as well.