idosubaru

Get one without extant headgasket issues that way you know it hasn't been overheated/run low on coolant. 1. FB engine 2. H6 engine 3. EJ25 I prefer for sale by owner so i can verify no blown headgaskets. the most likely ones to end up on the dealer lots are trade ins from the first sign of ominous issues or repair quotes. and some of them fail in such a way they're hard to diagnose and can go weeks or months between symptoms - making them prime candidates for trading in, ending up on lots for sale and you get hosed. the H6's have fewer headgasket issues and they happen at higher mileages.

disconnect alternator and see if the drain stops. disconnect battery as well and make sure the battery isn't weak/problematic? have you tried testing for the drain? disconnect terminal and place a meter between the terminal and battery post and measure how many milliamps of drain it has? (keep in mind that leaving the door/trunk open will cause increased draw through interior lights or other interior items that work with key off like automatic seat belts in an XT6). then start pulling fuses until it drops - issue will be on that circuit.

the JDM's are a pretty decent bet and the 2004 and earlier ones are inexpensive now. even if i had to replace it twice for $750...which i've never had to do...it's still only $1,500 for a crap ton of miles. compared to what you current have - an engine that's nearly guaranteed to have been run hot and with extant headgasket issues, it's not any significant difference. Ignoring the EJ25D for a moment - a properly done EJ/EZ headgasket has great success rates and mileages. a proper resurface, OEM gaskets has high success rates and GLoyale, GD, and others doing lots of these are giving that a thumbs up. IMO logically speaking - worrying about a 2% failure rate in a 15+ year old car is a bit over the top. i wouldn't do ARP's. on a specialized high performance, ground up, high dollar unlimited budget like PERRIN projects - sure, but that's not what this is. but maybe some of the other guys who have done tons can comment more specifically.

the 7/16" thing is so money. you're going to do it and think "wow why did i even bother researching and asking about anything else?". timeserts are better than helicoil though they're essentially the same thing in terms of concept and approach. helicoils work fine for most, if not just about all, subaru issues and they're used countless times for head studs. Start with timeserts if everything is equal to you and the 7/16" thing isn't appealing. but if availability or some other compelling issue presents itself I wouldn't worry about it, the helicoils are working thousands of times over on Subarus.

On an EZ30 H6 with no timing issues or noise? nah they're timing chains and last the life of the vehicle. if it's dirty or you suspect poor maintenance then maybe replace the timing chain tensioners. EJ25's can be done in the vehicle. unbolt the engine from the crossmember and lift up the side you're working on as far as you can for good access to clean/prep/install. it is not ideal and prone to mistakes but it is doable.

get the mating surfaces smooth and clean clean the threads of the intake manifold bolts and holes if they're corroded terribly (common). use OEM intake manifold gaskets with no additional sealant. install them dry. clean the threads of the intake manifold bolts and holes if they're corroded terribly (common).

You won’t. You’re done with that issue. Very common wear item. You could probably see how badly the old one was arced or warn? “Ha ha those poor donkeys won’t be able to see this fastener....” ...assembly line jokes.....

Why wouldn’t the transmission still function? It should be fine unless it was run and revved chaotically after the line broke and ran out of fluid. Can you post a picture or a link to a picture of this fitting? There’s a metal cylinder with two fittings inside the radiator plastic tank. This cylinder lays unseen in the ATF inside that plastic tank. Those fittings pass through the plastic tank and are tightened via the nut on the outside. Are you saying this one is threaded on the inside? If you remove the radiator you might have easier access. You could repair this by removing the radiator. Then carefully prying up all the metal tabs and separating the bottom tank from the core. Then repair or replace the cooling lines. But no one except the most practically obsessed or who’s time is worth about 5 cents per hour does this. The metal fittings in the radiator should never move or come loose. That never happens. If it was damaged during the accident they should have just replaced the radiator. Those fittings integrated into the radiator and aren’t typically repaired or replaced or ever touched. Maybe it was bent and they bent it back into position and fatigues the metal and it sheared off. Maybe they did some nonstandard repair?

I'd get a new radiator if you can't get it. How positive are you there's nothing compromised internally because of, or from, this issue?

Ujoint will cause lumpy steering wheel movement through the range and the wheel can feel loose or like it's hanging up at particular points. Look at the ujoints and you may see play or shiny metal where it's wearing when the play causes metal on metal rubbing. Sometimes they're hard to tell until you remove them. They're easily replaced. loosen bolts and it'll slide down the shaft far enough to come off - hard part is maintaining steering wheel alignment.

Simple - he wasn't talking about your vehicles. There are thousands of EJ's without bearing failures - he's not talking about those. There are also gobs of EJ engines that lose rod bearings, he's talking about that failure mode. There's no particular vehicle being discussed or taken action on, a wide range of years, and there's a lot of dealing in the past which is always influenced and revised over time and can never be confirmed. This thread is a big cloudy fog ripe for miscommunication and almost zero chance of quantifiably significant ends. which is fine - but i wouldn't assume to much from it. Sure many people are fine with cars making noises, no big deal. If someone comes on here asking about noises then presumably it's an issue and they want to inspect, confirm, or investigate.

Fix the fuel leak immediately. Find the exhaust leak and fix it if it's in front of any O2 sensors. In the end it doesn't matter and the P0420 is so common that proving it was from a past fuel leak on a 16 year old car in the rust belt with no known history is a tall order.

1. The symptoms didn't change AT ALL with the rack and pump change? 2. the power steering belt is attached, properly tightened and turning? 3. Is the car running and driving properly with no engines issues? 4 . a separating crank pulley will cause all the accessories to slow down and perform poorly - the steering and the alternator so you'd have charging issues/battery light as well. describe exactly what is happening. never has power steering ever? or it comes and goes - describe? What do you mean by "especially at low speeds"? any noises? any vibrations?

You said non coil repair options, so I assumed you didn’t want timeserts. Timeserts are the same as helicoils, both work and both can be problematic depending on their use. For a simple exhaust stud either should be fine but both are pricey. I’ve shipped my kits to friends before who then ship them back. Haha. But yeah that’s why the 7/16” option is perfect. Easier, quicker, no drilling, success rate in exhaust studs is basically 100%.

Very common. All subarus for decades, every model, every engine, use the same stud threads so the approach has been the same for decades and thousands and thousands of subarus. Helicoil/timesert or do the cheaper/easier no drill 7/16” repair, theres a detailed thread about it, go there.

Not worth repairing as easy as they are to swap and considering they never fail a used one just makes sense. Parts will be costly or you’ll be searching used in which case we’re back to just buying another diff. Also could that debris compromise the diff, ring and pinion or bearings? So repair but maybe have future issues again? If I found that in an engine I wouldn’t expect replacing the one bad part to be a good option. That being said they’re small and easily disassembled. Just take it apart and look at it. If there’s that much debris it’s not like you’ll have a hard time finding the compromised parts and wear areas. Ring and pinion you’ll have to set backlash. If its just the diff chunk you can swap those easily and they’re not ratio specific so you can use any EJ diff chunk as long as it’s the same style axle on the receiving cups. Bearings - unsure what happens then.

There’s a Parts wanted forum. Www.car.part.com

Reread the last two posts. Rod bearing circus. It’s scrap. Timing tensioners and valves can be noisy like rod knock but a quart and a half or two of oil while interstate driving in a New York is as good as a coffin.

Im unsure, google it? The engine and trans combo are so heavy that at idle nothing probably happens and you’re not experiencing symptoms there so just running and looking won’t reveal it. I’d probabky use a jack and some wood blocks to lift the engine and trans at each mount location - namely two engine mounts, and one rear transmission mount. I’d check the center carrier bearing too. (The bearing support the rear driveshaft passes through). Pry on it with a digging part or other beefy object.

Sounds like your diff is hosed. Time to swap in another diff. I’m which case you don’t need to remove the axle right? Yeah the axles can be seriously rust welded into the hubs.good job using a wooden spacer. Hit the axle too hard and it’ll mushroom, damage the threads such that the nut won’t go on and the axle can’t pull through the hub without grinding/filing down the mushroomed end. I was using a three jaw pulled and it shattered the rotor I was pulling against. Whoops. The rear axle splined shafts that go into the rear diff don’t look warn do they? Never seen or heard of that happening but just checking. Subaru rear diff failure is very rare. Almost never happens, I’ve never seen a failed one yet.

1. 1. Like he just said The 7/16” stud swap is amazingly simple. Buy the studs, nuts, and tap and a bottoming tap. As he said - Tap it out and install new studs with no drilling. Could probably get away without the bottoming tap 2. Helicoil or timesert thread repair kits. Pricey and have to drill but otherwise easy and solid. 3. attempt to clean and chase the threads and the stud and hope for the best. Probably a waste of time and not worth the time unless you’re really timid of anything else.

anyone know what symptoms bad engine/trans mounts give? interesting it does it loaded while decelerating but not loaded while accelerating - the trans is loaded in both scenarios. check engine and trans mounts first - i've had them come apart when removed multiple times, if they're in even worse condition then i'd expect symptoms.

I would want OEM headgaskets and probably water pump gaskets. I order parts as needed or get the OEM kit. OEM headgaskets 2 intake manifold gaskets, 2 exhaust manifold gaskets, 2 valve cover gasket, 6 spark plug tube gaskets, crank seal (not included in the kit), water pump gasket(s), oil cooler gasket, PCV valve, a handful of different size orings for the timing covers.

You don't have a FWD fuse on the manual trans. Manual trans doesn't have FWD option, it's not physically possible because of how they're built it's a direct mechanical 4WD connection with no partical ability to interact or interfere. AT's have an electronically controlled clutch pack so you can interrupt that electronically a few ways for FWD options. Including the familiar FWD fuse.

1. can you tell if it's front, center rear, or left, center, right on the vehicle? 2. Are there any vibrations physically - floor board, steering wheel, rear view mirror - when the noise occurs? post a link - make it just the address with no hyperlink or www if needed how sure are you it's identical to yours? i hear people say "it's like this..." frequently and the only similarity is that a noise is being made.