idosubaru

welcome aboard. this is about the most technically astute Subaru, with the least fluff and BS, on the internet. You probably mean the cam seal: Timing belt has to come off to replace that. Ideally the timing belt and idlers are all replaced with an Aisin timing kit (it includes the belt, pulleys, and tensioner). The belt and pulleys can, and do fail, and that's an interference engine so they usually end up with bent valves$$$$ if that happens. Remove drive belts Remove crank pulley Remove timing covers Remove timing belt Remove drivers side and passengers side cam sprockets Replace cam seals Reassemble - preferrably with new timing belt and pulleys and tensioner.

Yep, you got it. Should be a 32mm.

Very typical of EZ engines to use coolant and overheat randomly in this way or not overheat until they're low on coolant. The description you gave is akin 75%+ of the blown EZ headgaskets I've seen and the ones that weren't I'd imagine were driven a long time blown and then had greater symptoms by the time I saw them. That being said - make sure it's not simply loosing coolant and then overheating when it gets too low. rusty EZ engines usually get a rusty lower coolant pipe under the drivers side head or front of the engine. check for OEM working radiator cap and additional leaks. i'd just replace the radiator cap, you'd want a new one after the repair anyway so just do it now to be done with it. make sure the radiator spout where the cap seals and sets isn't compromised. Engine has to be pulled on EZ engines. You can do an EJ in the vehicle, even that has it's downsides but is totally doable. AN EZ engine is a huge timing chain cover blessed lump that would be cumbersome to try and work around in the engine bay. It could probably be done as a circus act but chances of head sealing and timing cover not leaking would all be up in the air.

There won't be (m)any responses because this is like asking how to weld a soup can lid back onto the can before you put in the refrigerator. Subaru exhaust threads are such an easy, routine repair with a 100% success rate, few people spend time on elaborate options. Many of us repair those in 5 minutesand have no idea how many we've done with zero issues. Describing the compelling reason to do a simple job differently might be warranted - whatever circumstance is causing the need for an exotic repair might change the preferred style/brand/model/approach. 1. google 2. stop into a couple of professional machine shops - after perusing google/Dave's suggestion above - and ask them what options you have, what options you've seen and opinions on the particular ones you like. focus on learning a new tooling or technique rather than just repair your current situation otherwise they'll be in "fix your heads" mode and won't understand why you're asking them to weld a soup can lid back onto the can. if you have machine shops specializing in industrial, mining, etc locally like some areas do - try those as well even if they don't do automotive work. they may have good suggestions and first hand experience as they're seeing complicated high dollar repairs of machines and equipment. they might not want to talk if you can't/won't be an end customer and the clock is ticking at $120/hour. 3. a machine shop can also make repair inserts. i've had it done for subaru blocks and heads before. they fabricate a plug that threads into the block/head and has a receiving hole the same threads as the original bolt. i've never done it to exhaust studs. have to be sure you have the additional material available to remove to do this. if the hole is made bigger for a more complicated repair - then the internal clearances are being reduced, which may not be ideal. i've taken blown blocks and heads and drilled enormous holes to find the coolant/oil pages behind them and see how much material i've got to work with. not sure exhaust studs go up far enough to get close to cooling passages.

I’m an ambassador. Familiarize yourself with the program, get online and read Subaru ambasssador suggestions and guidelines. Know that stuff and stay doing it. presumably you were chosen because you listed ways you’re connected to people or connected to Subaru. Leverage those existing pathways and then move on as opportunity presents.

Better description: Did you check diff/trans fluid? What did you find? Has it ever been changed? Does it have an aftermarket front axle? Left/right or center or unsure? Noise - one time clunk, continuous, high pitch or low....turning heads loud or no one else can hear- it annoys OCD people loud? How about when accelerating fast from a start- does it do it? Or accelerating up a steep grade? Loaded noises while accelerating or decelerating are often front diff or inner

Drain diff oil and look for chunks and metallic swirls in oil. Disassemble inner axle joint and see what it looks like? Attach axle to diff and try to rotate axle or diff flange with tools/leverage while holding the other side still and see what you get. Just need to match the final drive ratio. MTs with a 2.2 engine of that era are just about all 3.9 final drive so any 2.2 rear diff from a legacy or Impreza is an option or a 1996 outback MT (only outback that came with 2.2). www.car-part.com Post in the parts wanted forum here.

Www.car-part.com

Yep - replace axle and/or replace/repair diff. This thing got rode to hell. Previous owner hosed the trans. You installed the wrong ratio and continued driving to failure. That binding was also stressing the axles, diffs, and rear driveshaft....all that stuff was strained and probably the original cause of this current issue. Then you split the case and replaced some bearings and swapped a diff...this thing hasn’t had an easy time. The AWD transmissions are fine. They’re just a FWD trans with a few more parts. There’s nothing inherently bad about AWD trans and they’re readily making the same high mileage’s of anything else when properly maintained. Change the fluids and run/rotate proper tires and you’re golden.

Clutch wouldn’t surprise me - not because it matches the description exactly but because customer diagnosis and info isn’t always super accurate. That being said - it does sound ominous. I would drain the trans gear oil and check for bits, chunks and metallic flakes.

injector code. swap injectors again - it’s possible you pulled both and reinstalled back in the same place. Happens often. Otherwise check the wiring from injector to ECU. FSMs are free all over the inter web and would give the exact data but check continuity and resistance from injector plug to ECU plug. ECU is under passengers side front feet carpeting.

Are they a significantly quicker ratio? Theyre 30 years old as well. Last year I had an XT6 rack leaking. Swapped in a used rack - it leaked - got another - it leaked. Aftermaket rebuilds arent likely OEM quality but are a reasonable option.

Car-part.com Post in the parts wanted forum here eBay

Great, very cool. Thanks. But crack that means we got no options!

why is that? i'm having a hard time picturing it. seems like the rack just pushes the tie rod in and out the same on both sides - i guess that's not the case?

I'd love to see a solution to this as well. I'm wondering if the EJ inner tie rods are shortened such that Rack+inner tie rod width is identical to the stock EA rack+inner tie rod width - shouldn't that then make them identical in terms of steering response? Then you just have to shorten the inner tie rods...?

Yeah the rears do need to slip first (have a different relative speed to the “front”), but rear tires should essentially kick in quick. How much are the fronts spinning? Do the rears eventually engage? SVX transmission and wheel bearing failures are common. Be sure to look into those SVX specific topics. Change the ATF and add an ATF cooler.

A quart per tank of gas is not normal. A leak down test may reveal where it’s going - valves or piston rings. Someone well versed in subarus may know if that large amount of oil is one or the other. How many miles have you driven it? I wonder if you could get real lucky and consumption will decrease as you drive it - stuck Rings? Replace the PCV valve. Yes the AWD should work well and it’ll be as good in the snow as the tires that are on it. If you just bought it with these issues then that usually doesn’t mean it has awesome tires on it and they could suck in the snow regardless of 4WD. Check that the rear driveshaft is attached. Is the FWD light on? Does the FWD light work? Is a fuse installed in the FWD holder? Does the AT light work? Does it blink 16 times at start up?

Swap rear diff to match final drive ratio. Swap driveshaft as they’re different lengths. Swap center console if you want it to look right. Pedal assembly Swap cruise control computer if you do want to retain that. Reverse light wiring Monkey with Identifier pin for AT and MT

you can UOA it to see what the data says, maybe not a bad idea if has an unknown history. I’d be aiming for that 10k internal GD talks about and just change at 20k, 30k, 40k, etc.

On various Subaru parts websites you can look up a part and it’ll show it in an exploded view diagram with associated other parts. Look up the diff, driveshaft, cross memeber, suspension stuff and you’ll see the exploded views of all the parts. Post pictures here and we can tell you.

Does Gates list a different belt for Impreza and legacy? What year and model ranges does Subaru say those belts fit if you look it up via the online Subaru Parts Database?

Strut But a better description and info would be really helpful.

on I only meant the localized cancerous flimsy part that’s flopping into the rotor, not the entire backing plate. Only the part at the OD of the rotor will get paper thin and want to wander or flap (it gets so thin) into the rotor. Just rip/cut that part out. I’ve done it, snip it for a minute and done. he found his issue, easy fix for the win !

Hmm. I would have assumed the imp belt would work too. Did you check to see if the sprockets have the same Part numbers between leg and imp? 05 is a transition year oddball between 04 and 06. Ive seen subaru supply the wrong part when searched by VIN on 05s. just to be clear and get basics out of the way since we don’t know any history or story: are they positively 2005 parts, maybe they’re 04? you’re positive it’s too tight? Did you remove the lower idler to install?