idosubaru

You say "misfire" in the title - but that code is an EGR code. Was that a typo and you meant to type "302", or it's a "402" or you have a perceived misfire and "402" or actual misfire - "302" and "402"? 1. swap fuel injectors and see if the misfire stays with cylinder #2 or moves with the fuel injector 2. check valve clearance 3. leak down or compression test like GD said 4. probably not the issue - but make sure the #2 cylinder doesn't have oil in it from the spark plug tube seals leaking I see what you did there! har har har!!

i'd get wagner over centric too. rockauto is a great source for reasonably priced brake pad retaining clips. sometimes they're a couple bucks instead of the $20+ locally.

If the engine has EGR but the intake doesn’t then just cut a small block off plate and bolt it on to the head to seal it or take the EGR tube, thread it into the head, cut it, and crimp and weld it shut. I make a block off plate out of thin metal, use sealant, and bolt it on.

You can also reboot it.

I have a write up that details everything you need to know. 95 EJ22 automatic intake has EGR If you don’t have emissions and don’t care about a benign check engine light you can install any 95-98 EJ22 intake with non EGR and just ignore it. That’s what I do on purpose just to simplify the engine bay.

I’ve seen people (against my recommendations) pad slap shredded rotors where pad rivets or calipers had ground down the rotors with shavings everywhere. I wouldnt recommend that but again, it just doesn’t matter unless the rotors are structurally compromised due to thickness or heat.

I never replace rotors on subarus. It’s pointless. 285k on my OBW, yaaawwwnnn. Rear are Pointless to turn. Fronts only if they vibrate while braking. Even if they are grooved and scored it’s not a big deal. You’ll get 35,000 miles instead of 38,000 miles, an insignificant difference. If they’re grooved, once pads wear in the rotors have a larger effective surface area and one could argue they improve braking due to “larger rotors”, haha. Granted the grooves would need to be perfectly concentric but it’s just an illustration how low grade and ignorant current brake maintenance norms are. what’s the best thing you can do for life long brake maintenance? The answer is a list of things most shops don’t do = dumb. 1. Use high quality grease like SilGlyde or other. Not generic brake grease. 2. Replace the pad retaining clips. Depends on age, propensity to corrosion/rust/damage. I aim for once around 150k +\- 50k. Maybe it’s onjy necessary in the rust belt but I’ve seen pads also hang on built up black ridges too (brake dust, dirt, don’t know) or bent clips from multiple or past pad changes. Do number 1 & 2 (jokes welcome), and Subaru rotors and calipers last 300,000 miles on daily drivers unless you’re really hard on front brakes or they sit too long in the rust belt, etc.

Yeah the three I’ve tried wont work well at all on old gen or new gen. “A joke” is more accurate than my description! They’re a little trickier to install by hand depending on how you did it but not that bad and 100x easier than valve spring compressors I’ve used.

you mean when he built paddle shifters and changed all the coding? that was a fantastic project, but that learning curve is beyond my time constraints!

HA HA HA!!! if i cared about signatures i'd quote that for awhile.

Did you decide to do both engine and trans from the beginning or end up there after assessing the issues? I’ve got a 2003 EZ parts car but all that wiring is probably beyond my time availability, I would be slow at that.

They isuakku have those cracks. Benign. If the car was significantly overheated and limped along forever then they could crack into the water jacket. Otherwise on a normal head they’re so commend one doesn’t ewakky even worry about to

Got it thanks guys! Very good stuff.

runs great, but has a significant intermittent oil leak from rear main or oil pan. If the engine has to come out, newer and easier to find parts sounded nice - sensors, timing idlers etc. For all the work, auto complication, and all the spare XT6 parts I have maybe it makes more sense to keep it stock. Someone years ago on the XT6 forum said they installed an EJ trans in an XT6 and was going to tell me how he did it but I never heard from him again. If that was true I’ve got some EJ/Ez stuff laying around.

Double post

Install an EJ engine into an automatic XT6.

Ah right. Would swapping an EJ engine and EJ automatic be simpler? Driveshaft length difference, maybe different speedo calibration but those are easy.

Nice hit. Would the EJ ECU run with the xt6 TCU or would it need the EJ TCU? Someone years ago on the xt forum said they got an XT6 to run an EJ trans but don’t know exactly what they meant.

Anyone done an EJ swap into an older gen automatic? I want to do it in an xt6 so it’s a 4EAT

Haha “been here before”! Haha love that feeling. That was rust induced? Was it visibly rusted when it was installed?

I cut a slot in an unused socket. Then bolt allthread to it and a cam sprocket to the other end. Lean shoulder into cam sprocket - body weight like he said. Slots give access via needle nose or magnets for the keepers. The spring compressors I’ve tried have all sucked for subarus. Clumsy awkward hard to set up and gotta reset for each valve based on side clearance, etc. DIY/ hand method is way quicker.

rust? that might convince me to move on. could go either way depending on the rest of the condition of the vehicle and how available you are and how much you enjoy - the work. i'm putting a trans in my 285,000 mile OB original engine, and wondering if that was really the best decision based on rust and age. i think i'm mostly repairing it because i destroyed the trans so i hate junking a car due to my mistake!

Are you positive you replaced the correct one? Subaru's can have multiple coolant temp sensors. Such as one for the gauge, one for the cooling fans, and one for the ECU. You want to replace the one responsible for the ECU. 300 rpm's is really low, unless it's just inaccurate when it's at the bottom of the range? IAC's are one of the more problematic parts over time, they are electronic and have moving parts in them. Sometimes they can be cleaned if they are simply sticking due to build up. But I do not know if they'd cause your symptoms, that's not the classic symptoms and I haven't seen it, but that by no means rules it out. Classic IAC issue is the car stalls when you press the brake, come to a stop, or take off from a stop. But I'm sure that can vary. I've never seen one cause the issues you're describing but I'm sure they have various failure modes and the ambiguity of describing symptoms on a keyboard isn't always ideal. Your vehicle easily swaps ECU's - just buy the cheapest one in the country for a few bucks and they're plug and play. And late 80's stuff and 95 stuff you don't even have to pay attention to automatic/manual, the ECU's are interchangeable between them, but I'm not familiar with 90-94 EJ's. www.car-part.com ECU's fail so rarely that new is pointless and used is a great bet. Someone on here may even have one for you.

just make sure you get all the water out and dry them out as the springs and valves can rust i believe, pretty sure i've seen rusty ones in the past.

Why is it apart and being tested? How much leakage? Ideally someone with a lot of significant wdoerjnwc Gloyale tells you what he’d do, I would just assume the valves are dirty and just clean and lap them. Might as well replace the valve stems seals while it’s apart, maybe depending on the reason it’s being worked on as well.