idosubaru

oh right - fairtax has second possibility: 1. readiness monitors i mentioned (if these fail and the shop isn't familiar with 1996 exemptions, which is common, they won't even do a sniffer test) 2. it failed the actual sniffer test - pipe up the exhaust testing actual output. this is usually remedied by a tune up - plugs, wires, filter, O2 sensor, but could be other less likely things too.

;ABS is a nonissue, it's part of the wheel bearing assembly.

That doesn't look immediately alarming - some lateral play i think is normal.

Hands off the computer - why would you want them fo flash it? That would be really weird to keep reflashing a Subaru ECU or need a new one. Someone needs to simply properly diagnose the starting circuit: Sensor - brake pedal or parking selector? Ignition switch Starter relay Maybe someone more familiar with later model components can enlighten the starting circuitry.

1996 legacy's are exempt from emissions readiness monitors - that's state/federal law. The car needs zero work - you just need a competent inspector that knows the laws for 1996 vehicles, most of which are rusted away here in the rust belt so new hires never see them. inspect away and ask them first if they're familiar with 1996 readiness monitor exmeptions first so you're not wasting your time.

i highly doubt it, but i haven't worked on a 2011+ yet. rear bolts are the same passengers and drivers side, and have been used since 2006 Tribeca (which I own one of) and 2010+ legacy/outback:: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2011_Legacy25L-CVT-4WDSedan/BOLT-FLG-M10X30/49301324/901000317.html google shows no mention of left handed bolts in Subaru's, which would be weird considering the number of forums, DIY, and mechanics on Subaru forums. Subaru rotors routinely last the life of the vehicle, even if the outer non mating surfaces are rusty, those are unused surfaces only, it's no big deal to run them 200,000 miles routinely. There's only one issue related to replacing the rear rotors but it's extremely rare and few people have seen it. Vibrating on deceleration from high speeds is front rotors, they can be turned, properly clean/regrease the slides with high quality (not generic) caliper grease to prevent it from happening again. Aftermarket rotors have more issues, probably due to inferior casting processes/materials, and are a downgrade in performance from the OEM rotors. If they're not vibrating you can leave the front rotors and properly grease the pins. If you do replace them, and don't mind slapping a shipping lable on the used ones in the box for the new ones, i'll take them and save them from the land fill.

I got it Dave I know exactly what you mean. The xt6 passengers side tensioner is like the EA82, the rest of the pulleys and drivers side tensioner are like an EJ. My other reply was directed towards the original poster and beating quality.

You never said what you're doing or what car you want to do it too. "It's just headlights and fog lights and power steering"....The way you said that, that's all that's left on the parts car? And I assume it's an xt but it should be clear and what year? But body side wiring harness swaps are generally avoided buy yes they can be and are done if you really want to

This is a 99 2.2 but it's the same as 96-99 phase I stuff I found in the FSM. The middle line from the rear area is the fuel supply from the back. And it's the most inward/interior line going forward. It's hard to see enough in the FSM to trust it but it does show that and it worked.

Replaced some leaky fuel lines. Now I need to reconnect them. I've got six lines under the rear drivers seat area and unsure which ones match up? 3 coming from the rear and 3 from the front. How do I pair up the right ones?

Thanks Dave!

Woah crack you get the bearings out with a gear puller? I've tried wailing with a hammer and i start breaking them before the bearing moves. I wanna run to the garage!

Subaru parts are always good others vary. Where you buy is largely inconsequential - though Napa often has some better parts but often they're carrying the same stuff too. 1. Subaru 2. Install ( have a machine shop) new Japanese bearings in your existing pulleys 3. Gates or others with Japanese bearings We used to recommend theimportexperts on eBay, good prices and you could call them and ask for specific pulleys and they'd put a kit together for you. Then Gates kits were really cheap on Amazon so that's been a go to source of parts for quite a while now. 1. I would guess they probably had a higher failure rate than Subarus but not high enough to deter from OEM prices. 2. One experience is anecdotal and means little by itself. Subaru bearings fail too...if the logic is "only buy parts with 0% failure rates" there's no parts you can buy. So it's comes down to whether or not this is a permanent trend (Chinese parts being a probable indicator) or a percentage kink in the supply chain or China trying to throw the election by inserting inferior parts in Subarus. Lol

Oh yeah right those strange EA82 tensioners. Nice work finding another way and being able to use beatings of your choosing. What ton press gets the normal bearings out? all the XT6's are like EJ bearings and just press out. I used to buy the EA82 kits like 10 years ago they were like $60-$80.

or oil cooler - oil and coolant both have passage through there as well. ?

Yours is a non-turbo right? Subaru never used PCV valves with cooling lines, so mixing wasn't possible for many decades and would be the cause of hesitation from your mechanic (and probably many of us on this forum). Does the FB engine have coolant passing through the PCV valve or associated hoses? A quick glance on the internet seems to suggest that's not the case.

+1 and NICE HIT - can you explain that rebuildable idler thing? the XT6 pulley sets are $400, i'd love to see what you've done. can you start another thread about that? i inject grease in the bearing face seals - which works but deforms the face seal getting the needle fitting under there. i've tried drilling and installing a grease nipple or making a resealable hole in the face seal - but haven't beeen able to do that without damaging the face seal and the nipples are obviously too big to fit reaonsably.

Multiple codes - clear the codes and read them immediately when the check engine light comes back on or see which one comes back first/most consistently. already have a probable code - the camshaft sensor. i barely see a need for confirmation - the car is telling you what it is. this happens thousands of times a day - get a code, replace a sensor.

does it have a trailer hitch? maybe it was used with a boat/trailer. or it sat for awhile - if it's got salt and sits - it'll rust quick. if it's sitting over grass - that holds moisture to it for extended periods and rusts quickly.

www.car-part.com or local yards. they won't separate with the converters often times (might even be illlegal), need a small shop you can deal with. some shops you might get away with stopping by, they wont' likely tell you over the phone... i've bought exhaust components from out west before - they can be in great condition used beacuse of the less harsh winter treatments used in some places out there. so ask around, shops, pull it yourself yards, craigslist, post in the parts wanted forum here and subaruoutback.org or other high volume forums, local subaru forums? i would just install Subaru OEM boots and forget about the heat shields. or do a quick search for a heat shield and forget about it if i get nowhere - OEM boots should last a few years, not worth dealing with a heat shield debacle it's unlikely heat "caused" it alone. maybe it caused the boot to break in 2 months instead of 4 months. it was going to break at some point anyway because 20 year old high mileage CV boots are consumable maintenance items. install new OEM boots and if you can wrap it there with some kind of ceramic exhaust tape - awesome. otherwise i'd just ignore it. I ran my 260,000 mile current OBW for 100,000+ miles without heat shields and had no significant boot issues for 100,000. maybe I would have replaced the PS inner boot once, instead of twice, but at 250,000 miles i'm going to replace boots and those were aftermarket boots which don't last long on any lifted OBW/Subaru.

That would be a nice hit. What i normally try to do is have someone else drive and literally put my ears on the floor in the cargo area. Do that, sit in passengers seat, sit up front, it should help determine front/rear and/or left/right.

Subaru rear differential failure is very rare? Need to match the findal drive ratio - H6 rear differential is a 4.11 final drive. Any 01-04 H6 rear differential for sure. Maybe later - not sure what changed 2005+ You can search opposed forces and see if those year cross reference to later year rear diffs too. Others have 4.11 too - something along the lines of - EJ22 AT's and EJ25 MT's. www.car-part.com if you want to get another LSD unit, that complicates things, weren't really available in the 90's. You could swap your LSD chunk over or just not worry about it since most of them fail over time/miles to open differentials anyway.

good video, i wasn't ablet to listen to it til today. sounds like it's external more than internal - like something right there at that rusted flange is rubbing. run it and wear that rust off!!?!? LOL did the car sit for an extended period of time? if a bearing was making that much noise turning by hand i'd expect some other symptoms - hard to turn, grinding, play...

nice hit on the amazon link i only buy from online dealers in certain situations - hard to get item, don't feel like driving to the dealer, or i'm buying a lot of parts at once. in general buying one part online through Subaru simply doesn't work out. they can't specialize enough to narrow down precise shipping - it would require a team of staff for the purpose - thereby cutting into any cost savings. as easy as a customer thinks it is to pay actual shipping or go to the post office - that's now how it works when you're shipping large quantities of items - it would require huge staff/logistics/programming to dial it in precisely.

Front diff. Unless it's that cheap axle but I doubt that. Hard to guess how long. Could be a day or a year. I drove one to failure, took 18,000 miles I think but it was a different failure than yours. Mine was a "more minor" issue. If it's the ring and pinion I think you'll find a sooner and louder/ more dramatic failure than bearings. You're going to get a loud bank or clunk one day and not be movable.