idosubaru

+1 to clean the windshield and is the A/C working when defrost mode is on? Is the A/C working well? if it was an coolant related leak (anywhere in the system - heater core or otherwise), it should show coolant loss in the cooling/radiator/engine - and eventually overheating.

The newer 2005+ CANBUS stuff is much harder, it's integrated and I don't know anyone that's done it. write ups and diagrams for a job like that usually aren't available - search dilligently but don't be surprised if you come up empty handed, at best you usually find bits and pieces of information and have to compile it. Options: Get a stand alone engine controller $$$$....but then even that might not play nice with VDC or other intergrated systems - i'm not sure, but VDC would be the clear question mark. H6 manual transmissions exist in other parts of the world - Japan, NZ, Europe....so Subaru has done it. You're probably better off swapping in an entire 2001-2004 H6 and it's associated wiring - those are easy to bolt an MT up to. You'll loose 20 hp or so from it. Maybe you can close that gap with new cams from Delta Cams.

those are often called cam carriers/cam cases. yes anaerobic sealant or your favorite RTV substitute. assembly lube or grease or oil is fine on the cam bearing surfaces. make sure you get plenty where it's needed but not so much it's dripping down on the headgasket when they're turned right side up to install on the engine. get the FSM's online - any PHase II FSM will work for that 2000. they're free and readily available, i probably have 4 or so i got from online for free that would work for your vehicle. any 2000-2004 EJ25 or EJ22 FSM will work for those cam carriers.

Should be a 4.11. EJ25's with MT are 4.11 final drive as well - so they would be a good interchange option. you might be able to tell if you can find the stickers mentioned here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118507-95-legacy-gear-ratios/ if your ring and pinion itself aren't damaged you could swap that set into any gear ratio rear diff.

Ignore th cruise - that's not a symptom here, just a reaction to the existing P0171 code. *** Which O2 sensor did you replace? *** Why did you replace the O2 sensor? (for this issue or something else - what was that something else?) Intake leaks - check all hose fittings/clamps for proper fit, seating, and tightness. Exhaust leaks - would probably have to be very far forward, in front of the front O2 sensor. Front Oxygen sensor (on that side, if it has two front sensors). I think yours has a MAP sensor, so this doesn't directly apply but the MAF sensor on older Subaru's (pre-2000 outbacks) could need cleaned or replaced due to P0171 codes. Since the MAP sensor replaces the MAF sensor I presume the possibilty exists for it to be an issue here. But I don't think they fail very often so I'd think this a less likely possibility than others. Equally unlikely would be fuel supply (pump/filter) - but considering those easily and routinely make 200,000+ miles without issues that highly unlikely on a 2007.

sometimes classified sections require you to have a minimum number of posts before you can post there. is that where you're having an issue?

brand doesn't matter. just choose whether you want DOT 3 or DOT 4 spec's and change it frequently (or test it). from the company you trusted with your rotors: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/brake-fluid

what he said - you want Subaru axles, aftermarket axles are a debacle in general, not a Subaru thing. you can alternately get a used Subaru axle and reboot it as well. $20-$35 per axle, $50 in Subaru boots/hardware, +install, might not be much cheaper than a new subaru unit depending on mechancis/etc. www.car-part.com

definitely run the stock NGK plugs, they're awesome. i change them at 100k and they still look like-new. they're expensive but robust and it's not a job that's fun to do or you want to do any more than you have to. the valve cover gaskets frequently leak too over time - and with the valve covers removed the spark plugs are easy to replace. plugs are a pain to replace with the valve covers insitu. if there's any sign of leakage or you like being a little proactive replace your valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube gaskets, and spark plugs all at the same time.

oh yeah right VDC doesn't have rear LSD and probably can't/shouldn't or not needed. the cars 101 site suggests VDC's have LSD but it's just a typo. it says "Limited Slip" on XYZ models and then "H6 VDC adds on to those XYZ model features" - i'm implying it has all the same stuff as that previous 4 banger, but not the case.

so i guess 0.078" is a lot? i've never measured old plugs or paid attention really - just change them out. the newer H6 plugs never even seem warn at all.

She's got a possible connection with reasonable drive she's going to try out.

10w30. Follow the owners manual. Change oil often, it has hydraulic timing chain tensioners. Brand/weight hardly matters - any 10w30 is fine. The noise is the serpentine pulley bearings - replace both of them. They're standard 6203 (i think) bearings. Tap out the old, tap in the new. real easy and common failure point. They fail so often I check/replace them every 60k or so. There's an off the shelf dayco pulley that's close enough to use, i forget the part number but a google serach will find it.

All 05-09's with 4 cylinder non-turbo legacy's are basically the same engine - just look for external headgasket leaks, consider timing belt replacement (105,000 miles or 105 months). So depending on bushings/rust/care/maintenance there isn't much difference in terms of reliability - value will simply be price/condition dependent for 05-09 legacy's.

Spark plugs and wires fixed it. She made the 12 hour round trip and all is well, no "new engine needed". Before she left I asked the guy over the phone if it could be plugs/wires and he said "They tested fine, they wouldn't be intermittent". Anyway they were autolight plugs with 0.078" gaps and showing considerable wear. Factory is 0.039-0.043 or something like that, so nearly double the gap and not great pugs for subarus.

Yeah, one hose blowing off isn't enough to go on. clamps not being sufficiently tightened, cheaper aftermarket hoses that don't fit right, rusty old clamps or new aftermarkets that don't grab properly.... A recently sold car with issues suggests the car was dumped because of the issues. Hopefully they just didn't want to mess with it or got a terribly inaccurate assesment/quote to fix it. The other likely scenario is it's an ominous issue and they dumped it. 15 year old coolant reserve tanks and hoses are prone to being dirty and have various gunk on them, i wouldn't call that much to go on either. HG: 1. look for bubbles in the overflow or radiator while driving or right after turnign the car off (dont' remove rad cap while hot) 2. overheating (can be very sporadic and go months between overheats) Trans: 1. check fluid level 2. change fluid 3. is the AT light blinking on start up - if it is, read the codes 4. dented pan 5. make sure hoses are properly routed/sufficient flow through the new radiator.

No. "other competitors" is too ambiguous to make a declarative simple statement. No. Subaru's rely on slippage to transfer power to the rear. You have to - a fully locked 4WD isn't drivable on the road. I own a Subaru that can be locked and have been converted them before - you can't drive them on pavement like that. So you need systems to limit that stress/drivability issue. In genearl: 1. FWD vehicles with open diff/no traction control are one wheel drive - get one stuck in snow/mud and one tire spins 2. 4WD vhicles with open diffs/no traction control - are two wheel drive - get one stuck and one rear and one front tire spins. Add in traction control, manual trans, automatic trans, VLSD's, clutch type LSD's, DCCD, MPT's, VTD, and VDC and you have a wealth of options for "4WD" in general. How those rear wheels are "powered" on Subaru's varies considerably between automatic, manual, VLSD, DCCD, MPT's, VTD, and VDC. But in general "no" the rear wheels aren't always "powered" as you suggest. Manual transmissions have a VLSD center diff which transfers power based on slipping. Automatics have clutch plates (MPT) or VTD to control power transfer to the rear - also based on slipping. It's certainly not "locked" - it can't be or the car wouldn't be drivable. Subaru's do vary how much power is transfered to the rear - but that's still a very simplistic and unfair way of defining the system. How it's made available and response times and practical considerations vary wildly and can't be reduced to simple statements. FWD, AWD, open differentials, VTD, MPT, VDC, Manual, Automatic, clutch type LSD, VLSD....all have ramification on traction.

What he said - standard green coolant isn't considered long term stuff. Change 3 years or less. I'd use OEM, they are notably robust. The ones closer to the road are more problematic - maybe due to northeast winter treatment or maybe just due to road exposure? I don't know but in my experience they're more likely to incur rust (on clamps) which compromises hoses too. I wouldn't call failure imminent if they look good and history of vehicle has information suggesting good care and no egregious issues. OEM hoses installed and maintained well - not frequently removed/stretched/pried/overheated that don't get saturated with fluids last a long time. I've got 260,000 and I think I've only replaced the oil cooler hoses. Finding significant numbers of OEM installed hose never overheated and in great shape is hard to verify. They are just hoses and replacement can be cheap insurance.

what brand plugs and wires? i would swap the plug, wire, and injector with another cylinder and see if the misfire "moves" with it. if it does "move" then you know it's one of those three components. that's an easy and free test for DIY folks. if you're paying labor that's tricky - but you gotta pay for diagnosis anyway and i don't know that misfires are easily diganosed so i'd rather just rule out/confirm those three obvious and frequent failure modes right off the bat. that would also give a moment to check the plug/wires visually in case they maybe were compromised out of the box, a notably rare occurence but if you're going through those motions anyway it's worth a check.

H6 VDC's are LSD - but the unit is a self contained VLSD so it doesn't matter in terms of which fluid to get. follow the owners manual - an 80W gear oil is fine. rear is like 0.8 quarts i think. an owners manual is great for fluids, capacities, fuses, tires, etc, i'd get one. sometimes they're available free online digitally.

Subaru dealers perform a very specific oil consumption test for that exact engine. They have a trigger point for determining if it gets fixed.

That engine has oil consumption issues but all engines use oil, even if it's not measurable typically. How much are we talking? half a quart is benign. 5 quarts is suicide. Check with a dealer fist. If it's a significant amount and still under warranty or an extended warranty due to the oil consumption issue on that engine or previous acknowledgement of the issue at a dealer, then it needs to go through the official dealership documentation.

A common headgasket correlation is if you just got this car. A 15+ year hose failure does not indicate headgasket failure. 15 year old hoses can simply fail. Radiators clogged, fans not working, low coolant, can cause overheating which may also encourage a hose failure. But yes, H6's usually push exhaust into the coolant (they sometimes leak externally too as stated). First symptoms are typically very random overheating, events sometimes separated by many months and only very specific conditions. That gradually gets worse. That could exacerbate hose failures but this is only a reality usually after a long progression and ignoring of symptoms or an egregious overheating event. A recently failed H6 with OEM gaskets doing this would be weird. It would help if we knew more about the engine and vehicle. I'm assuming you recently got the car due to lack of info and the perception that this failure is advanced.

Have you talked to the dealer yet? Depending how it's applied sealant could trap chemical/salt laden water and actually promote rust, if it's around the sealing edges of those plugs. Happens all the time when people try to repair rust. Have you looked underneath to see if there's any starting there? i've seen leaky trunk very old subarus and they don't really rust out all that fast - it takes a long time and saturation for them to rust when it's rain water. if there are cases of really bad ones - i'd expect that's accelerated by rust and road water is the source, not rain water.

2011 outback if EJ25, not the newer FB engines.