idosubaru

I'm looking into parts - why do some Aux-in 3.5mm cords have 2 wires, and others have 3?

thanks edited out the 99

the AT thing doesn't matter - EZ30's have been installed behind subaru manual transmissions plenty of times.

If you're serious about all of those demands, get Michellin. If you're looking to cheap out, read some reviews, I went with Dunlop Signature HP XL last week, but only because I needed two. Otherwise I would have bought Michellin if I needed an entire set. Driving conditions/style will vary wildly and impact experiences/opinions but for me it seems the cheaper options aren't going to perform later like they do the first 2-3 years.

a center console and instrument cluster. cruise control computer is different between auto and manual in 95-99 models. trans mounts are usually left with the trans, so that should come with it. up to 1999 the ECU's are interchangeable between automatic and manual, i haven't done any 2000+ but i wouldn't immediately assume they'd change.

you've already pulled the pan? i'd definitely replace it, is there any reason not to replace it? doesn't seem like it would be hard to get another EA82 oil pan for cheap.

engine side wiring harness or body side wiring harness?

$30 and an address and I can mail you one. paypal or square - i sent you a PM with my contact info. you can email my username at yahoo if you can't use PM's yet. It's an EJ25 ECU from a 1997 Legacy LSi EJ25. The little plastic turning handle to release the connector is short from the end being broken off but still turns and works, it's just the connector engagement mechanism. But yes - any 1996-1998 EJ22 or EJ25 ECU will work. ebay car-part.com craigslist

Get a 1995-1998 EJ22 intake mainfold and it bolts right onto the EJ18 and then all 1995-1998 EJ22 and EJ25 (and 1999 Outback/Legacy EJ25) ECU's will work. EJ18's don't have a knock sensor but the threads are there - just screw a cheap ebay knock sensor in and plug it into the EJ22 wiring harness. And it's a much cleaner intake manifold than the EJ18 which is a beastly ugly thing. I've ran an EJ18 with EJ22 and EJ25 ECU - there was no noticeable difference at all switching ECU's - i think they're all making the same general computations, looknig at the same data, and come up with the same basic parameters to run it. If you want to keep EGR - get an EJ22 manifold with EGR. I just blocked the EGR off in the EJ18 and used a non-EGR EJ22 manifold for a cleaner engine bay.

oh yeah i'm thinking of some of my blue tooth kits i've had in the past - want an AUX port so i'd have to get an adapter for them to plug into an existing male connector. thanks for the dual ground comment, i was wondering why there were two on that. i've seen them a bunch of times and always wondered what they were too. i feel like they usually do have that port on them.

This is so easy, common, and basic - slow down and just check the slide pins. I see this all the time. They routinely seize for two reason: 1. rust/corrossion/lack of grease. clean and regrease with SilGlyde or equivelanent. if they're really rusty they'll need hammered out or really bad ones need torches to be removed or you'll just have to buy a new/used bracket/pins. 2. 04's have slide pin bushings, if you use generic, common brake caliper grease on the slide pins those bushings swell and stick in the pin bores. this hangs the pads, seen it multiple times. I now throw away every Subaru pin bushing i can - they're absolutely pointless and useless...except they're an additional failure point that causes issues. alternately - replace them with new bushings and use sil glyde - or other high grade caliper lubricant, that stuff won't swell the bushings.

Replace the timing belt components - belt, tensioner, and pulleys. There are reasonable Gates kits available through amazon, otherwise the parts can be very expensive locally. It sounds like a reasonable 13 year old price, condition, and assessment from Subaru. I see no reasonable expectations on Subarus part. Inspections are good - but with absolutely no skin in the game, it's really easy to be ultra critical. I could probably be ultra critical of their inspection - point out areas which are pointless/over the top and 04 foretser platform specific issues they should have checked. but i've got no skin in the game either, easy. headgasket - we need a picture before we can comment but so far we haven't seen compelling evidence from the various sources. spark plug tube oil - there's no check engine lights, that's not on Subaru in my opinion for a 13 year old car. at what age can they reasonably assume not everything is going to be *perfect*? 5 years, 10, 25, 100...? I think 13 is well beyond that margin. As an example - most average drivers aren't replacing those seals until a check engine light shows up. So it's not out of the ordinary. Also - we have to question the inspectors review of "oil in the spark plug tubes" if another place said the "headgasket leak" was a "spot". there's lots of tests that could be done - but assumptions have to be made and they're being fair to assume a 13 year old engine has the value (and condition) of a 13 year old engine by a short test drive and no check engine lights. they aren't going to measure valve clearances, spark plug gap, pull timing covers and check seal faces, and oil pumps, and pull injectors to test spray patterns, check brake fluid contamination, coolant voltage and properties, ATF and oil analysis, check HVAC pressures, check fuel pressure, hook up vacuum gauges, do smoke testing, do leak down tests, do compression tests.... most average drivers aren't replacing those seals until a check engine light shows up - so again, 13 year old car, you can't inspect and address every millimeter of a car and look for 3 year old condition when you paid for 13 year old stuff.

the stereo surrounds are hard to find and be careful shipping them - they're very brittle and break easily. you have to do some leg work and keep your eye out to find one. if yours is cracked it's worth the time to invest in some epoxy or fiberglass work to repair it. being international - yours is left hand drive? i probably have one but i'm not messing with shipping one and i'd rather have a spare than $50. others are probably in the same boat if they have one. i have parts cars but my XT turbo isn't a blue interior.

In general it is true though - shops typically just replace rotors. That is the norm. it's a pay-to-play system now - the automotive economy is way different than it was 20 or so years ago. people are very uninformed about cars, pay whatever is asked, aren't very economical with cars (they pay a lot for them, buy newer cars more often/quicker, love spending on gadgets and latest novel items, and thus pay higher and more frequent maintenance costs). so it's not in a shops interest to turn rotors, people don't care, and it's a win-win for shops. replacing rotors is super easy/quick, no machine needed, and they can make more money.

Don't replace anything. You can always call around and find a place that turns rotors - there's usually a few in town. If you do the brakes yourself just have a place turn your rotors and finish up. If they're the original Subaru rotors, they're higher quality materials than low price aftermarkets. keep original OEM rotors as long as possible. I wouldn't even turn your rotors though. rotors are waaaaay overrated and mis-understood in daily drivers. Scored rotros - there's no need to replace those. I have no idea where the notion comes from to replace rotors that are scored or wavy. It matters not. The new rotors and old ones will do the exact same thing, they are very simple in function. They increases effective surface area for more pad/rotor contact = effectively "larger brakes" and more cooling. So physically speaking scored rotors are only "better" than stock. There are two conceivable downsides - the pads won't last as long - and initial contact would be lessened, but that is mitigated by practical considerations: 1. we don't buy pads for longevity usually anyway 2. the amount by which some light surface roughness would cause additional pad wear isn't within the *margin* of typical replacement or concern - it's not like most people are drilling through their pad material to get every thousandths of a millimeter of pad material use from their pads. 3. they'll quickly wear into place when new - and tires stop the car, not pads, the initial wear in isn't going to prevent the ABS from locking up or change stopping distance. I'll run rotors all the way to 300,000 with waves, scores, it doesn't matter. I only turn or replace them if they vibrate when braking.

ignore it - even the Subaru owners manual or a TSB mentions the gauge reading zero when warm being normal. It has plenty of volume, regardless of what the pressure reading is. And, as mentioned, the gauges aren't terribly accurate either. even if it starts ticking (TOD), that's benign as well. in general there are two steps to repair ticking: 1. reseal the pump: mickey mouse gasket and shaft seal is all you need 2. replace the oil pump other than TOD the pumps on these don't reall fail.

easy. 600 pounds is nothing. some of us are towing a few thousand pounds. IMO grade is more important than anything else. i'd tow 5,000 pounds in flat land - it's so esay to drive and not very taxing. in mountains the difference is astonishing. you can feel that by moving a large trailer by hand - you can move a properly balanced heavy trailer easily in a flat parking lot - but not up even a tiny incline.

what's the downside to just wiring in a 3.5mm stereo cord directly - i guess it's clutter/not elegant/in the way to have a wire dangling in your car when not needed? i'm thinking one of these curled up in my ash tray? https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-STEREO-MINI-PLUGS-OPEN/dp/B00H0KANNC/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TVEMWQZM4RSNJ7PFKT0J i'm not sure why that has two ground wires?

check tire pressure after that. have the spark plugs ever been replaced - those are like 30,000 mile items on that car aren't they?

All the brakes need properly inspected. Most shops just pad/rotor slap brakes with little attention to details. And normally a 2007 foreser wouldn't need much but in rust belt anything is possible. A. the pad clips need checked or just replaced - they get built up debris or rust that hands pads B. the slides need cleaned and regreased with Sil Glyde or another high quality lubricant, not regular brake caliper grease. C. if the 2007 forester has the bushings on the caliper pins - they need inspected for swelling, replaced, or thrown away. they often cause drag from swelling inside the brake bore, which is sometimes from people using regular brake caliper grease on them, which you can not do. a "brake job" doesn't necessarily include any of those things, but those are the things that would affect mileage, not just the pads and rotors themselves - the only thing a "brake job" necessarily includes.

simplest to swap to conventional legacy struts. if you can get them back to good condition i've had great luck with air suspension, they easily run the life of the car, can be cheap, and never need replaced. they're certainly cheaper than buying all new struts for a car. but getting them to that point is not easy. they're hard to diagnose and have lots of leakage points. two most common leakage points for air in my experience: 1. check the bags and see if they leak. if they do replace with used ones - everyone throws them away so they're not worth much if you can find one. the air bags will last the life of the car is reasonably taken care of and not rusty. the rust at the bottom of the cylinder where it rubs against the air bag will wear the bags through. you can extend the strut, clean the rust, and paint the strut body. 2. the compressor lines - the base of the fittings can crack and leak or the lines themselves can need new orings (clean them up good while you're disassembling) there are nearly 20 orings in the system and they don't often leak but tha's a lot of potential for leaks. 5 at the drier, 1 at the compressor, 2 at each front strut solenoid, rear strut solenoids, and 2 or 3 on the air tank. ideally you replace all of those orings or as many as possible. the solenoids i think can get weak too internally, where they allow air to flow out of the strut - but if the system is sealed i'm not sure that should immediately result in deflation as the air should still be contained internally. you can also convert the struts to just take a regular tire chuck inflator and inflate them manually.

GAAAHHHH!!!! I did the same thing and it wouldn't seal either, thanks for describing that gasket issue, i never looked into that.

aftermarket axles have enough issues we'll never know if the axle was the problem or the mechanic, not without lots more information that seems unlikely to get. ***Never Buy After Market Axles*** Rather do this: a. reboot the originals, never replace no matter what a shop says b. buy a used Subaru OEM axle for $25 - $33 (www.car-part.com - everywhere ships now)

it's common to pull the knuckle away from the strut and this pulls on the axle where it connects to the trans. common for people to inadvertently pull th axle out of the trans (depends what year/model, you don't say). but the boot/ axle joint shouldn't come apart normally, so it's hard to say. rather than document - you might need a better mechanic. it sounds like you're not doing a thorough job of sourcing a good shop/mechanic? maybe they're all getting shot in chicago?

any 2000-2004 EJ25 with EGR I think impreza's/foresters even later will work but i'm unsure when they change. 1999 SOHC EJ25's (forester, impreza RS) will also work if they have EGR