idosubaru

Where did you read the VIN number?. I've seen plenty of subarus with replaced body parts and mismatched VINS.

Slowly compress tensioner Just before its compressed simply use a small tool to insert into eyehole and turn the pin to the desired orientation. Adjust as needed and once you're close you can insert a pin at an angle to hold it in the proper orientation. That way it's repeatable one time every time.

Rust sucks. But you're already there. I've ran new fuel line without dropping tank. There's two main leak points - most common are the metal lines where the rubber hoses attach just inside the rear driver side tire. Those metal lines will rust from the hose connection and up a few inches. Secondly point is the metal elbows coming from under the rear seat to the underbody area wherever connects to a rubber hose. If there's good metal to work with - cut the rusty ends off and just buy a longer hose. But usually it's too bad for that...yet each one differs. Use high pressure fuel injection hose - it's expensive. Not the cheap generic stuff. Also mark which hoses are which before you cut them out or remove them If it's bad.....here's what I did. I totally made this up and it worked. Remove access panels in interior trunk area. Remove rear seat (easy - it's only two 12mm bolts and a funny hidden clip) From there you have three lines. Start fishing line through. I used those long fishing wires that come with new Subaru trailer hitches but I'm sure you can buy them too. Stretch coiled section until you can thread/push with flathead screwdriver into your fuel hose. The ones I had were larger diameter then the fuel hose so I had to stretch it to fit. But it too much you need it TIGHT to pull on. Insert fish wire in hose then insert other end of wire in passengers side rear access panel first - and fish to drivers side panel. (Drivers side to paaaaenegrrs side seems harder). From there it's easy to go down the side of the tank and up Into the car and up into the seat area as needed. Do that and you can run new hose rather easily. If you need to run two lines from passengers side to drivers side you may want to try and cut out metal lines if possible. I only ran one from passengers side acess and replaced them all from drivers side forward. Worst case I'd cut holes and weld/bolt them back together before Id drop a rusty gas tank. I seriously considered doing that anyway but the fishing worked.

Crap axle. Seen it countless times. Maybe it's the tone ring or dust shield is rubbing something, but it's not torque, newer subarus aren't sensitive to that. I've done 100 or 3 axle nuts and never even bother with a torque wrench, waste of my time. Reboot yours Or start with a fresh OEM (green inner cup) axle. www.car-part.com, pull it yards, eBay have original subaru axles for cheap. $15-$35 have one shipped to your door. Get a 2000-2004 axle the outer boots have more convolutions and better materials and last longer. Also - subaru boots last longer than aftermarket a as well if you do reboot it. You can often only reboot the inner joint on those newer axles. The tone ring axles are a 2000-2004 axle but they work in 95-99 vehicles as well. I knock the tone rings off before installing them in 95-99 models, but I don't think that's necessary. It just taps off.

Go grab the listing off of car-part.com if it's still there.

*engines have the vin on them? Id try to talk to them in person, so much easier to dismiss over the phone sometimes. 1. Give the shop a chance and approach them with a decent inquisitive (rather than accusative) attitude. So far so good you're actually testing the engine thoroughly. Shops have to deal with a lot of hack diagnosis and suggestions that are absurd so I wouldn't be too discouraged by initial resistance/suggestions. 2. Most warranties I'm aware of require install by a certified mechanic/shop.reasonable places bend on this point but this seems unlikely here. So you might need to spend $500 to get your engine replaced - and the shop isn't going to warranty a bad engine so you may be stuck legally speaking by trying to DIY this. Good luck that sucks.

i do what crazy 8's and fairtax said - leave the lower idler off or tensioner off until the belt is installed. I've done the lower toothed idler plenty of times earlier on and it was as you've said - it can work but is cumbersome and prone to stripping the pulley only threads. I still encounter variance - some are easier than others - probably dohc, sohc, phase I and phase II differences?

I was running ATF in my leaky XT6 for awhile before i fixed it and it operated fine - though the ATF i think leaked out much faster, but maybe that was just coincidental, one experience is certainly no trend. ATF has been used before wiithout issue is my understanding too, i think Dima did it on the subaruxt forum, so i doubt it matters but my guess is the fluid is specific to the pump rather than the rack since EA82 and XT6 racks are interchangeable (and probably nearly the same thing) but pumps are entirely different in every possible respect. someone many moons ago - maybe even before the xt forum existed - using hydraulic tractor fluid or something like that. i recall them finding a fluid that was similar color, hydraulic fluid (high operating pressures) and they went with it without issue. i used Kubota Hydrostatic Transmission fluid and that didn't *seem* to work well - but honestly that has to be taken with agrai of salt as that wasn't in a properly operating XT6 power steering system which is why i didn't want to waste the liquid gold stuff on it. if one wanted to drill down on this then the question becomes what's different about the pump seals and actual pump mechanisms that fluid property may effect? seals will leak or pump design will cavitate or wear or something - but we all figure it doesn't matter. what's your username on the xt forum? the admin/site owner is looking into this as of today.

you're positive both are fully seated and bearings, seals, hubs, are all properly installed in order, depth, etc? both were doing the same thing? i would think it's odd for both to fail in the identical manner. if the hubs were run too long with bad bearings or otherwise previously compromised then new bearings can fail after that. though i'm not aware of them failing instantly due to the hubs?

copper spray is a different topic, commonly used, but not prescribed in the FSM.

nah, it won't be much work actually - use the pipe too get it started then zip it off with the an air gun. been there dozens of times.

it's pointless to check oil/coolant mixing - newer Subaru's never do that. Or...I should say...if they do it's usually REALLY obvious there's major catastrophic issues - like rods throwing through blocks. 3.0's do have headgasket failures, but they have distinct failure modes/symptoms and are often tricky to diagnose. mechanics often miss them and replace various other components chasing and guessing. the internal failure mode pushes exhaust gases into the cooling system. i've seen them go a year or two in this condition, with no symptoms in the winter, and after a year or two then they get progressively worse much more quickly. seen this multiple times in H6's. they're only common symptoms are: 1. they'll usually overheat under high loads or very specific conditions like - 70 mph, up a steep grade, 85+ degrees, with the A/C on - that's a typical time they're overheat in the very early stages, but run fine if even one of those things isn't true (turn off A/C, etc) 2. bubbles in the overflow tank are a symptom and a pretty clear one. check it at various times - idling, after a highway run, hot out, A/C on. due to their ability to do this very sporadically, have months between episodes, not overheat in the early stages....they're often hard to diagose at first.

WHICH ENGINE? is it a 1996 manual trans or automatic? Were you chasing any overheating issues prior to the timing belt change? Why did you change the timing belt? The check engine light and overheating are likely not directly related at all. 1. verify timing belt alignment for the cylinder misfires - those are both on the same side of the engine so one cam being off could do it. 2. burp the cooilng system - your overheating is due to air in the system. (unless you did the water pump replacement because you were chasing an overheating issue...) 3. 96 shouldn't have a new style tensioner but if it did - you pulled the pin on it right?

with multiple codes first step in my book is to clear them and restart the car immediately and see which ones come back first. check connectors for the MAP - make sure the pins didn't get dirty or bent and make sure they're fully seated together. swap MAP's and see if the symptoms/codes change.

6 point socket and 4 feet of stout pipe over the socket wrench handle. Yeah, grind the head/nut off, that would certainly work. stout pipe is easier and if this one is rusted like that you'll need the pipe in the future anyway. I have no idea how many times I've needed a huge pipe for removing a bolt. Unless you're hitting it with a 3/4" high flowing impact and air compressor it's not enough. Ocassionally a 1,000 foot pound 3/4" won't remove an axle nut (and one other SUbaru fastener once or twice), which baffles me, i've even asked before why not- hose diameter, etc, it seems like 250 pounds x 4 feet is about all i'd get from a long pipe - roughly the same values - but whatever the cause, the pipe works when the 1,000 foot pound beast doesn't.

Nope, it doesn't, or the Subaru FSM for the typical engines in this forum doesn't say that. I attached a picture of the FSM showing headgasket installation with no mention of sealant "Install headgasket". What engine? What is your source of information? This would all be simpler if you'd show you're hand. Miscommunication usually makes things take longer, inefficient, and causes issues - that's what's happening now. Take a picture or post a link or otherwise describe exactly what "Subaru literature" says this.

after running a bit - pull the ATF dipstick and see if the fluid has bubbles all over it or looks weird or normal. solenoids fail so rarely it's hard to say. i would expect a blinking AT light and check engine light if the solenoids were failing - but you dont' have any of that? you could look up the FSM values and test their electrical properties- - though probably in spec if no codes and the symptoms are that bad. i think the FSM calls for pressuing testing at the ports... FSM would be good to skim through - they're free online, just search around you'll find one. i would disconnect the transmission plug at the TCU (under dash above gas pedal) and allow the transmission to run in purely mechanical mode. it'll be in 3rd gear all the time - but that's perfectly drivable, i've done it before. the only issue, is older trans would also lock the 4WD as deafult mecahnical mode so it'll torque bind like nuts, drive it sparingly like that. im' not sure what the VTD or VDC do when th plug is pulled though, haven't tried those. but that would give you something to go on. if it drives much better - that might mean the mechanicals are decent and not the root cause of the issue. how much debris was on the drain plug when you drained it? i'm guessing not much if you didn't mention it.

1 year? keep it in mind of course but i'd just drive it. i've seen tons fo carb issues on generators, mowers, snow blowers, boats, and good grief i hate carburetors because i'm fixing multple ones every year....but what I also know is that a lot of Subaru people have started an old subaru that sat way longer than a year without issues. issues are so few and far between i wouldn't spend much time on it. does new gas eventually dissolve old gas or mitigate issues? are they more of a "closed" system than carbs? are they just as prone to issues and i haven't seen it yet? i don't know, i just haven't seen many issues in Subarus. presumably gas was all though the vehicle when it sat so injectors, fuel rails, fuel filter, fuel lines, fuel pump, and gas tank are all suseptible to whatever perceived threats are mentioned. to drain gas tank - pull the fuel hose in the engine bay at the fuel filter and power the fuel pump on continuously. someone will know a good way to do that. some Subaru's have a (green?) diagnostic plug you can connect that causes the fuel pump to prime every 2 seconds or something - that might be an easy way. Or just give the pump 12 volts. can also disconnect below the drivers side rear passengers seat unless it's rusty - then leave it alnoe.

i'd change the fluid again - one drain/refill only gets like 30% of the old fluid out. if you noticed a difference, maybe getting more of that old fluid out would help as well. i think all H6's have VTD, not just the VDC model H6's. i've always wondered if a non-VDC H6 would work in the VDC models. but i don't think anyone knows as i've asked/looked before. your H6 VTD will bolt up to the 4EAT transmission but the electronics i'd imagine are different.

Nice keep us updated if you head the ute route...or any Subaru route of course. This is one of the most practical and talented car goups i've seen, you've started at a good place. I'm shocked how many times I ask american made vehicle questions and can't find any information...Subaru's have a great following of capable, helpful, well versed people who are on the internet and create great resources like this website. Of all the Subaru forums this one IMO has the highest density, by far, of talented people who know Subarus really well. Engine builders, shop owners, decades of experience, it's hard to find an issue you can't get an answer to here. For the same cost - are the Ranger and Subaru comparable in year/mileage? That's usually the biggest hurdle making the switch when I help people buy cars. "holy smokes i have to get a 5 year older car with 100,000 more miles on it to make that jump?" Full size trucks hold their values, not sure where Rangers fall in that? Baja is based off the outback - outbacks are easier to find and i think a better overall platform, i'd lean that direction if you go Subaru conversion route. Can you keep the truck as a back up second vehicle for hauling? Or do you mean you like to just stash stuff in the bed like on a weekly/daily basis? how about a small trailer to make up for the lack of a bed or cargo carrier/roof box, carrier? i have a full size ford but good grief i don't like driving it, it's only if necessary.

oh right when i've dropped them with little room i was just pulling by hand, no trans jack. you can also rig up an engine lift, come along, cables to support the trans from above as well as you pull it.

your question is somewhat ambiguous. FSM does say to use sealant when replacing headgaskets - if by that you mean *during* a headgaskets job. If I'm the other hand, you mean actually using it *on* the headgaskets then reread it or throw those directions away and get some proper directions. No sealant on gaskets. Tribond goes on cam carrier. Anaerobic sealant or RTV or right Stuff are often used instead.

If you're in the US You don't have that. That's only for certain European and other international markets. I've never noticed that option when shopping for struts. Where are you buying them and what brand? I think quite a few people find the 05-09 struts lacking and jnstall new 01-04 struts instead.

1995 manuals do not have EGR, it's not supposed to have it, only automatics have EGR in 1995, few mechanics know that. 1. voltage/battery/alternator are good? 2. read the codes and post the exact codes here - the actual numbers. 3. *when you have multiple codes*: clear the codes and see which one comes back first - like if one appears right away, read it again immediately and tell us which one. Cylinder misfires: Check timing belt, timing tensinoer, timing pulleys Check fuel pressure - or i'd just pull the fuel supply line by the fuel filter and crank it over and see how much it comes out - i've diagnosed cars in 30 seconds like that before. If it doesn't come out as a steady stream like a garden hose, something isn't right. Throttle Position Sensor - replace it with a used one. If it didn't work, replace it again or make sure it's installed properly. If you still have a TPS code after replacing the TPS - then check the wiring for the TPS sensor - there are two possible ways: A. Start right at the TPS connector and work your way backwards on the wiring harness - wiggle the wires aggressively while the car is running. A change in idling/running while massaging the wires will indicate a wiring issue in the harness. splice in new wire. B. check resistance/continuity between TPS connector and main engine/intake manifold connector - really easy as they're both adjacent to each other, only a foot apart.

Lift engine so you can also tilt it back (engine up, trans lower). If you've got rust issues now is the time to also lift the engine and replace/inspect/wire brush/paint the coolant cross over pipe on the drivers side underneath of the engine - they're prone to rust and leakage. The exhaust is the only commonly problematic bolts on this job. I usually just plan on cutting them off or hope they shear off. Around here they're almost pointless to even try removing, they're always rusted terribly. The trans crossmembers rarely have rust issues, i've never seen it, nothing like the common rear suspension rust issues. Use 6 point sockets. Take long breaks between turns to let them cool down if they're tight. Removing the axles helps get clearance for removing the lower nuts and eases removal/install, but technically you can just pop them off the stub and push/pull them around as needed, it's just annoying to do so for trans removal/install. Lighting, old carpets/rugs, and glasses (for rust/debris falling in your eyes) help a lot when working underneath. Also having good access to all your tools - crawling under and out 15 times in a row for various sockets, wrenches, pliers, lights, extensions, etc - gets old. You do need room but I've also dropped them with not much room - then once they're on the ground, just jack up one side of the car to slide it out from underneath. If you're just going to muscle it out and in by hand, which i've done, it's almost nicer to have it as low as possible so the thing has less far to go - depending how and on what you're dropping it. I've pulled beefy automatics onto my chest before by hand and in those cases I wouldn't want them to be dropping a foot. But more room is helpful - just for access, arm movement, tool useage, lighting...not just trans clearance. But in general you could just measure the trans top-bottom - what's that roughly 2 feet - so you'd need 2 feet of clearance for the bellhousing....roughly.