idosubaru

swap subframe and repair that one? Or did you mean unibody/chassis damage. If equipped and you want it to work the Cruise control computers are different but easily plug and play swapped. AT cooler in radiator. Driveshaft length different.

Wheel bearing. I like to sit in the back trunk area and listen with ear to floor to verify where it's located. Rotate tires front to back, if the noise doesn't move with the tires you know it's not them. Subaru rear diff failure is extremely rare. Doubtful the trans. Driveshaft or axle shaft or carrier beating maybe.

Michelins are the awesome. Nearly every tire they make is really good, IMO they're across the board quality is untouchable by big suppliers. All the others make great tires too...and some rather poor performers. But they're pricey. general altimax are a good price performer for what you get and a few other lesser known brands have good reviews and you can read other reviews by searching online - perusing 100 threads is more helpful and less anecdotal than one thread with 8 responses. That said the altimax and yokos or whatever I've bought with good ratings perform great out of the box but do seem to wear quicker and degrade performance a little each year. Not a ton and I run dedicated snow tires in the winter anyway so I don't care, but enough that I wouldn't want them for Winter use. First winter great....after that I notice a difference.

here's what they look like - they snake between the tank and right against the body/chassis or something, with little access. the rust is maybe an inch past the first bend close to the hose - after that the hose is clean metal. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/problems-maintenance/14011d1230490505-fuel-line-replacement-tank-0111.jpg

some of them were known for timing chain noise which is largely benign if it's "typical EZ30 chain whining". we'll never know for sure but statistics are in your favor! it's going to be a lot of wiring work and nothing will be plug and play. automatic sounds tricky - the TCU won't be plug and play and the ECU is going to want to see some TPS input probably which will most likely vary considerably - but just a guess that a glance at wiring diagrams would confirm. the "easy" way to do it would be to simply run the existing 4EAT in mechanical mode - disconnect the trans connector or TCU altogether and run it with no electronic control. older 4EAT's default to 3rd gear and locked 4WD - which you can install a switch to simply "lock" or "unlock" that - simply one wire (well two - one circuit for the switch). but that probably steals the performance you're after....but would get it drivable with nearly zero work and zero cost.

1999 EJ22 Legacy wagon - the hard fuel lines by the REAR drivers side wheel that come off the top of the fuel tank are rusty right where the hose attached - but just 1-3 inches, after that they appear fine going up and bending around the gas tank - no rust at all. This is mainly an issue of access - I can't slide the hose far enough up that metal line to clean metal due to limited space and the bending hard line - multiple attempts and the fuel is still squirting out the top of the hose at the clamp. Options: 1. install 3/8" hose instead of 5/16" hose and hope it's easier to snake up in there. I test fit and it seems close enough to 5/16" that the clamp is going to easily secure it. *** Anyone ever use larger hose like that? 2. Run hose all the way from the fuel pump and bypass that metal line altogether. Easy but i don't like the thought of the fuel line just sitting up there. 3. Cut all the rusty ends off and try like ()!*%*% to get that 5/16" hose up in that small area. This is probably the best option as I don't see any rust up there and maybe sliding it over that first 3" of rusty hose is just too problematic - get that out of the way and maybe it'll ride up to clean non-rusty hose? Maybe i'll try this first and resort to option 2 if I can't seat the hose. *** How do I cut a metal line in a hard to reach place - I don't even think my small die grinder will fit up there...maybe....

Alternator and fuel pump are the items that will strand you. New Subaru units or low mileage used are the only good replacements though. I aim to replace them around 150,000 on my way to 300,000 miles. Replace or have used spares just in case, both easily replaceable in an emergency. Www.car-part.com With timing belt the oil pump should have been resealed and tighten backing plate screws and replace cam seals. AC hose, oring or valve has a leak, usually the 50 cent orings. A closed system doesn't loose charge.

It'll fit. That's a 01-04 EZ30, any EZ30 ECU from that era works, part number doesn't matter You don't need a crossmember. It bolts right in. Yes there's a main harness from engine to ecu then lots of other harnesses. Harness - you have to strip your EZ30 harness but I'll let those familiar comment there. Ez30 has 3 radiator hoses so that needs addressed. Nice find......Do you know why it was cheap? A $100 EZ30 makes me wonder if it has blown head gaskets?. I've got 3 of those.

Clutch plates / grooved basket. Running with mismatched gear probably hosed them or the straw that broke the camels back. In some cases I install a switch to the FWD fuse and switch between FWD and locked 4WD as needed and call it an upgrade/mod!

my guess: 1. wrong rear diff ratio - mis-identified parts, previously swapped and assumed the wrong ratio...etc... 2. the transmission is not a 4.44 - it was mis-identified, or previously swapped...etc. there are 98 legacy's with 4.11's and they have been swapped in place of 4.44's before - i've done it. I would verify the diff ratios. Check rear diff ratio by rotating and comparing number of wheel revolutions to the number of driveshaft revolutions. See what you get. Then check front diff of the trans - i think the only way is to pull plug and paint mark the gear teeth and rotate that way I think. I think you could probably put it in FWD and compare the speedo to a GPS unit speed and see if it's accurate - that would suggest it's the correct 4.44, or it'll read off 10% if it's different? probably not ideal but might be an easy check. Yes - Duty C should be operating fine if FWD mode works.

are you absolutely positive it started immediately after installing the speakers? tire pressure light - that implies something newer like 2005+? year and model please? a wiring harness was disconnected - just go back in where you work and look for something disconnected. FSM's will have intricate detail but with all that detail are hard to sift through too if you're not familiar. check fuses - though i doubt that's your issue here.

he's right - whining is usually a front differential. front axles, specifically the inner joints can have issues under load exactly like the front diff - but usually don't whine. they'll usually have vibrations, knocking, or deeper type sounds. that's normal - i'm not sure what a cheap aftermarket product is capable of.

You're in LA - a huge market, is it a good subaru market? do both? get a 2017 early and then a 2018 late in favorable circumstances and maybe it wouldn't be much of a hit, get in it sooner without thinking about it and get an extra year+ warranty out of it?

aftermarket axles suck, they have a high percentage of issues - avoid them entirely no matter what a friend or shop says. shops prefer them and try to lean that direction but it's not the best fit. you've got a few options: 1. buy a used Subaru axle for $20 - $35 www.car-part.com cheaper and more reliable 2. buy a used Subaru axle and reboot it. 3. buy a used Subaru axle and reboot it with Subaru boots. they last 5-10 years where aftermarket boots last 2-5 (at least in the rust/winter belt - that may differ based on location/use). 4. FWE sells rebuilt Subaru axles with great quality - in the denver area or have to deal with shipping. much more expensive but great off the shelf option. 5. RAXLES is another option people are sometimes using - again very pricey but it's a bolt on part so people like that sometimes. Subaru axles are so robust this is a nearly 100% success rate repair - aftermarket axles aren't even close to that.

front axle or front differential is failing, i'm leaning towards the front differential based on your description, but your details are sparse for only having words to go by. front diff will get worse over the next few thousands miles if it doesn't catastrophically let loose first. pull the plug and look for metal/chunks/swirly stuff in gear oil

positively a bearing noise? might need a sleeve kit?

2005's have some ECU/converter related recalls/updates - i would check and make sure you don't need to reflash your computer which they did to 2005's. 05+ i don't think the spacers will work in 2005+ due to significant changes in how the ECU and O2 data are intergrated (before 2005 it was just a trigger circuit, very simple, didn't really do anything). where you buy doesn't matter - just pick one.

There's only one difference that year - two different style crank trigger marks. You're probably familiar with it but for clarity - keep the crank sprocket and cam sprocket with the ECU/vehicle and everything else - engine, wiring, are the same. Since the ECU can't run the other style crank there are simply 2 different ECU's that's year but i don't think it's a forester/impreza difference and it doesn't change the wiring - just the ECU.

I would do a simple brake assessment and reconditioning. A couple bucks and an hour you can have it locking up the wheels like it should and bigger brakes can't do any more than that if you're not racing or towing huge loads. Clean and regrease with quality grease like Sil Glyde Replace rusted/damaged brake clips or boots. Flush the fluid. That should be it but if needed, new pads and resurface the rotors.

it's piston slap or rod knock. piston slap gets better as it warms up and will stay the same for years with no issues. rod bearings will get worse quickly and eventually you'll have confirmation soon enough.

I don't know anything about EA71's but are they similar to EA81's? Can you use an EA81 gear box? Have you seen this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/46877-front-diff-interchangeability-the-true-answer/

it'll all make sense when you go in there, it's rather simple there's really only two main steps to his detailed response: 1. pull valve cover 2. remove rocker assembly

Are 2000-2004 rear axles interchangeable? This shows different part numbers and someone said today they are a different length? https://subaruparts.com/parts/2003/SUBARU/Outback/VDC?siteid=218240&vehicleid=44981&diagram=7522655&diagramCallOut=5 Just curious...

older gen you used to be able to buy the entire assembly with bushings installed from Subaru for a reasonable price - did you check with them? used parts could be an option too those rear diff bushings don't fail terribly often. different set up than yours but gives some scope on bushing removal and diff hangers: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122627-rear-differential-bushings-write-up-wpart-number-subaru-legacy-90-94/

ideally - the next time it's hot you jack that tire up and see if the wheel it tight to turn - like the brakes are clamping on it. do that a couple times to see if you can catch it sticking. have someone press and release the brake pedal while you're spinning (or trying to spin) the tire and make sure it clamps and releases in unison with how they're pressing the brake pedal. you're positive it's still getting hot after the wheel bearing replacement? did the mechanic say the old bearing looking damaged? what did the pads look like - warn evenly, look the same as the other side of the car...?