idosubaru

You're welcome. It's confusing. AISIN kit designations have changed over time while listings through 3rd party suppliers and internet searches haven't tracked those changes very well.

It's totally normal for the cruise control to turn off when the check engine light comes on - yes it's dumb but that's what they do. "Shaking abnormally and power steering" - are not related to the check engine lights. Start another thread asking about those and give better details. Take note: Neither of those is a big deal - meaning they aren't going to leave you stranded (very unlikely anyway, I am making some assumptions with limited info). Very briefly: a. shaking during braking (like exiting a highway) is just a front rotor that's warped. Very common and benign but annoying. Have the front rotor(s) turned if you can find a place to do it. Shop across the street from my office does it for $15 if I take them the rotor. You absolutely don't need new rotors and if your current ones are stock they'll be higher quality metal and less prone to rust than generic replacements. Power steering - 05-09 power steering systems in Subarus have issues. Describe your specific symptoms and start annother thread. P0420: 1. If you have any exhaust leaks - fix them first. 2. General tune up - ideally you get new NGK spark plugs, Subaru or NGK spark plug wires, new PVC and see if you get lucky and the code goes away. Usually it doesn't. You're better off ignoring the P0420, check engine light, and just get used to not having cruise control. You can drive 100,000 miles all day long with a P0420 code. It's All but meaningless on a nearly 20 year old vehicle. Unless you're getting horrible gas mileage but you didn't say that. You can sometimes diagnose it and end up with a simpler solution - but you're highly unlikely to find the technical expertise to do this so usually it's just simpler to install a new converter. 99% of shops are just going to install a new converter. If you need it fixed you'll need a new catalytic converter and preferrably a Subaru one as aftermarkets are prone to early failure. If you get aftermarket which might be your only reasonble choice get a Wagner or other well known brand.

When there’s confusion check with manufacturer. AISIN says: TKF010 https://aisinaftermarket.com/english/onlineparts.html

Search for the AISIN part number: TKF-001 https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/aisin,TKF001,timing+belt%2C+water+pump+&+component+kit,16088

Outback strut assemblies with new KYB struts and 16” Subaru wheels of your choice will give good lift results, larger wheels/tires and it’s easy. sometimes very early 90s legacys and/or Imprezas have slight suspension variations. Make sure that’s not the case for whatever approach you take. Scott builds lifts and is a long time member here. A 2” lift would be easiest to install.but then you’re stuck with legacy fender /tire clearance. https://www.sjrlift.com/

That's great, nice find! It's got a full bed and rear facing seat it's more than a "trim level" of what is otherwise the same vehicle - but yes there are lots of cross over parts as you've found out in researching. Godo job. It's sometimes easier/more efficient to look up parts for other year/models depending which site you're using on these older Subarus. I'll leave the EA81 specifics to others more familiar with them.

In old Gen and H6 JDM I’ve never had issues buying US gaskets. Ive only seen the generic pvc type hoses be different.

Your best bet is to buy a Subaru that’s closer to what you want (Manual or bigger engine or turbo or whatever you want). What do you want? Go buy that. Then learn by learning how to maintain brakes, do preventative maintenance, do upgrades, and ask specific questions about which turbo or how to rebuild a turbo or upgrade Intercooler, etc. If you absolutely insist on jumping into a big project then buy one that needs work - buy a blown turbo with manual trans and repair it or one with a wrecked bumper and swap bumpers… I think that’s about all I can help on this conversation, so I’llbe checking out. Good luck and enjoy the soob. OBS are great, reliable transportation. They’re about the easiest and inexpensive 200,000 miles you can get.

You could also price it all out and see for yourself - are you okay with $5k-$10k in costs even if you’re doing all the labor? If so then maybe paying superior to do it is a much better option. Not because you can’t but because theyre that good. If cost does have a lid then look at your list and ask questions about how to pare that down or cull or have a plan that works.

There’s so many different ways to do this - it’s almost infinite. It’s hard to say much with confusing general questions. Whatever you do - Get a new Subaru turbo only. Or equivalent OEM supplier. The choice of block and internals and transmission depends how much power you’re aiming for, how much you’re willing to spend, and *how long you want the engine to last* - which everyone says they want but actually spend no time considering. First you wanted a 97 DOHC which isn’t turbo, nor ideal. Then you wanted forged internals which isn’t necessary or beneficial on a non turbo. Then later you say turbo. You also said “little modification” but now you’re mentioning turbos with forged internals that you’ll be installing yourself - which will require rewiring and controllers with extensive cross member and exhaust overhaul and/or cutting/welding. Then you mentioned upgraded transmission. That’s the opposite of “little modification” price tag of your implied goals has ranged from $500 to $15,000 depending how we interpret it. Id work on narrowing down your goals here to something chewable and manageable. One of the best subaru builders is in your state, Superior Soobie in Oregon could do it for you. You’ll get top notch work and more importantly it’ll last.

"Put better internals" - Are you doing all the work? If labor is free (which it won't be): It'll cost $5k for engine, $1k+ for turbo/downpipe, $1k for controller, plus supporting gaskets, fluids. The questions being asked here don't sound like they're coming from somone with the experience or technical understanding to do this kind of work. If paying someone else: $10k+. In that case you need to ask them questions as they'll have they're own preferred methods/sources/pricing. Crawford sells built turbo blocks and parts. https://crawfordperformance.com/collections/crawford-built-subaru-short-blocks Or you can try to ghetto build it with rising rate fuel pressure regulators and an SPFI and blow up a few blocks to learn the ropes.

There's no computer control - just a very basic on/off logic circuit. You could find a factory service manual A/C page (or you may already have it?) and see all the components to the system, it's not much.

can you remove another shim? Good job checking the clutch. Sounds like the clutch is shot or the AC is fine but you have blend door issues like the controls aren’t fully and nominally moving the blend door mix. I don’t think this is your issue but I don’t want to assume too much via the limitations of online diagnosis! Well done removing a shim, slick move. I’m not we’ll versed in the AC clutches since they fail so rarely on Subarus and I can usually easily install another compressor with little testing, but I’d assume the improvement means clutch engagement issues that are only partially resolved via the shims. Have you already replaced the compressor? I’d assume the compressor or clutch needs replaced. WAG: Maybe the compressor or bearings are tight and requires greater than normal exertion to rotate. This would explain premature clutch wear, why removing shims helped, but didn’t totally solve it, and weak overall compressor performance.

I like to buy from Scott, i've bought two kits and he assembled a "custom" mix and match kit for what I needed easily: https://www.sjrlift.com/

Yes. Dex III or the newer Dex Vi. That’s practically all that’s available.

Standard Dexron (used to be frequently labeled as Dexron/Mercon) used in Subarus for about 50 years. It is confusing - some labels downplay the 50 year standard Dex/Merc labeling standardized by the entire industry and owners manuals. I see “Asian Fluid”, “Foreign Vehicle”, “Compatible with…” and trademarked brands where you have to read the small print to find out it’s just the same old Dexron. Lame sauce. Subaru has good fluid too and it can be cross referenced to Idimetsu

They do have great purchase value. 80% of good priced subarus I see are manual trans. In my searches MT Subarus 15-20 years ago weren’t so differently priced. Extra annoying when they needed a new clutch shortly after purchase which wasn’t hard to have happen. Good point ! You’ve convinced me to teach some folks. what’s the easiest Subaru to do a clutch on? Might be fun to teach a bunch of folks on the same vehicle!

Any 4EAT transmission is beast. 99-00 are arguably worth avoiding for minor issues. A 2002-2006 Forester has the 4EAT Manual trans plain suck anyway. They offer no net advantage to ownership except popping the clutch on a dead battery, secruity, and often they can be bought cheap since no one wants (to deal with) one. Support is waning, parts and replacements getting hard and $$$$$ to get. older ones need a clutch or synchros warn, torque bind has no easy solutions, it was driven hard or the new clutch sucks or wasn’t done with TO or pilot bearing or cheap components and input shaft bearings…and just the time to replace a clutch is a waste. The better question is about engines, not transmissions.

The widely accepted norm from people that have done *many* Subaru headgaskets (and not just 1 or 3) is no spray and to do the following: Subaru gaskets or possible MLS equivalent Resurface the heads (it's pointless to "test them" and you can resurface yourself - it's insanely easy) Clean the head bolts and receiving holes in the block Lubricate the head bolts None of that really costs anything to do it the same way the most prolific and highly rated Subaru speciialists have been doing this for many years. So there's almost zero reason to not follow that protocol except laziness, lack of planning, anecdotal types who just like to think they're finding some new trick to solve a well known quarter century old question. I only do that so I can't comment on trying to deviate or follow some other method except that it just doesn't make sense to do so.

Itll be like getting a new refrigerator by buying each part one at a time and assembling it at home. It's much easier to get a complete engine. There's an incredibly amount of plumbing to make a turbo work to try and assemble it from scratch. Find a BLOWN complete turbo engine or vehicle so you can just swap blocks with it. You'll need all the up front exhaust, down pipe, intake, turbo crossmember or cut/modify yours, and stand alone ECU.

Too far and no time but man I was tempted to call my shop owner friend who's got a frame puller he deals with, that's such a sharp ride, too bad it's hit so bad.

What do you mean "the dealer"? If a Subaru dealer - who did you talk to? They various staff at dealers have a hard time keeping track of 10+ year old Subaru's and options availabilities/changes. So I'd be more inclined to think the person you talked to was guessing if the picture shows buttons. Did you type your VIN into google and check cars101.com to see what they list as equipment? It's not perfect or offical Subaru info, but he's a Subaru employee and has a lot of good information posted here about trim/options, etc: https://cars101.com/ Do you know if this could have been a dealer or owner add on? Years ago I fished lake Talmadge many times a few miles north of Hampton.

Well done! Don't know about the VSS. What issue are you having with it? Did you swap into an auto or manual vehicle?

The only RHD Subaru's i've ever seen are 1990's legacy's. So the simplest guess would be a 1990-1994 and 1995-1999 difference. Only 1990's legacy rack difference Im aware of is the gear ratio, maybe that's the difference here - are the number of teeth/splines on the shafts that would change steering ratio different? Maybe the quicker rack has beefier gland or something to support quicker steering ratio? CARDONE has a rebuild service listed on rockauto.com - for $218 you mail them your rack and they rebuild it and return it to you. This link may not work - but just drill down to your vehicle on rockauto.com and under rack and pinion is a rebuild option: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1996,legacy,2.2l+h4,1269873,steering,rack+and+pinion,7388 I assume it would be unavailable if you ordered it but here's Subaru's RHD rack: https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts/subaru-rack-assembly-gear-box~34116fa000.html This place appears to have sold rebuilt ones before: https://www.detroitaxle.com/shop/steering/rack-pinion/complete-power-steering-rack-pinion-assembly-right-hand-drive/?vyr=1996&vmk=Subaru&vmd=Legacy&vsmd=Postal

Wow I thought tearing one down would take longer. Good to hear in case I ever tear into one of these XT6 racks I've always meant to try. I don't know - but RHD being largely JDM - keep in mind their years/generations/models don't line up with ours if you end up comparing years here to years on JDM equipment.