idosubaru

If you don’t agree with their oil consumption test results then ask them nicely to do it in a way that you can verify the fill and final check with them. Because it never happens when you change it. Stand outside the bay door, watch through a window, or better yet go to another dealer. How many stars do they have on Google reviews, Social media, etc? Subaru does warranty things out of warranty sometimes. Though if you weren’t able to get it right for 100k then I doubt you’ll have success this time? I have plenty of “bad dealer stories” and yet I also know enough that I could get a proper test done and the current dealer I use would work with me. Or I know a couple others I could go to if needed Its a little surprising you’re this well versed in cars/subarus but couldn’t figure it out before 100,000 miles. It makes me think where you live is full of argumentative litigious Ahats and the dealer has to protect themselves (the outskirts of the sorry a$$ city of Baltimore has these types of issues), you’re abrasive and hard to work with, or that dealer is so bad you should have never went there to begin with. You’re accusing the dealer of lying - work more closely with them, be nicer, or go somewhere else. Expecting more good results from a place you accuse of lying is absurd.

The spacer works great, but only for pre-2005 outback’s.

Install a used or new Subaru axle with fresh grease and boot. Maybe that’ll take care of the issues. Mark retainer location to trans case, count turns and reinstall to same position.

You didn’t answer any questions. We can’t see or touch the car and even simple questions like if it’s an automatic or manual goes unanswered. Diagnosis would be ideal over guessing. Take voltage readings. It takes 4 minutes to take voltage readings and find out what’s going on. That’s less time than posting here, and way less than hours replacing all those parts. It almost sounds like you want a list of more random parts to guess and probably not fix this. Here’s a list you can pick and choose from: Verify battery and alternator and starter at local store. They can test them. It would be zero surprise for one of them to be bad. They’re so unreliable I would install used Subaru starter or alternator before aftermarket. The originals last 20 years, new aftermarkets fail all the time. Replace or check inhibitor switch or neutral safety switch. Replace or check crank pulley for separation that’s compromising charging Replace ignition switch Replace starter relay Selector inhibitor (exact name is eluding me) Replace/tighten/adjust alternator belt Check/disable security system, if equipped

car-part.com or jdm transmission I doubt you have any options. No one knows enough to tell you how to do this and probably no one has done it any statistically meaningful number of times in potential failure situations. You’ll simply get no replies and any reply you get won’t carry much weight Ive had one bad diff I nursed and looked into backlash and preload options and got nowhere. Trans ended up driving poorly and locking up after 10,000 miles or so.

Yes. But it’s almost always the belt so that’s the first check. Remove three 10mm screws on front drivers side timing cover and look. It takes 10 minutes. It’s easy and the best method - has to come off anyway and car is still drivable without it You can also remove rhe distributor cap and turn the engine over - if the disty doesn’t spin when the engine is cranking, the belt and/or pulleys are bad. The disty sensor pick up could be bad. Also an easy fix but far less common. Instalk new belts and idlers. They’re easy to do. Id also install cam cap orings, crank and cam seals and reseal the oil pump with Subaru gaskets while it’s apart. I’d use Subaru seals. All of that requires the belts to be removed to replace anyway. Water pump too - use a Subaru gasket. The aftermarkets are thin cheesy paper and prone to leak.

“Success” meanings “it works” or “improvements”? It can be done. I’m unsure of the benefits.

Drivers side timing belt snapped or jumped.

Auto or manual? Try starting an automatic in neutral or moving the shift selector through all the gears then back to park/neutral and try again. Sometimes the sensors doesn't realize it's in park - they're prone to get drinks spilled on the switches by the gear selectror, etc. Check battery voltage at battery posts then starter. Are they the same? Need to make sure the starter is seeing full battery voltage. You can attempt to jump the car to - but you need good cables and connections at the battery terminals to make sure the starter has access to full amperage.

Sorry it was long. The short answer to your questions are: “no, the axle can’t impact camber or wheel bearings”. ABS: Focus on specific symptoms - what is it doing? Post any codes and describe symptoms. Aftermarket wheel bearings were good at setting ABS codes. The wheel sensors can be cleaned off.

Are you able to lower and raise the blade easy enough with that winch? I’ve got a couple blades and a winch this would be fun to toss on my tractor or Subaru.

Brilliant! It’s fine, you’ll never have issues again. Like most bearings they dry out and loose all their grease. And it probably has some rust. Those bearings aren’t taking massive rpms and mechanical, combustion or hydraulic heat loads. They just need to have some kind of grease in them, stuff animal fat down there and they’d probably be fine. You just went from something to nothing to something. You’re back in business. I guess there’s a chance you ripped the bearings to shreds and the races and top hat are compromised really bad. But you didn’t mention any other issues or symptoms besides stiff steering. Just grab the strut and shake it like a beast. All feet tight enough? Carry on b Give it another oil soaking before winter and carry on. I’ve heard of spray in grease - a type of grease you can spray at a distance as a liquid and it dries into thick grease. This may work well here but with your low use it won’t matter.

I get it. I wouldn’t fault someone for using aftermarket. Batting .700 is phenomenal in baseball and some people might be fine with that. It’s still good to know particularly so one doesn’t overlook them as potential sources of issues just because they’re new. It’s good to ask - some parts like radiators are excellent aftermarket options. Aftermarket wheel bearings also fail much faster than OEM and my time is too valuable to redo a job like this stupid Tribeca bearing I thought I’d be cute and try aftermarkets on. At least it’ll come out easy being newly installed.

Nice hit you were able to read them! I haven’t seen any ABS or SRS codes on 2010+ Subarus except a couple wrecks I’ve rebuilt but that doesn’t count. So I’m not familiar. The car didn’t get rain or a spill or swimmers sitting in it like a recent previous poster did it? Their lights came on and went out with some copious drying. The new seats loaded with AC, sensors, bidets, and heaters and aren’t as forgiving of getting wet as older seats. Lol Next: Recalls or TSBs. Id call Subaru or check online and ask if there’s any related recalls or TSBs. I found a related TSB below, probably better to search for recalls using your VIN. Here’s the TSB. Subaru sees this enough or otherwise found this update necessary some of these tests can be done with a basic multimeter: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10138780-9999.pdf

Any aftermarket has a high chance of failure down the road. Including SKF. I’m unsure but from the little I’m aware of aftermarket uses a worse seal than OEM. Maybe a single lip seal instead of double lip. And aftermarket as a whole is far worse at grease quality and quantity quality control. So there are known and highly suspect reasons aftermarket is lower grade in addition to those who are around a lot of Subaru just see more failures. * If I saw a new Subaru bearing fail I’d be surprised and look into possible knuckle damage or prior accident history at that corner. I’ve never seen OEM replacement bearings fail and that’s what I predominately install. I have no clue how many I’ve installed. * If I saw any aftermarket brand fail Id consider it normal. Ironically the last OEM bearing I installed two years ago on a 2006 Subaru is currently growling. I ordered front and rear for a Tribeca thinking I might get OEM from aftermarket (see catalog filling comments) since that’s a low volume vehicle. The front was. The rear wasn’t and its now noisy. Funny considering how much I avoid aftermarket Sometimes you can get lucky and actually get an OEM Japanese wheel bearing like NSK in the box of a beck Arnley or Timken. but that’s rare and just when they want to fill out their product line and have to use the OEM supplier just to complete there Subaru offerings. But I don’t think you’ll see that for a 2014 Forester. I think it happens for lower volume parts or rarely due to temporary volume logistics. A. If you’re trying to fix it cheap and sell it 6 months use whatever you want. B. If you don’t mind an atrocious failure rate…like 30% down the road (imagine throwing up 3 out of 10 times at a restaurant - that’s how I view this). But - in defense of aftermarket wheel bearing lovers - this means you have a 70% chance of being fine. (I’m making up the numbers - but they’re significant, whatever they are, maybe worse. I’m not a shop or mechanic and I see it though j don’t see enough volume to keep meaningful track of brands. If you’re okay with that Use any decent brand aftermarket you’re comfortable with. This is also why you see tons of anecdotal evidence on line “I installed this bearing and it’s fine”. Of course you did. no one is saying they never work, but the failure rate is bad. That’s like saying you never lock your car in big cities and haven’t ever had an issue. Good for you but that’s short sighted. And many people don’t keep a car long enough or are around a lot of Subarus long term to see these high rates of issues. C. Unfortunately Subaru is the only near 100% success rate option. If you’re paying for labor no way would I buy aftermarket. Too much effort and risk getting stranded with another shop, or happening after your warranty and paying again. If you’re DIY it’s almost not worth it because any job is so cheap youre time is worth more than the parts price difference on this job. I’m not an all OEM guy but for wheel bearings I am.

Wow. That’s a fantastic price. Thank you so much for posting back. I was very curious how this would work out.

Read the codes. I haven’t done one as new as 2014 but older models have a way of flashing the codes via the ABS light. Ground one pin and read the number of flashes. Read and post the codes. Guessing isn’t a good idea. Why do you say it’s related to the passengers seat? Steering wheel roll connector is most likely - when the light comes on does the horn still work?

This is the only symptom we have reasonable cause to believe still exists (assuming alignment fixed your alignment issue). “doesn’t also shake”? Did you mean it only vibrates while soft braking? First make sure this still happens after the alignment. Severely warn tires can “wobble” and steering wheel jitters may be solved with new tires and alignment. If symptoms still exist clarify if this is for sure ABS related. Vibrating while braking is standard turn/replace front rotors territory for Subarus. Or for models with caliper pin bushings check those bushings. And use synthetic bushing compatible grease only. I like SilGlyde If it is ABS then check out comments above on wheel bearings, cleaning sensors and reading codes. Do you have records or know where this person got it worked on? Did it have aftermarket oil filter or aftermarket anything else? Some shops keep records (I’ve called and asked before). Or if it wasn’t a Subaru dealer then there’s a reasonable chance it was aftermarket. If it’s an aftermarket bearing that makes it much more suspicious

No - warn axle won’t impact alignment. Same with wheel sensor. Not axle related. 1. Inner Tire wear is most frequently alignment. If it was aligned properly and you have *no other symptoms* and they checked the bushings there’s no reason to think this isn’t fixed. 2. “noted the axle” - If that’s the main thing you had to relay to us, you can likely ignore it. Sounds like non-diagnostic conjecture. A well versed Subaru person would have given specifics about noise, play, boot, grease, inner, outer. 3. 2006s had mad ABS wheel sensor issues when they first came out. It’s as if the first year integrated ABS/wheel bearing assemblies took awhile for aftermarket suppliers to figure out. Happened all the time 15 years ago and if you’re not around Subarus a lot it’s easy to not know or forget that. If you think you have wheel sensor issues the most likely culprit if you don’t have any ABs light/trouble codes is an aftermarket wheel bearing installed awhile ago. You can Read the ABS codes if there’s a memory fucntion. Check for play, use a stethoscope while turning wheel by hand and use a temp gun to compare hub temps to the other side - all to assess possible wheel bearing failure. Though usually you can hear it. ive seen sensors covered in rust - remove sensor, blow off rust and reinstall - works like new. I’ve also seen sensors warn down to nubs and obviously bad. On your ABS is the ABS defititely triggering or are you just relaying “vibrating” and “shaking” from the driver (I think you indicated your wife drives this?) If it’s vibrating on braking the front rotors need turned. And the caliper bushings need checked. If you use normal old school caliper grease on those 2006 the pin bushings swell and cause braking issues. Have you ever use regular permatex caliper grease on these?

Southern CA, CO and SW US seems to be the best place for dry, rust free, and decent prices. Look hard - that’s a good opportunity! I’ve gotten a few from out there. Hope you can find something! You’re talking about most of my neighbors. They’re good people and will gladly help you change a flat and would be kind unless you’re loud, trying to pull one over on them, criticize, or disrupt their homes. They’re good folks but “Don’t tread on me”. The rock thrower types are usually reclusive and locals can eye roll when their names come up. I helped one diagnose and fix his daughters Subaru, gave him some parts…..and almost regret it. Hahaha.

I got my dates wrong. I think I’ll be around all weekend so I can do any date. full showers bathrooms and kitchen and noone else will be there. It is on a main street - so there’s some random traffic noise if you’re a light sleeper. But it’s only a 30,000 person town surrounded by mountains so not like a big city.

Where did most of the water pool up? Is there dry air in your area tomorrow? Do you have a garage or dehumidifier? Doors routinely get wet and windows and locks don’t work right, or at all, for a few days until it dries out. although a moonroof allows copious amounts of water so?! Dry it out: 1. Sop up as much water as possible with towels and under seats. Or water proof shopvacs. 2. Get the *air moving* and windows down. If you have a garage - put a fan in the vehicle with windows down. Or if it’s hot out leave windows cracked and car in sun. Or both - sun and fan w/windows cracked. Heat + air exchange is ideal it’ll dry out really quick You want as much cabin air exchange as possible as long as outside air isn’t high humidity If the windows are closed or you live in a humid environment the air reaches high humidity and becomes too saturated to allow more water to evaporate. Air movement is key. * Alternately in some situations you might leave all windows closed and run a dehumidifier if you do live in some high humidity climates or can let it run overnight. Ideally the car is left to dry only and not ever turned on. You don’t want wet electronics seeing voltages. But that’s almost impossible without severe cost and inconvenience.

But you won’t see any rust free Subarus here. Keep driving. Hahaha.

There’s some craptastic I70 congested one lane action on Rt 70 around Wheeling WV. If possible avoid high traffic times there. I just drove it yesterday. If you come across RT 68 June 5th you can crash at my office on the floor, I’ve got an inflatable, and I’ll buy you breakfast and talk less than 11 minutes Mon Morning. Probably a little out of your way but 68 is commonly used by frequent travelers to avoid I76 tolls and less traffic through the beautiful mountains of western Maryland. You won’t be the first board member who’s stayed in my office. I’m the only person there during summers. It’s just a minute off the interstate. But I’m not in town June 3/4. My house is way off the beaten bath, no cable no TV reception no internet probably no cell service and its a long way from the interstate, curvy mountain gravel roads so it’s not a convenient over night stop.

No toss up: 2002 ATs have removable shafts, MTs do not. Do just like nvu said and pop them right out. I’ve gotten used and JDM trans with one or both missing before (including 2002 automatics). No, but this brings up a good point. The seals around them are directional. The shafts are not. If they beat it enough to yank one side out and not the other then replace that seal, or carefully inspect it and make sure it has its inner sealing spring. I’ve seen those come out on axle yank jobs. As he said it’s directional L/R so get the correct side.