idosubaru

Wow. That’s a fantastic price. Thank you so much for posting back. I was very curious how this would work out.

Read the codes. I haven’t done one as new as 2014 but older models have a way of flashing the codes via the ABS light. Ground one pin and read the number of flashes. Read and post the codes. Guessing isn’t a good idea. Why do you say it’s related to the passengers seat? Steering wheel roll connector is most likely - when the light comes on does the horn still work?

This is the only symptom we have reasonable cause to believe still exists (assuming alignment fixed your alignment issue). “doesn’t also shake”? Did you mean it only vibrates while soft braking? First make sure this still happens after the alignment. Severely warn tires can “wobble” and steering wheel jitters may be solved with new tires and alignment. If symptoms still exist clarify if this is for sure ABS related. Vibrating while braking is standard turn/replace front rotors territory for Subarus. Or for models with caliper pin bushings check those bushings. And use synthetic bushing compatible grease only. I like SilGlyde If it is ABS then check out comments above on wheel bearings, cleaning sensors and reading codes. Do you have records or know where this person got it worked on? Did it have aftermarket oil filter or aftermarket anything else? Some shops keep records (I’ve called and asked before). Or if it wasn’t a Subaru dealer then there’s a reasonable chance it was aftermarket. If it’s an aftermarket bearing that makes it much more suspicious

No - warn axle won’t impact alignment. Same with wheel sensor. Not axle related. 1. Inner Tire wear is most frequently alignment. If it was aligned properly and you have *no other symptoms* and they checked the bushings there’s no reason to think this isn’t fixed. 2. “noted the axle” - If that’s the main thing you had to relay to us, you can likely ignore it. Sounds like non-diagnostic conjecture. A well versed Subaru person would have given specifics about noise, play, boot, grease, inner, outer. 3. 2006s had mad ABS wheel sensor issues when they first came out. It’s as if the first year integrated ABS/wheel bearing assemblies took awhile for aftermarket suppliers to figure out. Happened all the time 15 years ago and if you’re not around Subarus a lot it’s easy to not know or forget that. If you think you have wheel sensor issues the most likely culprit if you don’t have any ABs light/trouble codes is an aftermarket wheel bearing installed awhile ago. You can Read the ABS codes if there’s a memory fucntion. Check for play, use a stethoscope while turning wheel by hand and use a temp gun to compare hub temps to the other side - all to assess possible wheel bearing failure. Though usually you can hear it. ive seen sensors covered in rust - remove sensor, blow off rust and reinstall - works like new. I’ve also seen sensors warn down to nubs and obviously bad. On your ABS is the ABS defititely triggering or are you just relaying “vibrating” and “shaking” from the driver (I think you indicated your wife drives this?) If it’s vibrating on braking the front rotors need turned. And the caliper bushings need checked. If you use normal old school caliper grease on those 2006 the pin bushings swell and cause braking issues. Have you ever use regular permatex caliper grease on these?

Southern CA, CO and SW US seems to be the best place for dry, rust free, and decent prices. Look hard - that’s a good opportunity! I’ve gotten a few from out there. Hope you can find something! You’re talking about most of my neighbors. They’re good people and will gladly help you change a flat and would be kind unless you’re loud, trying to pull one over on them, criticize, or disrupt their homes. They’re good folks but “Don’t tread on me”. The rock thrower types are usually reclusive and locals can eye roll when their names come up. I helped one diagnose and fix his daughters Subaru, gave him some parts…..and almost regret it. Hahaha.

I got my dates wrong. I think I’ll be around all weekend so I can do any date. full showers bathrooms and kitchen and noone else will be there. It is on a main street - so there’s some random traffic noise if you’re a light sleeper. But it’s only a 30,000 person town surrounded by mountains so not like a big city.

Where did most of the water pool up? Is there dry air in your area tomorrow? Do you have a garage or dehumidifier? Doors routinely get wet and windows and locks don’t work right, or at all, for a few days until it dries out. although a moonroof allows copious amounts of water so?! Dry it out: 1. Sop up as much water as possible with towels and under seats. Or water proof shopvacs. 2. Get the *air moving* and windows down. If you have a garage - put a fan in the vehicle with windows down. Or if it’s hot out leave windows cracked and car in sun. Or both - sun and fan w/windows cracked. Heat + air exchange is ideal it’ll dry out really quick You want as much cabin air exchange as possible as long as outside air isn’t high humidity If the windows are closed or you live in a humid environment the air reaches high humidity and becomes too saturated to allow more water to evaporate. Air movement is key. * Alternately in some situations you might leave all windows closed and run a dehumidifier if you do live in some high humidity climates or can let it run overnight. Ideally the car is left to dry only and not ever turned on. You don’t want wet electronics seeing voltages. But that’s almost impossible without severe cost and inconvenience.

But you won’t see any rust free Subarus here. Keep driving. Hahaha.

There’s some craptastic I70 congested one lane action on Rt 70 around Wheeling WV. If possible avoid high traffic times there. I just drove it yesterday. If you come across RT 68 June 5th you can crash at my office on the floor, I’ve got an inflatable, and I’ll buy you breakfast and talk less than 11 minutes Mon Morning. Probably a little out of your way but 68 is commonly used by frequent travelers to avoid I76 tolls and less traffic through the beautiful mountains of western Maryland. You won’t be the first board member who’s stayed in my office. I’m the only person there during summers. It’s just a minute off the interstate. But I’m not in town June 3/4. My house is way off the beaten bath, no cable no TV reception no internet probably no cell service and its a long way from the interstate, curvy mountain gravel roads so it’s not a convenient over night stop.

No toss up: 2002 ATs have removable shafts, MTs do not. Do just like nvu said and pop them right out. I’ve gotten used and JDM trans with one or both missing before (including 2002 automatics). No, but this brings up a good point. The seals around them are directional. The shafts are not. If they beat it enough to yank one side out and not the other then replace that seal, or carefully inspect it and make sure it has its inner sealing spring. I’ve seen those come out on axle yank jobs. As he said it’s directional L/R so get the correct side.

Run your VIN or call Subaru and ask if all of your recalls and TSBs are up to date. Good grief. That’s terrible. What a wretched safety issue that is. I haven’t seen the auto stop/start feature but that’s unnerving if it’s inoperable. If someone doesn’t know and the sellers 6 month warranty is questionable or they don’t respond well I’d consider having Subaru diagnose it. I would bet they can diagnose this very quickly and probably know the one or two things it’s likely to be without even looking at it. I’m sure they’ve seen it before.

Nice - two birds with one stone! Well except you had to replace both bearings. Timken has an excellent reputation. I don’t think it’s what it once was and I believe their seal quality is less than OEM but chances are in your favor, it’s not like they fail all the time.

Great thanks for posting back. Glad you you were able to get it taken care of.

Wheel bearing. Other possibilities exist but wheel bearing would be “yep, no surprise with everything you’ve described so far.” Anything else would be “ah okay that happens sometimes”. It doesn’t change sound or feel when you press the brake pedal right?

Look up on Subaru parts website snd click then box that says “What this fits”...it may list both and confirm they’re identical if It doesn’t show both they’re probably still interchangeable It should be interchangeable but ive never done any manuals that new.

Sure thing. Hope it solves your issues.

In reference to my last post - the first ECU I found on car-part.com was $50 for your car. Better than the prices it looks like you're getting elsewhere. It was also from Colorado which has some plusses to it as I mentioned.

Ahhh - Looking at Subaru part numbers explains your confusion! Don't even look at ECU part numbers for Subaru! It's a hot mess - for some unknown reason Subaru has always changed ECU part numbers every 46 seconds even back to the 1980's vehicles, when those ECU's are identical, from the same vehicles, and interchange with no discernable difference at all. No immobilizer or canbus issues until 2005+ Use www.car-part.com and you should find some $20-$50 ECU's. their database is distorted by Subaru's part number systems as well, you just have to ignore it and work with the system a little. Buy from an automatic and tell the person you call it's for an automatic so they don't get confused. car-part is far superior to ebay - much more product options and better pricing usually. I've ordered probably a triple digit number of parts from various stores all over the US on car-part.com, they're all very accustomed to shipping parts. I have two boxes on my porch right now found through car-part.com. You can also order from preferable areas - like maybe buying an ECU from a less humid environment like Colorado or the SW is ideal for electrical components? Colorado is one of my favorites because they're usually very familiar with Subaru's, no rust, and almost never over priced.

The comment "rear passengers side" suggests (but doesn't confirm) it's isolated to something side specific. Driveshaft is usually notably center/not side specific. Riding/listening from the back while someone else drives can help confirm.

Is it leaking? I can read your post two different ways….”I can’t fix this exhaust leak…” or “I thought it was an exhaust leak but maybe it’s something else ….” which one is it? Use hands or paper immediately after starting a cold engine and you have a short time to run hands or paper around the entire circumference of the exhaust and work front to back of the vehicle to look for leaks. Might have to try a couple times. Y pipe donut gaskets are troublesome. Grind the exhaust housing where the gasket sits down to remove rust and make smooth with die grinder. Use new bolt and spring hardware from Subaru. Heat shields vibrating? Axles. Inner joints are the typical source if it’s doing it under load. Often just repacking with fresh grease will fix it. The old grease may be gone or pour out of the boot like soup.

Sorry you're on a road trip. Brus offfered to help me on a 1,500 mile road trip 2 years ago and here he is again! Did it randomly start happening or has it been getting progressively louder? If it starts getting worse quickly then that's a bad sign. I would guess it's the tire or the wheel bearing is aftermarket and noisy. The good news is that it'll come apart very easily if it was just done recently. I would replace with a Subaru unit. I'm not recommending anything since I can't see or experience it or know it's history but I'll drive failing OEM bearings thousands of miles until I can combine replacement with brakes or tire rotation/swap. In my experience if the noise isn't getting worse quickly and I don't have any *actual drivability symptoms* I'm not worried about OEM bearings. Symptoms - If the car has momentary walking (feels like a really brief slide on ice/snow in the rear) or loose steering feel, or the ABS light comes on (reduced clearances on the internal ABS parts will trigger the ABS light - those are signs the wheel bearing is actually failing verses just making noise. I've seen and driven Subarus with all of those symptoms before. Check for noise/feel, temp, or play - but they don't always exhibit symptoms at all. Noise/feel you can try to do by just rotating the tire by hand but works best with tire and brake pads removed - rotate and listen for noise or feel for a lumpy/lagging/dragging part of the rotation. Subaru's exhibit play so rarely, or the symptoms are so bad by the time they do exhibit play that this is the least effective test).

Okay. That works too. But there's no need to guess or research. I have swapped MT and AT ECU's, and done engine/trans swaps. There's one pin on the car side connector that determines automatic or manual: *without* that pin the ECU expects and runs as an automatic ECU *with* the pin, it runs manual All ECU's are the same, with no automatic or manual distinction, and the ECU adjusts accordingly based on that pin/wiring. The manual trans ECU you buy will be the same ECU as an automatic. The *only* difference is your body side ECU connector has one extra pin "telling" the ECU what it is. So when you convert an automatic transmission subaru to manual - you swap the transmission and then just address that one pinout, by grounding that one pin - to "tell" the ECU it's now a manual. It's that simple. And so is buying a manual trans ECU!

Automatic ECU should swap fine. Subaru used the same ECU between auto's and manuals for a loooong time. That's why when converting an automatic to manuals trans you don't need to swap the ECU.

That cars future issues will be if the headgaskets weren’t done well and having the original or aftermarket timing belt and pulleys. All of which are far more problematic than Subaru 4EAT auto transmissions. I’d install new subaru/AISIN timing kit. $300-$400 in parts. If you don’t want to put the money in it, install a new Subaru belt and Subaru lower cogged idler. inspect the tensioner and other pulleys (just spin them and see how much grease is still in them). If you can DIY small things you can do those two items in an hour. they cost $100 and are the most likely items to fail due to being aftermarket or never replaced which that low idler rarely is.

Use AISINs online catalog to look up the kit number you need. edit - I just did and they only listed one for turbo-charged?! Odd. Ive never tried but maybe you can contact them and ask? I’ve heard of people getting responses from them about timing belts before That’s wild 2006 has a one year water pump. Still an EJ so it must be the same with a minor difference .