idosubaru

1. you're positive the radiator is full? (it's possible to fill it up one day after doing some work - then by the next day a bunch of air bubbles have dropped the level showing in the radiator neck) 2. after running it a few times - is the amount of coolant in the system getting lower? 3. is coolant coming out of the exhaust? 4. what work was done to it? 5. are there any leaks? 6. are the fans coming on? 7. are there bubbles in the overflow tank? 8. how long did this car sit?

History: This transmission had a damaged pan which damaged a few solenoid connectors 45,000 miles ago. I replaced the pan and replaced the connectors. Are any of the solenoids/wiring under the pan related to the Torque Converter?

I forgot one symptom - car will drift back a little bit if on a hill at a stop light before it goes forward. Complete symptoms: Torque converter clutch circuit OBDII code - reset and it'll come back. Sometimes noisy in the front - particularly at start up in Park/Neutral. Ocassionally (rarely) stall at a red light Car will drift backwards a little bit on a hill from a stop before going forward. Otherwise it drives great, never any suddering or issues and i've done some hundreds of mile trips in it. Is this mechanical TC failure or an electrical/solenoid failure - something controlling pressure/input to the TC?

Okay it seems like you're probably right leaning toward the torque converter... A couple times it'll make a rather loud whirring sort of noise up front - normally think it's a bearing or something. It'll be loud in park - then seems to go away in reverse, and drive or diminsh. And I think it goes away once the car is warmed up. (it's driving fine - i've taken some few hundred mile road trips and no issues and don't seem to be getting worse). Can the TC make noise? Would that most likely be the TC itself failing or a solenoid operating/related to the TC? I just scrapped my spare TC for this trans of course. LOL

I was thinking the same thing. any signs or knowledge of prior engine work? Sounds like maybe this thing wasnt maintained well or driven hard? Heads shaved a ton? Lol

00-04 legacy and outback. Not later years mentioned in the first reply. There are heated and non heated but they are interchangeable. Just don't hook up the heating elements. I concur I would just have one installed. Get a warranty and won't have to pay for two if you break one. Did you Price out glass, tool, gasket, gas to go get it yet?

And there you go - quantitative proof of everything I detailed. Often, if these cars mentioned were taken to a mechanic/shop, they would replace the pump. The new pump wasnt needed but it did "fix it" only incidentally. Happens all the time. Mechanics aren't to blame necessarily though, there are practical constraints they have to work around too, particularly those that don't specialize. They simply can't know all the various failure modes of every manufacturer and vehicle and changes they've made over the years. And while Subaru steering component failure is rare, that's not true of other manufacturers, so mechanics see plenty of pump and other issues, so a diagnosis that looks weird to us (highly specialized) looks normal to some.

Great motor - far better than an EJ25 that car came with. At that age/mileage it needs new timing pulleys and yensioner too. Kits for that engine or kits with the right pulleys (if you reused existing belt) are cheap. For purchasing I find the seller says a lot more about the car than the car itself. Where did they get it, are they honest and communicate well, why are they "really" getting rid of it? The reason they say and the real reason can easily differ. The doctors cars who were clearly moving or recently retired have always been far better vehicles than the ones from less communicative, more to hide, want a buck type people.

I'm not real big on trans rebuilds. who did the rebuild, what was replaced, and if it has a warranty - 12 months/12,000 miles is common sometimes up to 36 months 36k? Otherwise they can be made reliable high mileage daily drivers. Struts, ujoints, bushings, caliper slide pins, knock sensor, idle control, P0420, alternator and fuel pump are the most common older Subaru maintenance points/failure items. I routinely replace knock sensors because they're so easy and cheap. 15 minutes and $10 on eBay. The last two on that list are the ones most likely to leave you stranded and the two I focus on the most for reliability and not getting stranded. I usually aim for new Subaru alternator and fuel pump around 150-200k because expecting 300k+ is a stretch and they can give little warning and strand you. they're expensive from Subaru, availability can vary, and aftermarket a are terribly unreliable for 100,000 mile use. Stranded and not sways an easy/ideal solution if they do fail. Keeping a used OEM spare on hand or replacing with low mileage OEM used are cheaper alternatives.

In general pre 2005 stuff (except 2004 PEZV whatever) is basically simpler and just like 1990s EJ22's with very simple changes you'll adjust to very quickly. 2005 (& 04 PEZV whatever) starts to get more cumbersome and complicated with active valve systems and controls, 3, 4, 5 O2 sensors, ECU starts to actually use the rear O2 sensor, drive by wire, CANBUS, chipped keys you can no longer easily get a back up key, an absolutely beastly remote programming sequence.... Yours is easy peasy. In other words you made a great choice!

Your forester only has one front O2 sensor, very simple. and a rear sensor as well. Replace front O2. Subaru had some kind of recall/initiative for failing front O2 sensors of some 2002's. It included an ECU reflash (very rare for pre-2005 stuff) in some cases. Your code and mileage suggest it's simply time to replace a consumable part but might be worth noting that specific issue to google it if needed in the future.

Replace knock and O2 sensors for 1 & 5. Emissions - check does the forester have that black box contraption under the back passengers side rear corner? Look for damage, mud, rust there. Those head gaskets leak externally. Yours usually coolant, sometimes oil. Check coolant levels regularly. If it gets too low it'll overheat due to low coolant but not directly like older EJ25 head gaskets. Replaced head gaskets, if they fail, have wider variation of failure modes. Can overheat without coolant being low. Add Subaru Coolant Conditioner now and any coolant refill. Subaru had a recall and extended 100,000 mile head gasket warrNty on 00-02 models. Might be able to ask Subaru if that car was ever worked On on the past.

Haha Crazyeight you might be joking and I get that but goodness I write too much, poor forum. I'm glad one person maybe actually got something from that diatribe. Lol

Leak - you're sure it's not the hose or oring fittings? Common leak points. You can reseal the pumps - this is for 2004 and earlier but for example $17.95 here: http://m.ebay.com/itm/190895609077?fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3AOutback I wouldn't maybe do this for other cars but Subaru power steering systems are robust and spending inordinate money on new OEM isn't worth it and aftermarket is s downgrade. So this is a good option.

I agree - pointless to get an aftermarket pump. If it needs a pump (which I doubt, more on that later), get a used one. Subaru pumps routinely last 200,000 miles/life of the car. Get a used one www.car-part.com They're so easy to replace the labor is a nonissue - it takes 30 minutes. Subaru pumps since they typically last 200k, there is zero demand, you can buy a pump for $25 all day long, and the risk of catastrophic failure is near zero. $25 part, cheaper and better than aftermarket. A note about 5-10 years - that's not accurate. Maybe 20% failure rate (totally made up number for illustration purposes). The notion that they "last 5-10 years" is classic misinterpretation - correlation does not mean causation. People that don't know better inaccurately associate 5-10 years or 100k-150k to all sorts of failure modes that aren't accurate for subarus. younger cars more likely go to dealer. older more likely to be nonexistent or done at home by DIY folks, or traded in/junked with a looming repair. 5-10 year old subarus are just the most common cars a mechanic sees because that's mostly just what's on the road and the type of folks typically going to independent shops. And the mechanic likely doesn't have keen eyes on how many older/high mileage Subarus that have never had the pump replaced. He just sees the failed ones. When you specialize and see the same subarus for 5-10 years you see clear trends a general mechanic isnt privy too. I can make a huge list of older high mileage subarus all with original pumps. I'm probably forgetting one but I've never even replaced a failed Subaru power steering pump (ignoring electric pumps most mechanic doesn't even know exists). ive repaired lots of issues that would have resulted in pump replacement at a shop (see below). Subaru power steering pump failure is extremely rare. it's more likely misdiagnosed instead of needing a pump. Most Subaru pump replacements are actually other issues. i would verify the diagnosis - what's it doing? If leaking you can reseal the pump. Get the Subaru kit, OEM quality and cheaper. If making noise then an oring or hose causes aeration and whining or belt (very common in 05-09's), or the 00-04 model misadjusted shroud issues, these need repaired. They're all easy cheap fixes. If lumpy feeling steering it's the steering rack ujoint.

I'd pass on warranty, they make money, not you. Over the course of owning multiple cars you'll make out better ignoring extended warranties (not withstanding outlier experiences where you might argue your way into a free one on a new vehicle to make a deal, etc). There's a lot of reasons it would be a good fit- If you're the paranoid type or really limited on time, or you'll hate Subaru/your car if you have to deal with a repair on your own, want to think about cars as little as possible, or don't care about the cost and typically pay for lots of things that are novelty, excess etc - then it's probably a good fit for you to get it. Also - a wheel bearing should cost $300 (or less) - not $1,200 so don't let the absurd third party circumstantial, anecdotal cost quote scare you. $150 parts and an hour or two labor - no big deal. Your maintenance intervals are here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/maintenance-2015.html there's no CVT required replacement. It's just fluids and filters - find a good shop/prices and get THOSE services done (not a 30k service package). pay for the exact replacement/required items on that list - not a 30k service. they sound the same, and seems like it should be, but they are drastically different in scope. you can search and read about why, i'm no rewriting it for the 54th time. fuel injector cleaner Chux mentioned - i wouldn't pay for that- i, and many others, routinely drive Subaru's to a quarter million miles without any fuel treatments, they're highly unnecessary for most new car purchasers who rarely keep vehicles long anyway, though i'd never use them and i plan on 300,000 out of my Subarus. if you want to drive it 500k+ then maybe look into the treatments. Have you increased your liability insurance limits? put money there (home and auto), it's cheap too. i'd max those out and protect myself from the 5 and 6 figure risk before a drop in the bucket 3 or 4 digit one.

I've done lots of SRS airbag stuff too. Also easy. Just swap in new bags (belts if equipped) and controller if needed (2004 and earlier isn't necessary to replace controller but lots of sets of front bags come with a used controller). Just don't get a used bag subject to the massive airbag recalls.).

Actually what I meant to say is it'll never be right, you'll have issues for ever, and you're over your head. I'll buy it from you for $800. Lol

Easy peasy. Been there done that. The top radiator supports are flimsy and non structural, pointless to replace, pull them back close as you can get and bolt on parts and run it another 100k. If front fender rail bolt won't line up just ignore them there's bunches of bolts holding that thing on. Pull with straps to line up new parts. Tow strap and a tree or a winch or even another car to pull as needed. Porta Powers are great but most people don't have them and hard to fit with engine in situ. I've had one I rebuilt from a 70 mph deer hit years later spin out at 75 mph on interstate, front into gaurd rail - spun around then crushed rear. It held up great, prior accident made no difference, 4 passengers fine and I rebuilt it again - though as a POS beater I let people borrow to help them out for extended periods of time. I'd fix that in a couple hours without even worrying about cutting/welding/front clip.

Ahhhhhh okay. You guys have had a hard time bleeding MCs before? I wonder how many MCs are deemed failed because they just need bled? Think that happens?

you never actually said if they failed a pressure test? Or did the shop just balk? - a machine shop will take one look at an EA/ER head and deny the heads due to cracks. but the problem is those cracks are normal. cracks between the valves is normal - run them. nearly every EA82/ER27 on the road today has cracks between the valves, Subaru even calls it normal. usually machine shops freak out when they see those. Very few shops will know about that EA specific issue. they can repair them with "stitch pins" but it's all but pointless to do so. GD says they'll just crack again even if repaired, though i've never seen that myself.

I got it working now. while bleeding (two methods - pedal and one man pressurized tank on MC tool) there was no end to the air bubbles, pedal had zero resistance. Probably pushed the pedal 50-100 times at each wheel. Also used a one man pressurized tool to push fluid through. It wasn't the method. I shortened my pedal travel (not pushing to floor) and bled for the 4th time and it worked. Probably coincidence, maybe not? I think it had so much air in the system from driving with leaking fluid/empty MC, it just took forever to get all the air out. And because of all the air not much fluid was moving in the beginning either. Id pump the pedal 20 or 30 times and the reservoir level would barely drop. Today it dropped much faster once I got close to the end. Every Subaru I've bled was easy. But with a caliper or MC repair you just get localized air bubbles, I've replaced calipers and just bled that one line lots of times even though it's said you "can't do that". Easy peasy. I think this time the air was wide spread and far more of it.

I tried the ABS cycling and it wouldn't work by grounding the appropriate pins, the ABS never cycled. But I've bled ABS cars before without doing the ABS sequence thing.

My 2002 OBW daily driver: The rear caliper banjo bolt was loose and leaked much of the fluid in the system. I've pumped the pedal at least 50 times at each caliper and pedal still goes to the floor. Is there tons of air from going empty or the MC was compromised from going dry?

Under the inner tie rod boots, are steering racks usually dry and clean or smeared with greasy wet residue? was gonna install a used xt6 rack. I pulled a inner tie rod boot and the shaft was wet and smeary but not pooled up and the boot was not wet on the outside and showed no leakage. I don't have any others to look at and The other side boot was already removed and cleaned up for storage so that's not a comparison. Im not sure if it was previously leaking or this is normal residual grease. I'm hesitant to install what might be another leaking rack. I haven't paid much attention to how the grease/shaft looks when doing inner tie rod stuff before. XT6's use a golden fluid, not red so color is no aid here. Do I have a 100% chance of leaking or only the standard 50% of a used rack ? Lol