idosubaru

with the new transmission was a new clutch and pressure plate installed? if it's slipping - i wonder if the clutch is slipping or the pressure plate is weak (and has never been replaced?)

when it's on - read the code. there's a grounding pin above the brake pedal - ground it and the ABS light flashes the code. look up the procedure, pins, and where to place the pin to get the light to flash. it takes like 7 minutes, just need to find the thread detailing how to do it, super easy. a sensor can be caked up with gunk or corroded, in which place you clean or replace it. might be other issues too - best to get that code when the light is on.

lstevens comments seemed factual? he just stated some facts right - no big deal - JDM's are available with warranty and colorado doesn't have rust issues. both true? In the end you're both right. his point was about rust, not snow. Colorado vehicles see snow - but not rust. Subaru's out west still have the original exhaust, it's nuts driving around out there and seeing all the 1980's Subaru's still driving around. My 2002 H6 replacement exhaust came from a parts car in Colorado - complete OEM Subaru exhaust. My 1988 XT6 also has the original OEM exhaust still on i.

auto or manual? have you checked the fluid level? as he said - does it rev and not do anything or is it like a clutch slipping or is there bucking...etc.

I'd test drive another one - just to make sure since you're asking. Though you sound completely sold. cars101.com has lots of measurements, i think even sometimes has pictures of dogcrates in the back - go check it out, it's very informative. Is it that big of a savings in all areas to buy a two year old Subaru? The prices are high in many areas. It's a good plan and I recommend it, but it's simply buying a cheaper car, I dont think depreciation is being avoided. Two year old Subarus on dealer lots carry a premium price tag and "take a hit" as soon as they drive off the dealer lot as well. The average consumer is unlikely to turn around and sell it for what they paid for it. I think it's just paying less for an older vehicle, rather than tricking the market. I know it's more complicated than this but to keep it simple, my local dealer today: 2013 Premium $24,200 2015 Premium $25,300. Pretty small difference for 40,000 miles and a new car.

does it fit in the confined space of exhaust nuts? that would be a nice hit if it did.

great, thanks. i do have a dremel i've never used it before. i believe it's missing a few pieces so now would be a good time to get it operational anyway.

1. radiator is clogged 2. there's a coolant leak and fluid gets low/overheats 3. headgasket - pushing exhaust gases into the coolant 4. fans not coming on

Great, thanks. I have oxy-propane. I think I'll try everything suggested... I'll torch and weld just for the heating up. Then hammer a 13mm socket on there. Then get the Sears kit. Wow that van job sounds terrible - how long did the bolt/nut extraction take?

2006 Tribeca EZ30. I accidentally picked a 12 point socket and stripped the nut and a 6 point spun too once the edges were already weakend (the nuts are rusty and tight - I did the rest by hand and needed a 3 foot pipe to break them loose). 1. I'll try to weld another nut on top of it if the rusty stud allows it. I2. 'll try a chisel at an angle to loosen the nut - but i highly doubt that will work as tight as they are. Might torch throws a rather large flame I can't imagine getting under the vehicle without burning something up that way - I guess I need to learn how to use a torch and dial the flame in correctly. It should be possible to use my torch under the engine to burn that nut off? Nut splitters look cool but I don't think there's room for those. Any other options...will a die grinder fit up there?

there's only one necessary one, Subaru requires the Coolant conditioner in Phase II EJ25's and it helps mitigate external coolant leaks that sometimes happen in EZ engines as well. otherwise, entertain them only if you're addressing an issue.

breaking camber bolts? that's hard to believe, sounds like hyped up apocalyptic talk from guys that don't do much more than change their own oil. lol

It's hard to imagine a 340,000 mile car worth much more than the cheapest junk yard engine you can find, but over this way everything rusts and the bushing/boots suck after that much time and mileage. Subaru manual transmissions...they can last and they can fail. If you don't have issues now, change the oil, drive it lightly and you should be good to go.

What brand silicon boots did you get? How long have they lasted? Are they on a lifted subaru? Yep, I've seen new axles do just about anything - clicking out of the box, vibrating out of the box, and blowing to pieces in less than 100 feet before even making it to the road.

+1 you're exempt from readiness monitors, so smog is not a concern. as to why you've never had the issue before but do now - no idea. swap in another ECU and see what happens?

Oh - and you can even test it - get under the car and pack a load of grease up into the joint - squishing it all up in there as much as you can. then drive....is it clicking? if the clicking goes away - then it's gonna be fine when properly cleaned and booted.

I'd reboot it - if it's the original Subaru OEM axle it'll likely quiet it right up. I've done it a bunch of times. If it just broke and slung grease and started clicking - it'll be perfectly quiet if you clean and reboot it. I've never yet rebooted a noisy axle that wasn't quiet afterwards...granted I choose wisely I don't just reboot any rusted clunking unknown axle I find. Also - i've driven 50,000+ miles multiple times on broken boot front CV joints that are clicking, the OEM axles won't break unless you're driving in sand or other abrasive stuff. And 100,000+ miles on rear axles, I've never bothered replacing them when they boots broken because they're not gonna fail for normal use. Aftermarket axles are nowhere near that robust - if you replace it you're probably throwing away an axle that will last another 10 years and buying one that won't. Just google "subaru axles" or "subaru aftermarket axles" or something like that and read a billion years about how problematic they are. I don't even know how many bad axles i've seen new right out of the box, I had a brand new one explode in less than 100 feet after installing it. I'm done with it, my time is too valuable to dork with that stuff. But I get how easy and cheap...and NOT MESSY lol...they are, so that's why everyone does it.

+1 to what they said. check valve clearance too - that's essentially free, just labor. i've been wanting to ask this anyway - what happens if the igniter gets wonky? can it throw a misfire code or would it be a pair of codes or all of them? if you're frustrated I'd spend some time googling cylinder misfires in 00-09 Subaru's and read everything you can, i'm betting you'll find a few non-typical (not spark plugs, wire, or coil pack), that might give you some direction. the 00-09 4 cylinders are all similar enough (all the blocks are interchangeable even the headgaskets are interchangeable) that the info should help.

yep - have them pressure tested and resurfaced

i'm about to throw some EA82 timing covers away, if i have that one i'll ship you the entire set for $35 or come pick them up for free.

Hey look it's tim! very cool!

He already said it but that's not a vehicle that has ever existed in the US. 99 Forester is SOHC EJ25 (the first year of the SOHC EJ25 - it is like 2000-2004 EJ25's) 98 Forester is DOHC - the only year forester with DOHC - it is the same engine installed in 1997-1999 Outbacks and GT's (and 1996 automatic Outbacks). The two engines are not compatible electronically - get the wiring harness and ECU for whichever engine you have. For that matter any 1996-1999 legacy even with an EJ22 will work for wiring/ECU of a 1998 forester - they are interchangeable plug and play those two engines.

there is little consensus because everyone is right - brand is insignificant. oil rules: follow the owners manual. turbo's - always use synthetic. gobs of people run 250,000 miles without issue buying whatever is on sale - they don't claim that approach causes the engine to last 250,000 miles. indeed they don't even talk about oil because they know it doesn't matter and it's simple: follow the owners manual.

No. It's like this: If you take a chisel and put a small nick that doesn't interfere with anything on top of the engine block. does it hurt anything? No. It's marked and has a "crack" but it's benign, it doesn't interfere with anything mechnically. Pound the chisel away for hours until the block cracks through to something important - then will you have issues? Of course. Typical EA82/ER27 cracks are like the first example - they're surface aberrations that lead nowhere. They can always be pressure tested to see if the cracks are benign or not. In turbo engines and severely abused/overheated engines the cracks can enlarge and spread into the coolant and combustion chamber leading to coolant coming out the exhaust ports. But the average engine won't see that.

nice job getting that done. vacuum lines are usually different for a variety of reasons - cruise control has a vacuum line, other solenoids need vacuum. those are always easily worked out. i haven't seen that many but i thought all EJ18's had EGR so not surprised you found some hints of it.