idosubaru

exhaust is annoying. i should have mentioned - cut as absolutely little pipe off as possible so it's not too long of a gap or the metal starts to bend, making fitment really tricky. done that multiple times...GAH. good job worknig around it. so if you were at my house 2 weeks ago - i was cutting out the rear quarter and welding in new metal due to rust. i opened the gas cap and cut through the metal there, just under the filler pipe and welded in the new metal there as well. that would have freaked you out? HA HA it freaked me out too actually. i had the cap on obviously and insulated it some with shirts, etc...still a little creepy and hope to never do that again with gas in the tank.

Gah. PM sent.

Description is hard to read drain the front diff fluid and check for bits, chunks, debris. sounds like the front differentional. other possibilities: heat shields front axle inner joints transmission input shaft bearings or main shaft bearings. for front diff or bearings just replace the transmission: www.car-part.com

maybe ask around some local glass shops and ask if they've ever seen a vehicle (not model) break multiple windshields over and over? they do this every day, maybe ask the ones that have been around a long time/are large? tell the installer - ask if there's any prep, frame, sealant issues that could be happening? i've never had a problem. replace and it never happens again. so i've never paid attention to brand.

of course, tear it up. hadn't heard you mention it yet, wondered if this was a new development, reason!

cracksmoker, a stroke! ah!! why a lifted tribeca?

ha ha, yes that's my thread started for this same issue with no resolution either. thanks for those articles, saved. they don't show illumuniation/dimming functionality but do show that entire frontal area as an integrated electronic unit. no lift, i lifted Tribeca sounds hysterical though.

yes - the digital display inside the dials: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/y2L-zy1hUT0/maxresdefault.jpg mine looks exactly like that - DARK! LOL cracksmoker. i'm too dumb to read electrical stuff in the FSM. Oh right - it's digital so the entire display is going to be integrated...grrrrr....how dumb. might be a dealership trip for this.

ha ha ha ha!! nipper - magic smoke, it's July 4th - I'll try it TONIGHT!!!!! Someone said on the tribeca it's in the BIU and it wasn't clear why dimming would affect only the HVAC controls and not the other lights. Tracking this seems cumbersome, few peopel know the Tribeca, replacing BIU's sounds unfamiliar...there has to be a way to simply power those lights myself. Okay nipper - how about a variable resistor in a fused power wire to the lights? Set the variable resistor and leave it?

In my Tribeca, the HVAC control dials are large and have digital displays inside of them. They are permanently on the "low/dim" side of the dimmer and are 100% unreadable during daylight. They don't change with lights on/off or the dimmer switch - so they're only readable at night. How can I run a power wire to the lights and make them permenantly bright? What happens if I just run a straight fused 12 volt power wire to the power supply light for the lights in those dials? Is that all it is - a power wire with a resistor to vary brightness?

Install EJ25 with EJ25 flexplate (if auto) and EJ25 exhaust manifold. Block off EJ25 EGR tube if the 97 doesn't have EGR - which manuals often do not (complete EGR info in link below). DONE - your questions aren't needed. Coil pack doesn't matter - EJ25 plug wires and EJ25 wiring harness that plugs into the EJ25 coil pack. Whether the EJ22 is the same is immaterial. Everything you need to know is right here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153118-ej22-or-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle/

looks like this was never answered but i don't know - the only way it'll fail is if they visually know how to inspect the mechanical components. it'll pass all electrical and emissions test if done properly.

could swap that head - EJ22 heads are super easy to replace insitu without pulling the engine. i've had EJ blocks with the pistons rammed through the block and heads bashed to bits.

if you can weld you might even be able to try and bridge all those holes via welding and weld the front two pipes together insitu. not ideal but cheap.

and +1 the wrap stuff doesn't work, i'm surprised it still even sells but i guess in some limited applications it can help. bad rust just isn't one of them.

JB weld stuff for the rear hanger portion splice in a piece of pipe on the front most section. or just ignore it? you can probably just hang it and leave it for a few months/year if you're broke. you can buy sections of pipe/clamps adapters online for cheaper. or buy online through advance auto parts and use discount coupons to get minimum 20% off - usually 30% and sometimes 40% off. order online - choose pick up location at local store - and go pick it up for a significant savings. i imagine autozone and others do the same thing.

yes you can drive it without the belt - you won't have any alternator generating power though so you'll be running entirely on the battery. you won't have AC or power steering but it's easiler drivable, check engine light may come on, just ignore it. if you have another battery, take it along to swap out. turn everything off - disconnect your headlights if daytime driving so they're not running in daytime running mode. any light or anything powered - don't use it. no radio, no fan, no lights to conserve power. the belt is super easy to replace - just put a long wrench on the 12 or 14mm tensioner pulley bolt and push it down...route belt....let the wrench go. you don't need to remove any bolts to replace it - except that plastic engine cover if it's in place. you also want to check and see if the pulleys caused the belt to fail - the two pulleys routinely fail, the bearings seize. very common issue. best to replace those bearings every 60,000 miles - 6203 bearings at like $10 each. tap the old ones out, tap the new ones in. there's quite a few threads about it, google it when you're ready. *but main point being - they may have failed and caused thsi belt to break. check and make sure they both spin freely.

disc brake hitting something or front diff check front diff gear oil level and condition. if drained, check for bits, chunks, or metal in the oil. aftermarket axles are prone to issues - so make certain it's not one of them - even the "new" axle. if the sound absolutely made no change before/after the axle replacement then it's probably not the axle - even a junk axle would probably make at least a different noise. a wheel bearing might cause this - but that's not a normal symptom and you would probably have some inclination as to whether it was the left or right side causing it. having someone stand outside and listen or hanging out the front windows might help determine if it's left, right, or central. left/right would suggest wheel bearing. central would suggest front diff (if you're positive it's not he axles). generally a used transmission is used to repair that. www.car-part.com

or have yours rebuilt - a local electrical shop or do it it yourself - replace the bearings and bushings. the voltage regulator you probably won't have available though, but the other stuff is fairly generic.

correct. identical valves and structure. the "cracks" actually aren't "cracks" in the typical sense. nearly every XT6 (and EA82 4 cylinder) on the road today has those cracks between the valves - they are normal. they are benign surface cracks which do not continue down into water jackets or exhaust ports so they run 300,000 miles like that without issue. they "can" crack deep enough to extend into the exhaust ports - but that is very rare and usually only happens with overheated EA82T's - 4 cylinder turbo engines.

automatic or manual? can you easily swap in another ECU and see what happens? does it currently have a non-EGR engine and non-EGR intake manifold? or are they EGR deleted engine and manifold? if it wasn't doing it for years and then all of a sudden started giving you this code - there's more to this than an engine swap/difference. more work than you want, but a work around is to install an EGR equipped manifold, remove the EGR and then simply reroute vaccum lines for the solenoid to make the ECU happy - there's a thread on here about it. or dig into the wiring and see what the ECU wants to see regarding the EGR solenoid that trips this code - and splice it in place with vacuum tubes strategcially placed as mentioned.

replacing the water pump really isn't that hard. the timing belt can be removed in less than an hour - the water pump is 5 bolts to remove - cleaning up the surface of the block is annoying but it's just clean up. scrape and scrub it clean and smooth. the only special tool you'll need is a 22mm socket - not special just bigger than most sets provide. that's for the crank pulley. other htan that basic hand tools and a little resolve and the timing belts on these engines aren't hard at all. while it's apart i'd install a complete timing belt kit for that car - they're like $120 or something for a Gates kit on Amazon. new belt, pulleys, tensioner. i do those as routine maintenance to keep older vehicles reliable, very common practice.

verify the source of the leak - can you post a picture of where it's leaking? 1. the thermostat housing can leak too - they can even sometimes crack. that's easy and only 2 10mm bolts to replace. 2. the water pump gasket - if it's been replaced before the aftermarket gaskets are cardboard and prone to leak. 3. it's not the radiator - they can crack and leak. if you replace the water pump use a Subaru OEM gasket - they're metal stamped and much higher quality.

Operationally all the EJ stuff is the same for like 15 years - a Duty C solenoid controls pressure to the 4WD transfer clutches. From reading some literature - Subaru has varied the number of clutches in the clutch pack - so maybe you can look into that for more "grab" considering how hard you probably run stuff. I think the XT6, which had the 4EAT like EJ vehicles, had more cluches than the 4 cylinder version from reading the FSM - but i've never paid much close attention. Other than that, they're all the same for 15 years - from like 1990 - 2004. Cut power wire to the Duty C solenoid and you have fully locked transfer clutches - "locked" 4WD. It'll bind on pavement and hop like the older gen stuff with Diff Locks/4WD. Find the one Duty C wire and cut it - and you're done, it's that easy. Or what most people do is splice in a switch so you can toggle between "locked" and nominal TCU control. Starting around 2003 or 2004 Subaru reversed the operation of that solenoid in EJ vehicles - and it needs fully powered to "lock" the transfer clutches, so it still works the same way but the opposite. In general EJ22 vehicles get 4.11 final drives and EJ25's get 4.44 final drives. Not sure what EJ18's get.

if it happens in neutral - wouldn't that essentially rule out the engine? alignment?