idosubaru

I'd work towards getting an FSM, they can be found free online, then you have everything you need in the future. i doubt i've ever used a torque wrench on those, they're not a big deal and neither of those numbers will strip the threads.

if the existing engine has been significantly overheated or is questionable, then used EJ22's become a great option. buy one from a wreck and choose wisely and you can almost guarantee you get a good running properly maintained engine. some yards will even run them, compression test them, warranty them. i understand the resistance though.

Same symptoms before and after the job suggests whatever was replaced wasn't the issue to begin with. 1. what parts are "the same" on both the original and "new" engine? The intake manifold? If so - I'd swap that or look there to repair.

Confirming a blown headgasket would be step 1 - I guess the smoke screen the clearest symptom? Is there any other way for coolant intrusion - throttle body/idle controller? If, as it seems, the headgaskets are bad, the condition of this engine is unknown - maybe awesome, maybe not. repeat failures happen regularly when cheap (ebay) gaskets are used. but if the headgaskets were replaced that is suggestive of a significant prior overheating event to cause them to fail. It's not hard to find EJ22's around here for reasonable prices - might be worth looking into getting a used EJ22. then again - that year EJ22 is about the easiest Subaru headgasket ever to replace - just look at the headbolts, they're staring right at you in the engine bay, all external. remove intake, exhaust, and unbolt the heads. cake. Typically: 1. resurface the heads and use a Subaru or high quality head gasket. you don't replace head bolts in a Subaru and ARP studs would be silly on that engine. properly done, an uncompromised Phase I Ej22 will never blow a headgasket. resurface is good for proper RA finish. there's a thread on here about how to resurface yourself - it's super easy, do it.

you posted in the new gen forum but are working on a 1988 dl? in general you haven't told us what you have already done but general brake problems should go something like this: 1. change the fluid 2. clean, regrease caliper slides 3. replace any rusty/corroded/compromised slides 4. replace brake pad hardware 5. make sure pads fit properly - not too tight - they often need filed down i have heard of the hoses being bad from age. they swell alittle and reduce the volumetric efficency of the brakes. now that i think about it that was the only thing i didn't change. lesson learned,change the soft brake lines at least once everycouple of years. that's really only true of other manufacturers, not Subaru's. i've seen internally collapsed and failed hoses even on relatively new vehicles - eventhough I almost never work on anything except Subarus - but I have never seen that on a Subaru, the OEM hoses typically last the life of the vehicle.

+1 my 2002 OBW has had it since I've owned the car over 100,000 miles ago - 5 or 6 years. Oddly it went off for a few months earlier this year..!??!!?? What!?!? Odd since it's literally never been off for like 5 years.

+1 - buying the extender will buy you time even if you don't like that as a permanent solution so you can properly trouble shoot too without it being a debacle on your hands.

A complete tune up is a good first start - stuff that should be up to date anyway. Plugs, wires, air filter, PCV valve. Where are they? Exhaust leaks are not good. Take care of those. I generally replace front O2 sensors just simply because I don't plan on the original sensor lasting 300,000 miles so I might as well replace it preemptively rather than wait for symptoms and compromised gas mileage. It will usually come to stay - google P0420 - it's an awful annoyance. Often they're very tricky to diagnose. Mechanics usually just install a new converter and call it good. It's also meaningless in 2002's - it's not used by the ECU. you can cut the rear O2 sensor off and the car will run completely 100% fine for the life of the vehicle and can still pass the sniff test (though they won't test it with the code showing obviously). for that same reason - i'd install an O2 extender or resistor to just trick it. gas mileage is a better litmus test as to how well the engine is running. poor mileage = fix your car.

Remove two lower 14mm engine mount nuts. Remove upper engine dogbone mount - one bolt. With only those three fasteners removed you can now jack the engine up and get enough room to easily pull the heads with the engine in the vehicle. Once the intake manifold and exhaust are out of the way you can jack the side of the engine up that you're pulling. In order to avoid repeat failures, follow these two steps: 1. use Subaru Turbo EJ25 headgaskets, this one: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Subaru-11044AA642-GASKET-CYLINDER/dp/B00BGGBQ6Y 2. resurface the heads. that's easily done yourself as well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ Install a complete Gates timing belt kit, they're like $125 on Amazon for new belt, idlers, and tensioner and you're good for another 100,000 miles.

google search shows others asking and it seems most 1995 impreza's are OBDI. there are some reports of OBDII possibly in 2.2 engines and LX models. OBDII connector at lower left where they usually are in other impreza's. two oxygen sensors indicates OBDII as OBDI only has one. OBDI you can get to flash the code by connecting some connectors under the dash. actually can't you retrieve codes this way in some newer OBDII Subaru's, i've seen a procedure before, but maybe it's much newer ones, like 2005 or something?

Those motors are awesome. With minimal work and $100 in parts that car would probably run another 100,000 miles with few issues. Check codes - they will tell you what is wrong. Look for the plug connector he is talking about. Lower left of steering column usually. Blinking indicates multiple cylinder misfires: 1. plugs - best to use OEM NGK 2. wires - best to use OEM, NGK, or quality wires. These engines are not forgiving of cheap or non-OEM igniion components. I've seen brand new wires throw a check engine light for cylinder misfire, including in a 1997 Impreza wagon, though nearly all EJ engines are like this. More obscure things could be happening but those are so common they need to be checked first....and I'm sort of guessing the codes anyway. A full on timing belt kit would be nice for reliability - they're like $100 on Amazon for all new pulleys and the belt and can be installed in an hour or two.

Nice, how many when you got it and how many miles per year do you put on it?

It might be deserving of a tip or submission but it's well known to Subaru people and has been mentioned many times here over the years: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/143366-crank-cam-sprocket-differences/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/99698-help-ej22-to-ej25-swap-wont-start/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/151051-2001-ej22-into-a-2003-legacy/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141340-2002-outback-engine-swap/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/95420-2003-outback-wont-start-after-engine-swap/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139190-ej253-ej251-99-forester/

Timing belt needs installed properly. Remove belt and properly line up the cam sprockets. Don't allow any slack between cam and crank sprocket - if you don't that will retain perfect timing. If you don't - it'll be off once tension is released or it's driven. The belt is very tight and hard to install - remove the lower passengers side pulley - that one can be installed after the belt is installed and gives you a tiny bit more slack. Make sure you're using the correct mark on the crank sprocket, some people use the wrong one. use the dash, not the circle or triangle or whatever people soemtimes use.

are EA81 tops like EA82 tops? camber plates for EJ's fit EJ strut tops for the fronts - would they work?

cheap bearing previous bearing ran into the ground, damaging the hub and the new bearing. replace hub. grease? was it greased? can you install the bearing as one piece instead of "inner bearing" and "outer bearing" separately? i've only ever installed one piece bearings at the same time....a two step process there sounds odd, but i haven't done tons of 95-99 bearings.

+1 torque bind. 1. all tires need to match in size, air pressure, and closely in tread depth. 2. change the transmission fluid - one flush or 3 drain and refills. Install the FWD fuse in the FWD fuse holder by the passengers side strut tower. If the binding doesn't go away then your Duty C solenoid has failed. If it does the clutches are sticking and item #2 above may help If it doesn't resolve by the above steps then repair involves removing the rear extension housing and replacing the clutches and/or Duty C solenoid. Alternately you can: Install a switch to flip between FWD and AWD (this only works if the FWD fuse works) Or remove the rear half of the driveshaft (install FWD fuse just in case) and run it in FWD. You can do this temporarily so it's not binding/damaging other stuff while you plan a proper repair. Or you can do this indefinitely and run the car like this. Install studded snow tires for the winter.

They don't fail very often so used is a great option. Rockford and others make replacement ujoints. A driveline shop or machine shop can install them, call around and see if you can find a place to do it for a reasonable price.

nearly all front struts are interchangeable so look for the tallest EJ struts? something 2000+...someone has probably already compared them? forester? Do you know if lifting the front 1.5" without compensating for camber matters? Strut top lifts are offset to account for front camber changes. And they're easily transferrable if the car is wrecked, totaled, hailed on, want to sell, keep the lift and move to next vehicle or sell it.

verify as i spent 17 seconds searching but it's $475 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Center-Differential-Assm-1999-2014-Impreza-Forester-Legacy-Outback-OEM-/141728076034?fits=Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy

The ones I've repaired - the solenoids connector/wiring is cracked - just replace the solenoids and you're golden. Doubt you'll need wiring but that can be repaired anyway. 1995-1998 transmissions interchange so i assume the solenoids are all the same. a cursory search on google seems to suggest the same. opposed forces would give you confirmation. Doesn't even matter if it's an EJ18, FWD, EJ22, or EJ25. I've swapped FWD auto's into AWD Subaru's and they're plug and play, zero difference, don't even need to swap the TCU - so I presume the solenoids are all the same.

what engine? which tensioner? timing chain, belt, or serpentine? the Factory Service Manuals are all over the internet, go there. Not really any special tools are needed - H6 timing chains have a lot of allen head bolts, so get a quality set of those. 22mm socket for subaru crank pulleys just about everythign else is standard metric tools - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm covers nearly every bolt on a Subaru.

This: We don't know enough of the full maintenance history to verify with absolute certainty that no one else has ever touched that plug. Maybe it was compromised earlier, and finished off by the current mechanic even though it wasn't his fault? Or it was his fault. Who knows? Dan is absolutely correct - that bung is benign and simply needs to not leak, it's not a major dynamic, moving, pressure backed, or load bearing part. Save that broken off piece? Do you have it? That makes the repair simple - simply weld it back into place. I've repaired stuff like this and taken stuff to machine shops before for them to repair. I can't see how much space you have but I'd probably even just do this one myself at home. Seal the crack and tack weld it into place. Call/ask around for a machine shop that will look at doing it on the vehicle. Worst case you pay a mechanic to remove the trans and take it to a machine shop - still way cheaper than $8,500.

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You can also drain the fluid into a clean dish/oil bottle and add it back into the trans later.