idosubaru

It does look like that's a superceded part number, but there's some confusing antics to how it's listed too... Can you post a picture? What's the difference - the connector or shape of the sensor? what's preventing it from working? I have a set of new Subaru ABS sensors at home that are think are for your vehicle. - I can post pictures tomorrow and ship it to you for half price if it's the right part.

+1 to everything he said. i've never seen/heard of those resistors failing. that it's hot almost suggests it's working? you could try unplugging it and seeing how it drives. some folks in XT6 and SVX world would disconnect or bypass them to sharpen up shifting. for a time there was even an aftermarket add-on the SVX crowd like to get to replace that resistor and firm up shifts. if nothing changes when it's unplugged - maybe it is faulty. they never fail so someone with a parts car could sell you one to avoid new costs.

First I'm going to extend the return line into the reservoir - and just see how fast the fluid is moving through as a baseline

cars101 does a good job of outlining what options are with what vehicles/models/packages/trims: It says VLSD came with all weather package in 2000: http://www.cars101.com/outback2000.html

Woah crack - power steering systems are 1,000 psi....guess I'm not measuring that.

Can I use a fuel pressure gauge to test power steering pressure? If there's an obstruction to the return line - how will that affect pressure? Will it reduce pressure or just volume? High side or low side or both? More bleeding and driving and no change. This is so bizarre. I didn't remove one bolt or screw from the vehicle. Cut 1" of metal, install hose and done.

Nice job narrowing it down, how are you certain it was the filter? Those wanting to avoid WIX based on one account - are you going to not use any filter that has ever had one defect? No company will produce oil filters in large quantities without one issue. Subaru had filter issues too a few years ago, had a recall about it.

we can infer automatic - but in the future tell vehicle/year/engine/trans when diagnosing. heat shield? they get rusty, loose, and rattle at certain speeds sometimes? can you describe the noise more? like when it does it and variations or how consistent it is? sounds like a front differential. inner CV joints can make noise when accelerating too if you think it's front diff related (transmission) - have the fluid drained and ask them to check for particles/material in the fluid. or if you're really sure - just ask them to diagnose it so you don't pay for an unecessary fluid change.

ha ha, that's a great suggestion...wait until after halloween and they should be free!? I'll digitally throw up and see if anything generates ideas: hay note books rubber maid containers ceiling tiles PCV pipes painted

Great, I'll give them a try. There's one local place I just came into contact with I'll check with first. Prices are way down from mid 00's but I have no options to sell a converter in WV for more than $20.

Thanks guys. Toyota forum guy also suggested bleeding and getting the nose in the air and wheels off the ground to turn lock to lock for bleeding. I'll try that in the morning. I'll check these other options once i see what happens tomorrow morning.

Helping a friend with a 2002 Sequoia - it lost power steering after I repaired a hose? I cut out a 1" rusty section of return power steering hard line under the vehicle and installed ATF hose. Others did this in another forum post on a Tundra which shares similar parts without issues. * It was whining as I turned it back and forth numerous times to bleed, lots of bubbles in the overflow. * After a few turns - it would not have power steering at idle but give it gas and it was fine. * After a few minutes of idling/bleeding - the whining is now gone from bleeding but now it has no power steering at any RPM's?? Fluid is full, hose is not collapsing, no bubbles in the fluid, it's not puking out the reservoir, I see some fluid movement in the reservoir, and it worked fine before the work. She was using some kind of generic power steering fluid - I refilled it with Dexron since that's what the reservoir cap said. This looks so simple but I'm obviously missing something? 1. the hose? But others have done it on Tundras without issues and it's not visibly collapsing, I can squeeze it. 2. mixing of fluids - But that seems unlikely and most of the Power Steering fluid came out when I cut the lines. 3. bleeding? but these seem simple enough to bleed - i turned it lock to lock tons of times and the whining disappeared.

00+ has the same basic layout - it uses the same water pump even so that location is identical. but as you said - fitment, size, and fan attachment will vary. H6 radiators have two top hoses, not just one, and one bottom hose. i'm not sure of all the varieties of radiators in the 90's.

$200 is a low end offer. who was that from? a person, junk yard or scrap yard? where in Canton/Akron area gives $100 - $250 for OEM converters? nowhere around me does but i'll be there this weekend, will gladly bring some converters with me.

call and ask a few yards, preferrably ones with Subarus, how much they'll give for it. 2,500 pound car at $6 per hundred is only $150, some places offering $5 per hundred this summer locally, scrap prices are low. "worth" is relative. depends on your skill set and time. takes a good bit of time to list stuff, ask questions, package, give shipping quotes, remove parts, etc. otherwise of course you can easily sell the car parts for more than $200, could almost get that for the engine if you find someone needing and EA82 right now -but tht's hard to find, it's a small market and will take awhile to sell stuff. those cars don't even exist where i live, they rusted away 10 years ago.

i wouldn't run it at all without any oil - if you're saying it's been started and ran without any oil, the lower end has probably already seen some wear if it's been heated up at all. i think what you're describing is hard for us to imagine since that never happens....no oil is moving but the oil pan is full? then either the sump is blocked (did you leave a rag in the engine when working on it) or the pump is problematic.

you should explicitly state from the beginning what you're asking about - automatic transmission. that can easily be inferred and implied, but plenty of people get confused on this topic and dont' understand the MT and AT differences. install FWD fuse - does the binding get better? "control issues" - what do you mean exactly? yes there are other possibilities but the Solenoid and clutches are so common it doesn't make any sense to guess on outliers. use opposed forces or one of the subaru online parts vendor has excellent exploded view diagrams

once it runs without issues - i generally just drive it and check/ refill the radiator after the first drive or two to complete the process.

is it binding all the time or only around corners? how far have you driven it - like 10 feet or 10 miles? i wonder if just getting it moving and working the gear oil around might help? i wouldn't do that before draining, checking, and changing the gear oil though.

did you check the gear oil level in the trans? drain the gear oil and check for debris, water, for bugs, etc. add fresh gear oil. you're positive it's the original transmission and rear differential? have you ever driven this vehicle before - to verify positively it never had this issue in the past?

no. no one said there were?

No - definitely not all EJ's have VLSD. That's out of context, I was replying to your post regarding fluid. very limited (early 90's turbo legacy SS) and 2000+ models. Yes - they fail to an open rear diff which a few folks have said is common.

yes, i've seen subaru's with low coolant levels in the radiator drive just fine. to say it another way, you can remove some coolant from the radiator, have an empty overflow tank, and they can run fine.....to a point obviously and it might depend on the motor. but wasn't yours dropping multiple times and recently dropped a lot?

i've often wondered that too.....99 OBW's are so much like 98's in every way...it's hard to imagine the transmission not fitting. I don't know that i'd want a 99 with their delayed forward engagement issues. not a huge deal but i'd just assume not start with the one model year with known issues of a transmission that's easy to find. www.car-part.com you can also swap the front diff onto your SVX transmission. EJ rear diffs are sealed VLSD units sitting inside the case, no special fluid or additives required, use your favorite flavor GL5 in the owners manual weights like an open EJ diff.

It sounds like you just want to go try the bottle regardless of what we say, so just go give it a whirl? we are trying to help but you're not answering questions or telling us anything about the engine and symptoms. external head gasket leaks - can be mitigated. internal head gasket leaks - can not. a bottle might temporarily help - but i'd be very surprised for it to last until next summer. maybe a google search will find someone that's tried this on a Subaru - by golly there's been enough EJ25D's blown i'm sure lots of peopel have tried it. Or read a prior members (now banned i think) attempt to limp his along on brake fluid - i think he drove it a year like that? lol