idosubaru

yes it will, transmission doesn't matter. you can even swap ECU's between auto and manual Subaru's, doesn't matter. things like year, make, model, and EGR are what matters.

great, send some pic's that would be awesome. my user name at yahoo.com actually can you do me a big favor? the big planetary set that goes into the transmission side - does that shaft have any play in it at all - like "in and out"? mine does but it seems like it's supposed to, there's only one bearing and it's perfectly tight with zero play. i'm pretty sure all that gets taken up when it's sandwhiched between the trans and the output shaft which is shimmed and has thrust bearings in it. but it would be really cool to know for sure.

Run it. In 50 miles or less the tapping is going to go away. HLA's just need primed and air bubbles pushed out. They are LOUD after having sat for awhile, they sound ominous as you describe, "is that rod knock!?!" That being said, they're easily replaced if need by, just drop in and pull out, though some get stuck just due to time.

donor trans had no rear housing, so I've only got one. if i run across one or mine becomes available because it self destructs after i reassemble it, i'll let you know. when trying to find one, here's what i came up with on car-par.com: 1. there's a core 01-04 trans in Ontario with VTD. 2. there's a 2007 Forester Turbo core trans for $120 in Northeast or central PA - but cars101.com was unclear on those - in 2007 it suggests all Turbo's had VTD's, then in another section it suggests only the VDC Turbo's had VTD.

FT and Imdew - worked like a charm. 1. mouse trap set next to the engine, LOL 2. PB Blaster and within seconds and 2 or so revolutions the "lump" was gone.

HA! take that, you stinkeen curse! The Justy has immunity from the curse - it will never reach 195,000 It will reach 95,000 then 95,000 then 95,000

in the odd event you ever buy another Subaru, get one with 200k, you're possessed around 190?

$1,941 for a Subaru OEM short block - I'm going to start bidding on this job! stuffed with coal of course Nip! glad you found a place willing to talk and work you through it, they sound good.

wikipedia, rough approximations, usually close/right for HP numbers. cars101 engines aren't static - they change over time with production modifications. EJ22 went to OBDII in 1995, from dual to single port exhaust in 1996, to interference in 1997...from HLA's to screw type adjustments one year..every year in that time frame saw a change. very roughly off the top of my head: EJ18: 120hp EJ22: 130 - 142 depending on EJ25: 165 - 173 (or more) depending on year.

it's an EA82 so they'll work. contact them for pricing, pricing will vary on engine, which grind, changes over time, shipping, core charges, grinding yours or buying off the shelf, etc.

battery and alternator are good - poor electrical will slow them down? or motor. good call on older subaru's not having super fast wipers too.

you don't say what vehicle - probably not but in case it's an XT the wiper transmission gears have no grease by now and will eventually destruct internally. disassemble them and clean/regrease.

tons of us have used those kits. use what you need and throw the rest away. all the basics will be obvious as you're reassembling - head gaskets, valve gaskets, valve cover grommets, intake manifold gasket, exhaust gasket, valve stem seals, EGR gasket, throttle body, etc. it'll probably have gaskets for other engines/options - like turbo engines i bet list the same kit? get the cam carrier oring (x 2) from Subaru - it's metal reinforced, don't install a regular oring there.

I blew it out with compressed air, rice shot out of the spark plug hole. Then I propped all the exhaust valves open while blowing air directly into the cylinder via a leak down gauge adapter. The engine still hung and still has a "lump" spot in it when turned over by hand. I presume it's some kind of build up or surface rust like lmdew mentioned. I'll be putting some PB Blaster into the cylinder to help break up the rust. Then rotate the engine a few times and add some oil before buttoning it all up.

i'd take an OBD code reader with me. i have a cheap ebay special one that i don't mind throwing around, letting people borrow, taking on trips, keeping in my work bag to help people out.

seriously. i noticed it because rice came out of the spark plug hole. why can't those #(*)!(*$! drink the antifreeze! i'm slightly concerned - there was a significant "notch" hanging up the crank. even after freeing it up, it still had a noticeable "lump" in the exact same spot while turning the crank. i could turn it back and forth over this one spot and feel it. kind of like in a Subaru engine that's sat for a long time and the rings are bound/rusted and stuck in the cylinder. maybe they peed in there and rusted up the cylinder wall too. LOL this engine has run perfect with zero issues for the past 100k and has 220k on it, so there's absolutely no question about it's condition. that's what i wanted to do - but wouldn't that wash the cylinders?

then the issue is passenger front: 1. wheel bearing 2. front axle - normally i'd say this is unlikely but this car has been so poorly maintained we can't really assume much right now. The rear diff leaking: if it's the rear plate, reseal it. if it's the side axle seals, replace those. if it's the front pinion seal, replace it. or replace the entire diff. Car off the ground won't be loaded at all so it could go either way - it'll still be noisey, or won't at all.

i unloaded all cams and had the same issue. i thought i was doing this right. seems a mouse filled one of the cylinders with rice. what a debacle. blew it out with cimpressed air. ill leak down test it and im going with it. maybe put some oil in cylinders in case that softens up any rice. may test some rice in a cup see what it does. LOL

cars101.com google i'd get an owners manual so you can be informed in the future. i've found them on google before for free. i'm sure ebay or other places sell them too.

My daily driver 2002 H6 has the timing chains removed and cam/crank indexing is suspect. Crank is at 2pm and moving it either direction it runs into something. I can't move it from 2pm to 12 noon, it stops about a tooth or so short - presumably touching valves? Cams are all lined up with marks at 12 noon. How do i move the crank or cam while making sure I don't have a loaded cam throw a valve into a piston?

other Subaru folks have used these guys, the only one's I can think of from memory: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

NO!!!!!! short blocks: 05 legacy $250 in Tiverton, RI: 401-624-6687 2006 forester EJ25 $540 in NY 1-315-684-9212 2006 Forester EJ25 $500 in NY 1-800-696-0144

The parts I need are shown in Subaru's parts catalog - but they aren't listed by name or number? For instance, I need parts #22, 28, and 34 in the diagram below. But then when those parts are listed below - they are completely skipped. http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_33/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_2/

3crows - are you saying you did it on a loyale? never done it on a loyale - sounds like they are saying the crossmember is trickier on those? but on XT6 and EJ vehicles it's easy. i've done it by myself with just an engine lift multiple times. you of course need to be able to see the steep angle and ground clearance you'll need like uberoo said. the trans wants to drop way low to come out at that steep angle. i have an EZ30 H6 on the ground now with auto trans i just pulled together and wrote down the chain links i used, got it out first stab i believe. 17 chain links from pitch stopper to hook on the engine lift and 8 chain links to the engine block - which i forget where but i think it was around the power steering pump bolts in the front of the block. that might give you a rough starting point.

2002 H6 VDC automatic that needs a VTD center diff. Do any other vehicles have interchangeable VTD center diff?