idosubaru

buy the cable and you can get free software, etc. FreeSSM http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html Diagnosing the data is tricky, would be nice to know how quickly your O2 sensor is responding and if it's running lean or rich and which cylinders. I like the cheap ebay OBDII scanners just for reading/clearing codes. i don't have to worry about breaking them, grease, taking them on trips, etc. break and replace.

why doesn't piston slap cause the knock sensor any issues? wrong frequency?

this is not a "2002" problem. best fix is to ignore it. if you have emissions - clear it and see how long it goes before it comes back - you may be able to just clear, pass emissions, and do that ever time. you can install a $5 spacer between the rear O2 sensor and the exhaust, that will often alleviate the code. lots of info on web about it, they're readily available on amazon and ebay. P0420 codes are very tricky to diagnose - which is why your mechanic is guessing and throwing the wrong parts at it. nearly any component related to the engine can trip this code. mechanics and dealers don't diagnose this code. replacing the converter is not the proper fix, it may "cover it up" like a band aid for awhile, but that's not the actual fix...obviously in your case. converters last the life of the vehicle, they are amazingly robust on Subarus - regardless of all the backseat chatter like "maybe your converter is clogged" - wrong. that's a false notion widely perpetuated. installing a new Subaru converter is probably a bad idea. the converters were probably never bad to begin with, but even if they were - whatever caused the others to fail, will eventually cause the Subaru one to fail again too. the cause needs addressed. P0420 is one of many things engine related (but not the converter itself). it would be good to know if it's running lean or rich, but there's no easy way to check that except - what kind of gas mileage are you getting here are a few items that are good to have in good repair/condition anyway, so i generally go through these: 1. exhaust leaks need fixed, particularly any in front of the converter 2. seafoam the intake and fuel 3. tune up - stock OEM NGK plugs, Subaru wires (or high quality wires), air filter, PCV valve 4. adjust the valves - note any that are particularly tight 5. replace O2 sensors - they could be lazy - but this is just a guess and shot in the dark - i figure i'm replacing them once during the 100,000+ miles i own the car anyway so i just replace them as preventative maintenance and to prevent lazy sensors/reduced gas mileage. 6. some folks have commented that heat shields being missing from the exhaust can cause the code, since that interferes with temperature characteristics of the exhaust. outside of that you need to connect to the OBDII data port and find out what is tripping this code - some parameter is out of spec.

welcome, i'm from westminster. good troubleshooting so far, really good! knock sensors are like $15 on ebay if you're paying high prices at AZ and want to try a different one. i'd test resistance: 1. between knock sensor connector and corresponding pinout on the main engine harness connector (passengers side rear of engine bay) and 2. between the body-side engine harness connector (same passengers side rear of engine again, just body side connector instead of the engine side one it plugs into) and the ECU in the passengers front seat foot well (it's under the carpet, very easy to get to). Swap out another ECU. PM me and I can ship you one to test if you cover costs.

how many psi does it handle?

you did this with the original impreza non-turbo ECU?

what issues do you have that you're asking - mobility, titling, price, trailer, towing??? what are you trying to do? around here, if they have to come pick it up they won't pay you anything for it. you only get paid if you can take it in. winch it on a trailer. all yards have forklifts and can off load it onsite. swap out old used hubs with bad wheel bearings if you have any lying around if you need to keep it movable. if you don't have far to go - get some of those wheel dollies for each wheel. lol

yes - Phase II is a direct swap. what you can do in this case, which you can't do on older 2.2/2.5 swaps is bolt the intake manifold from the 2.5 onto the 2.2 and it's straight up. swap and drivers side cam sprocket and crank gear (you don't always have to, but it's just easier to always do it for folks that aren't very subaru-swap-inclined). it's no extra work since you should be installing a new timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner too while it's apart - since it's an interference engine. Gates kits are $112 for everything on amazon, great deal.

good job getting it done. rebooting would have been risky, no fun if you're paying labor. 1. the original axles would have lasted the life of the car 2. they may or may not have made noise - they are often quiet once cleaned and regreased. i have a set that i beat to snot without boots for thousands of miles, offroad, towing thousands of pounds up 10,000ft Colorado mountains, coming back east they made noise and vibrated so bad that i had to constantly change speeds to stop the madness/shaking and stuff them with grease by hand at ever gas stop to make the 2,000 miles home. i beat the snot out of them. rebooted them and they're still on my vehicle today - which is also lifted 2", stressing the joints even more. probably not a good gamble for someone paying for labor, but so far i and others have done it a bunch without issue. the Subaru boots last much longer than aftermarkets. i've routinely had aftermarket boots fail in 30,000 miles. the best replacement option is to buy a used OEM subaru axle (green inner cup) and reboot it with Subaru boots aftermarket axles have terrible issues - they routinely have issues at low mileages, including right out of the box. 10-25% have issues right out of the box, 50-75% (some people say 100%) have issues within a few years.

i too don't see tremendous value in the JDM market, not for a motor like this. it's silly to pay premium prices on a motor that's one of the most robust and reliable Subaru has ever built, is cheap and easy to get in the united states. they're easily had for $100 - $400, a bit higher in Colorado or PNW. craigslist USMB classified forum (i'd almost sell you an entire running car for EJ JDM prices) www.car-part.com

the binding puts the drive train under high tension. that tension is released by the tire skipping/sliding over the road. you can hear it well on gravel/loose surface, the tires let loose and sliding through a slow, sharp turn. with warn struts or trashy roads that will all be escalated. when i have a vehicle with warn struts in the nasty mountain roads of WV, the tires wear very fast - so i'm assuming it's strut and/or poor road related. i'm not surprised by what yo'ure seeing. fix the known issues and i bet youre golden. an alternate "fix" is to install the Duty C type switch in for the FWD fuse - which is just one wire, so it would take a couple minutes as opposed to pulling the rear extension housing. then you can flip between FWD and "locked" 4WD and have a perfectly usable vehicle with almost no work, a good option on high mileage vehicles, rusty vehicles, or cars otherwise not worth gobs of money. which is nearly all 1990's Subaru's in my area, but everyone is different and since you're wanting to sell it, probably not ideal.

+1 sealed unit, not rebuildable (unless you dive into something never done before or take it to the original manufacturing plant and befriend some of the machinists that turned the casing...etc), but they are relatively easy to replace. they don't fail terribly often so used is a decent option over the high priced new ones. www.car-part.com

I'm unsure of the 2" lift with baja springs, but I wouldn't hesitate to try it. I don't think it would much matter since it's not much in the way of a lift. I installed them in mine, and maybe it lifted it over stock, but it's small. but they are stiffer if you're carrying loads which is why i got them. The limiting factor when lifting a Subaru is the inner DOJ CV joint. You'll be going through more boots and possibly more CV's if you get too much angle. It will certainly work, I just don't know at what point you start hitting those limits. And no one probably knows, it's probably a mathematical function rather than an asymptotic cliff and would be dependent on vehicle, lift, weight you're carrying, what you do with it, etc. in other words, if 100,000 Subaru's did the following, it would average out like this: 2" lifts would need CV boots every 35,000 miles and axles would last about 150,000 miles. 2" lifts with baja springs would need CV boots every 20,000 miles and axles would last 75,000 miles. i'm making up those numbers, but the more lift you'll stress the main weak point of lifting with strut extensions only. i'm not sure when CV's start being a problem but it is somewhere between 2 and 4". you don't sound like one who wants to push the limits and risk frequent part replacement, so i'd stick close to 2" or just go the full deal to 4". given your apprehension i don't think you should try and wade into the murkey abyss in between. two keys if you lift it: 1. If you do lift it make sure you retain your original axles. reboot them when the boots fail. mechanics routinely replace axles with aftermarket axles. but that's a terrible option for a Subaru in general and certainly one with a lift. aftermarket axles are notably lower quality than Subaru axles. i've seen lifts installed on Subarus with brand new aftermarket axles that had no issues prior to the lift, but then did after it was lifted. Install Subaru or FWE axles and all is well. 2. when rebooting, use Subaru axle boots. i document all of my Subarus on an excel spread sheet (i've owned like 40, though not all i documented/were daily drivers), and the aftermarket boots fail in 30,000 miles often on non-lifted Subarus. and those are Beck Arnley, who traditionally supplies decent parts. the Subaru boots are more robust. If you ever need to replace an axle for some reason just buy a used Subaru axle (green inner joint) for $25-$33 www.car-part.com

yes, replace it now. eventually you'll get a cylinder misfire due to too much oil in the spark plug tubes. those gaskets are prone to leak and never get better Replace the spark plug tube gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and adjust the valves while it's apart. They are very easy to adjust on this engine. just a wrench and screwdriver and some time. the spark plugs are also easily replaced now - plugs are disconnected and a little more access with cover removed. on 6 cylinders i have always done valve covers and spark plugs together. it's very easy to DIY - the 4 cylinder engines are a cake walk, very easy to do. the 6 cylinder engines are the more difficult ones, the drivers side rear bolt (just one bolt) is nearly impossible to get out. can't see or reach it. ***all that being said - if you do need to lift one side of the engine up, it takes: 1. ONE BOLT - the 14mm engine nut on that side 2. a jack and a 2x4 to lift the engine up 3. about 3 MINUTES so it won't cause any problems for a DIY or cost any more money due to time at a mechanics.

manual transmission torque bind only has one solution: replace the center differential. doesn't require removing the transmission, just slide the rear extension housing off and swap the VLSD, not terribly difficult and not terribly expensive. all the stuff you're asking is for automatic transmission center differentials that use a clutch type set up. manual transmissions don't have that, they have a sealed non-electrical, center diff. which means: only auto's have FWD fuse, so the fuse you put in is doing nothing. it's just a slot for auto transmission models. "clutch" system is only on automatics, not manuals. they share the ATF of the transmission. your manual transmission center diff has a sealed center diff, fluid can not be accessed. since it's sealed, changing trans fluid or adding anything can not have any affect on torque bind, it's impossible.

rear extension housing with VLSD is certainly worth keeping in case you have torque bind or want to sell it, there's always someone with torque bind eventually needing a VLSD center diff. the VLSD's are sealed units so they can't be contaminated internally at least.

if that's true, it has nothing to do with the starter. i would see what's keeping the engine from turning over. pull the timing belt covers and see if one of the pulleys, the tensioner, or the belt has failed. that engine probably needs a new timing belt kit - new pulleys, tensioner ,and belt, if it hasn't broken yet. they're $115 on amazon and easy to replace.

+1 I'd use Subaru for headgaskets The Gates timing belt kits are awesome - all new pulleys and belt for $115 on Amazon. Routinely used by Subaru afficianados. Fel Pro's were heavily used on older Subaru's, but not touted nearly as much for newer Subaru's. That being said - some folks have said the Fel Pro's are sometimes identical to the Fel Pro, MLS, and I think even had FUJI info stamped on them. But aftermarket headgaskets can vary - same brand can give you completely different headgaskets for the same engine/part number. Not sure why/how, but it happens.

great engines. not much to look for specific to that platform, just regular car stuff - oil leaks, fluids, etc. the serpentine belt pulley bearings both fail with regularity. but they're like $10 and takes 30 minutes to replace. very easy and just something to do immediately once you buy it. spark plugs are a huge job and a few hundred dollars to replace. every 60k.

2" lift is the generally accepted limit on Outbacks. CV angles get too tight and alignment may become an issue. Going to 2.5 or 3" means a lot of work for not much gain. simple to just stay at 2" or go to 4". the 2" lift kits are offset to allow for proper camber in the wheel alignment. you can't just lift the car 2" without that or your tires will tilt outward, look funny, and wear on the outer edges. if you want 3" you get a 2" lift kit and larger tires. with 4" you need spacers so geometrically there's no practical difference between 2" and 4". yes - you need blocks with anything over 2" - so yes you need blocks with 4" lift kits to drop the engine/drivetrain back down for properly geometry. yes you loose movement with lifts. the king springs are going to extend the struts and you'll loose range in the strut. a lift kit pushes the body up and extends the geometry of the control arm, reducing it's downward range of motion. you're getting ground clearance which is important to keep from getting high centered for those that just use the vehicles and play lightly - need to get through snow and mud without getting high centered. or for folks that just don't want to sit "down" into the car every time they get in and out of it. for more serious off roading and playing, then having fuller ranges of travel becomes important. so it depends why you want a lift. "too big to hold up securely" - nowhere near the small amounts you're talking about. the spacers aren't leveraged or anything critically happening structurally with them, all sorts of other things will fail before a block of metal does.

that was quick! welcome! can't go 4" lift with just struts - CV's can't take the angles. you need engine/trans/diff lift blocks for that. scott is a member here and offers lift kits, 2" and 4" and maybe others: http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits?limitstart=0 HiGuys and others as well.

if by "teeth" you mean the triggers - yes it won't start. those are what the crank sensor uses, so yes that's your no start issue. weld the broken piece off if you can find it or just get a used one, post in the classified section here. i have some 95+ sprockets. if you mean "teeth" as in the teeth on the sprocket the belt goes around, no immediate issue but i'd file down the edges so they're not sharp and gouging the belt every revolution.

1. Battery is defective (a defective new battery is nothing new to hear of) 2. The end terminals are warn or not tight enough - if you can twist them by hand they're not tight enough. if they're corroded, they need cleaned. 3. Battery cables themselves. Corroded, poor connection some very easy tests: 1. check battery voltage (though it may not have enough amps or have dead cells) 2. jump the car with cables and another car (have to ensure excellent connections) 3. run jumper cables - positive to the positive node on the starter to see if it'll spin. that will give it a quick hard bump - only do it for a second as a test. given your symptoms it's almost pointless to guess or suggest anything else until those are checked out.

copy, i'll go with that if one more welding try doesn't work. BFHing sounds good! LOL that's the plan if the one last welding attempt doesn't work. i'm going to weld a U/J nut in place, or old wrench or flat steel plate to a nut. ***Thank you very much for helping guys, I feel like I've got a good game plan and some more options for another go when I get back to it on Tuesday. Will report back then.

those bolts are hard and brutal to drill through. but I could angle grind the head of the bolt 5 times straight on from the top to get it off too since i can't cut it flush due to clearance issues. same idea, and would be quicker.