idosubaru

1443 and 0420 are not causing the no start. 0452 I’m not familiar with. I think it’s emissions related and I’d be concerned about a rusty tank bleeding off pressure (and vapors). But I’m unsure. 0031 are front O2 sensor codes. Check wiring for damage, FSM for how to test or many people just replace it and see On older vehicles you can just disconnect the O2 sensor as a test to see if it runs better. if it does then that almost confirms the O2 sensor is the issue Not sure if you can still do that with an 02 but I’d try it and see what happens Worse case…what…it doesn’t start? Haha who cares, it already doesn’t start !

1995 automatic 2.2 is best for reliability Any 1996-1998 EJ25 or 99 Outback or Legacy will work as well. But they’re not good to buy used for the same reason you’re replacing it. Yes it’s doable. And yes headgaskets is a little more work and unforgiving. One bad move or negligence and jtll fail again. It’s just big and a lot of weight. Get an engine lift. Weight leveler helps some people to get a good angle. But isn’t necessary. I have one and have never used it. The only tricky parts: 1. Separating the engine and trans. They’ll be tight - just work around the bell housing with a stout screwdriver then chisel and keep working around 2. getting the angle right. Have to tilt trans back and engine pointed “up” for engine mounts to clear crossmember. so those are kind of an “art” or experience thing. but not “hard” 3. Lower 14mm engine mount nuts. They’re hidden by the axles. Get good wobble sockets and extensions and tool assortment rather than trying to use something that won’t reach. Speaking of tools don’t use 12 pin to sockets particularly if you’re in a rust prone area. 4. keep torque converter pushed back when pulling trans. It’s tricky to get fully seated if it pulls out. Keep it pushed back and held in place by wire until the new engine goes in.

For Subaru's particularly that new it has a very very small chance of being the issue. It is cheap and easy it's just not going to fix his car. He can pull the outlet side and see the fuel flow through it into a cup when turning the key to "test" if it's working. It should pour out roughly like a garden hose.

1. Read the check engine codes. It could have a pending code even if the check engine light isn’t lit 2. Guessing is a good way to waste time 3. Speaking of guessing how old are the plugs and wires? 4. Are the plugs and wires OEM or NGK? 5. Pull the plugs and look for oil on the *external* part of the plugs/wires Misfire is more likely than O2 sensor. Symptoms vary and overlap. Clogged converter will get hot snd turn red. You may smell a burning type smell. Disconnect and drop the exhaust and see if it runs better but then again yours is likely rusty and problematic to remove. 90s EJ knock sensors crack all the time - by far the single most common sensor to cause problems. I’d pull the knock sensor (12mm bolt) on your Forster and see if it has signs of cracking on the base of it. O2 sensor - follow the wire up from it until you see the connector. It’s usually on the passengers side by the frame rail or axle. Of course you know they’re usually corroded rusted and hellacious to remove.

Thanks. I thought 225/60/16 didn’t clear legacy strut spring perches? they don’t fit some EJ struts i tried to put them on years ago but maybe it’s just some older ones. one person here suggests they don’t fit:

My 225/60/16 OB snow tires cleared my 2009 Legacy struts. But most Subaru commentary says those OB tires won’t clear legacy struts. These are definitely legacy struts it sits really low to the ground and I’ve installed them temporarily on my xt6 before. Are they GT turbo struts ? The prior owner installed a turbo GT hood and had the camber set to wonky angles so it would be no surprise to have non OEM struts

I just start searching until I find one. If I can’t I buy the discs on eBay. Shoot I knew mine was newer Gen , 09-13 and 14-18 are different generations, harness is likely different. I might have an 09-13 FSM but Ive worked on legacy/outback like 10-1 more than foresters so I’m not sure. I can check tomorrow if you still need it.

Oh right my question oversimplified comparing grounds, here we are diagnosing an unknown with CANBUS and controllers.

Odd! Can you look up vin and info on cars101 and try to verify trim and options? Then I’d check FSM pin outs for seats or heated circuit. Should be able to count how many pins or connectors using FSM. I have a 2014 Forester parts car if the harness happens to be the same and you need it it’s yours.

CANBUS worse than others? I’m guessing there’s no test worth the time for grounds? Test for a voltage drop at grounds or a power supply point? From one engineer to another - for many to work fine missing a ground and others not, is unsatisfying! Grounds, and something additional, is at play. Rust? More than one compromised ground? My last 6 or more DDs are from rust free states. It’s so common I’m sure most shops have seen it.

I’m not questioning that - but why do a large number of Subarus I’ve seen drive fine with ground straps hanging off and dangling unconnected for years? My current 2006 abs 2008 are prime examples. I don’t even care to fix it because it’s so common. The common ones are the engine to frame rail so I guess the answer is those are less important. I know the one behind the power steering pump is crucial (some won’t start without it). Any others specifically worse than others?

Check alternator output voltage now. It would be no surprise for a new aftermarket alternator to be bad or over charging. Why was the alternator replaced? An overcharging alt will fry computers. Ive seen and repaired all of the above.

How about a carburetor? I hate them with a passion and try to buy anything without them - tractors, generators my buddy just got an FI chain saw. carbs suck. But for simplicity you'd be running in no time and you can rebuild/make them new-ish I think? In a currently running vehicle I woudln't be concerned about reliabilty of the SPFI - I'd just have a spare computer for back up and call it a day. Heck many of us have these EA vehicles parked in our driveway right now with original harnesses that have been in use since the 80's with minimal, if any issues. Most of us aren't breaking down yearly. But getting a used one brigns into question what was wrong with it, how was it stored, did it sit with rodents, weather, exposed for extended periods, etc. I wouldn't be too worried sourcing one, trying to ascertain condition, and visually inspecting all the connectors for corrossion.

You should specify what you mean by "normal" diff locker, in Subaru world there isn't a "normal". Broadly speaking a "diff locker" usually refers to a rear, or front, differential. The Duty C switch controls the rear transfer functionality of the transmission, and not the front or rear differential like a truck with a "locker". A 4WD truck with a "locker" will have the transfer case and a locking rear diff. A subaru with this switch will just have control of the transfer function, it has nothing to do with front and rear diffs.

No, with it “off” it’s like the switch isn’t even there and was never installed. It just would then drive like every other Subaru on the road without a switch. this assume it’s installed correctly of course

Duty C isn’t designed for continuous use via a switch so that non standard use could wear it out. I’ve never seen it happen and I’ve used it probably more than just about anyone on here in a few vehicles and 10s of thousands of miles. I’ve even used it continuously for 10s of thousands of miles to work around other mechanical issues. I like it in snow and mud. It gives definitive immediate traction and no chance of the wheel momentarily slipping and starting a rut. I also like it on a steep unmaintained (not plowed or treated) snow covered mountain road I drive every day to work. Without the switch the car wants to walk some back and forth and has less control. With it on it goes straight up. When it’s just above freezing during the day, a few people drive over it, and it freezes at night - it’s slick as an ice rink and even making it up with snow tires can be tricky. At its worst, it’s impossible to go down without studs because it’s so steep and solid smooth ice. I won’t go down jt and go a different way home when that happens. It’s a pretty good test because I drive it every day to work and have done it hundreds of times with and without the switch. Mostly, but not entirely, in an XT6. Which has the same transmission but a bit of a weight difference from your car.

Any word if this worked yet? I guess you probably weren't doing this over the holidays!?!?

Used properly it's a nonissue in snow, mud, grass, offroad. There aren't really many options though. The rear VLSD differentials wear out and function like the open rear differential you already have so they're kind of pointless to buy used. If you have a manual trans you can't get a locking center diff. If you have an automatic you can install a switch to manually control the Duty C solenoid output for the rear transfer cluthes (a.k.a. "center diff") - which is what I, and others here, have done before.

How long and how many miles have you owned this? Is it a hatch back or wagon? Its probably benign - EA82 oil pumps are notoriously inconsistent with pressure readings, ticking and the stock gauges aren’t great. I would guess the timing is coincidence. Not surprising at all. Worth looking into but if it’s got oil in it snd running fine it’s probably fine. Many old conversations about low or zero EA82 oil pressure. Some owners manuals for the vehicle even mention low/no pressure reading at idle.

EA81 or EA82? Auto or manual? EA82 oil pressure gauges are notoriously unhelpful or inaccurate. it’s probably fine and there’s no issue. or reseal the pump What was the oil pressure doing before this episode? It’s been consistently the same for 5 years? Any recent engine work? has the pump ever been resealed ?

Hill holder. Or, Ive only seen this on non-Subaru vehicles. But the rubber brake line at the hub/wheel can collapse internally. When letting off the brake the fluid doesn’t return back up the line because the internal collapse is acting like a one way valve. MC and booster give ample pressure to push through it but they’re a one way street so there’s no pressure pushing back up to the MC when brakes are let off. So it retains pressure on the caliper.

I’ll measure H6 diameter if I remember next time I’m in the garage.

The exhaust wouldn’t mean much. Infinite Subaru parts interchange even if they’re not cross listed and have a separate part number. Different gaskets might suggest different bolt spacing or pipe diameter though. There isn’t much else to them to vary aftermarket sometimes lists gasket dimensions you could possibly compare why they differ.

In the end if you can't get Subaru then yes just get one of the other brands. I've bought from those brands before and gotten "different" parts - in other words Beck Arnley sourced the part from someone different the second time I bought the same part. With the low volume and miles of aftermarket reports we get it'll be hard to compare them in terms of quality. OEM - I don't know. Probably can't but many have original or second ball joints which puts it long enough ago that OEM was a reasonable option. Worn out - they're either loose or they're not. It's just a socket joint. Toyota - I've seen a couple like that at acquaintance's shops and side of the road i pulled over to help. All mangled and sheared off. one was like a 10 year old new style mustang - I asked the shop owner and he said he sees it from time to time on cars that age, wasn't nearly as surprised as me. all the ones I've seen were not Subarus (and I think none of them were Japanese). My (entirely anecdotal) guess is other manufacturers may use lower grade ball joints than Subaru/Japanese, which I associate with aftermarket too. Anyway - minor point, and I'm making some wild guesses and assumptions, people use aftermarket ball joints all the time, so I wouldn't worry about it either if there's no options.

I have a complete H6 exhaust on my garage floor, I’m not home to go look but that looks very much like it. I could pull a measurement if needed or check sensor locations Just check the gasket part numbers, if they’re the same then the form factors are as well and then you just need to ensure the oxygen sensor(s?) are there and in the right spot.