idosubaru

Find any other vacuum leaks. Check for any exhaust leaks, upstream of sensors. Those items are directly related to engine removal and installs which yours needed if it was “rebuilt” Test the O2 sensor and catalytic converter. Those could be impacted by issues requiring a “rebuild”. Too much fuel, oil or coolant entering the exhaust. You might want to watch what the O2 sensors are doing while watching STFT and LTFT but I’m not well experienced in interpreting the results. But I’d be curious what it looks like.

All 2010-2021 6 speed trans center diffs are the same part number. The exploded view diagram makes it look basically like the same process. Pull extension housing and juggle a few extra parts and shafts. (for reference only): https://parts.boardmansubaru.com/a/Subaru_2012_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_80160_6027583/MT--TRANSFER--EXTENSION-EXTENSION/B14-121-02.html I’d get the factory FSM even if you knew exactly how to do it so you can see all the parts, steps, torque values in sequence. Not hard to find for free. With that it might be obvious if it’s similar to the 4 cylinder models.

New Subaru struts and new springs. You were fine with them for 90k. Do it again. Most of us run KYB and the original springs. KYB is the original supplier and far less issues and glitches than other brands. But if you want top shelf and tow a lot subaru and new springs makes some sense. Im not into performance suspension. The options have been limited for Subarus for years and results vary too wildly for me to keep tabs on. So you might want some other opinions.

That doesn’t surprise me. Think about it - it would be weird if Toyota instantaneously created a great, dominating product in a sector of business with an enormous capital investment bar to entry. It would be impossible for them to get to where they were in the 90s in 2 years. It takes time. It would make more sense for it to grow into that. My off the cuff (but I think reasonable) guess is Toyota was improving component manufacturing but struggling on full assembly. Engines and trans improved but all the smaller supporting items and systems snd third party and business logistics supply side of automotive assembly for a final product took longer. In the 70s people were requesting Japanese (Toyota I think) transmissions and Ford was scratching their head. It’s not advantageous for their supply line to have more demand for one part supplier making the same part. They want demand on a vehicle model, not specific part within a model - it’s so half sell and half sit (I’m exaggerating that of course). On the street, with consumers, they were widely known as better. Ford Higher ups scratched their heads because all of their specs to any trans builder were identical. In the end they found the Japanese manufacturers had tighter tolerances/less variations which resulted in fewer issues. They went from “This spec works” to “what failure modes are happening and how can better processes and specs address them”? Welcome to Toyota 2021

If you get to timing covers and see they’re warped/curved in spots - particularly the inner covers where (and because) they’re touching the block, I’d assume this block was severely overheated. The ones I’ve seen like that don’t last long. I don’t know if other parts can show overheating, that’s where I’ve seen it. EJ22 is so easy thr HG is still worth replacing but I’d consider needing another block in the future.

Great. No waste, that's a successful effort getting the car running! Feels good doesn't it?!

No. Yes. What takes the coolant's place when it leaks? Air. The coolant reservoir is meant to compensate for *pressure*, not capacity/volume. Sometimes that's correlated, often it's not, particularly in situations like this. No chance some rag got stuck in there while doing the engine swap? or something wild like that? Compression tests aren't always a good test here. But if it's been bad then it probably was when you go it and it may be bad enough to show iteslf. Pull the plugs and see if one looks considerably different than the others. That can suggest coolant entering combustion chamber and burning off in there. Those Phase I EJ22 heads are elementary to replace in the car. No need to even pull it. External head bolts! Easy. Pull the head, resurface (DIY sand it), install Subaru head gasket. Done. If you don't pull the engine it wouldn't be a big deal to just replace the one that's bad, not much wasted time if you ended up doing the other gasket later. The main concern I'd have is that it sounds like you got this with existing head gasket issues and I'd wonder how badly it was overheated before you got it.

Vacccum leak? any check engine light? how long did the car sit before new engine installed.

timing chain issues would account for noise and performance issues. Early H6s had timing chain guide issues resulting in noise. Ive installed those timing chains but I’ve never had a chance to check timing alone. what year is the car?

His approaches were slow to be received by State side corporations but Japanese corporations listened, elevated, and quickly implemented. Engineering programs often encounter his history and work in Universities across the US.

What did you end up doing about the scored rod? I don't know if I'm missing something else with your move involved multiple engine/previous work scenario but oil blowing past the oil control rings. Or a massively hosed PCV system but I doubt that's the case here. Good to know these lap in easy, I'll likely ever avoid doing another valve lap job but I've done it before and was (too) meticulous about it. That's the issue. They might not be horrible but they have a higher failure rate. waiting too long to change the oil and low oil.

I understand where you’re coming from if that’s where you land. I’ve heard all that garbage before too. But it’s not true for 4EATs. I have no idea about nonsubarus so maybe this concept is borrowed from other manufacturers and/or eras (my guess - the 1970s and 1980s like other similar archaic shop ideologies) or manufacturers. Multiple things are happening that create this mindset that’s been around for decades. It may be true of other manufacturers or eras (older 70s and 80s trans). That doesn’t mean it’s true for this specific transmission. Also it’s possible new fluid could amplify already existing issues. Got a weak transmission. Change old fluid. New fluid routinely can help a transmission shift better. On a trans with issues it might make the pre-existing issue more pronounced. It didn’t cause the issue - but it seems like it to someone unfamiliar and desperate for it not to need a new trans. cost/desperation. Engine and trans are expensive. People go through the 5 stages of grief like Homer Simpson when these two topics come up. You can see it on the forum here and other forums. People desperate for some other explanation, eager to blame Subaru or a shop or dealer or fluid. Extrapolate that through these other social realities The only people who “change old fluid with tons of miles on it that shouldn’t be changed” are people who don’t change fluid. Lmao. I’m almost not joking. I’ve seen and know how it happens. They don’t change fluid…until something prompts them too. Most of the people I’m around every week never change the trans fluid in their vehicles. “It ain’t broke don’t fix it” even though they change oil every 3,000 miles. So - They don’t change jt until they suspect there’s an issue and they hope it fixes it but it doesn’t and the trans quickly dies. Keep in mind - Some of these people actually forget the original symptoms, forget the trans was initially problemstic before the fluid change. it was slight and they weren’t certain it was the trans but a noise or shake or shift made them think about it. So they had the fluid changed along with many other things over time snd the details got lost in the mix. They hear someone regurgitate the “don’t change old fluid” mantra - and the light bulb goes off “Oh no I did that and the fluid killed my trans”. Revisionist history sometimes accidentally. Ive even done this accidentally forgetting stuff before but not with transmissions. Something reminds me months later that my assumption was wrong in the first place. And I’ve seen it in other people/vehicles, it’s not uncommon. People buy a new to them used car and change the fluid and the trans dies. Well it was on craigslist for cheap because the previous owner had trans issues. Seen that before too. correlation doesn’t mean causation, but that’s not a skill for most people. We are psychologically programmed to hate uncertainty, gravitate to simple explanations and avoid cognitive dissonance like a crazy ex friend Trans shops don’t rebuild ***4EATs*** and if they do, they shouldn’t or you shouldn’t have it done there. 4EATs done at trans shops are likely to need warranty work. Why - I don’t knew I imagine most arent set up for the scope of the tooling and process but in the end I don’t know. GD probably knows why. I’d install a jdm or used 4EAT with tons of miles before getting a random local rebuild (a major source of anecdotes like this). Some shops want to blame something else or make excuses. That’s a surprise to no one and they will also be more vocal about it. anecdotal - no one saying this as an original source has extensive subaru specific experience or knows the 4EAT very well. Or they’re an outlier. If the internals are so dirty that fresh fluid causes catastrophic contamination that trans was one Jack in the box full of garbage and ready to fail quicker than a plastic nuclear reactor before the fluid change. i have no problem changing 200k old fluid in Subarus. None. it’s because I’m the best Subaru mechanic in the Eastern US….oh wait that’s a correlation not a causation…my bad. Lol In any event - there’s a decades long track record of these ideas getting reinforced to perpetuate this throughout the DIY and shop world.

Oh great, you’re already familiar with these then. Excellent! Itll sound odd but I’d replace the belt with Subaru brand belt and that lower pulley, or all the pulleys even if it’s “got a new belt”. Most shops only do the belt or use non Subaru branded parts which have higher failure rates. I’ve bought blown EJ25 96-99 Subarus with new off brand timing belts that have broken and bent the valves. Friend is getting a Subaru and I told them today I’ll just do the timing belt for them even if it’s “already been done”. I’ve also seen people say “it’s got a new timing belt”, and it doesn’t. They think a new belt means a new timing belt but all they really got done was the serpentine belts. Anyway I assume have like new reliability and no bent valves for $100 and an hour of my time.

Excellent! the 99 maroon SUS is about one of my favorite looking practical Subarus when in great condition. Super sharp but not too over done. Nice job, enjoy! 99s have a delayed engagement into drive issue. Add a bottle of Auto Trans-X as soon as you have that symptom. Additives like this are nearly universally a horrible option or a waste of time - but this is a rare outlier where this is an excellent long term option. Replace timing kit with an AISIN kit or for a bare minimum cheap job Subaru belt, lower toothed idler and check the timing tensioner seal for wetness. If it’s substantially wet replace with new Subaru. Interference engine so if any of those fail there will be bent valves. Very easy job. Belt can be done easily in an hour. Leave extra time for first time or based on how you work. Use NGK for plugs and wires and KYB for struts. You may know this but those are prone to headgasket failure. and the first and only symptom of factory headgaskets failing in that engine is random overheating, making them difficult to diagnose for those unfamiliar with that engine.

If it happens again you can clean the hole with a tap and install a longer bolt to reach the lower threads that have never been used. I have heard of people installing the rocker arm without removing the tower. But they've never given much detail on how they did it. I've tried it on an XT6 with no success, it's HLA's, rockers, pistons, valves are all the same as the EA82, so the localized process would be identical (same form factor around the rocker arm/hla). But an EA82 is smaller and has more access/room and maybe yours will be a forward arm, mine were in the back with less room. If you figure out away let me know, i've still got one i'd like to accomplish that with if you find an easy way!

Randomly curious - How often do you see XT6s or XTs now? I saw a bunch of 80s Subarus in CO like 10 years ago, but saw zero last month when I was there. Is that anecdotal or did numbers drop a lot out west in 10 years? Obviously they’ve been practically nonexistent in the East for a long time.

Rocker arm fell off. Pull the valve cover and find out which one. Double check timing, fuel, and vacuum. Are you positive you're not lining up all the marks at 12 oclock at the same time like modern EJ and other engines? Doubtful cam differences are enough for it not to run at all. I still bet it's the rocker arms but in the event it's looking confusing still , there's more to the story than "Well I spent the day swapping a cam for fun...".....what prompted the replacement?

2" lift Make sure the inner axle cups are green (OEM), if not, install used OEM green inner cup axles. Auto transfer clutch modification. It's a one wire job - cut wire, install switch, done. Change your transmission fluid since it's of unknown age and you're going to be working it out. 2" lift is the standard maximum subaru lift. Any more starts flirting with axle angle issues. The oil pan sits low and exposed - careful.

Front wheel bearing. If it's been replaced before then it's probably some cheap brand. If it's an aftermarket axle then it could be garbage as well, they're really good at finding surprising, creative, ways to fail.

Yes agreed. This was discussed *decades* ago. You’re way too late. Now you should be looking into technology gadgets and lack of repair/support, 0W oil, low friction oil control rings plaguing most manufacturers the last few years. New car consumers are culpable too. They want new styles, reliable, aesthetic high tech, gas mileage, environmental friendly , performance improvements every year and it better be cheap compared to the same new styling and tech by another manufacturer. New car consumers pay for that - not reliability. They can talk about it but they’re not serious about it beyond low grade consumer reports rankings. Manufacturers have to support new tech, EPA, electric cars, gas mileage and all these additional devices that weren’t an issue before - and they can’t expect to charge commensurate increases in prices. They have to research, design, make, support all these extras systems for no more money. The days of new car consumers being happy with paying a fair cost for a decent new are gone. The market has entirely changed over that decades and half (or more) of it is driven by new car consumers buying habits and expectations. Fortunately for manufacturers consumers also became less versed in cars and have less ability and time to do their own work, diagnosis, or planning. New car Dealership profit has drastically shifted from new car sales to service abs used cars. They don’t make money on new cars like they used to in the 80s and 90s. A new car is simply access to your service and repair dollars now, or your relatively nee trade in they can sell certified You can expect tech, styling, performance, advertising, and feel to get more focus and funding than mechanical and reliability. It’s not sexy and doesn’t sell no matter how much new car people “say” it does - new car buyers don’t pay for it at scale. Companies know this. Do companies loose if reputation is hit - yes. Do they loose a lot more if they don’t cater to new car buyers buying habits? Absolutely.

22, 11, 21, 44 Test, clean, or fix the bad front sensor and that will likely clear it all up.

Goodness this issue was discussed to death many years ago. What part of “it’s covered under manufacturers warranty, recalls and extended warranty” should they sue over? warranty, recalls, and manufacturers extended warranties, happen for multiple reasons including to mitigate litigation.

Where was the old pump leaking? Front seal, rear gasket or reservoir oring? And how badly was it leaking? I assume there’s a new oring between the reservoir and pump body? Are you sure it was totally bled of air? I’m suspicious if more air was introduced? Seems unlikely for sure, but hate to diagnose a pump or valve body without checking. I’d be tempted to toss a used one on to differentiate between pump or some other issue. I don’t think I have any 90s pumps left.

Hey boss - I'm just an hour south of you I guess. 1. Zero trust. If it's too be driven they will break. Think about old dried up plastic and rubber you've seen cracked and hardened - that's what they are like materially even if aesthetically you'd give them a thumbs up. Fortunately those timing belts are super easy to do. Replace the bolt belts, idlers, tensioners - there are kits available with all that. Buy a crank seal, oil pump seal and gasket and oring and cam seals and cam cap orings from Subaru. I actually probably have all the oil pump/seal stuff I can ship you at cost. 2. Change fluids. Yes they have one or two known weak spots that can be remedied so I've been told from other old school Subaru people. I've never had to touch one so I'm not persoanlly familiar but new fluid for sure. 3. No. It's old school tech and it'll flash you the codes by reading a flashing LED, no scanner or annything needed. SPFI is simple and robust with few issues. 4a) They have front emergency brakes for which the piston screws in with a special $5 tool all auto parts stores have (or use pliers). Don't just press the piston in like a normal brake pad, it won't go. 4b) Go easy on the cam cap 10mm bolts they easily strip (though the holes are deep so just install a longer bolt if they do) 4c) the timing belts (there are two) are opposite of every other modern vehicle timing belt. the two cam timing marks are supposed to be lined up 180 degrees off - not both lined up like modern belts. With drivers side cam lined to it's mark and the crank mark lined up, install the drivers side belt. Now rotate the crank 360 degrees and the drivers side cam will be pointing down at 6oclock. Now line up the passengers side belt and install it with it's cam marks lined up. ***Alternately those of us that have done a ton of them just install the drivers side belt with cam mark at 12 olock lined up and just put the passengers side cam mark at 6 clock and install them at the same time. They just need to be 180 degrees off from each other. 4d) It should surely have the original axles. If you're not familiar with this topic - be prepared to ignore 95% of what you hear about Subaru axles. keep those original axles. Plan on cleaning/regreasing/rebooting them if the boots ever break no matter what. Replacement axles are garbage no matter what some "really smart" car person tells you. Ignore them. I don't care if 6 people who loves Subaru's recommend some axle - they're wrong. OEM original axles are gold and worth keeping. I have dozens of stories about how trashy they are - including a friend last week that ignored me, got an aftermarket axle, and was stranded on his 120 mile commute due to mad vibrations. Wash rinse repeat - I've had that happen countless times. I can't exaggerate how bad they are - I seen two brand new aftermarket axles blow up right out of the box - one made it 10 feet and the other blew after 100 miles.... And on and on...i've got lots of pathetic stories about aftermarket axles. I don't know the numbers but let's say They''ve got a 60% chance of hosing you - it's not worth it. it's a waste of time and they can fail catastrophically when OEM will never fail catastrophically. There's no reason to use aftermarket except laziness. I've even regreased and rebooted noisy OEM axles and they're perfectly fine - some are running on members vehicles on this forum after many years still. I'd never trust an aftermarket axle in that situation.

They're so easy to replace in that engine, use the correct NGK recommended plug.