idosubaru

I wouldn’t pay that premium price unless you can verify some timing belt or head gasket history Keep in mind - There’s no meaningful difference between the engine and trans and struts and brakes between 108k and 140k on a car that old so don’t pay a premium just for the mileage numbers to be lower. Lower mileage matters on a collectible or newer car, like 2017, but not a nearly 20 year old car. By that age the mileage isn’t a reliable indicator of the mechanical systems 1. It needs a new timing belt kit - belt and pulleys (one pulley in particular). *not just the belt*. Most shops don’t replace the (that) pulley. if the belt or a pulley fails you’ll need a new engine or $$$$$ valve job and you’ll end up $10,000 in the hole on this car. Not worth it. It’s an easy job (2 hours) and $300-$700 at a shop. Use subaru parts only 2. Also headgaskets - check condition and maintenance history or for signs of any recent coolant work that suggest they’re chasing an issue. Many have already been replaced - fit me out by who and try to determine if it was done correctly with Subaru parts.

Haha. Sneaky Double meaning. That’s not what I meant. I meant that this swap won’t result in the CEL coming on.

Check recall first and see if it’s on the list. Check car-parts.com - if they’re not available in high volume used due to the recall that might convince you to keep them Drivers side is easy so grab that. Computer is under stereo in front of the shifter. But I don’t think those years need reset like newer ones. Or I’m just forgetting. Up to you of course. I wouldn’t now, have when I was younger, so I get it if you want too so jt comes down to personal preference and how much time and storage you’re willing to give up for a maybe.

Can you test the O2 sensor? Are there differences or is it worth trying the 2.0 injectors instead of 2.5? Why was the engine replaced and how sure are you that it didn’t have this code before the swap?

I’ll be in CO next week and wondering if there are any XTs around for parts? Someone posted a pic in englewood of one - is anyone aware of which yard that is or if it’s still there? Mainly looking for fenders and a few other odds and ends

That would be unfortunate. I’ve heard of others having that but never seen it yet. Cookies to GD for that detail! I feel like I’m having a dork out engineering mechanic shop party high fives and cheers all around! One day I want to show up in Oregon and bring him a steak for this juicy stuff he gives us. 33% chance of happening - got some work related stuff and anniversary id like to celebrate out there.

Are “Slow to engage” and torque bind different failure modes?

Well I’m thinking 4EAT H4 vs H6 with VTD era. Im not sure what trans offerings and which years they apply to happened when the 5EAT was offered. No - smooth the grooves (new will also accomplish that), change fluid 30-60k, keep the tires matching and rotated. Properly maintained and driven and the grooves shouldn’t be problematic again. New is not necessary.

Does that have the 4EAT clutch set up or the H6's with VTD set up (maybe that's only on VDC models?) If it's the 4EAT style then the grooves he just mentioned need smoothed out. This has been true for decades, very well known wear point.

Yes swap intakes. The intakes themselves are the same - it's the wiring and hosing that differs. Simpler to just swap intakes than it is to swap wiring harnesses and hoses/ports. Auto/manual isn't a differentiating factor here - EGR and electronics are. It just so happens that in 1995 auto's have EGR and manuals do not so that's the easier way to reference them. Otherwise auto/manual EJ22's are the same. But if the current running issue is due to a sensor (TPS, CTS, idle control, injector, coil pack)....then you'll be installing that same bad part on your new engine. So it would be wise to diagnose first, as lmdew is suggesting above. You won't have a CEL due to OBD differences - you're swapping the earlier intake onto the 95 so the car. That has all the electronics or "OBD-ness" on it. Not the block, the ECU can't "see" the mechanical parts, just electronics. Since you're swapping all the electronics onto the new engine it wont' "know" the difference.

Yes - with a few caveats. Bolt the 90 intake manifold onto the 95 engine. 95 auto has EGR, 95 manual does not. If your current car has EGR and the 95 doesn't then you'll need to decide what to do: 1. ignore it and deal with the check engine light 2. swap 90 drivers side head onto 95 block (this seems unlikely due to constraits and mileage) 3. work around the EGR issue - drill and tap the 95 to receive the EGR or plumb a work around.

I'm not recalling the drain layouts. Some compressed air or fish tape up those drain holes you found behind the wheel wells might help to free up any higher clogs/debris.

If the drains don’t fix it - I’ve seen the gaskets leak and they’re unavailable new. I replace with a complete assembly, it’s not hard and reasonably priced at yards. $50-$125.

Y’all aren’t going to agree…and that’s okay. This forum is significantly different than others. There’s downside and upside to that. I don’t care what you do with the car. And I still I appreciate GD explaining how those cans show benign materials that wouldn’t exists without the cans in the first place. Very cool. Most other forums lack that that’s not a science experiment though. Working for 6 months - Short time period. And “working fine” is arbitrary. Catching impurities. seeing stuff doesn’t mean that stuff is meaningful. It may be benign. Or It may be an insignificant amount of the total impurities a given system encounters…etc. There’s decades and billions of miles on hundreds of thousands of Subarus EA engines….and countless UOAs suggesting catch cans aren’t necessary and EA82s weren’t breaking down due to a lack of one. Running happier and poor fuel economy usually means the car was poorly taken care of previously, and needed a tune up. A tune up with no custom hoses probably would have given identical results in those departments. Or over 6 months - you noticed the 2% gains from the gas stations switching to summer blend from winter blends and attributed it to something else. People do anecdotal type causations daily. It’s human psychology to do so. Or it means pressing the gas pedal harder and longer or a new job/house which prompted this car and resulted in a change in driving habits or……I’m sure there’s more possibilities but - it’s not scientific Clean oil - without UOA before and after the work done it’s not a science experiment. Oil could be looking better due to whatever other changes happened when you got this car, decided to make it a daily driver, it sat for years was neglected, poor prior maintenance…etc. or as CS Lewis said “suspicion often creates what it suspects”, or psychology has gobs of research on confirmation bias which most people are subject to daily without knowing But I still say go for it. I don’t care. It’s a piece of metal. It’s just not scientific.

Internal EJ251 leaks are usually on previously replaced gaskets. Good eye - Bubbles probably means HG is in your future. I saw one go 50k on internal leak that didnt progress much so monitor how much it’s loosing and you may Have more time than you thought?!? Although Im unsure how that happens - seems the combustion chamber has to progress over time and any other leak should have other symptoms that engine didn’t have.

Good job keeping a level conversation! That can be hard to hear for the DIY type wanting a low cost hands on project. most of us have wasted extraordinary time and space on an old gen Subaru project, so we shouldn't necessarily talk you out of those experiences. You'll definitely learn a lot trying and, in spite of the low view of EA82T's it can prepare you for what's to come. That being said. Better clamping, studs, compression refinement, shaving, adjustable timing, reworked cams, porting, valve springs, copper, oring, larger injectors, megasquirt, have all been attempted. Those projects have consistently amounted to nothing, almost zero accounts of running and driving EA82T's, not to mention "reliable" ones, and many blown engines and unfinnifhsed hopes or projects. Which, after 30 years, is a lot of wasted time and money collectively. Those that have tried those higher end projects have been for the most part unsuccessful, temporarily successful, never got to where they wanted, and moved on, aren't here, or have passed away, so first hand experience it limited. Good luck and enjoy.

No

I know man. I’ve been following along. That thing is getting me me amped up too. I’ve been there before. should have done what you said - sell it while it’s at least running which it did years ago. Now it’s just a parts car and constant reminder na-na-na-na you never figured me out. Lol

That's crazy. That would bug me like crazy.

awesome. i would say turn it back and forth lock to lock like 20 times to help bleed it, but yeah you eventually got it all worked out.

I told you where it is in my last post: Have you scanned for codes with a scanner? Don't rely on just the check engine light. Scan the codes with the car ON and let us know if you get any pending codes after trying to start it.

It's on the back of the engine in the bellhousing access area. One bolt. Don't drop it down inside the bellhousing once you remove or go to install it. You didn't answer my question about history - did it sit for a long period of time, any accident history? What work has been done on it in the last year? A disconnected vaccuum hose - most often the brake booster assist vaccum hose will cause a non start if it's disconnected.

Read the OBDII codes - what codes or pending codes exist? Are there any lights on in the dash? Is there any notable history - car sat for years, you just bought it, it was wrecked last year...etc. Or was this a perfectly reliable commuter for the last 10 years?

Sorry you’ve got a bad one. Give warranty a chance to work out the kinks - that’s what it is for.

I think you or I am confused - you said ‘diff’ and ‘gear ratio’. but diffs are generally referred to by their “final drive ratio”, not “gear ratio” so do you mean the final drive ratio of an R160 diff, or are you asking about (one of the) “gear ratios” (your words) of a transmission thats paired with an R160? If it’s trans gear ratio then I’m unfamiliar with those. If you mean the final drive ratio - the ratio of the diff itself, there are None in US nonturbo with that value (and I’m not aware of any common ones in US turbo either. Possible US final drive rear differential ratios: 3.55, 3.7, 3.9, 4.11, 4.44 If it exists - I’d guess it’s non-US market, or some outlier turbo STi JDM or something like that. Possibly a newer model but all of the I’ve seen are standard Subaru final drive ratios that have been around for awhile