
idosubaru
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Everything posted by idosubaru
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It needs a new timing kit. new belt is usually pointless because they don't replace the lower cogged idler which is the most prone item to fail. It's an interference engine = bent valves. bare minimum it needs a new Subaru belt and new lower cogged idler: they're like $30 on ebay. best case scenario is a full Subaru or AISIN timing kit and water pump and Subaru thermostat/gasket. that's what i do on any vehicle expected to last awhile. i'll ocassionally go belt and lower idler (bare minimum) if it's rusty or someone really needs to save every penny they can. the other components rarely fail, water pump usually gives plenty of warning, and the tensioner can be visually inspected for hydraulic oil leakage and kept if it's not wet - so they can be avoided and are less risky. look up 2006 outback on cars101.com and look over it's features to familiarize yourself with the ones that are most important to you. ignore everything else - but that's a good resource for the few items that stick out to you. they typically leak oil at the lower headgaskets - keep an eye on it. progressively get worse over time, very manageable, nothing dire.
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Hey success! Good job knocking that out. I thought it was brake pads but was hesitant without being able to see/hear myself. Nice refinish and paint Nifty. My cousin does the same in the Chesapeake bay for like 20 years now. so next time I’m around Harbor Island or Sea Brooke, would I hit you up for fishing tips!?
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Almost all old shafts are lumpy like that. I’m surprised if I find a good one with any age or miles on it. They’re often usable like that, obviously since all the ones chux and I see are lumpy. But what a collosal waste of time swapping lumpy old driveshafts or having them shippped from a yard As he said they aren’t considered replaceable but a couple companies make ujoints to replace those staked in style. Rockford is one and I think Rockauto carries the other brand. Cut and press in.
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If it's stuck really bad you might just want to buy a used or new caliper bracket - brackets used to not be available but it seems like they're becoming more widely available. I like used if I can find it because the original factory materials are probably higher quality, more rust resistant and I've seen a couple anecdotal (statistically meaningless) examples to suggest that's the case. Either way - this looks like a really good deal if they're stuck and you don't have a torch. This is not for your vehicle, just an example - you'll have to look. I would order locally and take yours with you to make sure you get the right bracket - it's very easy to get the wrong bracket particularly on front 99-02 subaru's. Rear should be easier but best to check...anyway, for illustration purposes only: https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-caliper-bracket-front/duralast-brake-caliper-bracket-14-1002/710461_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:71700000043798721&gclid=Cj0KCQjwna2FBhDPARIsACAEc_UsPXj_fc2_TsVcRpB2c45Zokhd_ASMi1-LZIe5cwl8t22tyVh_eoAaArIYEALw_wcB The black rubber soft part under the head of the pin is the boot, not the bushing. The bushing isn't visible, it's inside on the shaft of the pin. Only 2000+ Subaru's have those bushings. So it's possible yours doesn't have one being so close to 2000 and Subaru's schizophrenic caliper bracket usage from 1999-2002. If equipped - only one pin per caliper has them. Both of those pins wont' have it. And - the bushing doesn't matter right now anyway - we need to get that pin out first and worry about the bushing (if equipped) later. ***You should be able to *stretch* the pin boot over the ears of the pin to remove it and get some penetrant down the shaft of the pin (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench). If it's bad enough that stuff won't end up getting down deep enough unless maybe you soak it in a bucket for 4 months. Remove that before trying to extract it. If it's not coming out you're not being aggressive enough. some are easy, some impossible without a torch, most in between. Absolutely - increase effort or weight of hammer and bash it until the pin ears starts to get damaged, bent. I prefer turning them back and forth with a large pipe wrench. That works better than a hammer - the little movement you can get eventually works internally like sand paper crumbling piece by piece where the hammer can just pound tighter and tighter. depending how the rust formation is inside. Eventually the hammer will deform or bend the pin ears or the pipe wrench will rip them/grind them badly if the pin is stuck bad enough. No - heat the body of the caliper bracket red hot where the bushing passes through. The heat breaks the rust welded internal bond and then pull the pin out (with pliers to avoid burning yourself obviously). Shops can do this for you in about 4 minutes - just ask and they'll extract the pin for you with a torch. I've done this before when I'm working on something not at my house. Pin can be reused afterwards...might not be pretty looking after beating, twisting, and getting red hot - but usable. Yes. Disclaimer - dont' do what you read on the internet, but I throw away those pin bushings on my vehicles. They're pointless, don't do anything, and Subaru's before 2000 never even used them. They're nothing but a liability to me. (But again remember there's a chance yours doesn't have them) buying a used (or new but they're often not available without buying an entire caliper) bracket is an option too. Even if you do free up the pin now - the inside of the bore and pin are prone to do this again in the future. They need cleaned up well and regreased and checking periodically - every time you do the brakes or rotate/change tires. *** Grease: Use SilGlyde or synthetic brake grease. It's waaaaaaay better than generic stuff. Also if you do have pin bushings and keep them, regular pin grease causes them to swell and seize inside the bore. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/american-grease-stick-co-sil-glyde-silicone-brake-lubricant-tube-4-oz-bk-4/12024852-P
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Are you saying the pin isn’t moving? If the pin isn’t moving in and out then it’s seized and very likely your issue. Twist turn pound to get the pin to move - but sometimes they aren’t going to come out without a torch. Get a used good one or buy a new caliper and use just the bracket. Yes that’s crazy but an option. I don’t trust aftermarket calipers in the rust belt. Some wheel bearings aren’t diagnosable on the vehicle. They will literally evade all methods - but then when removed you can feel the lumps or otherwise tell. I don’t know what voodoo allows them to do that but a lack of easily found symptoms is no sure sign it is not the bearings. But you’ve already seemed to find brake pin failure so it sounds like that’s the starting point.
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No apology needed. I might be wasting your time on brakes. I’d probably address and look over the brakes anyway even if I was sure it’s the bearings. so it’s no time loss to address the brakes first and I might diagnose or avoid bearings by doing so. Bearings usually are a low growl that disappears around very sharp turns (usually only one direction right or left, not both) at speed, and brakes more high pitched squeal. But they can vary and overlap symptoms too. That inner pad is even low enough I wonder if it could be noisy depending on quality and what the other side of the pad looks like we can’t see - maybe it’s warn even more on the side opppsote the photo? That’s not uncommon for the inner brake pad to wear more than the outer, but that is an excessive difference in thickness. I’d see if the pins are hanging, pin bushing condition, and pad movement in clips. It’s rarely the calipers, like almost never. Not impossible, but I’ve only seen one Subaru caliper failure and about 50 pin, bushing, clip, rotor rust, bent backing plate issues.. I’d be surprised if it’s the caliper and wouldnt suspect it until I rule out other things first.
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Hard to say - all we have to go on is “some squeaking” - that’s about as little information as we could possibly have. Check for play but many newer style bearings don’t exhibit play so a lack of play does not rule out a bad wheel bearing. On the vehicle I only notice play in 1out of 5 bearings Rotate the bearing by hand now that you have it stripped down. Does it make noise or feel lumpy in a certain spot? If you have a stethoscope use it while rotating To rule out pads: Clean up the inside of the rotor of rust/ridges and make sure the parking brake is properly adjusted and not rubbing. clean the pad retaining clips where they touch the pad ears, and make sure the pad ears aren’t hanging in them and can freely slide. regrease the slide pins and throw away or replace any suspicious slide pin bushings (if equipped). They swell and seize or impede the caliper movement and can cause squeaking like noises when the caliper “rocks” between one good pin and one problematic one. make sure the rotor isn’t rubbing a bent portion of the dust shield. Not uncommon. Make sure the rotor doesn’t have a rusty flaking lip at the edge that’s rubbing the pad abs causing noise. I’ve had to turn rotors or run a grinder along the rust formed edge the last millimeter of the rotor diameter where it quits contacting the pad surface. It rusts there and usually causes no issues because it doesn’t touch the pad. But rarely that rust swells or expands or otherwise creeps over to interfere with the pads. Happens with new pads too - if the new pad is a little bigger than the old ones and hits a previously untouched part of the rotor that’s now rusty. But it can rarely happen with old pads too reassemble your properly cleaned and adjusted brakes and see if the noise persists.
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heat and noise could also be seized caliper pins. Need to diagnose it. 2001 legacy/Outback is not press in. 90s legacy/ Outback or 2001 Impreza/Forster are press in. But not 2001 legacy. buy a bearing assembly that includes the hub. It unbolts, knock it out, bolt the new one on No special bolts or tools. Unbolt and bolt on. Very quick and easy.....except the assembly can be hard to remove due to rust/corrosion. I live in the rust belt and torch the &’jk!$&’m out of it if needed. If you’ve got attention to detail/intuitiveness and get creative with hammers and chisels and extensions with well placed blows it’ll also eventually come out. But torch is the way if it’s stuck or rust/corrosion.
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Two fantastic recommendations there. I’ve bought stuff from Scott.
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That’s the same as my experience over the years, always have bottles for months or years. There was ‘one incident’ where the bottle was cured or partially cured. Or maybe my memory is faulting me! It doesn’t cure in the bottle, so something else other than “absence of air” is required. Metal. I only bring this up due to the possibility of the engine sitting awhile. If it’s used copiously on an engine that will sit, how much of the excess amount hardens that’s adjacent to metal and lies under the surface of the sealant, ie. not exposed to air? Im sure it’s fine, I’d avoid excessive amounts and use it. always been curious of the limits of anaerobics.
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Brilliant suggestion above. Only concern I would have is, are you assembling this engine out of the vehicle (you said you removed it for an engine swap), to sit for awhile, and then be used again later? If thats the case - I’ve had anaerobic sealant that sat for long periods of time in my garage cure unused in the bottle. Can it cure, due to sitting, in the engine like it has on my shelf? Or is anaerobic always dissolvable even after curing?
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Could you fabricate it to accept a larger adjustment bolt? I'd guess a control arm, link, or strut is bent. Often hard to measure or tell as the form/shape/curves mask visible deformation and they're hard to measure unless you're lucky and have a nice tram gauge. But the alignment machine may have measured and pointed in that direction for you?
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Are the ears notably offset and not sitting flush if installed without bolts right now? Can you get a feeler gauge in there? Can you mic for flatness? Check distance from engine side end/base to each ear and compare? appropriately placed RTV would sure it up if you think installing normally won’t work. They can be hard to seat. Oil it up well for lubrication to assist seating, ensure it’s going in flush, then lightly twist back and forth with the ears to rock it back in place.
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I think those control arms are the same part number control arm, bushings, and bolts right and left - which makes it seem a little odd that one side can be aligned and the other can't. Are you positive the bushing isn't deteriorating? Those bushings are commonly problematic, happens all the time. I'd probably look into whiteline, you'd want one of these rear adjusters. I think Eibach may carry stuff too. https://whitelineperformance.com/products/kta124-control-arm
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I see what you're getting at, but starting with the premise of the FOB needing to mimic a key seems off. I don't see any reason at all that an FOB must try to operate like a key in every regard. Another "inconsistent from a human factors standpoint".....An H6 2002 outback in a car wreck that sets off the pretensioners won't be able to be unbuckled like a seat belt. I don't think the goal is for electronic devices to mimic prior hardware 100% of the time seamlessly. That seems like a stretch.
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Agreed - and desiring the FOB over the door button seems obscure and grasping to me. I'm likely wrong. What we know for a fact is - they chose it. They either guessed or had reason to do so. So far you haven't given any compelling reasons why they should have done it differently. Could it be law? What have other manufacturers done in 20 years with FOB's? More grasping... I think it's considered safer (not saying that's true, I've never looked into it - but I think that's generally said in some circles) for the doors to be locked in the event of an accident - maybe accidental operation of the FOB during an accident played into that side of the decision. Yes I'm grasping, they're scale and volume is enough for me to think there's a decent probability of a reason for this to exist.