idosubaru

yes - trucks and buses are different. I wouldn't compare cars to trucks or buses or vans. True. And I agree I wish Subaru would have trended in a way different than the market driven cup holder loving aesthetic addicted...but I guess I'm not surprised either.

We keep talking about different things, but basically agree. this is almost entirely mis-communication. Yes, 70's cars and old VW's are sweet rides and superior to Subaru's in many ways. But that's not what I'm talking about. I'm not denying that - I'm just not talking about it. Apples to apples comparison of *how they're used* and driven. Everything I've said is about that one point - "70's VW cars and muscle cars are not driven off road, burried in mud and snow". That's not an apples to apples comparison with how you drive your car. For instance, those 70's VW's and 70's cars aren't driven like this: They're great cars - I think the only disagreement we have is that you think there's a design reason they're better and I agree with that, but I think the design difference is small. I think most of the longevity difference is economic and social. They have a lack of electronics. That's a specific design element that makes them better in some ways. To me - the enormous parts supply is just because of the volume, economics, and social driven realities. The parts suppliers didn't make parts for them because they're reliable - they did it because there's money in it.

No I didn’t. your axles were an example. Old cars aren’t driven like an off road modified Subaru. here’s the question: Are those old cars driven HARD off road? Are they lifted with welded diffs, trouncing through mud and snow and getting winched out when stuck, and towing thousands of pounds? The answer is - No, those old cars are cute relics than can’t do jack !&@‘l off road. Again I do agree with you. Subarus aren’t special. But neither are old cars unless you like craptastic carburetors and suspension which have usually been reworked, rebuilt or replaced by now. But it’s just not an apples to apples comparison.

That one you linked to is fine - you should double check but I’ve swapped that exact one before as far as I can tell (some look really similar). it doesn’t have the external amps or odd cabling like the McIntosh. I probably have one at home I’ll ship to you for $45 if you want it.

That's my point - are those 70's and 50's cars driven like that? You are not wheeling those cars like you and I drive Subaru's. I wasn't comparing how I drive my Subaru to how you drive your Subaru. I'm comparing how we drive our Subaru's to how those old cars are used. Not even remotely the same. It's so obvious I think you're missing the point. Again - I agree, old cars have a grand place in American culture, they're good solid, simple rides, and Subaru's are what they are, not special...but every other cars is the same. Older cars have very different social and economic factors that keep them around and make it viable to produce parts for them - down to generational characteristics of who owned them, when they retired, fewer makes/cars, social and economic shifts through the 70's, 80's, 90's. "Longevity" is only very marginally related to them having antiquated carburetors (no wires/sensors) and simple suspension...which is often modified to modern suspension because of their inherent weaknesses. So for some of these parts - parts suppliers are making parts to over come weaknesses, not support infinitely viable original designs. I wasn't comparing our cars - I was comparing how you and I drive our subarus to your 70's and 50's examples. Your EA82 makes more power than my 6 cylinder old gen. That's impressive. I'm not sure I'd trust an EA82 to drive 4,000 miles towing 2,500 pounds (minimum, probably 3,000) up colorado Rocky mountain passes and up mountain trails to 10,000 feet. My 6 cylinder ran a little hot up those Colorado grades, I don't think an EA82 would have a chance of doing that or it would have taken 10 extra hours.

As you knew already, looks like they’re different. I’ve always just ordered a stock clutch, never paid attention to what’s interchangeable on new gen.

I’ve never had any stick but you’re exactly right Turn the lever and the plug comes out. Install new one, plug in, turn lever Back. yes 95-99 just remember 99 Forester and Impreza and ALL 99 2.2 are Phase II. if you’re using a 2.2 ECU I’d stick with 95-98 2.2 and 99 Outback or legacy 2.5 onky. Not 2.2 legacy in 99.

100% success rate repacking OEM and MWE (old school Subaru axle guy no longer building axles) axles with noise and vibration. Clean well regrease and done. be discerning - if they’ve seen gravel sand aggregate that takes them out quick. I drove some in south GA Pecan farm country and that sand devoured axles quickly. Obviously it’s sand. I was sand blasting them. Packing slings out quick on a broken boot but is a nice proof of concept if you’re not sure it’s worth your time. They’ll clear up quick just packing them

I’m inexperienced with performance clutches and high use applications for manuals trans so I can’t recommend anything. im surprised turbo clutches are that different. If you but a turbo clutch pressure plate and flywheel....it doesn’t fit?

Thanks good grief my link was 10 miles long.

Hahahhahaaa. Keep in mind I agree with you Suabrus arent some super hero car. They have a good fit for plenty of people like any other car but - You talk about beating the ever loving $&!& out of your axles - you can’t get any axle to work, every axles available you blow up, those of us driving 250k in old Subarus on original axles tell you to get OEM and you complain you blow them up in a year. So your 70s VW and friends old cars are being off road, have 30” tires, and seeing gobs of snow and salt all winter as you trash their axles too? How many miles are they driven? And how are you comparing them to those of us driving perfectly usable old gen Subarus every day probably more miles than all that impractical useless 70s stuff. I towed a loaded 6x12 trailer, nonworking 4 wheeler (don’t ask, it was for a friend), 4 people and hundreds of pounds of gear 2,000 miles up to 10,000 feet elk hunting with my old gen Subaru and drove it home full of elk meat I packed out with my own legs. 70s stuff = impractical novelty unless it’s a truck to me. Laughable useless cars toss some data up - of these cars and their mileages. not saying Subarus are some epitome of anything. They’d ARE NOT. I agree with you. They’re all just metal, who cares how long they last - just get what’s a good fit for your uses. But let’s at least talk data, miles, and apples to apples comparison.

Okay I saw that other thread you referenced about the stalk and switches. You seem to suggest that moving the stalk sometimes made a difference? If so maybe the issue is in the stalk or steering column area?

How often are the bulbs blowing and is the woman’s sons best friends changing it for her or is someone who knows what they’re doing installing it? I think you installed it so should be all good, just checking. If you suspect the circuit then testing would be preferable. look at the wiring diagram for the front headlight and see what shared wiring exists between both fronts. 1. see the FSM continuity or resistance tests for the bulb pinouts. 2. test the alternator output How do you know there’s no rodent damage? I’ve seen obvious damage, huge nests, rodents in the car - and I’ve seen wires buried under carpet and fenders with no nests smells or signs until hitting the wires with a multimeter and tracking down nothing but chewed wiring. Doesn’t really matter - if the headlight wiring is damaged and tested, the damage will be found no matter what the causation is.

Thanks for letting us know it worked out. That’s wild none of us responded back then!?

hahaaahahahaa!!! Tolerate me for 20 seconds. sounds like you’re pushing the OEM limits but to be clear: have you driven an OEM clutch brand new with brand new or resurfaced flywheel? Would that make a difference? probably won’t matter - a new one would be a used one shortly with that kind of work out. But if you’re only experience is 14 year old craigslist specials with unknown clutches and flywheels...? Can you use any of the turbo clutches? They’re throwing significant power and use at them and have figured out clutch options. EJ22T? EJ20T? EJ25T? I guess the issue is cost - OEM might be better but $$$. I’d probably pay it - clutches are about the worst job to cut costs on or take chances of redoing. Redoing a clutch is a mind numbing asinine waste of my time. I have turned down people asking me to install auto parts store clutches. I’m not risking doing that again. I do free labor only - I refuse payment - but I’m not going to waste my time or risk feeling like I need to do it again or be blamed for a failure....which I’ve seen on new aftermarket clutches.

1. Was the car ever wrecked, even lightly? 2. has it ever had rodent damage (this is not uncommon)? If it’s around farms or food (kids, let’s, urban areas flooded with rodents) - this becomes more probable but it can happen anywhere with mice 3. That custom wiring needs checked. Stock subaru wiring is robust and rarely problematic. There are of course very specific outlier models/years - it should be easy to find out if yours is because they stand out. Most 80s Subarus have all original stock wiring because Subarus are stout....except stereos lol Please don’t hear me criticizing - electrical issues that end up being caused by past electrical work is very high percentage causation. I’ve done it myself and fixed it on other peoples cars 100 times. It’s nearly ubiquitous and I’ve heard “it’s impossible for that to be it”....and then it is exactly that. that step can’t be skipped online with a car we can’t see and know nothing about. 4. Are there 10s of thousands of drivers that do *not* have this issue in 2012? I think the answer is yes. If it’s not yes then the fix and answer to all these 100s of thousands of fault 2010-2012s would be obvious and well known. I don’t think that’s the case so I wouldn’t immediately jump to “My car verified that the Subaru wiring is universally bad”. 5. there are good conversion kits for headlights. GD - user general disorder - has recommended some he uses which means he’s installed hundreds of them. I’d find his post about the brand he uses and go with those. - I currently have a 2012 Outback parked in my driveway right now.

4.8 stars, this is who LT is referencing I’m not referencing this shop but in general repairing unfinished projects is not most friends of mine ideal work - often encounter numerous time sucking issues that the original owner doesn’t understand or like. What might be a simple vacuum hose or wire issue might take them 4 hours to find. Lose-lose situation for them. They charge $50 and loose money to keep customer happy or they charge hourly rate for a total of $500 and customer is POed and gives tons of negative publicity. one of my friends had a sign in his shop: ”Repair - $80/hour you offer advice - $100/hour you bring parts - $120/hour you want to watch - $140/hour you already worked on it - $160/hr” As it was he was an extremely generous guy but point still stands https://www.google.com/search?q=superior+portland+oregon+subaru&client=safari&channel=iphone_bm&source=hp&ei=-nWEYP3uN8Sl1QGQqJLgCg&oq=superior+portland+oregon+subaru&gs_lcp=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&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#trex=m_t:lcl_akp,rc_f:rln,rc_ludocids:9281476762617538388,ru_lqi:Ch9zdXBlcmlvciBwb3J0bGFuZCBvcmVnb24gc3ViYXJ1IgOIAQFIzZb0k-2AgIAIWjEKBnN1YmFydRADGAAYARgCIh9zdXBlcmlvciBwb3J0bGFuZCBvcmVnb24gc3ViYXJ1kgEQYXV0b19yZXBhaXJfc2hvcJoBI0NoWkRTVWhOTUc5blMwVkpRMEZuU1VOdmVtOWZlRTEzRUFFqgEOEAEqCiIGc3ViYXJ1KAA,trex_id:gl9nOe

True - these aren’t some special units of supreme longevity....but What cars ever were that were high volume production vehicles? The only reason there’s a market for 60s and 70s stuff is because people are willing to pay for it, they’re not typically daily drivers, and there’s fewer options/variables - not because they were inherently built to last forever in high use diary driver, snow, work, hauling practical use. It’s rare to see any older vehicles around except trucks and Subarus. Much of that is rust driven here - but still Subarus are sticking around longer than any other car Start driving all those old cars like they’re even remotely practical - every day and hauling stuff from Lowe’s and driving to work sites and that market would change real fast too.

Yes. Impreza and legacy fronts bolt in. Use early Impreza caliper brackets with XT6 slide pin install on it so you can retain XT6 calipers up front. A few threads on that here in this forum. 00-04 rear Legacy coil struts bolt into rear EA82/XT6 as well but the top mount needs swapped over - install XT stuff onto Outback - I’m not sure how conducive air struts will be to that but it’s definitely possible to get it to bolt up...not sure how it would perform or if it would hold air. I’ve disassembled them and wasn’t sure if the top bushings seal the strut rod in some meaningful way in terms of holding the air in. I don’t think they do but I’d want to verify before deciding Also the 2 people that have done the rear struts haven’t been clear. It was said to be possible and then it was said the strut rods would fail prematurely - possible due to the OB struts being designed to mounting flush and XTs mounting at an angle..?

Unbolt it and drop it out. People refresh diff bushings with some kind of urethane or window weld or something. Use that to refresh the bushings here as well?

Is this the case - If the bolt is turning - keep turning them all a little at a time and they have to come free of their captive nuts and it would drop out? Then extract the bolt off the vehicle. You surely know this but to be clear - the tighter they are the less degrees they can be turned and more time to let them cool due to localized heating at the source of the tightness. Turn one bolt 360 degrees, go work on another one, turn it 360 degrees...wash rinse repeat, give sufficient time for them to cool down and avoid that localized heating issue There are times lubricant can’t get to areas it needs too.

Is the bolt not moving or whizzing around not loosening when under an impact gun? Is it free from the captive side it threads into?

Any non bushing damaging lubricant would help. Heat...oh wait you dont want to damage it. If the bushing is seized to the shaft snd turning it seems nearly impossible to get them to separate. Anything that lubricates will make the bushing also spin easier inside the housing so there’s no net gain and: ”turning bolt and bushing inside housing” < “turn bolt inside bushing” will always be true. Reduce one will probably reduce both? I like to torch the !$@!& out of them or just buy rust free Subarus from Georgia. I’ve wasted too much life with rust.

Like those 80's/90's Volvo brake calipers - two machined parts bolted together with brake fluid passages running through them...and no gasket or orings at all? I opened one up one time and it would never seal when I tried to put it back together. That was pretty wild, I wasn't expecting it.

here's a few I found with a cursory glance, presumably there are more with a little effort: https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/your-opinions-on-re-using-head-gasket.174570/ https://somespeed.com/questions/if-i-installed-a-headgasket-upside-down-and-torque-it-and-noticed-later-on-i-installed-it-wrong-can-i-still-use-the-same-headgasket/