idosubaru

Not "all" of us were. Carfreak wasn't, and I wasn't focused on the cutting of the springs - just the seating and installation. Any time you say "cut springs" people in automotive world loose their heads and tend to relay anecdotes more than personal experience. So it was just the bushings? You didn't have any tire wear with bushings that bad?

Same pistons, valves, injectors, HLAs, fuel filter and fuel pump (both same location too) and overall engine design as MPFI EA82 with two more cylinders. The electronics and many sensors are different. but I have gotten 4 cylinder EA82 XTs to yard run on 6 cylinder ECUs (or was it the other way around?) just by plugging and playing the ECU with no custom or wiring work at all (it was ugly but it did start and move). So the electronics are different but they’re in the same zip code. XT6 has considerably common, more so than the EA82, CTS and IAC issues.

True, but those are all maintenance items, not repair items. this isn’t quite ‘throwing parts at it’. issues can prompt upcoming or needed maintenance, that’s even sometimes recommended. Unless they’re relatively new it’s not a waste on a daily driver. Accurate information would help a lot, right now we get one confusing statement after another - keep in mind we can’t see hear or smell the car, we know nothing except what you tell us: 1. A little relevant history would help - how old are the plugs wires air cap rotor? When was the last time it didn’t run or had issues and what caused that? 2. what does “no lights” on the dash mean? Is it that the warning lights aren’t indicating a problem? or none of the lights work at all - like not even night time background speedometer lights? 3. “he thinks it’s the same”....’the same’ as what? Same as you think, or same as it always has been and he thinks there’s no problem - meaning it’s intermittent?

Focus on the struts. One or both are probably trashed if you’re sure they were properly assembled and installed.

Three potential issues: If it's not OEM or KYB struts - then anything is possible - you got 6 months out of them in a *custom* rig, sounds. Unfortunately many, even known brands, suck on Subaru's for some reason. It's so common that I can't begin to decipher whether Monroe has a chance of beating those horrible odds after 6 months. EA82 springs can be cut and used in the rear, it wasn't uncommon years ago in specific situations and I never heard of anyone having issues. But that's with stock/Subaru springs. when i've cut springs before the ends are often at nonideal angles that don't seat into the form factor of the perch or top hat and they're prone to make noise, want to slide around under certain loading conditions once installed. i've never seen one fail or pop out but i don't trust them enough to daily drive it either. Was there any chance these aftermarket springs had odd seating due to lack of fitment where they seat? Strut springs should not be able to be installed by hand - Subaru rear springs aren't terribly loaded when installed relative to the front, but if they can be installed easily by hand this sounds like an obvious thing to check. You're saying you have strut assembly issues - it has to be a failed installation, strut, or coil spring issues....those last two seem quite possible from reading on a screen...which has limitations of course..

Describe how it's running and what it does? Is it so bad it's not drivable or you just can't get your 1/4 mile times in? Was there *any work at all* done prior to this issue or it's been driving great for 6 months with no problems and no work? CTS location...***the sensor is not the issue*** Replacing the sensor often gives the same symptoms, because the sensor isn't the issue. Or if it does 'fix' it, it's only temporary because the corroded connector/wiring will cause the same thign to happen to the new sensor. It is next to thermostat housing/the second radiator cap "on the engine", not the radiator cap. Pull the connector and look at the contacts in the connector - are they shiny metal or something else? You can temporarily clean them to improve drivability - with a tiny pick clean the connector and bits of folded sand paper to clean the CTS. But ultimately the wiring will need replaced/repaired as I stated in my previous reply. Check the spark plug wires - mist them in the dark or test resistance and see if they're all the same or look up the spec's in the FSM. Timing is set via a timing light and adjusting the distributor via loosening the two small hold down bolts and sliding it within the slots. Follow the timing adjustment procudure in the FSM - which should be available free online, it's been around the internet for 10+ years now. I'd get it.

This is XT6 specific. I've probably fixed XT6 CTS's more times than most people have seen one. They get corrosion in the plug that plugs into the top of the CTS. The sensor contacts are covered, the plug contacts are completely covered, and it can also go up into the insulation of the wiring a few inches back into the wiring harness. There's a generic fuel injector connector that's the same plug with pigtail that splices right in place and there are no parts to remove to access it so the repair is easy. You can even solder wire to the 2 CTS spades, then splice that new wire back into the wiring harness. Attach it to the wiring harness with a simple disconnect plug so that the sensor or harness can be removed/replaced if needed.

I’m sure you’re aware of this but car-part.com I’ve seen some Canadian shops on there and every one I’ve ever called will mail parts. Sometimes places want absurd prices for struts, I guess people are desperate not to compress springs. But sometimes you can get used struts for $25. One or two of those and you’ve got spare stock spring and top hat. The rears don’t have bearings so the bushing material is either cracked badly or not. Maybe I already mentioned this - rear 05-09 struts are interchangeable, so if the rear springs and mounts are interchangeable as well, it might expand the search for newer/lower miles used springs and top mounts. I bought a set of used front stock 2008 legacy struts last year. springs went on an older vehicle and one top mount went on my Tribeca. The other top mount was fine so I only needed one. inexpensive way to get replacement OEM springs and struts. But of course all of that is easier here

oh we forgot the most important items, I sort of skipped these since you didn’t mention check engine light: 1. Is the check engine light on? Have you read the stored codes? 2. Are the CTS connections clean or corroded. By far the most common xt6 issue. That can be problematic and not trigger the check engine light, though it usually does. If you have spark at each cylinder then the cap, rotor, and wires and coil are all good. If you don’t have spark then one of those is bad.

check for spark at each cylinder Check plugs or how old are they if you don’t want to pull them? Check timing belts both sides. Check for fuel. I just yank the line incoming to engine bay and crank the key - should flow out like a scaled down garden hose. Replace distributor cap and rotor. any auto parts should be able to get it or order online

BZZZT ! I’ll take he misread my sentence for $200 Alex. It said coil options, not KYB coils. Notice it’s a Canadian reference lol Did you Google those brands with “Subaru” and without for reviews? Moog is ubiquitous in shop and DIY world across a wide spectrum of applications, Subaru reviews seem likely. You’re quick so I’m sure you noticed usmb is tiny compared to most forums. They’re typically not replaced here, so finding a used set isn’t a bad idea...but they are old. 05-09 springs might fit, getting into newer/lower miles if you have any used joints close by. I know the struts interchange have you conclusively diagnosed the coils as the issue (maybe you don’t need them and it’s bushings?), or you’re game to just replace while they’re apart?

Rock carries KYB top mount, coil options, and ships CAN. You’re all set!

Don't bother calling - OEM mounts are $$$$. Get KYB or used ones. I installed more used OEM ones than new. They don't fail that often and it's really obvious - either the bearings are crunchy or the rubber is cracking/separating...it's usually the bearings. I've replaced some due to severe rust rotting out the body and strut mounts - that doesn't sound like what you'll encounter.

Just when I thought I knew all the failure modes of aftermarket struts....they surprise me!

I’ve got some !@!$&’ aftermarket strut stories too but I’m not typing them. Luckily I didn’t install any of them. Id use aftermarket springs if they’re the right size rate and diameters. We use them on older gen Subarus to dial in our lifted ride heights. I’ve bought them and they’re super common across a wide range of applications. Not sure I’d want no name hack job recycled backwoods Chinese refrigerator metal - but I don’t even know if brands like that exist for springs outside my head.

Also for people who carry or tow a lot, the turbo baja rear springs are a small, common upgrade in stiffness and raise the rear car about 1/2”. I installed them on mine because I tow a lot and often carry lots of gear and people. Thats 2004 baja turbo rear springs installed on 00-04 outback struts and mounts.

KYB all the way. If you want to risk a little performance and potential reliability for $, then give the cheap ones a try. They can’t be unusable, or people and shops wouldn’t be installing them. The set a shop installed for a friend were horrific - floaty feeling like every bump is a butterflies in your stomach. They were quiet and worked I couldn’t stand them and I’m in the lower percentile of people who care about suspension Mounts are the only non-negotiable for me. Aftermarket mounts are a trash heap. They’re routinely dismissed by Subaru people for good reason. You can probably find videos or pics of them bulging up as soon as they’re installed. I’ve seen it before. I’ve had a few old Subarus that weren’t long for this world that seemed like good fits to install cheap aftermarket mounts on. Surely they all can’t be bad and I can get away this time....nope. One failed in less than a week. Entire top rubber bushing blew out and the rod and all was just flopping around. If someone asked me to install an aftermarket strut I’d try to talk them out of it but I’d do it if they begged. Mounts - no way in a hundred years. I’ll install used Subaru mounts before aftermarket. And I have done that before. Subaru mounts are so robust I routinely swap out a bad mount for a good one with no rubber cracking or bearings crunching. They’re robust. I’m sure failure has happened and I’ve seen some really bad 250,000 mile mounts, but I’ve never seen one fail across triple digit numbers of Subarus but I’ve seen numerous aftermarket issues in 5 total cases...

Definitely use that first. Maybe even torch it first. I’ve got a good one, it wouldn’t work on any of the 50+. there were only 4 that came off with the impact. The rust flaked off the Allen head corners leaving nothing to grip too.

Rear spring(s). Replace the rear springs when you replace the struts. They’re cheap from Subaru - like $30. I think I’ve seen this before. New struts will do the same thing and eventually get worse, dancing side to side when hitting certain bumps. Subaru springs are robust and rarely need replaced but those symptoms point to them. wait - did it hit any bumps, even small or was it perfectly smooth road? Maybe it was due to cornering and loading and more bushing related than spring/strut but I’d still think springs ive never seen front springs do it or have symptoms. Check all rear bushings too. The rear alignment bushings will almost certainly be seized and need torched out. They do that anywhere, no rust state needed.

I don’t know if it’s changes or not. my buying habits and constant rust driven shift to newer cars are too different to say. Quietcast, Subaru, and sometimes a name brand mid-grade lower cost/on sale at rockauto if it’s someone that’s cash strapped. I rarely install Advanced Auto Parts silver (they’re lowest offering) any more, but used to use them frequently. I’m pretty sure I did some grinding on those - but that’s when I was doing 90s Subarus too and I almost never do those any more...and my memory could be wrong!

The good thing is that you’ve essentially already done this. Someone else posting the same question might be ill equipped and way over their head. It’s laid out like any other Subaru engine in terms of form factor. the ez engine bolts up to the transmission and engine crossmember of the 4 cylinder Subarus you’ve done. The timing chain is the same location and “line up the marks” ideology as Subaru belts, with one simple measurement suggested in the FSM.... Just with 100 asinine allen head cover bolts. If they’re rusted I’ve ordered a complete set of hex head bolts to replace them with instead. I posted a thread how to remove rusty ones with a chisel in a few seconds rather than drilling/torching. If it’s leaking coolant externally you might be able to avoid the headgasket replacement altogether. *Initial* *external* leaks of *factory* installed stock gaskets respond with basically a 100% success rate to Subaru $2.50 coolant conditioner. Each of those starred words is chosen carefully. If it’s the original gasket, which is likely, and it wasn’t left go to long, it would work here as well. But then you’re already sitting on a partially disassembled engine so working backwards might not be a good fit.

Here here for local! been trying to buy as much local and made in the USA as I can since about Nov. keep it up! I don’t think that’s the case any more, which you implied anyway, wix supplying Subaru. Sometimes I think Napa’s premium brand is said to be wix. But I’ve never looked into it.

The timing chain covers in H6 vehicles that have been in rust prone areas would be a point to note. Those 60 bolts can be bad enough they won’t come out with the intended bits to remove them. Be ready to address those if they appear rusty. With almost 60 of them you don’t want each one taking 3 minutes to access or drill out - that would be 3 hours just to remove the outer cover. you could also try to determine which side is failed and only replace the one bad side. Although I’m not sure how - pull plugs? the ones I’ve done have worse high and low spots than 4 cylinder Subaru engines. I don’t know if that’s just coincidence or H6s are more prone to that, but I resurface them all anyway. There is one nod to reliability driven decision for JDM. H6s are like DOHC head gaskets and prone to random overheating in the initial stages. I’ve seen overheating events spaced out by months. This also means they’re far more likely to be limped along, improperly diagnosed and repaired and overheated again over long periods of time. These repeated overheating attempts are bad for the lower end bearings and a valid reason for JDM. The ones I repair I know the vehicle and owner well and have an idea how bad it was overheated. The ones I replaced have signs of significant or repeat overheating events or unknown/unsure.

I’ve seen unfamiliar brands for $3 or $6 on rockauto. Never tried those. I haven’t had to grind pads down for awhile. Does it still happen? On newer stuff? I didn’t know if manufacturers finally adjusted their dimensions or it was just 90s stuff that I don’t work on any more or because I’m more consistently buying the same brand pads without issues so I’m just not seeing it

I’ve done Subarus insitu, including H6s, but not an EZ30. I don’t mind doing them that way sometimes but the EZ would be a time sucking basket case. Have multiple jacks so you can tilt the engine to a favorable angle side to side. Lift drivers side while working on drivers side for example. Almost roll the engine over. What is a TSM and where does it say it can be done in the engine?