idosubaru

Read current and stored codes check fuel pressure as said Disconnect oxygen sensor connector and see if anything changes? I’d swap a spare MAF, it’s so easy. but I have extras so that’s easy for me to say the SPFI doesn’t have a knock sensor does it?

I've gotten aftermarket, some come in packs of two or multiples for a good price, but not for 2015+ and they fit fine, but i don't recall brand or them being notably bad. Try one and compared it to the (likely) OEM one you remove and see how they compare. I find it very unlikely a car cabin is sealed off enough for a filter to significantly improve on the conditioned, non allergenic space except in very limited (physical, environmental, physiological) circumstances.

Chassis rails. Rear diff. EA82s have a small rear structure point just in front of the rear tires but offset inward like the front chassis rail. If you set the jack far enough back on the chassis rail and it goes high enough you can jack the entire side of the car off the ground - both wheels. That’s how I rotate tires and swap summer/winter tires/wheels

chips...bread...they’re both carbs in the end. Hahahaha

If they’re done right it’s probably okay. If you have time and $ keep an eye out for the same generation lightly wrecked Forester for sale and swap parts. I’ll repeat my previous reply. With all that rust it’ll always be high potential for issues. I’d move on. but I get it sometimes you have to make work what you got. I’d just try real hard to get away from that mentality if you can

Awesome. Good job bringing it back to life!

Hope you get those cams knocked off. Those sound nasty. The goof probably locktited them. I’m sure you know this snd I’ve never had to use them, but there’s supposed to be a flat spot to hold with a wrench on the camshafts if you pull the VCs.

Which lines concern you in the photo - like what distance from the block? Can you mark or describe it...or measure via an iPhone 8 screen haha!

Can you feel any of it with your fingers? Towed or drive it all the way from Oregon leaking that bad? Hate to waste time on a guess, but I’d install a new Subaru seal and see if it holds. They can handle some visible surface scuffing. And a good chance the hardened, ancient (aftermarket?) seal caused the leak rather than the crank surface. I’d be more surprised if it leaked than if it didn’t...but im assuming it’s not worse than the ones I’ve seen with scratchy surfaces.and I’m sure that’s possible. Use a Subaru OEM seal....hahaha. I know you wouldn’t use anything else!

That's excellent. I'd get it running and see where it's at/what it needs before deciding a rebuild. It's generally easy to get them to start and run - clean out old fuel and make sure the tank isn't rusty from sitting. Clean out the fuel lines and gas tank if needed. Replace fuel filter. Plan on the carb being trashed...they always are after sitting for a year LOL. You'll have to do these anyway so there's no lost time doing this without an engine build. Free up the engine, get it lubricated and moving. If that goes reasonably well (it often does) - then fire it up and see what you get. You might be surprised. If a rebuild is needed - it probably just needs the cylinders cleaned and new rings and you're golden. The bearings are probably fine if it wasn't mixing oil/coolant, it was full of oil, and not sitting in nasty humid conditions MT in cities is horrible, waste of my time and energy! The boat docks and ramps I've been around aren't exactly manual trans friendly either if they're busy and you're going those places to drop scuba gear.

success - good! Wow - wonder how many missed or delayed diagnosis I've had since I can't smell anything. post of the year!

Good calls - engine or trans pull required for those so they’re essential in addition to pilot and throw out bearing. to the OP the rear breather plate is the same as the aforementioned separator plate. Subaru sells them and the screws for them all the time, they’ll know exactly what you need.

An oem 96 would have a metal unless replaced already metal plates require different screws, the originals will be too long and bottom out due to metal style being thinner. Or you’d have to use originals with washers for spacers.

Cable and EJ22 for the win! Both better. Use Haynes for kindling and sounds like you’re all set!

every subaru from 1980's to 2010's is like the same regarding engine pull - remove mounts/exhaust/hoses/wiring/a/c/starter, flexplate bolts/radiator fans....tilt the same angle/prop trans up. just a few very minor changes in engine mount locations...etc - otherwise they're all basically identical.

video any EJ engine pull, use any 1996-1999 FSM for clutch install (they're free all over the internet). If it's an EJ25 (GT, LSi, outback) - then it's a hydraulic clutch. Ej22 is cable. it won't matter for the current clutch install, that's all the same, but good to know once you start flipping through pages and watching videos. If it is an EJ25 with hydraulic clutch i'd throw that garbage away and convert to cable while it's apart. lol

The standard response for decades has been EU injectors and ECU were different....but I've never seen much that definitively confirms that. With different gas, testing, government regs, it might be hard to find out unless someone has flow tested both injectors or dumped both source codes...

Yes. But there’s nuance. They came from the factory with the “updated” 770 headgasket. Updated gasket from the factory. Or to say it another way - you get the updated gasket installed under new assembly conditions. Not updated gasket after failing and assembly with new parts which is a very reasonable repair option most of us are comfortable with. So it’s the best EJ25 possibility but not immune.

If leaking or sat for awhile, reseal and refresh fluids. If it blew a rod through the block - find another engine or swap.

Ah too bad John is that your really nice legacy that’s I’ve seen? That’s too bad, you’ve kept it nice. But I get it, sometimes it’s time. You could try the secret hand shake and see if it’s spits out an AT code. Putting it in neutral before coming to a stop is a brilliant suggestion to see if it’s lock up related.

Ah too bad. Sold, scrapped or you got a yard ornament now?....?

Still have the justy?

Youre on it - they’ve got more than two. But they’re places further forward and not in the mid pipes like some older models There may even be a few differences - like CA, non CA, 00-04, 05-09, Tribeca/Outback. I’m unsure if all of those H6s have the same number?

Yes, this - they can tell which (or how many) sensor it is. Ideally they don’t charge for diagnosis and eventual repair. If so I’d rather hand them sensors and pay once to have it done...but that’s only viable if you know it’s a bad sensor for sure. Which has always been the case on known vehicles I’m working on. Drive fine for years then light comes on...been a sensor every time.

The cam sensor comes off - there's an additional support bracket with two bolts oriented at 90 degrees facing the battery right behind the sensor (to the left of the sensor when looking from the engine bay). remove those two bolts and the support bracket comes off allowing the sensor to come out. If it random dies then it shouldn't be the idle control valve. Ah right - 99 year, got it.