idosubaru

Sometimes there's a plate or part like that in the interior rear corners that is related to the vehicle jack or antenna structures. it is interesting that a part that large can be so sneaky to find.

I'd lean towards staying with your current dealer. And yes you're correct you do not need to do those services. It's straight marketing, that's it. I view that stuff like billboards - laugh or ignore it. 1. Follow your owners manual 2. ask here if you have any questions. The End. That's fairly standard marketing practices across *all dealerships*. I would suggest sticking with them if you trust and have a relationship with the staff - service advisors or mechanics. Don't let marketing dictate this - let the staff and actual services dictate it. With new ownership this is coming from much higher than the local staff and is certainly some marketing program or strategy they're just copying from someone else - many dealers (and online car forums - but not this one!) are bought by huge (sometimes international) conglomerates that try to monetize their holdings. Many communcations and mailings aren't even done in house - some company in germany pays a 3rd party company to do the mailings and communications and keeps track of them. It's not even happening at your local dealer at all - the decisions or mailings. They don't talk about "spending" money on mailings. They say it like this "We generated $1.34 for every dollar we spent last year on that 3rd party company". Anyway - maybe that wasnt' your dealer, maybe your neighbor bought the dealer. But either way I wouldn't let marketing strategies impact what I think about the staff who actually talk to me and work on my car. If you go to another dealer - they ight not have the wheel recommendations but they probably have other marketing strategies that you'd have to be drunk to think they'll favor customers over generating sales, loyalty, connectivity, returns, etc. If the marketing gets signifincaltly worse over time that it is impacting services and decisions- then yes start looking elsewhere. That can happen too - but I wouldnt' let one tire marketing trick dictate that.

I don't think he's silly. I do understand where you're coming from, few of us enjoy being on hold and post selfies about it! haha. That said.. I respect and value the willingness to work with the local community more than the quickest way to "get what I want", or get a dollar, mentality. Being on hold usually just means you do paperwork, cleaning, organizing, small tasks, etc. Not a big deal for outlier instances.

don't do it. it's horrible. start calling texting or emailing or having coffee with people more often instead, that's more social and beneficial than social media. i have a couple of business owner friends who aren't on social media. i say business owners - because they have some strong reasons to use social media but don't. they have minimalistic/ghost/fake accounts and only use them to look at facebook marketplace or to be able to open a link someone else texts them. they're not the type that says they don't use it - they literally never use it, have never invited or connected with any family or friends on it. they've made up names that aren't searchable - like use their middle name mispelled, put minimal information up, and don't connect with any friends or family on it at all - if they need a couple "friends" they'll just invite some distant acquaintenances that aren't connected or some random local jokers to friend them as place holders. so you could do that - get a facebook just to see links or use marketplace - just totally avoid even giving any one you're information or connecting even with your closest people on it. if forums are college, social media is middle school. the same questions get asked every week, bad answers and suggestions run rampant, and there's a lot of "look at me". basically take the worst that forums had to offer and magnify it a few orders of magnitude...but there's no pros to social media unless you're lazy or physically impaired and can't login to another site. good luck getting the brat back up and running!

Oh that's too bad, that sounds like the time sucking horror job variety. I've broken 3 jaw pullers and brake rotors trying to push stubs through. 3 jaw puller on the brake rotor and POW - the rotor shatters. hopefully you get lucky but torch/press/cutting might be needed.

Get under there and grab it and thrust it towards the diff and the hub - is there any play? If it's just a ring of slight corrossion then it might work, but if it's got consistent corrossion that's going to pull across the entire splined area even a little movement isn't going to free the entire thing. So you try a little and see what happens. Here's the issue: If it's rusty - like if the car is from the north - sometimes they won't budge with smashing with a hammer and you'll compress the threads so much that the axle nut won't thread back on and the end will be mushroomed out enough that it won't pull through the hub. So yeah you can try bashing it - but don't do it so hard that the end threads start to comrpess and mushroom out. You're in florida - rust that bad isn't going to be as common as it is up here, but there are plenty of northern transplants down there as well. In these cases a torch is your friend unless you love pounding and getting creative - those are beastly time sucking jobs.

Did you look for a part number on it? Quite a few plastic parts have the part number molded right into the part. Then google it.

Great, glad to hear it bolted right up. Thanks for the follow up.

Did you install it yet or just ordered or received it?

Maybe this will help - compare all of your axles in the same way (connected/not/inner joint/outer joint/etc) - if they all seem identical then what you're experiencing is probably normal. If 3 are the same and one is notably different then you probably have an issue. I'm also unsure of what you're asking or describing or the "play". CV's aren't fixed solid axle F150's and will have some "play" depending what you mean. They can sort of "clink back and forth" normally if you're twisting and turning them...again depending what you mean - on the vehicle, off the vehicle, partially disassembled, is the trans in park, car off the ground, car on the ground, ebrake on...etc.

No code - that's gotta feel good to at least have some progress already! Good news! That means the code no longer exists. It doesn't "reset itself". If the problem exists, the light stays lit no matter how many "cycles". It either sees an issue or not - if it does, it triggers the light. If it doesn't - no light. If my guess yesterday was the cause - humidity/wetness - that can evaporate and rectify the causative issue and check engine light. That's one reason I suggested the national chains instead of a shop - they're typically open longer hours, not inconvenienced by it, and the code is the only thing needed. Mechanic should be able to check memory and see what code was tripped.

That'll work - although any national parts store can scan it for free and easier. With a mechanic - it's taking away from their ability to generate income to ask them to do something that simple that can be done free and easy elsewhere. I'd rather know the code before I talk to the shop about fixing/repairing.

Good information! Easy - Have her get the check engine light code scanned. It's free at any national chain - Advance Auto Parts, NAPA, Auto Zone, OReilly...etc. All of them come right out and scan the code for free for you. You do nothing, you pay nothing. Tell her to write down the code they scan, like P0301 or whatever it is. We don't want the person's diagnosis or distilled feedback, we want the actual code. The check engine issue disables those other systems and causes those other lights - very common. So you start there - read the check engine light and ignore everything else. Maybe. My guess is all the slush ice snow may have caused local humidity and excessive moisture around ignition components in the engine bay in which case you'd get a "Cylinder misfire code" - P0301...or 2...3...or 4 for which cylinder is problematic. But there's no point in guessing - read the codes first.

Subaru gasket. Those others and variable thickness are unnecessary. Clean the head bolts, holes, and resurface the heads. You don't need an engine stand. An old tire works well for holding the engine if your capable of moving it around some. Prop the tire up on wood or pavers or stone or whatever and you're golden. "Rafters" - just don't do a point load of one or a couple points - spread the load out over as many "rafters" as possible. Lay some 2x lumber edgewise across as many rafters as you can - preferrably spreading it out over a few rafters/trusses rather than just one or two rafters and one or two points. Lay a couple 12' 2x's across 3 or 6 or whatever you can get rafters and then use that, rather than the rafters, to hoist from. Garage "rafters" are too variable in spacing, design, loading, rafters/trusses/bottom chords, hurricane straps, tornado, local code, outside of code..and are they already loaded with storage or compromised due to age in some way... etc to comment. Ideally you have 2' spacing trusses, some "pole barn" type garages like metal siding/roofing company installed versions are 4+ spacing. Most aren't designed for any significant live or point loads like you're intending but you can get away with it just fine if you spread the load out like I said. Don't be dumb or just hook it up and go - think about it for a couple minutes, slide some boards up there and you'll be fine....I mean as fine as you can be without sending me pictures of the rafters...legal disclaimer...you might die...etc. I designed roofing systems for my first engineering job, we specialized in complex structures.....not your typical home builders/congtractor or lowes type stuff, though i did plenty of that easy stuff as well.

Oh yeah, totally. I was surprised texas has that much variation particularly where you live. Carlsbad direction maybe. And it was interesting to me, what the high/lows distribution would look like across the US...I just like data.

You are spot on - If it’s rust free then it’s not probably rust related.

GD how are you keeping 100 gallons of gasoline fresh? Diesel? That’s a sad situation in TX. The arguing and finger pointing is awful and doesn’t bode well for the future. We’ve been out of power 9 days before. LT that’s interesting. I wonder what average high-low spreads are in the US. Feb here would be around -15 and 65, so about 80. We’ve seen -25 and 70 in Feb but not sure if the same day. We live in such a sparse area, I didn’t see any official stats with a cursory google search.

Wow, that’s almost hard to believe in Texas. Nuts. Negative Fahrenheit?!

Definitely! negative 6 degrees at my house this morning. He’s a little south and in a city - considerably warmer than me but its frigid in Texas terms.

1. Needs bled. I hear it’s been bled a lot - but it’s hard to tell without having done it myself. I’ve seen a number of times when a system is opened like that that they’ll need more than a 32 ounce bottle to get all the air out. Like 2 32 ounces. Not those little useless bottles. if it hasn’t run 60 ounces straight of proper bleeding I wouldn’t rule this out 2. If it’s got any rust the rear lines can leak above the gas tank and you won’t see it for awhile. The rust migrates through layered rust just soaking it and if it drips it hits the top of the gas tank with gobs of dust that soaks it up. Takes awhile to get enough build up to flow over the edge and finally be visible. But I don’t know if you’re in a rusty area Subaru master cylinders fail so rarely that I wouldn’t assume it this early. The one time I swore up and down it had to be a master cylinder i replaced it and same symptoms. It ended up being rust like I described above

* I already know all the literature and decades of discussions about this. That’s not helpful here. Friends insurance towed his non running 1998 legacy 4EAT (has a 96 engine) 12 miles on a dolly. 1. would a blackstone lab test of the ATF be able to show any excessive clutch, or other, material? General disorder what say you to that? Does anyone know if there’s a chance this this thing is fine? 12 miles maybe he can get lucky? I’m sure someone has done it before!!?? Has anyone actually seen a verified 4EAT failure this way?

totally get that. i wouldn't go out of my way for one but they're so simple, predictable, and reliable enough for daily driver use they don't bother me either for some situations.

You just want to do it and are well versed enough to do so and have the extra time - have at it man! You're not a noob asking random questions. I only say keep it EA82 because of time - EA82 headgaskets are a breeze to do in the vehicle. passengers side head can be off before the engine is out. The torque, weight, and parts availability variations are small and practically insignificant. In terms of actual track times and data - they are meaningless. If the tires/gearing/weight is such that the EA82 is underpowered then I'd want more than an EA81 has to offer. But in your pro-con list you didn't even mention the EA82 so you're thinking about this completely different than me. So go get that engine lift ready!

You should list your car when you have specific questions. I think you’ve got a newer Subaru if I recall correctly from your other threads. For daily driver uses that car is set up to perform very well right from the factory. Drive and enjoy. If you have some specific goals - what are they? You haven’t stated any so I’d just ignore people...including me...and enjoy it. Id pretty much enjoy the car for what you want out of it not what other people think. I’d basically ignore anyone’s opinion. Anyone seeing a new car and commenting on mods....I’d just internally shake my head and want to be around different people who don’t think that way. But alas that’s me sorry. On to the merits of “to mod or not”. I work on a lot of Subaru’s and maybe 1% of commentary I hear is practically or factually accurate. Most people are regurgitating, striking up conversation, giving low grade anecdotal feedback, glad someone is listening to their jabbering (I mean we all like it when people listen to us!), or vicariously living through you. You are not likely to run into a well versed subaru informant. All of what I just said is 5 times truer if you have a turbo vehicle...and maybe 10 times truer if you’re a female who owns a turbo. Sounds asinine but it’s probably accurate. Nod politely and move on. I hate trying to help someone with a car when a “friend” is there commenting - it’s usually total garbage, made up to sound cool guesswork - and I’m going to do the real work and get things done while they do nothing. There’s a reason they’re only doing the talking and I’m the one making things happen. Wash rinse repeat - seen it countless times If it’s a turbo don’t use anything but synthetic and change the automatic (if it’s an auto) trans fluid at 50k even if the manual says otherwise. Older turbos it was a good idea to remove the banjo bolt screens. but here’s where you should ignore me - I generally avoid turbos so that’s probably archaic info. Someone else will know if there’s any “really should consider doing this” mods and if those banjo screens are a thing on newer turbos Otherwise don’t do anything except what you want.

Dealers choice, but I'd keep it stock unless there's a very compelling reason otherwise. Some of the swaps/conversions I've done were awesome. Probably close to just as many were probably a waste of time besides a learning experience. I'd consider it a waste of time until something really convinced me otherwise. But I've got a lot more experience and my time is more valuable now. If you've got all the time in the world and aren't too concerned about time - then yeah have at it.