idosubaru

Don’t think so. Terrible shifting and lack of fluid changes. During non-shifting driving the synchros aren’t doing anything are they? A couple 200k+ subarus that never had the trans fluid changes, had crunchy popping out synchros. Maybe it wasn’t fluid but seems suspicious.

You think coil or map were likely culprit?

Yes - fuel pressure regulator will cause wet fuel to pass into the vaccuum hose.l....I think. I just asked someone about this like a week or two ago in another thread who mentioned a bad fuel pressure regulator. I always wondered how to diagnose a bad one and they said they pulled the vacuum hose and it was wet inside. I think.... 20 years go I had an XT6 (I’ve owned like 20 XTs), which had a terrible stuttering and drive ability issue I couldn’t track down, no check engine light. I started it and went around bending all the engine harness wires in my hand, massaging them, start to finish. When I got to the TPS wiring, about 4 inches from the sensor I could massage the wire and make the engine vacillate between running great, stalling, or stuttering. Subaru wanted $300 for the entire engine harness. I cut out the TPS and wiring and spliced in a used TPS connector and as much wiring behind it as I could out of a parts car. Car ran fine. If you’re seeing this as a potential wiring issue you could try working those wires as I described. I only saw this one time so that’s anecdotal and not worth guessing it could be your issue. but it might be worth a try for the TPS if it sometimes seem related to throttle position.

Yes turbo engine needs a controller. You can’t plug and play a turbo...or I’m not familiar with how that’s done besides the uncommon method I’ll mention in a moment. swap the wiring harness from turbo vehicle as well - engine to ECU. ECU is under the dash - cut and rip it all out. Or use a stand alone controller. Or ghetto control it and rig up an SPFI injector and rising rate fuel pressure regulator while carefully monitoring your EGTs or wide and O2 - whatever you need to not blow it up.

Got it. I see. I wasn’t speaking from an environmental impact perspective. I make assumptions because i have no context. I go where the data leads which is that very few old Subaru owners make repair decisions based on environment or EPA. Hats off to you for being different. I always say if I’m like other Americans I’m probably doing something wrong! I didn’t mean fear as a psychological diagnosis or cut down or for semantic accuracy. I’ve been helping people for years and many people are hesitant to buy aftermarket, have exhaust work done, or worry about inspections and laws and their shop touching an aftermarket converter, getting pulled over for being too loud, blah blah blah. All of which are unfounded concerns with no application in practice in the US. When you mentioned EPA that’s a typical sign of hesitancy (maybe a more accurate word than fear?) that keeps people from pursuing other options, etc. But it matters not in the end for your current decision - Now back to choosing which converter....

You can cross check the part numbers to amazon and other sites with reviews, google, and see if there are reviews there. These usually aren’t replaced and reviewed with enough volume to see more than anecdotal statistically limited data. You’ll get a hit or four and that’s about it. Look for those handful of reports on your same vehicle and make a best case judgement. I wouldn’t expect as much determinant feedback as say repairing the suspension, trans, engine, etc most after markets I’ve seen all rust quicker than OEM and have lower grade catalyst so they don’t last as long - tripping CELs in less than a year...usually on newer vehicles but I doubt older models use more expensive catalysts they just don’t have a P0420 in the software.

yes this. I was speaking about the body side of the mounts and have a real bad incomplete answer. match whatever transmission will be in the vehicle. Theres a few variables between 00-01: 99/00 generation crossover, H6 is introduced, and Impreza/Outback differences, and maybe Phase I and II trans depending where you’re looking.

In addition to the pump - Maybe the fuel pressure regulator as well. Doesn’t it have a vacuum hose - pull the hose and see if it’s wet inside. I think SPFI and MPFI pumps are interchangeable if not identical. Like 30+ psi. The carbbed engine pumps are much lower fuel pressure. Ive gone through 3-4 EA used pumps trying to get a good one. They don’t seem to be aging well when unused, so if it sat for any period of time...and maybe even if it didn’t, it’s suspect.

You can't swap the engine without disabling most of the rest of the functionality of the vehicle. 2005+ Subaru's are CANBUS and you'll loose most controllers on the network...basically any major controller in the vehicle. if you're okay loosing all of that - then have at it, I've been tempted to try....

you really don't want to get into splitting Subaru blocks, there's a significant chance of it not going well. if you did it's pointless to replace pistons and rods in an NA Subaru engine. i'd get another engine or consider moving on. if there's any rust this is probably a great chance to move on. the time (DIY) or expense (pay a shop) on a job that big doesn't warrant limping a rusted vehicle along. JDM Subaru engines are usually more around the $1k mark, not $2,500. I didn't look hard so I don't know if this fits your vehicle but it's close: https://www.ebay.com/itm/00-05-SUBARU-FORESTER-2-5L-SOHC-4-CYLINDER-ENGINE-JDM-EJ253/362608213577?epid=570730528&hash=item546d223e49:g:7Z0AAOSw9r1WAFlI you can find wrecked subaru's for sale locally - craigslist, facebook market place, etc, very reasonably priced sometimes - and have a good engine/trans to swap in. you can even pull the engine and trans still bolted together. i've done it a few times - it's great. pull the whole lump out, install the new one.

Are you sure it's rod knock? Piston slap and other benign, or lesser, things have caused people to think an engine has rod knock when it does not. With the trans trashed I'm not sure it really matters. 95-96 with 2.2 engine is the bullet proof vehicle. do a complete timing job and you'll have a really boring repair list over 100,000 miles. 00-04 Outback is a nice robust, predictable platform. they still have some headgasket issues but if properly addressed they're good for 100k and are otherwise the most robust 2000+ Subaru. If you need newer, get the newest Subaru with 4EAT transmission (I'm not sure when they quit being offered or in what models) or a 2017+.

where are you getting your information from? I'd guess there's just an auto trans and manual trans mount. All 2000 auto transmissions are interchangeable so there can't be two different, incompatible mounts for them.

yes that short block will work. EGR doesn't matter because you'll be installing your Ej22 heads and intake onto the EJ25 block. being "resealed" almost doesn't do you any goods because all the gaskets and seals that are replaced will be removed for the frankenmotor build. cam seals, valve cover gaskets, head gaskets. you gain nothing by getting a resealed engine, except a crank seal and resealed oil pump - both very easy and pocket change to replace anyway. i have a 1998 EJ25 block only, if you're just looking for a frankenmotor, but distance probably negates that.

If you're fearful enough to ask the question then you probably need the converter. But the reality is whatever the law says, it's benign. That's like saying "isn't it illegal to drive 1 mph over the speed limit?" What is law and what happens in practice are two different realities. In practice they are replaced and removed *all* *the* *time*. I guarantee I drove past dozens of cars/trucks today with "illegal" exhausts.

No - your mechanics and choices are money pits. I’m not going to line item analyze that history but there’s clearly poor shops and decisions being made. Change your mechanic, personal involvement or get a car with a factory warranty will mitigate poor mechanics.

Ideally find out if it’s consuming oil and if the CVT is sharp or if the engine/trans ever had any work. That’s often hard to do though. Those will be more important than mileage. That’s 60k/year so obviously highway mileage which isn’t too scary if it never ran low on oil. There’s a 2014 Forester with 260k in my parking lot right now. I bought it for parts, wrecked in the rear. It starts and drives in the lot just fine.

Yep that’s a common Subaru PCV location.

Yeah you can EJ25 it. It’s a fine project if you can find a reasonble condition EJ25 block. They’re usually just a short block for a reason and their history????? they aren’t a good fit in an already existing EJ25 vehicle (compression bump is offset by poor flow), or for forced induction, and other applications that some people try. but if you have good sourcing options for a block that isn’t trash nor suspect or risky they’re a fine option for bumping older gen EJ18 or EJ22 hp a notch.

City stop and go is terrible for gas mileage. It’ll be low and possibly inconsistent. 20 is fairly average for these and FWD doesn’t get waaay more than AWD outside of very specific conditions. With long 100% highway trips they can get into the 26-28 mph range in perfect conditions. but conditions need to be ripe. That’s all highway and not doing 80. The 6 cylinder mileage drops quickly with any idling, city, mountains, etc a 6 will respond quicker and drop quicker than a 4 with city, mountain Winter, idling, etc if you want to pay attention to gas mileage it’s best to do it on a long consistent trip. If you have a somewhat regular vacation/hobby/family/work trip, with relatively consistent driving speeds and few stops, use that as your gas mileage base line. also what is “using the trip meter? Are you actually dividing total miles by gallons when you fill up ? If not, then there are probably estimating errors. its also winter - car idling while de-icing or brushing snow or ice or letting it warm up or defrost will kill gas mileage too. Gas engines are highly inefficient at idle.

Yep. But if your valve covers are leaking just do those first and see where you land. That might finish off the leaks.

New timing gear (belts and pulleys) and maybe a spare alternator in the trunk. I had a 120 mile commute 3.5 days a week (3 one week, 4 the next) I did with XT6s for years. Same pistons and valves as yours just two more cylinders.

Awesome, I see what you meant now. Good work. A 10mm ratcheting wrench does wonders on lower rear Subaru valve cover bolts if you’ve never done them before. They can be a slippery, hard to reach, 4 degrees per turn mess with just a wrench and not enough clearance for a socket. It can totally...eventually...be done with a regular wrench though and 4 cyl is easier than 6.

Good eye - there are grommets under each valve cover bolt head. Maybe that's what you meant, but the grommet needs replaced, not the bolt. These right here: https://www.subaruparts.com/oem-parts/subaru-engine-valve-cover-grommet-13271aa051

the separator should be metal on those early years if it's stock. that doesn't mean it still can't leak from the sealant between the plate and block, but it at least won't crack like the goofy plastic ones. PCV valve and identifying and repairing known leaks is always the first step to oil leaks/loss. Sounds like you already have the idea that the valve cover gaskets are bad - those things leak all the time, by far the most common leak point of an older Subaru. That's probably your issue if you already suspected it and are loosing a lot of oil.

Is there any chance the valve covers are leaking? If those other seals were leaking then the valve cover gaskets most definitely are, have been, or were already replaced. They leak all the time with age. They leak at the very back lower corner just above the crossmember and blow back from there as you're driving. Which then migrates down towards the same area you'd see the leaks you're describing. If it's coming from between the engine and trans then it's likely to be the rear separator plate rather than the main seal. Make sure it has a metal separator plate and seal it. If it's consuming oil - that's not a big deal, just keep it topped off and hope the PCV valve helps. Also the hoses around the PCV are likely to be brittle and fail while you're removing it. Might want to have those on hand. Generic hose is hard to make those bends in tight places and tends to collapse but can be used in a pinch.