idosubaru

You mentioned earlier it's "sucking" oil which implies it's using it but not leaking. Now you're saying it is leaking. Leaking = leaking externally and visibly under the vehicle. Internal oil consumption and external oil leaks are two completely different issues with different causes and fixes. Clear that up and you'll get better guidance. Additives and oil brand are highly unlikely to do anything. I'm not saying don't try it. It's so easy, why not? Go ahead and try it - but don't worry or think you did something wrong, or try it 5 times, if it doesn't help. From what I've seen - those with positive reviews from additives or oil, also pay very close attention to their vehicles, are prone to regimented maintenance, repairing oil leaks, and buy and maintain vehicles such that they aren't likely to leak badly anyway. It's not like they're someone who has bought 10 oil hemorrhaging Subaru's and fixed them all with just oil and additives. That's not what's happening. The people buying 10+ oil leakers have a much different view. Or they have a small sample size. Or people start addressing an issue and do multiple things at once and mis-attribute what lessened the leak. Kind of what you're doing here - you're focusing on multiple repairs at once and seem likely to do a couple things at the same time - I see this *all the time*. So someone replaces the PCV, valve cover gasket, and changes oil type/additive - and sees oil loss lessen. They then go swear by the additive. Or they change oil brand and think it's better...when really it was just because of lower RPM driving because the driver didn't travel recently and the car consumers predominantly at high RPM's. But they don't know that - they just see an oil change and less oil use - yea! All that to say - additives and Lucas get a much higher verbal acclaim than their efficacy warrants. Again - I'm not discounting it totally - just know what you're dealing with and don't fret or think you did it wrong if it doesn't work. Because it probably won't. Mitigating oil loss on dozens of oil leaking Subaru's over a long period of time...that simply is not happening. There would be a couple shops out there running with this and they'd have high demand in subaru rich areas.

No. Outback rear hubs changed drastically 2000+, Forester stays the same as 90's stuff through like 2006 or something.

Replace the PCV valve, use Subaru OEM.

that’s great! That’s crazy y’all figured out a custom wiring issue. Nuts. EJs loose oil past the oil control piston rings. There really isn’t any other way those consistently loose oil internally. You can check valve stem seals but that’s almost beyond unlikely for that engine.

That’s amazing. Well done man!

That’s awesome. I’ve never seen MAP sensor failure so I have no idea. They seem rare, I’d install a used OEM one. Glad you knocked it out. Thanks heaps for posting back. My Tribeca is running poorly with no codes - it’s drivable but slow pedal response and lack of power and poor gas mileage. Hate to guess but I might look into the MAP since it’s so easy.

stout metal screw driver/or similar in the rotor vent so it then catches on the caliper bracket or ground. bar or pipe through the studs laying across the face of the hub and rotate until the pipe/bar hits the ground. Protect the studs or chase with a die when you’re done. Then loosen. If it doesn’t budge, yank the axle out of the trans and deal with it at home. Or if you’re real bored wrestle then axle apart so just the outer cv is still stuck in the hub.

A southern EJ22 swapped 1998 Forester or 96-99 Outback is the best for reliability and ease of maintenance. Buy one of those from the south and you won’t learn much because there won’t be much to do to it. That engine and 4EAT trans will run forever. 00-04 Outback and 99-04 Forester are a close second. They have head gasket issues that can be mitigated by a DIY mechanical person and have a perfectly reliable 100k with that same bullet proof 4EAT as the 90’s stuff. Those head gasket issues make them really easy to pick up cheap. Proper repair and you’re good for a reliable 100k. 05+ is when degradations start but many are small and mostly annoyances. Drivetrain and stranding items like engine/trans is largely the same as 00-04. Same thing - get one cheap leaking oil and repair it properly for a reliable 100k. This is also when the annoying CANBUS system. Not a big deal but can’t do engine swaps any more. 05-09 outback (forester years and shifted slightly but are less common so I’m less familiar) is basically the same on overall drivetrain like engine and trans. Same head gasket points, can still get the 4EAT This range Forester or Outback with EJ25 and 4EAT is probably your best bet for newer and predictable issues and maintenance. Right around 2010+ starts to drift into CVTs, early FB engines with ring issues and oil consumption. I would avoid those. I usually recommend favoring 00-09 or getting as new as you can 2017+ to avoid 2011-2016 first iteration CVT and FB engines in Forester and Outback. But if you’re buying a low cost car needing work then sometimes that all goes out the window for a good deal. Its not like they’re all blowing up - I just picked up a 2011 Forester for parts with 260,000 miles and it runs perfectly fine. Some of us here see too many Subaru’s and have the wherewithal to be picky. I get mine from the south or west to avoid rust....but I can’t expect family and friends I help to do the same.

Radio or clock is your issue. If the drain is inconsistent for some reason, testing may not be fool proof. How sure are you that the drain is always existent? 1. Disconnect those and anything else on that circuit, except the ECU, and check for drain. What do you get? 2. Disconnect everything including the ECU on that fuse circuit - what do you get? Being custom wiring I’m wondering if there’s something on there that you don’t know about. Maybe the ECU power wire is shared with something else you’re not aware of?

Great then, any 95-99 outback or legacy with ABS is the same part and interchangeable. That gun will probably work in most areas and most vehicles. If you’re in a rust prone area I’d be taking my 3/4” socket and long pipe. I’ve had some that a 1,000 ft-lb air gun didn’t get off. Something like only 1 out of 30 or 50 are that bad around here, so you’re not likely to see that. But if you are in an area with few subarus - that’s the only one at the yard, there’s bad rust, the yard is a long drive away, and need that bearing to get to work tomorrow - take more than a rechargeable. Otherwise you’ll probably be fine.

I lean on GD for block recommendations and experience. He does this stuff all the time and has described in detail in other posts about why. Look those comments up if you need more background and fact checking. It’s enlightening and data and experience driven. Im a member of a lot of Subaru forums since the 1990s, I know exactly what you mean! Blocks are tough and I don’t think advice given is purposely misguided. There’s just not much volume to go on. Few people are doing any volume of blocks over a long enough time to make more than anecdotal assumptions, there’s no good data. And almost no one has the volume or time to do it multiple ways and compare data. GD is about as close as you can get to that anywhere online when it comes to Subaru blocks.

1984 and earlier subarus are all EA81 and EA71 1985 and up only hatches and brats have EA81 1985 and up EA82 turbo and non turbo axle stuff you can ignore, those aren’t EA81 axles.

Legacy and Outback are the same - the only differences in 96 are ABS. The knuckles are the same, the ABS models just have a hole for the ABS sensor. You can install ABS hubs on non ABS hub without issues, the ABs sensor just wont be used. I’d leave it there and cut the wire to have the hole plugged up. I would guess the Outback has ABS and the legacy might not. So you’re fine to swap if that’s the case. you can swap non ABS hubs into ABS vehicles and retain the ABS functionality. You can if you dont care about the ABS not working. If for some reason your legacy has ABS, the Outback doesn’t, and you want the ABS to work - then you can’t. But I highly doubt that’s the case.

No. Do not hone a Subaru block, don’t split it or touch it. New rings on old pistons all day long. Zero issue for Subarus.

Very common on any plastic radiator. Highly unlikely for aftermarket to be made of as high quality plastics, but I haven't seen any failures of them yet and have installed a couple dozen.

Awesome - KYB's are the way to go. I'd install 00-04 KYB's. Fairly common to install those in 05-09's. The 05-09's have noticeably less longevity and some people say they perform worse. My road conditions are too bad and varying to notice performance differences, but 05-09's longevity is so bad that you might as well just assume they're bad when you come across an outback or legacy of that generation. None of the other years are like that - just 05-09's for some reason. Since they're aftermarket, I'm not sure how much different 00-04 and 05-09 KYB's are - but the OEM are bad enough that I avoid 05-09's. Scott is a long time member here and in the PNW subaru community. I get my lift parts from him: https://www.sjrlift.com/

Sure thing. A 2009 For isn't much different than prior models mechanically. Engine, drivetrain, trans, brakes, suspension bolt on to other prior models with minor mechanical/relaibility differences. I'd look up whether or not that has electronic parking brake - those are annoying if the battery dies for any reason and you need to get it out of park. There were so many changes 5EAT, drive by wire, electronic parking brake, curtain bags, eyesight, knee bags...I don't have a good grasp on which models/trims have which. The parking brake is one that could be good to know about now though.

If you have measurable symptoms You can swap injectors as an easy test and see if the symptoms move with the injector. If you swap injectors 2 and 4 and the issues go from #4 to #2 then you know the injector is the culprit. Of course this only works if you have predictable symptoms or something measurable. Like pulling the injector plug trick you used early on.

I doubt this but is there any chance of it over cooling and causing the thermostat to reduce coolant cycling and make it stagnate in the turbo? Or will it all flow so quickly that the entire system normalizes equitably fairly quickly?

I hear you I have a looong list

Yeah it’s tough. Chances of failure are low. But you’re looking at more bent valves again if it does. As a less time intensive check pull the front timing cover, nothing else, and check the lower sprocket with a Mechanics stethoscope with the engine running. That’s about the only thing with a reasonable chance of failing. That wouldn’t take long at all. If you don’t have the covers on it would take 1 minute.

It’s always very close to the throttle body, on those I think it’s attached right on top drivers side of the throttle body. Small plunger, two bolts. There’s a couple varieties over the years, I could be confused. Cleaning sometimes works but if you’re uncertain and have a parts car with usable part that’s an easier “test”. If you replaced parts with no change in symptoms then that basically rules out any of those parts even if, for example, an aftermarket knock sensor isn’t ideal or as good as OEM. I’ve installed 5-10 aftermarket knock sensors with no issues.

Sounds like you’re already set on not doing it. Just take your chances, they’re in your favor. But I mean the belt and one pulley can be done in 45 minutes But It’s best to check - those are interference year engines, so you could end up with another big project instead of easy regular maintenance. the aftermarket kits aren’t as good as OEM. The belt and lower cogged idler are the only main issues. Install a Subaru belt and Subaru Lower idler (only $35 or cheaper) next time. They can be done in an hour. Very easy on EJ22s.

That’s awesome ! I can relate - why did you come here and make me feel bad on Christmas. Lol keep it up! One project has to be the first one you finish, do it!

Standard fluid remarks ATF, brake fluid, and EJ25 stuff: Headgaskets. That year can get External oil leaks that slowly get worse over many thousands of miles. Nothing you can do preventatively but there’s no immediate worry and they won’t strand you so it’s benign. Takes a long time to slowly get worse. Timing components - notice I said components. They all need replaced, they’re 12 years old now. Belt pulleys tensioner and water pump ideally. Bare minimum it needs a Subaru belt and lower cogged pulley. That’s the one part that frequently fails more than all the others combined. 05-09 legacy power steering pumps suck, I mean they just don’t last as long as most subaru models. They’re fine when new. If 09 Forester is similar do not buy aftermarket units. Get used, new oem or see if there’s a rebuild kit (not available for legacy).