idosubaru

Dealer doesn't rebuild these and you don't want a trans shop to do it. Have you tried changing the fluid and making sure the transmission pan isn't dented and starving the pump for fluid? You could also see if your symptoms mirror valve body issues which happens sometimes. If that's the case - you could attempt (or have a shop attempt) a valve body replacement instead of full trans swap. Finding a list of interchangeable transmissions is usually not possible unless you're lucky. It's not as simple as it used to be. And also they don't fail, and aren't replaced, often enough that we have massive databases for the variety of year/make/models. For the matching final drive ratio, and other reasons, you'll almost certainly be limited to non-turbo OBW's from 2005-2009, and VDC at that. I'm not familiar with any technicalities of 2010-2013 models. The best source is: 1. Go to an online subaru parts retailer and look up the transmission for your year/make/model 2. click on the "Other Vehicles" tab and it'll show you all the years and models that transmission is used in. Then search for that transmission. And also plug in your vehicle at www.car-part.com Some of the JDM suppliers may be able to help you as well, and they're prices are good, though that has it's own level of confusion, but people have installed JDM transmissions in VDC north american Outbacks. There is usually a far wider range of vehicles the transmission is compatible with than is listed by Subaru, which is what you're getting at. But it's not usually easy to figure out in these later model vehicles.

no kidding, 4 runner too?! yeah they're not pristine for visibility. do you know why they last so long? lower temps and "controlled" conditions being sealed in glass?

20 years of XT6 - I haven't replaced any bulbs...maybe I'm forgetting one. 10 years of EJ/EZ - replaced countless bulbs in 2002+ daily drivers. 2002 OBW needed both bulbs about yearly, was keeping them in glove box, and then went 5 years without needing bulbs. The only changes I can think of were the state smoothing out the local roads (we have some nasty roads), or a new OEM alternator (the old one wasn't bad at all, worked perfectly fine), or it was just random.

Yeah man good luck. Probably a minor imperfection. i repaired one water pump mating surface hacked up from drilling and work on seized/sheared bolt removals. A good bit of metal missing and all cratered up like the moon.

I wonder if the mating surface for EJ pumps is wider than old gen. Yes Aisin is known to supply OEM pumps and gaskets. I’ve compensated for blocks 10X worse than yours. Coating the gasket does just that. There’s no reason not to coat a gasket since it’s a rather standard practice, but a bead of RTV would surely hold. I’m not sure why Subaru has never spec sealant for cooling components. The pump will sit the gasket thickness closer to the engine, I doubt that matters. My guess is the risk of using more, less forgiving smearing during install, getting it into the cooling system. With oil they use anaerobic at the factory, but in practice careful use of RTV is common.

Meir, What are you trying to do? Are you changing engines or repairing something? What’s wrong with the engine? Is it diesel or gas? You have a a lot of options for replacing the engine, all of these are done on gas engines in the US: 1. replace the short block only and bolt your original heads and intake to it. This is the best option. In the US we can buy just the short block from Subaru. They’re not much more than used engines and have a 36,000 mile 3 year warranty. 2. get a single EGR engine and bolt ONE head from your old engine on it (the one with the second EGR) and reuse your original intake 3. get another engine and drill and tap the head to accept the second EGR valve. Bolt your original EGR valve to it and use the original intake manifold. Also In the US we install non EGR engines into EGR Subaru’s and they run just fine. Yours should run fine with one EGR. This results in a check engine light - but that’s easy to work around too. If you need no check engine lights, reroute the EGR vacuum line to make the ECU happy. That’s at least 4 different options, your mechanic should be able to figure it out if and untrained person like me can do it.

man I’d love to hear more about that!?!? Weather, elk, bear, salmon, utilities, roads and snow removal....! Very cool.

what fel pro part number? Id be curious what they supply for the uncommon Phase II EJ22 If you bought the car recently like this then you have to wonder how badly it was abused prior. Roll dice, assess things... If you’ve owned and driven it a long time trouble free before this then it was probably a glitch during install. 1. Resurface the heads yourself and clean them. It’s so easy, compared to DIY head gasket replacement it’s a drop in the bucket. ”testing them” is a complete waste of time on Subaru’s. They always test fine but you’ll see high and low spots every time if you watch during resurfacing. I don’t want high and low spots on a engine that has head gasket issues from a new factory clean seal job 2. Calibrate or somehow verify your torque wrench and your torque procedures. Ignore Fel Pro recommendations and clean and reuse your original Subaru head bolts if you have them. Use Subaru torque procedure and bolts, even the used ones 3. clean the block - do not use sand paper or wire wheel. 4. clean and lubricate the bolt holes and bolt threads so proper torque leads to design clamping loads. On EJ25s the gasket installed today is not what was originally installed. I favor Subaru, many others do as well, but Fel Pro is used extensively by some shops and I’ve installed a couple without issues. But totally ignore their asinine head bolt comments. Those are EJ25 part numbers, he’s got an EJ22.

Yep, dry usually works, 2 in 10 might not. I've used that stuff only a couple times over many EA/ER engines. Aftermarket gaskets are thin as frog hair and suck. You're right, I've used them with a coating and they will work but avoid them most of the time.

I've had this happen before. 1. smooth the mating surface with fine grit sand paper. check the water pump too just in case it got knicked. If you think you got it smooth, addressed the problem area then reinstall dry. 2. if that doesn't work or you're uncertain, I use permatex water pump sealant on both sides of the gasket. Just follow the directions - it can be used alone or with a gasket. Or just skip trying a dry gasket if you don't want to go back in there again.

That's actually not surprising. Current Subaru's in my driveway have 265k, 233k, 210k, and 135k and all of them I'd take on highway trips and routinely see hundreds of thousands of miles of trips. Rust or multiple owners/poor maintenance usually does them in, not the actual mechanicals. Usually takes some maintenance to get there, particularly to do it reliably or without feeling like something is always needing work. brakes, struts, CV boots, gaskets, seals, timing belt, hoses. A non-car person often just drives until those things pile up, a DIY or car person will track and do them in time and/or preventatively. A little effort keeps you in a 200k vehicle reliably. Subaru hobbyists or DIY can usually manage all of that stuff on pocket change and preventatively, but many people just change oil and hope for the best while those things become nagging. I've given or helped people get dozens of Subarus. The vast majority are just looking for A to B cars and literally think about nothing but gas and oil changes. By the time they're ready to get rid of the car it's often got a lot of needs. So yes - 250k would be surprising for someone just driving it on oil changes and no preventative thoughts at all. But for a little bit more than "change the oil and i'm good" mentality, it's not that hard. But really high mileage and "running it into the ground", is just one way of thinking about it. If I buy at 120k and sell at 300k, it isn't advantageous financially or for my time/effort. If I buy low at 120k and sell high at 175k I can almost break even. i end up doing a little of both - keep a high mileage one or two in the fleet for specific purposes (7 seater, winter, towing, work), and rotate some others. Just depends what you're after and what your time/skill sets are.

John, I can print and mail it or post/send the images to you. We live in the mountains with no internet/no cable/no TV options (which is totally fine by me!) so I totally understand having hard copies verses digital.

What they said. If you want it get it. There’s nothing practical to think about besides what GD mentioned.

Does the dual have additional hangers and body side heat shield and does yours have those?

Or accept that manuals (for subarus anyway) are likely to need more maintenance and repairs like you’re describing and keep rolling. I don’t always avoid manuals and don’t steer people from them as a rule - but I think it’s helpful to at least be clear and make an informed decision about facts. It’s common for people to think manuals are cheaper, lower maintenance, more reliable, have better torque, or are better for towing - which is all a big load of archaic hippo shat for Subarus. I drive XT6s as daily drivers - I can do it relatively inexpensively and reliably but I’m not kidding myself thinking they’re “better” than thousands of other options. I just know them well enough to accept it and circumvent some downsides. Same with manuals. Im speaking for Subarus - I have no idea if other manufacturers are similar or not.

Do whatever you want! I get that yours won’t see snow probably. But Id get whichever exhaust is less rust prone. All else being equal the single will have fewer welds and flanges and hangers to rust. Some mods are incredibly practical like seats orlights or lifting or racing. It’s a cool relic, particularly for the NE, and they’re simple and reliable. Keeping it stock has strong merit. Modding is fine sometimes and who doesn’t like to tinker sometimes. what I’ve felt with my XT6s is that the modding “feeling” is way more in the planning and installing phase and basically zero afterwards. I like larger tires and a little lift and that’s about it for practical reasons. A good solid older machine is stand alone cool in stock form. As an extreme example, an amazing condition stock brat shines over a great condition highly modified one unless you’re in some particular crowd like the civic communities predisposed to highly modified civics.

More than likely we're looking at headgasket failure - but we'd be better off with specific details and larger context.

1. The most important question is are you 100% absolutely certain that the cooling issues never changed *at all* after those repairs? The issues you have now are identical to the issues you had before any work was done? 2. Did you ever own the car when it wasn’t doing this, or did you buy it this way? New radiator or used? Fans? Check the AC condenser in front of the radiator for clogged fins or egregiously bent fins. It may not be getting any airflow. 3. What brand headgaskets were used? 4. Were the heads resurfaced and bolts properly torqued? preferably, answer all of the questions above, they work better together not individually.

I have never had to spend time with these (other than the 1996 specific issue with readiness monitors), so these are more generic than specific. 1. first question is are you absolutely positive this car drove thousands of miles for years before the cat replacement with no inspection issues? Was this car bought with issues and repaired or had a known history of passing inspections and then failed? 2. Are you positive all components are original? Back to your specific questions How many readiness monitors are unready? exactly what are you seeing? N/A may indicate unpopulated fields reserved for turbo cars or something like that, rather than unset I think you’re allowed an unset readiness monitor or two and maybe 100% don’t always set concurrently. so that’s why I ask how many are ready, not ready, and NA? Is there any chance your reader isn’t displaying accurately or is showing NA as not ready?

Subarus aren’t like the trucks you mentioned, the fuse boxes aren’t part of any feedback loop. but the LED comment above might warrant looking into.

wait y’all get dual range trans right ? That’s just not fair! Maybe if we had those....!! Lol. Not bad is true - if you could buy a brand new one and change the fluids yourself they’d be more tolerable. But here we are talking about old used transmissions with unknown history that are increasingly hard to find and prices are sometimes high because of it. And they are worse across large sample sizes. In US Subaru’s there will be more manual failures than autos per capita. Across a sample size that large all variables will be averaged out and manuals are worse. I’d guess it’s multiple owners, infrequent fluid changes, high average mileage and temp and elevation extremes. We drive 1,000 miles here. I have no idea how many 1,000 mile trips I’ve done. US averages twice the annual miles of NZ. We also have 120 degree deserts, -50 degree winters and frequent mountain traverses where Subaru’s are common. I think all of those combined make the US a prime place to reveal the less forgiving nature of mechanical components. so I agree in principle, and with a new one. but applied to the US and the used older market, like a guy swapping a quarter century old trans, there’s a significant difference. and theres still the pain of hitching up trailers and clutch replacement which is a colossal waste of time and money.

I’m not sure what you did with timing cover bolts. Its been awhile but I order new high grade bolts with normal bolt heads. Here’s my list of quantity and measurements: im assuming “6” means M6x1.00 thread, a common Subaru size. The first number is the quantity “22A” - so there’s 22 of that size. I think the FSM might have some bolt info which is where I got the letters from. I’m unsure what the last (B?) means: 22 A 6x45 13 B 6x16 21 C 6x30 1 D 6x50 2 ? (B?)

Good job confirming the leak. That’s great. I hate doing a big job and not seeing a clear sign of failure like I thought I would. Smart to replace the water pump with oem while you’re in there. I’d guess you or the dealer saw the water pump had a couple of orings associated with it? I always replace those too. You got that 2 miles of sealant ready to run a bead? The Right Stuff is a nice product for the covers.

What he said 10x more work. Then you end up with more maintenance (clutch cable/fluid), less reliable, synchro issues, input shaft bearing failures, less forgiving torque bind failures, harder to find, harder to hook up a trailer, can’t manually control the 4WD like you can with auto, and harder to drink your coffee. Unless you like to run your battery dead Often and need pop the clutch or need to wiggle a 3” stick while driving for fun they have no advantages and lots of downsides. This isn’t the 1970s, notions of manuals having advantages are archaic now.

84 GL nice! Wagon or hatch? It will definitely help the sale for sure and your market is HUGE up there. You live relatively close to like 25% of the entire population of the US. Like I said give it time and set a price and bump is down after 2-4 weeks if no bites. Sell by March/April for top dollar. Probably does have rust preventative improvements. What years did you get rid of the 84 and 90? vehicle use/exposure, garage or no garage, heated garage, previous owners usage...lots of variables can impact rust. I’ve seen plenty of 05s rusted so they’re not immune.