idosubaru

Those codes clear themselves once the issue is rectified. The controllers are simply monitoring real time electrical signals - they are in range or not. Once they’re back in range the code immediately goes away. It’s like your light switch and would be nearly as instantaneous. That’s a little oversimplified, but for the purposes of your question it’s the case. Those markings are jaw prints. The question is was there rodent damage and then subsequent markings as well? If so, the markings aren’t that telling I routinely break parts that were already damaged because they’re damaged - often it doesn’t matter if I damage them more. I don’t carefully remove bad wheel bearings so as not to make them “more bad” - they’re going to scrap. Okay I’m sort of joking here but I’m just unsure on sequence of events and details. It’s nearly impossible to confuse rodent damage with pulling a wire out of socket. Pulling apart results in stretch and fatigue in the copper strands, wire sheathing, and associated conduit and it pulls apart in a very distinctive way. Rodents wouldnt. Pulling it will not create nearly the same type of stretch, gnawing, pieces, material breaking and random fracturing as chewing does. We weren’t there to see it all insitu but it’s nearly impossible to confuse the two by anyone who’s seen both. By your description it sounds like there was potentially some heated discussion - any time attitudes are flying I’m not surprised to see poorer outcomes, miscommunication, or missing data. Keep in mind the service advisors often don’t even look at your car nor have never worked on one before. So you’re getting third hand information that may be practically truthful but relayed with errors. That’s the case in a very smooth and highly cooperative situation but compounded in a more heightened one.

The fact that you thought to check for rodent damage is interesting - very few people check for rodent damage as a nearly first step like you mentioned. That seems to suggest it’s likely or there’s reasons to suspect it. Are there any food crumbs or items in the car - are kids or pets ever around? That’ll attract rodents. That’s hard to tell. Rodent damage isn’t surprising, it happens. I’d think it’s going to be hard to say with the limited info here. I’ve repaired a few rodent damaged vehicles. None were major, all were limited to one harness. But I’m sure they could go nuts. If there was that much damage it shouldn’t be too hard to find animal excrement in the engine bay. I’ve seen it TONS of times laying on top the engine, below the battery tray, anywhere. Usually on perfectly running vehicles. I’ve seen this dozens of times, it’s very common. If they were in there any length of time there should be signs.

Yeah it’s not worth it to swap to manual except for novelty or learning. Get a manual. Get one with a blown EJ25 and swap it to EJ22. Expands your search options and EJ25s usually come in better trimmed vehicles like outbacks, etc. so you’ll get better trim and options and an outback which are all EJ25 after 1996. the 96 is the only EJ22 outback, and it was only the manual trans that year that got the EJ22. They’re old enough and cheap enough just get one that’s a manual. Around here manuals are dirt cheap, no one wants one and autos are 10x better in every way except your head. Find an EJ25 with blown headgasket and manual trans for cheap and EJ22 swap it. but yeah it can be swapped. Trans pedal assembly driveshaft rear diff center console, cruise control box if you want that to work, clutch cables flywheel clutch. And wire in the reverse lights to work.

That seems like a good deal for Colorado. The link is expired so i cant see condition - but leaking headgaskets and the northeast put downward pressure on older cars. Even rust free cars suffer depreciation from the latent pressure rust puts on the overall market. Older cars are just assumed to be more of a liability here than out west/south. Circumstances sometimes buck that trend...like a Baja, Turbo OB or low miles, so you never know, it could get more.

EJ22 swap all day long and send that thing packing. if you knew how badly it's been overheated it's workable to fix them. resurface the heads (very easy to do yourself, like super simple, look the thread up on here - post apocalyptic head resurface or whatever is the title), use Subaru MLS gaskets and properly torque it and lube the head bolt threads, clean the bolts (reuse them and ignore everyone who says otherwise). if you do all that you're golden....but who knows how badly they've been overheated in the past? EJ22 is the best engine subaru ever made - find one and they're a plug and play swap. awesome engines, super preditable, reliable, and easy to maintain with no headgasket or major issues.

What question do you have about the crank? I looked back but didn't see it. Yeah the golden links are hard to see with age and oil staining. I sent 2006 and 2012 H6 FSM links and timing pages.

It's not letting me load any more pages....I'll PM you a link to the files John.

Timing Chain Assembly2.pdf

Sub $3k subaru's can be tough. Prepare for a zillion low ballers. Just plan to ignore them and not even read or talk to those people. "First $XYZ get's it, otherwise don't contact me" and stick to it. You can do it without being mean! The low value and headgaskets are going to make lowballers slober and DROOOOOL all over themselves. It can be miserable selling Subarus for under $3k, the clientele can just not very nice to work with. Be clear and stick to it. I generally set a price - and ignore offers/questions. If it doesn't sell in a month - drop it a few hundred - wash rinse repeat and make sure you sell it by march. I'd guess $2,000-$2,300. A running driving 4WD in northeast snow country that isn't rotted to debris with rust usually grabs $2,000 very easily. You don't say how many miles a week is for you, but that could be like 5 quarts every thousand miles - that's pretty bad. If you disclose that - you'll be waiting to sell it to someone who just needs a temporary car or drives very few miles like a college student, etc. And you could possibly get in the $2,500 or a little more for it. Now through march is prime time to sell and quite a few markets are higher than normal due to 2020 issues.

Beast. Those make for good stories and learning experiences. If I did this it would be the same - an extra car for me and no one else.

Beast. Those make for good stories and learning experiences. If I did this it would be the same - an extra car for me and no one else.

I can post to USMB in about an hour and a half.

I can’t find your email address, send it to me so I can send you timing stuff.

Nice! I’ve always wanted to try that! Thanks for the feedback. You “buffed” the rod and replaced the rod bearing without splitting the block?

Will you be in Ohio for thanksgiving or Christmas? I’ll help you reseal the front cover. I’ll wear a mask and insulated clothes and we can throw it together in your barn.

You’re good to go John. I’ve done those years. The electronics don’t care about removing and installing the same type engine. Its only installing different engines that cant be done. Like Huck’s EZ30 into an XT6, that’s no longer possible starting in 2005+. You can swap the long block and retain original existing intake manifold if there are any small differences of the intake hose, vacuum or brackets, etc. I’ve seen how your cars are kept, I’d want to keep that engine! I’m sure you took care of it, and that’s a good motor. It is a lot of parts but it’s not hard to do the rear cover. The only tricky part is running the long bead of sealant, placing the orings, and setting the cover in place without disturbing the bead and orings. A helper would be useful but I’ve only done it myself, so it’s totally doable. Ive got one of those engines and a new set of headgaskets to put on it but it had blown gaskets when I got the car so I wouldn’t want to send it your way. But I might have some extra parts if you need any.

Awesome. teaching moments FTW. Maybe she could do that research you’re suggesting and document with pics to put in the glove compartment for future owner/sale.

Is she trying to file a diminished value claim or needs to sell it? If the concern is resale and it’s just a minor ding, I would take before and after pictures. Be up front, show that to perspective buyers later, and there’s no valuation difference. It doesn’t matter. X% of potential buyers will pass. That percent increases the worse the damage is and the newer it is. If it’s minor, the car should readily sell for full value. Only a small percent of potential buyers will care about a minor door ding with no additional damage to the overall vehicle if another hatch is installed. Ive sold a number of totaled, dented, and wrecked Subaru’s. That’s often what I buy to fix and drive a few years.

They’re 8, 10, or 12 mm. The fender rail bolts (pop the hood and look) or the ones between the door opening when the door is open, and radiator fan bolts are 10mm. If they’re the same size they’re 10mm. If they’re smaller they’re 8mm. if they’re bigger they are 12. Ive got a charcoal gray 2014 parts car but it’s at my office not home so I can’t look. PM me if you want to buy a mirror.

Excellent question.

yeah mine is dented. I also think mine is the dark charcoal gray, not the black. I think there’s a difference. Maybe she can tolerate waiting a couple years until the prices come down?

I think my hatch has a dent or I would have offered the whole thing. I’ll check when I get to my office. It does work properly so if you needed any support rods, body side latch, lenses, trim, wiper parts I could send you those.

Okay. I see. You were thinking 05s might bump it up a little, which you wanted. You didn’t say that specifically at first so I think we were confused. 05+ work they just don’t last very long and are not any better performers either. I don’t use them because of that so I guess I can’t say what would happen height wise.

Hood to hear John! Those are stressful. I guess it’s too late to remind you there’s like 5 different length bolts and it’s good to keep track where they go. How did you get vice grips to work? They always want to slide or “walk” off the edges/slopes and angles for me as soon as pressure is applied.

Both of mine 2014/2017 (same generation as your 2018) have power liftgate, so I can't compare side by side. It looks like it's just an extra rod connecting at the top corner on the drivers side - see picture. Interior and hatch trim pieces are different to allow the power rod to connect on each end. Subaru seems to list a different part number for power lift gate - I would guess for the attachment point and maybe wiring? So my guess is you can easily put a power liftgate into a mechanical vehicle by just installing the mechanical trim onto the powered hatch and installing it. But...that's just a guess.