idosubaru

That was a good call to try another sensor. It’s easy to think “already replaced that, what’s next”.

The cheap knock sensors work often times but expect some rates of issues.

Hard to say. If they’re rebooted with Subaru boots they can last. Only takes one or two Subaru OEM reboots to make 300k. But cheap axles are so common there’s no way to say.

Pull it yourself yards and cut off what you need. You can use any connector with the right number of wires. Doesn’t have to be a quarter century old original if you call yards on car-part, it might help to call rust bucket areas where the doors probably aren’t worth much to begin with. A yard may not want to cut up a rust free door or panel.

Subaru OEM boots last longer. Not sure if they’re still available though. If a warranty for cheap boots is important then look first at local auto parts stores as remote warranty on a cheap part is a wash with shipping costs and down time. Most have “order online - pick up in store” options now.

Montway - you pay the company a smaller fee and then you hand the driver the remaining balance due in cash when he gets there with your car. That would at least remove some of that financial risk. keep in mind the logistics involved are enough that you’re taking a risk no matter what. There’s no way to avoid it except to go get it yourself or pay high dollar specialists or a local tow or hauling company you can walk in and talk to but at $3 per loaded mile that will be $6,000+ a moving company or hiring your own driver would be an option but it would be mad $$$$$. You get what you pay for - if you don’t want to pay that then go with the usual large scale inexpensive transporters like Montway.

I'd guess it has an aftermarket starter from years ago (maybe before you owned it?). If it's a Subaru unit I'd get another used Subaru starter and swap the new contacts/plunger into it. Or take it apart and start tracing power through it to look for a problem area if you're interested in trying to repair it. I've never gotten beyond contacts/brushes for electric motors and starters so I'm not sure what that means but I assume you can apply power as needed, and work your way from the terminals inward, one step at a time looking for continuity and power loss each step of the way. Outer terminal to inside of the terminal - does it have continuity/power? Then move on to the next shortest distance....etc. And ask around for how to test windings.

4EAT is far superior to any other Subaru transmission, including the 5EAT. The 5EAT isn't as robust, there's nothing to gain except a few years newer, and the controls make it nearly impossible anyway.

Run the broken boot axle until the dealer boots arrive. ive put 50k on front and 100k on rear broken boot clicking axles. Of course they were probably all OEM which won’t fail. But I wouldn’t care to run an old noisy axles a couple weeks.

Hmm, unsure. Hard to tell but the left one looks aftermarket, right I'm unsure. I would just get whatever boots you want. OEM last longer than aftermarkets so if I'm going aftermarket I just avoid no name stuff and get a Beck Arnley or something familiar sounding. I've never seen a difference between aftermarket but I don't use the same ones often enough to compare - I haven't had a chance to use 10 Dormans and 10 Beck Arnleys over many years/miles, to really say. There are few who can except shop owners. I dont' think this is normal or average, but I've definitely seen some aftermarkets, including Beck Arnleys, fail in like 3 years give or take a year, OEM never fail that soon. But keep in mind - Beck Arnley isn't always supplying the same boot. I've bought the same part from Beck Arnley before and it's clearly from different manufacturers. So they can change their suppliers or some other kind of arrangement like that. Actually i think I have an EA82 example in my garage of this right now.

Subaru only on tie rods. Subaru tie rods never fail and often last the life of the vehicle. I don't do this, but I'd have zero worries about using a used Subaru tie rod but I would with an aftermarket. A tie rod failure is not something you ever want to happen while driving.

None of that matters. Change and check the oil and filter often and nothing else matters. Synthetic and OEM filters are best, but neither matter if you don't let the oil get low, don't overheat the vehicle, and change the oil on time. 10w30 is fine. Viscosity isn't important. Newer cars have lower friction rings and 0W oil and easily consume oil leading to low oil situations. We also know nothing about their vehicles, history, or statements. People say stuff about cars all that time that isn't the definition of "scientific", is anecdotal, way too many assumptions are made, inaccurate, etc. A wal-mart conversation isn't really worth any time. Oil filter - not a big deal. Some synthetic oils are good for well beyond 10,000 miles and when paired with a good filter. 25,000 mile oil and filter change via Amsoil: https://www.amsoilcontent.com/lit/g1490.pdf There are also people who change their oil filters every other oil change. There are times and conditions in which these practices, and others that need not be mentioned here, have merit and will not illicit any issues. You shouldn't do it, but not every situation is identical to yours.

Nice recon. Is that standard industry practice or unique to Subaru?

All older Subaru axles have big green unmistakable inner cups. Or if you’re in CO, and they’re blue, you’ve got an old MWE axle which is equally worth keeping. if aftermarket they also often don’t match from side to side. unless of course they were both replaced but left being difffemrt from the right is a quick and easy telltale sign

New boots and clamps, new grease. That’s all you need. Remove axle: knock out inner roll pin at trans, remove 32mm axle nut, remove top 17mm strut mount bolt, loosen lower strut mount bolt. pull on strut so hub rotates out. Slide axle off trans. Push inner joint back so you can pull axle out of the hub. pulling the balljoint is easier than stray bolt method, there’s more room, but the ballpoints can be huge nightmares if there’s any rust or corrosion It’s very tight angling the axle out but it does come out. swap boots and reinstall. As John said, the axle slides onto the stub only one way when reinstalling. Look at the grooves in the stub and grooves on the axle and make sure they’re compatible If not, rotate 180 degrees. It’s very simple, you’ll notice when you remove it now that you know to look.

did you look up the FSM diagnostic for that code? It’s worth a glance. TCUs can fail but usually they’re 20+ years old before they’re flaking out.

It's usually either: 1. Battery/dirty terminals - clean them up and make sure the clamp to post connections are SHINEY and TIGHT. 2. contacts - replace them, they're $10-$20 and the underside of the plunger can get pitted and black too. 3. degraded wiring/connections - the common solution is to add a new relay/wiring. links to various threads here: A diagram: Those three things should be carefully addressed first. Less common issues are the ignition switch, starter, or the battery itself is weak sauce.

Might Depend how much sand? If you’re talking 25% or more of your play is in sand - beach, desert, river beds, that may be a significantly different question than just a little sand obstacle here and there.

I think FEQ are the ones I eluded to. Do the shops use them on Subaru’s or mostly other manufacturers? If Raxles is the company im thinking of that’s a good suggestion. Good option to check. I think I’ve heard good things about them. downside is pricey and shipping can land them in no mans land.

No they all suck. Rebooting originals gives 10x better product. Anything else is a waste of time and garbage. Granted, easy train is so enticing you won’t be able to resist until one cuts loose on the interstate and you’re stranded and learn by experience, like many of us have done. So, ignore me, but keep your originals for when the “new” ones fail. “Heavy Duty” on Subaru axles is marketing click bait. It’s nonsense for so many reasons but chiefly old Subaru’s don’t support a market for quality axles. Cheap people will buy cheap and wise owners of reliable daily drivers will reboot Subaru axles. There’s nearly zero market for more expensive quality axles. If there was I’d buy 100 OEM and rebuild them myself and sell them. But it doesn’t exist. Companies know this better than me. The last “heavy duty” axles new to the market I said there’s no possible way they’re any good. Someone on here swore they were worth trying and wanted them to be all that. they were garbage and he had issues with them. Maybe the same trash you’re looking at. HD something or the other. ive seen brand new axles blow up in less than 100 miles multiple times, or click, clack, or vibrate, they’re terrible. I wouldn’t trust one or feel good about it if it did install and had no symptoms at first. The good Subaru specialty shops buy Subaru OEM axles from the dealer or rebuild or buy used OEM ones.

I’ve disconnected and not run the throttle body heater hoses with no issues. That was in MD with plenty of subzero temps. If it’s used in freezing temps it’s not ideal to remove it though and I wouldn’t do it again that far north. And this is assuming the last poster is correct that this tstat hose is for the TB hoses.

If you wanted to hack job around it, cut the PCV off with a cut off wheel and plumb a new one in line behind it with generic hoses and clamps. That would be pretty cool for novelty conversations and the “look at what I did” factor. Lol Or gut it and do the same. but that would be tricky to do without getting steel bits in the engine intake.

Another option is to spray the internals with copious amounts of cleaner and just clean the old one. PCVs aren’t typically cleaned and it’s not ideal but this might be a time to try it. They’re just a ball and spring so it’s not a big deal. I’ve cleaned them before, albeit out of the vehicle. it might be worth it here even if it’s just to get it drivable and heat cycle it a few times before trying any other solutions. Try to tighten it a very small amount - like 2 degrees, barely noticeable amount. Once you get it to move the key is to work it back and forth at very small ranges and let it cool. - like a 1/4 turn, or less, depending how bad it is. Loosen 1/4, tighten 1/4, repeat a few times then go have lunch to let it cool down. Repeat. Increase the amount you’re turning it depending how bad it feels. If it’s really tight go up to 1/2 a turn, if it’s loosening fast then go up to 1 or 2 full turns. Loosen tighten loosen tighten. Again give it cooling breaks, more and longer the tighter it is. The heating will encourage expanding and poorer metallurgic properties for easier shearing and stripping. Keep it from heating up. When removing stuck fasteners they can be way too hot to touch, smoking hot. The alumnin manifold won’t handle that much very well. Id guess (granted I can’t see it), you’re not putting as much torque on it as you think. The PCV threads are huge and not typically rusty like radiator hold done bolts and dan bolts that shear off left and right with torque. I can’t see it but if you’re using a short handle 3/8” socket it’s not that much leverage for the large diameter PCV threads. I don’t want to suggest going Hulk and destroying it but I’ve put some pretty big tools behind older PCV valves that are stuck in there from a quarter century.

Yep. Baffling is the correct word.

brake pads are cheap and might be easier. I think “it’s a hybrid now” was a joke right? Because I laughed...then thought, wait maybe it is some sort of hybrid he converted!